• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.112-120
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• 2010

In this paper time series wave data measured continuously for 24 hours during a storm in Yura Sea Area are used to investigate statistical characteristics of nonlinear waves. The exceedance probability of wave height is compared using the Rayleigh distribution and the Edgeworth-Rayleigh (ER) distribution. Wave data which show stationary state for 10 hours contain 4600 waves approximately. The Gram-Chalier distribution fits the probability of wave elevation better than the Gaussian distribution. The Rayleigh ($H_{rms}$) distribution follows the exceedance probability of wave height in general and predicts the probability of freak waves well. The ER distribution overpredicts the exceedance probability of wave heights and the occurrence of freak waves. If wave data measured for 30 minute period which contains 250 waves are used, the ER distribution can predict the occurrence probability of freak waves well. But it overpredicts the probability of overall wave height If no freak wave occurs, the Rayleigh ($H_{rms}$) distribution agrees well with wave height distribution for the most of wave height ranges. The wave height distribution of freak waves of which height are less than 10 m shows similar tendency compared with freak waves greater than 10 m. The value of $H_{max}/H_{1/3}$ is related to the kurtosis of wave elevation. It seems that there exists threshold value of the kurtosis for the occurrence of freak waves.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.83-95
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• 1990

It can be assumed that the ocean waves consist of many independent pure sinusoidal components which progress in arbitrary directions. To analyze irregular sea waves, both the spectrum method and the individual wave method have been used. The spectral approach is valid in the region where the water depth is deep and the linear property of velocity distribution is predominent, while the individual wave analysis method in the region where the water depth is shallow and the wave nonlinearity is significant. Therefore, to investigate the irregular wave transformation from the deep water to the shallow water region, it is necessary to relate the frequency spectrum which is estimated by the spectrum analysis method to the i oint probability distribution of wave height, period and direction affected by the boundary condition of the individual wave analysis method. It also becomes important to define the region where both methods can be applied. This study is a part of investigation to establish a systematic approach for analyzing the irregular wave transformation. The region where the spectral approach can be applied is discussed by earring out the experiments on the irregular wave transformation in the two-dimensional wave tank together with the numerical simulation. The applicability of the individual wave analysis method for predicting irregular wave transformation including wave shoaling and breaking and the relation between frequency spectrum and joint probability distribution of wave height and period are also investigated through the laboratory experiment and numerical simualtion.

• 한국신재생에너지학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2009.06a
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• pp.615-619
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• 2009

This paper is investigated to variation of wave power generation operation rate, operating capacity and output with the wave conditions represented by wave height-period window. By the use of the long-term wave data from 1979 to 2002 which is provided by Korea Ocean Research & Development Institute(KORDI), we calculated the monthly variation of significant wave height(Hs), zero-up crossing period(Tz) and distribution of wave appearance rate. And using the same wave data, it was charted the Hs-Tz and wave-energy scatter diagrams.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.2
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• pp.88-99
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• 2019

This study presents the results of analysis for the wave data that were consecutively collected from February 2013 to November 2018 at the location of 1.6 km offshore from Namhangjin beach. The water depth at the location is 30.5 m and waves were measured by AWAC (Acoustic Wave And Current meter). By using wave-by-wave analysis and spectral analysis, wave heights and periods were evaluated and then the relationships between the quantities obtained by the two methods were proposed based on linear regression analysis. In addition, monthly and yearly variations of the significant wave height and period, and the peak wave direction were analyzed. Moreover, the relationship between the significant wave height and period was newly suggested. Variability and probability distribution of the significant wave period with respect to the significant wave height were also examined.

• Coupled systems mechanics
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.111-126
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• 2013

The structural design requirements of an offshore platform subjected to wave induced forces and moments in the jacket can play a major role in the design of the offshore structures. For an economic and reliable design; good estimation of wave loadings are essential. A nonlinear response analysis of a fixed offshore platform under structural and wave loading is presented, the structure is discretized using the finite element method, wave plus current kinematics (velocity and acceleration fields) are generated using 5th order Stokes wave theory, the wave force acting on the member is calculated using Morison's equation. Hydrodynamic loading on horizontal and vertical tubular members and the dynamic response of fixed offshore structure together with the distribution of displacement, axial force and bending moment along the leg are investigated for regular and extreme conditions, where the structure should keep production capability in conditions of the 1-yr return period wave and must be able to survive the 100-yr return period storm conditions. The result of the study shows that the nonlinear response investigation is quite crucial for safe design and operation of offshore platform.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.128-134
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• 1998

This study is carried out the theoretical studies on wave transmission and motions in waves of twin hull type floating breakwaters with the vertical and horizontal plate. The method of calculation is based on the three dimensional singularity distribution method. The results show that wave transmission is affected by heave motion. Twin hull type is designed by the use of the theoretical method and good performance of the developed floating breakwater is confirmed for longer wave period.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.21 no.1 s.74
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• pp.7-17
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• 2007

Based on the Boussinesq wave model, the wave distribution in the Chagui-Do sea area in Jeju was simulated by applying the directional irregular waves at an incident boundary. The time and spatial variations of monthly mean wave height and period were investigated, which aims to provide basic information on optimal sites for wave power generation. The grid size and time interval of the Boussinesq wave model were validated by examining wave distributions around a surface piercing wall, fixed at sea bottom with a constant slope. Except for the summer season, the significant wave height is dominated by wind waves and appears to be relatively high at the north sea of Chagui-Do, which is open to the ocean, while it is remarkably reduced at the rear sea of Chagui-Do because of its blocking effect on incident waves. In the summer, the significant wave height is higher at the south sea, and it is dominated by the swell waves, which is contributed by the strong south-west wind. The magnitude of significant wave height is the largest in the winter and the lowest in the spring. Annual average of the significant wave height is distinctively high at the west sea close to the Chagui-Do coast, due to a steep variation of water depth and corresponding wave focusing effect. The seasonal and spatial distribution of the wave period around Chagui-Do sea reveals very similar characteristics to the significant wave height. It is suggested that the west sea close to the Chagui-Do coast is the mast promising site for wave power generation.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.733-742
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• 2020

Taking the cylindrical float of the floating fence of a floating litter collection device as the research object, based on the shallow immersion characteristics of the cylindrical float, the Morison equation is modified, and the interaction between regular waves and the partially immersed horizontal cylindrical float is discussed in combination with scale model test. The results show that the modified Morison equation can accurately predict the wave force of the horizontal cylindrical float and reveal the influence of amplitude, immersion depth and period on the wave force of the cylindrical float. For partially immersed cylindrical floats, the wave force increases with the increase in wave height and decays with the increase in period. The positive value distribution of the wave force is larger than that of the negative direction, and the difference between the positive and negative directions is mainly affected by the immersion depth.

• Journal of Korean Port Research
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.399-408
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• 1999

Copeland’s(1985) hyperbolic mild-slope equation including diffraction refraction and reflection in the wave field is used as a governing equation in this study. The result of Maruyama & Kajima(1985) is used to calculate wave direction and that of Watanabe & Maruyama(1986) is used as a energy dissipation formula. Numerical solutions are obtained by the Leap-Frog scheme and compared with Watanabe & Maruyama’s (1984) hydraulic experimental results and numerical simulation results for the detached breakwater. This wave model is applied to a detached breakwater and compared with Watanabe and Maruyama’s (1984) hydraulic model results to check the characteristics of reflected wave field around a detached breakwater. The distribution of wave height and we phase in front of a detached breakwater is more accurate than the Watanabe and Maruyama’s numerical results. The results from our wave model show good agreements with the others and also show nonlinear effects around the detached breakwater. This model is applied to the Gamcheon harbor of pusan. the field observations were carried out at Pusan harbor wave station in 1986-1995 and the results were accepted as a design wave condition in this study. The wave height and wave period was measured by Dong-A university at one station in the Gamcheon harbor in 1996-1997 and used as a calibration criterion. The measured data were used as input data for the numerical simulation and also compared with simulated results. The numerical simulation shows a fairly good results which considering the effect of topographic characteristics and effect of narrow entrance due to two separated breakwaters in Gamcheon harbor. The wave distribution characteristics inside Gamcheon harbor is quite different with the offshore wave direction and wave period.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.17 no.5 s.54
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• pp.25-31
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• 2003

Numerical experiments have been conducted using the nonlinear combined refraction-diffraction model, in order to analyze the generation characteristics of stem wave, which is formed by the interaction between vertical structure and the oblique incident waves. The results of stem wave are discussed through the stem wave height distribution along/normal vertical structure, under the wide range of incident wave conditions-wave heights, periods, depths, and angles. Under the same wave height and period, the larger the incident wave angle, the higher the stem wave heights. According to the results of wave height distribution, in front of vertical structure, the maximum of stern wave heights occurs in the location bordering the vertical wall. Furthermore, the most significant result is that stem waves occur under the incident angles between $0^{\circ}\;and\;30^{\circ}$, and the stem wave height ratio has the maximum value, which is approximately 1.85 times the incident wave height when the incident wave angle becomes $23^{\circ}$.