• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.599-607
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to reproduce long-term wave fields in coastal waters of Korea based on wave hind-casting modelling and discuss its applications. To validate wind data(NCEP, ECMWF, JMA-MSM), comparison of wind data was done with wave buoy data. JMA-MSM predicted wind data with high accuracy. But due to relatively longer period of ECMWF wind data as compared to that of JMA-MSM, wind data set of ECMWF(2001~2014) was used to perform wave hind-casting modelling. Results from numerical modelling were verified with the observed data of wave buoys installed by Korea Meteorological Administration(KMA) and Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Agency(KHOA) on offshore waters. The results agree well with observations at buoy stations, especially during the event periods such as a typhoon. Consequently, the wave data reproduced by wave hind-casting modelling was used to obtain missing data in wave observation buoys. The obtained missing data indicated underestimation of maximum wave height during the event period at some points of buoys. Reasons for such underestimation may be due to larger time interval and resolution of the input wind data, water depth and grid size etc. The methodology used in present study can be used to analyze coastal erosion data in conjunction with a wave characteristic of the event period in coastal areas. Additionally, the method can be used in the coastal disaster vulnerability assessment to generate wave points of interest.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.67-75
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• 1986

This paper introduces the nonlinear Stream Function Wave Theory for design waves efficiently to compute the wave energy and energy transport quantities and to analyze the effects of nonlinearities on them. The Stream Function Wave Theory was developed by Dean for case of the observed waves with assymmetric wave profiles and of the design waves with symmetric theoretical wave profiles. Dalrymple later improved the computational procedure by adding two Lagrangian constraints so that more efficient convergence of the iterative numerical method to a specified wave height and to a zero mean free surface displacement resulted. And the Stream Function coefficients are computed numerically by the improved Marquardt algorithm developed for this study. As the result of this study the effects of nonlinearities on the wave quantities of the average potential energy density, the average kinetic energy density result in overestimation by linear wave theory compared to the Stream Function Wave Theory and increase monotonically with decreasing $L^*/L_O$ and with increasing $H/H_B$. The effects of nonlinearities on the group velocity and the wavelength quantities result in underestimation by linear wave theory and increase monotonically with increasing $H/H_B$. Finally the effect of nonlinearity on the average total energy flux results in overestimation for shallow water waves and underestimation for deep water waves by linear wave theory.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.5
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• pp.296-306
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• 2020

It has been reported that the wave heights measured by Wave and Tide gauges (WTG) have been underestimated, and thus it is important to improve its measuring accuracy for enhancing estimation of harbor tranquility. In this study, the significant wave heights from WTG were calibrated using measured data from AWAC and Waverider buoys moored at the same four locations with the WTG. It was observed that the product of significant wave height and peak wave period, HT, was not underestimated but linearly proportional between the measurements by two instruments. This linearity was applied to develop 3^rd order polynomial functions that best represented the relationship between HT and significant wave heights measured by WTG. These functions were then applied to calibrate the WTG significant wave heights that were lower than 0.7 m, the critical value established for the low waves in this study. The results showed that the linearity between the AWAC (or Waverider buoy) and calibrated wave heights were improved, and the magnitude of underestimated WTG wave heights were increased to be more realistic. The results of this study are expected to be effectively applied for other data sets obtained by WTG only, to increase the observation accuracy of WTG and to improve the estimation of harbor tranquility.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.478-484
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• 2019

The submarine cable for Yongsu wave power plant was cut in 2014 winter. This study investigated the probability of high-wave occurrence exceeding the 50-year return period and the underestimation of armor unit weight used to protect the cable. The observation data from KMA buoy and the hindcast wave data were reviewed to determine the return period of wave height during the winter. In order to investigate the armor unit weight of cable-protection, we calculated the required weight of armor unit using not only Design Standard for Harbor and Fishery Port, but also the previous researches for the wave with large incident angle. As a result, it appeared that the high wave exceeding the 50-year return period did not occur during the winter of 2014 and the armor unit weight of the cable protection was not sufficient to sustain the obliquely incident wave, which induced the cable protection failure.

• Wind and Structures
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.249-270
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• 2014

Through comparing the mean wind profiles observed overland during the passages of four typhoons, and the gradient wind speeds calculated based on the sea level pressure data provided by a numerical model, the present paper discusses, (a) whether the gradient balance is a valid assumption to estimate the wind speed in the height range of 1250 m ~ 1750 m, which is defined as the upper-level mean wind speed, in a tropical cyclone over land, and (b) if the super-gradient feature is systematically observed below the height of 1500 m in the tropical cyclone wind field over land. It has been found that, (i) the gradient balance is a valid assumption to estimate the mean upper-level wind speed in tropical cyclones in the radial range from the radius to the maximum wind (RMW) to three times the RMW, (ii) the super-gradient flow dominates the wind field in the tropical cyclone boundary layer inside the RMW and is frequently observed in the radial range from the RMW to twice the RMW, (iii) the gradient wind speed calculated based on the post-landfall sea level pressure data underestimates the overall wind strength at an island site inside the RMW, and (iv) the unsynchronized decay of the pressure and wind fields in the tropical cyclone might be the reason for the underestimation.

• Journal of the Korean earth science society
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• v.44 no.2
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• pp.135-147
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• 2023

Satellite-observed significant wave heights (SWHs), which are widely used to understand the response of the ocean to climate change, require long-term and continuous validation. This study examines the accuracy and error characteristics of SWH observed by nine satellite altimeters in the North Pacific and North Atlantic Ocean for 25 years (1992-2016). A total of 137,929 matchups were generated to compare altimeter-observed SWH and in-situ measurements. The altimeter SWH showed a bias of 0.03 m and a root mean square error (RMSE) of 0.27 m, indicating relatively high accuracy in the North Pacific and North Atlantic Ocean. However, the spatial distribution of altimeter SWH errors showed notable differences. To better understand the error characteristics of altimeter-observed SWH, errors were analyzed with respect to in-situ SWH, time, latitude, and distance from the coast. Overestimation of SWH was observed in most satellite altimeters when in-situ SWH was low, while underestimation was observed when in-situ SWH was high. The errors of altimeter-observed SWH varied seasonally, with an increase during winter and a decrease during summer, and the variability of errors increased at higher latitudes. The RMSEs showed high accuracy of less than 0.3 m in the open ocean more than 100 km from the coast, while errors significantly increased to more than 0.5 m in coastal regions less than 15 km. These findings underscore the need for caution when analyzing the spatio-temporal variability of SWH in the global and regional oceans using satellite altimeter data.