• Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.46 no.5
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• pp.488-497
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• 2009

The freak wave, also known as New-Year-Wave in the north Atlantic, is relatively large and spontaneous ocean surface wave that can sink even large ships and destroy maritime structures. To understand oceanic conditions that develop freak waves, we simulated and generated two versions of scale-downed waves (1:64 and 1:42) in a numerical wave tank and compared the results with the experiment in wave flume. Both of the breaking and non-breaking waves were generated in the simulation. The numerical simulation was implemented based on the finite volume method and a genetic optimization algorithm. Random values were assigned as the initial values for the parameter in the control function, which produced signals representing the motion of wave-maker. The same signal obtained from the optimization process was used for both of the simulation and the experiment. By varying the object function and restrictions of the simulation, a best profile of design wave was selected based on the characteristics, height and period of simulated waves. Results showed that the simulation and experiment with the scale of 1:42 agreed better with freak waves in the natural condition. The presented simulation method will contribute to saving the time and cost for conducting subsequent response analyses of motion under freak waves in the course of the model test for ship and maritime structure.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.35 no.4
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• pp.845-852
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• 2015

The runup height is an important design parameter to determine the crest elevation of coastal structures and seawalls. In this study, two dimensional wave runup tests for rubble-mound structure covered by tetrapods were conducted. Incident waves at the toe include nonbreaking, breaking and broken random wave conditions. A empirical formula to predict runup elevation of rubble-mound structure with 1:1.5 front slope was proposed on the basis of physical model test results using a surf similarity parameter. The test results from this study were compared with those from van der Meer and Stam(1992).

• Journal of Industrial Technology
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• v.14
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• pp.101-107
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• 1994

This study is to investigate harbor oscillation phenomenon according to combination of the wall structures by model experiment in a three dimensional wave basin. Six different types of wall combination were chosen through combination of erect wall, erect dissipation block, and sand beach, wave height at selected points in the harbor were measured by electronic wave gage. Test results show that the wall structure composed solely of erect walls showed generally highest harbor oscillation. Since natural beach shows lower reflection than erect dissipation block do, we thought it would be more efficient to use natural beach for improved harbor oscillation. The result showed, however, that the erect dissipation block are more efficient than natural beach to attain less harbor oscillation. The reason seens that the erect dissipation blocks have better capability to control breaking wave on the surface of the structure.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.180-201
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• 2020

It has been widely known that the effect of diffracted waves at the tip of composite breakwater with finite length causes the change of standing wave height along the length of breakwater, the spatial change of wave pressure on caisson, and the occurrence of meandering damage on the different sliding distance in sequence. It is hard to deal with the spatial change of wave force on trunk of breakwater through the two-dimensional experiment and/or numerical analysis. In this study, two and three-dimensional numerical techniques with olaFlow model are used to approach the spatial change of wave force including the impulsive breaking wave pressure applied to trunk of breakwater, the effect of rear region, and the occurrence of diffracted waves at the tip of caisson located on the high crested rubble mound. In addition, it is thoroughly studied the mean wave height, mean horizontal velocity, and mean turbulent kinetic energy through the numerical analysis. In conclusion, it is confirmed that the larger wave pressure occurs at the front wall of caisson around the still water level than the original design conditions when it generates the shock-crushing wave pressure checked by not two-dimensional analysis, but three-dimensional analysis through the change of wave pressure applied to the caisson along the length of breakwater.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.531-552
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• 2020

In the previous study, both the wave characteristics at the tip of composite breakwater and on caisson were investigated by applying olaFlow numerical model of three-dimensional regular waves. In this paper, the same numerical model and layout/shape of composite breakwater as applied the previous study under the action of one directional irregular waves were used to analyze two and three-dimensional spatial change of wave force including the impulsive breaking wave pressure applied to trunk of breakwater, the effect of rear region, and the occurrence of diffracted waves at the tip of caisson located on the high crested rubble mound. In addition, the frequency spectrum, mean significant wave height, mean horizontal velocity, and mean turbulent kinetic energy through the numerical analysis were studied. In conclusion, the larger wave pressure occurs at the front wall of caisson around the still water level than the original design conditions when it generates the shock-crushing wave pressure in three-dimensional analysis condition. Which was not occurred by two-dimensional analysis. Furthermore, it was confirmed that the wave pressure distribution at the caisson changes along the length of breakwater when the same significant incident wave was applied to the caisson. Although there is difference in magnitude, but its variation shows the similar tendency with the case of previous study.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.83-95
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• 1990

It can be assumed that the ocean waves consist of many independent pure sinusoidal components which progress in arbitrary directions. To analyze irregular sea waves, both the spectrum method and the individual wave method have been used. The spectral approach is valid in the region where the water depth is deep and the linear property of velocity distribution is predominent, while the individual wave analysis method in the region where the water depth is shallow and the wave nonlinearity is significant. Therefore, to investigate the irregular wave transformation from the deep water to the shallow water region, it is necessary to relate the frequency spectrum which is estimated by the spectrum analysis method to the i oint probability distribution of wave height, period and direction affected by the boundary condition of the individual wave analysis method. It also becomes important to define the region where both methods can be applied. This study is a part of investigation to establish a systematic approach for analyzing the irregular wave transformation. The region where the spectral approach can be applied is discussed by earring out the experiments on the irregular wave transformation in the two-dimensional wave tank together with the numerical simulation. The applicability of the individual wave analysis method for predicting irregular wave transformation including wave shoaling and breaking and the relation between frequency spectrum and joint probability distribution of wave height and period are also investigated through the laboratory experiment and numerical simualtion.

• Journal of Korean Port Research
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.69-91
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• 1992

A new type of horizontal submerged break water or fixed structure to control waves near coastal area is introduced to focus wave energy before or behind it. Intentionally, the water depth near the structure is changed gradually to get a refraction and diffraction effect. The concentration of wave energy due to the structure was analyzed for the selected design of structure. The shape of the submerged structure in consideration is a circular combined with elliptical curve not to cause reflection of waves at the extreme edge of the structure but cause wave scattering. The direction of the structure against the incident wave is changed easily in the model Applying a regular wave train the following were examined. 1) whether a crescent plain submerged structure designed by the wave refraction theory can concentrate wave energy at a focal zone behind and before it without wave breaking phenomenon. 2) Location of maximum wave amplification factor in terms of the incident wave direction, wave period, etc. In any event the study would contribute to control waves near coastal area and to protect a beach from erosion without interruption of ocean view it is an useful study for the concentration of wave energy efficiently with the increase of wave height.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• v.1
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• pp.205-210
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• 2006

The impact forces of the highly nonlinear waves are one of the important factors in designing the ocean structures. The impact forces are very difficult to analyze numerically and experimentally because they are impulsive in magnitude and occur instantaneously. In this study the numerical program based on N.S. equations are used to investigate the impact forces of steep waves where the waves are gene rated by the wave maker in the numerical wave basin. The arbitrary steep waves are generated by the superposition of waves of single frequency and the impact forces on vertical cylinder are simulated on the multiblock grids. V.O.F. and the local height function methods are used to track the free surfaces. To validate the numerical analysis the numerical results are compared with the experimental ones and the acceptable agreements are found. It is thought that more studies on the simulations of the incoming breaking waves and the impact forces on the vertical cylinder should be made to obtain the useful results to be applied in the offshore design.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.28-36
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• 2009

Many researches have been done to define the physical parameters for the wave generation and transformation over a coastal region. However, most of these have been limited to the application of particular conditions, as they are generally too empirical. To yield more reasonable wave estimation using a spectral wave model, it is important to understand how they work for the wave estimation. This study involved a comprehensive sensitivity test against the spectral resolution and the physical source/sink terms of the spectral wave model using SWAN and TOMAWAC, which have the same physical background with several different empirical/theoretical formulations. The tests were conducted for the East Anglian coast, UK, which is characterized by a complex bathymetry due to several shoals and offshore sandbanks. For the quantitative and qualitative evaluation of the models' performance with different input conditions, the wave elements and spectrums predicted at representative sites the East Anglia coast were compared/analyzed. The spectral resolution had no significant effect on the model results, but the lowest resolution on the frequency and direction induced underestimations of the wave height and period. The bottom friction and depth-induced breaking terms produced relatively high variations in the wave prediction, depending on which formulation was applied. The terms for the quadruplet and whitecapping had little effect on the wave estimation, whereas the triads tended to predict shorter and higher waves by energy transferring to higher frequencies.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.331-337
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• 2014

We analyzed the 3-D characteristics of the dynamic response of seabed around a submerged breakwater due to wave loading using a 3-D numerical scheme (LES-WASS-3D). Using our model, which considers the wave-structure-sandy seabed interactions in a 3-D wave field, we were able to investigate the 3-D characteristics of the pore-water pressure in the seabed around the submerged breakwater under various incident wave conditions. To verify the 3-D numerical analysis method suggested in this study, we compared the numerical results with the existing experimental results and found good agreement between them. The numerical analysis reveals that high pore-water pressure in the seabed is generated below a large wave height at the front slope of the submerged breakwater. It was also shown that the non-dimensional pore-water pressure in the seabed increases as the wave period increases because the wave energy dissipation decreases on the submerged breakwater and seabed as the wave period increases.