• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제4권2호
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• pp.137-144
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• 2002

This study was to provide the fundamental data for a scientific and rational clothing construction by investigating the variation of the upper body surface with the use of the method of Surgical tape. The subject were 3 middle elementary schoolboys classified standard somatotype, and arm-movements were consisted of 6 types. The statistical analyses used in this study were mean, standard deviation and the ANOVA and LSD procedure. Shoulder point was moved to be the inside or upside and the shape of the armhole-line was differently changed as the arm-movement become larger. By moving to upside of the anterior armpit point, posterior armpit point and armpit point, the increase of the side seam length and the ascent of the line of width between armpits were distinct. And by arm-movements, in the items of horizontal, front neck base girth, back upper bust girth, back bust girth and back waist girth were increased and the other standard lines were apt to be decreased. In the items of vertical, all standard lines of front side and side seam length showed increased, back waist length and back length showed decreased. The variation of armhole was indefinite. In the rate of the variation, the shoulder length showed the maximum rate of contraction by 41.3%, decreasing 3.7 cm in $180^{\circ}$ degrees, and the side seam length showed the maximum rate of expansion by 60.6%, increasing 8.97 cm in the same degrees.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제9권4호
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• pp.471-482
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to produce slacks pattern for pregnant women in the mid or second half period of their pregnancy according to the development figure of the body shell from a follow-up measurement. We here would like to produce slacks pattern for pregnant women constructed to fit better with their individual property in their figure and to help maintain the shape and beauty of the lower half of body and would compare it with two manufactured slacks pattern. The results of the study were as follows; 1. As the pregnancy proceeds, the height of natural-waist line went up spontaneously due to the projection of abdominal region, therefore, it was given darts at the front zipper part so that they could maintain a nice figure and to avoid possibility of feeling oppressed. To acquire a slimmer outfit, we made of the slacks-bottom narrower than the width at the knee line, and it worked out. 2. Sensory evaluation for appearance: According to the statistical of the result of 19items on the questionaire, all items showed significant difference(a$\leq$0.01) between the new and A(bunka) B(Kim's pattern) method slacks pattern, with the new pattern having higher scores. The new drafting method proved to be better fitted, to fit the shape of bodies properly and to get a visual effect to look slim.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.648-662
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• 1993

The summarized findings resulted from experiments and investigation are suggested as follows ; The analysis of measurements on the lower limb movements : For this experimentation, data was collected from three hundred and eighty female, age 19 to 23, who answered five lower limb movements(M1~M5). The statistics show that the order of the expansion ratio is gluteal area-length/knee-girth/back-line/knee-depth/thigh-depth/hip-girth, from the highest to the lowest in all movements. When comparing the correlation coefficient of the measurements, the values of the correlation coefficient of the height and the length items are very low, but those of the girth, the breadth, and the depth items are relatively high and those of the waist and the hip items are highest. For more sophisticated analysis, the factor analysis was conducted on the lower limb movements. Four factors were classified on the factor load by the "varimax rotation" method. Each movement shows the most important factor differently, as follows ; the most important factor in M1 is "the shape factor of lower limb below hip-line", that in M2 is "the cross-sectional shape factor", that in M3 is "the size factor of abdominal and loins region", and those in M4 and M5 accord with the interpretation of M3. When the investigation of the estimated function was conducted, in the selectional case of representative items on the slacks construction, it found that it would be better to add abdomen and thigh items as important considerations to waist girth, hip girth and crotch length.

• 복식
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• 제51권7호
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• pp.147-165
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• 2001

The objective of this study was to develop the Jeogori Pattern for 9 to 10 year-old boys To determine the measurement items for the Jeogori Pattern making, applied factor analysis, correlation analysis and regression analysis to the 37 measurement items of the 9 to 10 year-old boys classified as a standard somatotype. To understand the shape and variation of the body surface, analyzed the replica of the upper body surface that was obtained by the method of using surgical tape. Be based on the results of the above studies, designed the Jeogori Pattern. The designed pattern was evaluated by the sensory test. The drafting methods of Jeogori Pattern obtained are as follows. $\circled1$ The measurement items are Bust Girth, Center Back Waist Length, Neck Width, and Hwajang Length. $\circled2$ Jeogori Length Center Back Waist Length$\times$4/3 $\circled3$ Front Body Girth(1/2) : B/2 + 1.5cm Back Body Girth(1/2) : B/2 + 3.5cm $\circled4$ Jin-Dong : B/4 + 3cm $\circled5$ Back Godae Width(1/2) : Neck Width/2 + 1.7cm Front Godae Width(l/2) : Back Godae Width(1/2) - 2cm $\circled6$Back Godae Point is 1.5cm higher than shoulder line, and Front Godae Point is 1.5cm lower than shoulder line. $\circled7$ Back Godae Depth: 1.2cm + 1.5cm = 2.7cm The Jeogori Pattern designed by the above method Is as (fig. 8) The results of the sensory test of the new pattern are as fellows. Except for 2 items, every mark of 24 test items has over 5.0 point and a total average mark is 5.25 point. Witch is a good mark. Therefore the new pattern is valid. Especially, the parts of Git, sleeves and back face have a high mark, so the appearances of those parts are excellent.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권4호
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• pp.467-476
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to develop a plausible methodology based on experimental data how to set up darts and split lines on 3D parametric body dressed with tight-fit garment. The results were as following: Through the process of making convex hull, the concave parts were straightened to make a convex hull, especially in the center part of bust, under breast part and scapular part. To figure out the optimum positions of darts and split lines, the inflection points of curve ratio were searched along the horizontal polylines of waist and bust. This procedures produced reliable results with low deviation. Using Rapidform, CATIA and Unigraphics, six patches of bodice patterns were drawn and aligned. Paired t-test results showed the outline and area between 3D surface and 2D were not significantly different, meaning this method could be adaptable when flattening 3D surfaces. The amount of waist dart measured on the pattern showed that the highest portion was allocated on 2nd dart(back), followed by 1st dart(back), 1st dart(front), 2nd dart(front)/side dart, and center back dart. A series of findings suggested that curve ration inflection point could be used as a guide to set up darts and split line on 3D parametric model with low deviation.

• 복식
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• 제56권7호
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• pp.68-84
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• 2006

The aim of this study is to examine a structure of trousers worn by males in the western world during the 17th and 18th centuries in order to understand the characteristics of evolution in construction. it mainly examined engravings from these era because they provided me fine and detailed portrayals of what it needed to observe. Then, it classified them into models according to each era. it supplemented a flaw of depending on single type of studying material by examining other types of historical materials such as historical paintings and documents for comparative analysis of materials and decorations and previous studies on preserved historical documents to observe the examples of structures of trousers. Secondly, it studied both historical documents and previous studies on the trousers patterns used back in those days, analyzed the characteristics of each designing method by actually draping these patterns, and observed the differences in these completed patterns to understand the characteristics of changes in fashion design skill. As for the changes in length, these patterns show only a slight difference around above and below the knee line. However, the widths of waist, hip, girth and hem were significantly altered over the years to reduce wrinkles and the cutting lines became more refined to make the clothes fit to the body. As a result, a simple but fine patterning technique was born. In particular, new methods in cutting and sewing were invented for detailed parts such as waist, pocket, front and slit.

• 한국운동역학회지
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.41-55
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• 2004

This study analyzed snatch technique in weight-lifting performed by female gold, silver, and copper medalists at the 75kg level in the 2002 Pusan Asian Games and obtained the following conclusions. 1. KSH used more extensor in the waist than those in ankles, knees, or hip joints during the second pull, So further training is required to manifest both each of joints and waist extensor effectively and thus for the line from shoulders through barbell to hip joints to form a smooth vertical pattern. 2. Contrary to those in other countries, Korean athlete KSH tended to be swift in starting but slow in the second pull section, showing less effectiveness in movement during the second pull; therefore, they must try to exert a swift movement in lockout. 3. KSH showed slowdown in the speed, which was a factor interfering with performance during second pull, despite the great maximum speed of moving barbell. It is important to use barbell sufficiently not to reduce the speed of vertical movement but rather to keep the speed increasing. 4. KSH, who kept doing inefficient movements such as failure to perform swift lockout after lifting the heel at the maximum angle of lower limbs, needs to reduce this meaningless extension of ankles, knees, or hip joints to exert energy effectively.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제6권3호
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• pp.9-18
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• 2004

This study focuses on the medieval Mongol costume called YosunOja. This dress consists of a blouse and a skirt, and some lines on the waist part. The purpose of the study is to analyse the structural characteristics of this costume, especially on the medieval remains from the tomb Mingshui in the district of Neimenggu. It can be analysed that this costume has three structural characteristics, which are the functional structure, sumptuous one, and the idea of Buddhism. The functional structure consists of the style with a blouse and a skirt, which gives enough surplus for the movement, the back-slash for the ease of the riding, and the dart in the front line which eliminates unnecessary surplus. The sumptuous structure is the many lines of the waist which show the maximization of the decoration, the extraordinary long sleeves, and the use of the expensive gold brocade which shows the wealth of the dresser. And also, the cutting of the fabric into the numerous segment may mean the medieval Mongols believed in Buddhism.

• 복식
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• 제52권2호
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• pp.59-70
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• 2002

For the purpose of providing basic data for the development of size specifications for middle-aged women in Busan, one dimensional measurements were made with the subjects. ranging 45 to 59 in age. The following are the conclusions : 1) According to ages, the middle and elder groups of the middle-aged women shared similar body types, having shorter height, more lowered bust. and increased upper-body depth and girth factors, compared with the earlier middle-aged women group. But the thigh girth of the elder middle-aged group (age: 55∼59) was the lowest, maybe owing to the aged lower-body muscles. 2) In the comparison with national averages. armhole girth, elbow girth, wrist girth. back waist length, side neck point-B.P.-waist line, and sleeve length showed great differences. This is problematic in that the national size standards fail to reflect each legion\`s peculiar body type characteristics. 3) Even though body types were classified according to drop value criteria suggested by KS specifications, 23.05% did not belong to the criteria. They were thus classified as A, N, and H body types, following the distribution of the present experiment. 4) In consideration of the economy factor of the production and sales of the clothes industry, the combinations of height and chest garth for the middle-aged Busan women were as follows: 155cm-85cm (Body Type A) 150cm-88cm (Body Type N), and 155cm-94cm (Body Type H).

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.71-84
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• 2009

For fit satisfaction evaluation, the subjects were asked to put on the jackets from the seven manufacturers in random order, view how the jackets fit in a full-body mirror and answer questions regarding fitting in 22 specific areas, including the neck, shoulders, waist, hips and arms, as well as eight questions related to maneuverability. The surveys and evaluations were conducted between October 2007 and November 2008, and the compiled data were analyzed using the SPSS 14.0 statistics program. The One-way analysis of variance was performed to comparatively analyze the differences among the products from the seven manufacturers. Post-hoc tests were performed based on Duncan's test for the criteria that displayed significant differences. The results were summarized as follows. Fit evaluations were performed for the size 88 formal jackets from the seven manufacturers. All items, except the center front line, displayed significant differences at p<0.05 or higher among the manufacturers. The age group 20-39 felt that the main problems were in the shoulder, armscye, upper arm, waist, abdomen and hip areas. Modifying the shoulder area, armscye depth and hip areas severely compromises the jacket's balance, and attention to these areas must be given developed pattern design.