• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.1193-1202
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• 1996

This study investigates and analyzes the amount and shape of the front waist dart of the bodice and investigates the dart division method by bust size. Measurements at 5 arm positions were taken from 15 subjects. Clothing tests were given to 6 of the subjects. The conclusions were as follows: 1) Front Body surface changes were occurred around armpit and they were caused by the wrinkles of the armpit 2) The curved dart line was more appropriate for use with C cup, the large bust body, than the linear line. The changes of the dart amount at arm movements had different types by bust size. 3) Patterns for A & C cup body were adequate to divide the dart amount by 3 darts such as under the B.P., under the anterior armpit and side line, or to aggregate to 1 dart under the B.P. For the B cup body, however, the suitable pattern to use was the total dart amount divided by 1~2 darts and decreasing the waist line at the side line should be avoided.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.43 no.5 s.207
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• pp.117-130
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• 2005

Western clothing is adjusted to the figures of the human body unlike Korean traditional clothes. For this adjustment, we need a method, known as dart, to reasonably adjust a wide circumference to curves of the human body. So far, there has been some research in the aspect of clothing engineering on how to decide darts of skirts or trousers, but no theoretical research has yet been conducted on how to decide the number and amount of dart, which has caused difficulties in beginners' understanding of dart. Futhermore, there is no consistent drawing method for the number and amount of darts in existing teaching and teaming materials. Therefore, to develop teaching and teaming methods for darts, this study identified the amount and number of darts for waist girth of 66-72cm and a hip girth of 86-102cm. When the difference between the waist girth and the hips girth, including margins, is above a minimum of 26cm, two darts can be designed, but when the difference is below 24cm, one dart is necessary. The amount of darts increases by 0.5cm for every 2cm increase of the hip girth to the waist girth. In addition, as darts become longer, the cutting of the waist line becomes smoother. For one, rather than two, darts the curve of the waist line is steeper. Based on the above results, it was assured that when belts are curved through adjustment to the waist line of skirts or slacks, their composition can be stable. Therefore, in basic teaching about slacks and skirts, the number and amount of the darts should be designed according to the difference between the girths of the waist and the hip. This difference should be a minimum of 24cm, but if it is below 24cm, the number of darts needed is one.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.769-779
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is proposing a knitting method that is suitable for the bodies of women in their 20's and can enhance aesthetic aspect and wearing satisfaction. For this study, four kinds of seamless knit one-pieces were implemented by different knitting method of waist dart each other. The inspection of the exterior and the sensory test of movement adaptability were included in this study. The results of this study were listed below. Exterior evaluation of the four samples results that the sample with outside narrowing and widening get low grade. Thus, we can see that the method having only outside narrowing and widening for waist shaping can cause problems. In addition to that, the sample with inside narrowing and widening get highest grade for almost all test items. The dressing evaluation results that the knitting method of waist dart affect only on the exterior but not on the movement adaptability of the seamless knit one-piece.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.6
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• pp.140-158
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• 1999

The purposes of this study are to examine the characters of the lower body shape in the middle aged women and to make slacks pattern on the base of four difference body shapes. The lower body shapes were classified into 4 types on the basis of their lateral view silhouettes. The slacks patterns were based on the lower body shape characters and resulted in followings. In “Type 1” of the right body shape with the standard protrusion of abdomen and hips, little difference from conventional patterns was seen in experiment pattern, in which the front waist girth was W/4+0.5㎝+0.5㎝+fold(2.5㎝) and the back waist girth W/4+0.5㎝-0.5㎝+dart(3.5㎝). The front hip girth was defined as H/4+2.0㎝+0.5㎝ and the back hip girth as H/4+2.0㎝-0.5㎝ due to its increased ease amount produced by abdominal fat deposition. In the experimental pattern of “Type 2” with prominent hips, the front and back differences of the waist girth and the hip girth and the hip girth were defined as 1.0㎝ and 2.0㎝ separately. Accordingly, the front waist girth was W/4+0.5㎝+1.0㎝+fold(2.0㎝), the back waist girth W/4+0.5㎝-0.1㎝+dart(6.5㎝), the front hip girth H/4+2.0㎝+1.0㎝ and the back hip girth H/4+2.0㎝-1.0㎝. In “Type 3” with the prominent abdomen and the flat hips, the front waist girth was set up as W/4+0.5㎝+0.5㎝+fold(4.5㎝) for the increased front fold amount and the back waist girth was W/4+0.5㎝+0.5㎝+dart(3.0㎝). The front hip girth was made as H/4+2.5㎝+0.5㎝ and the back hip girth H/4+2.5㎝-0.5㎝. In “Type 4” with prominent abdomen and hips, considered were ① the increased front fold amount due to the abdominal protrusion, ② the increased back dart amount and the decreased back dart length owing to the hips prominent and ③ the front and back differences of waist and hip girth for the lateral view silhouette. Therefore the front waist girth was defined as W/4+0.5㎝+2.0㎝+fold(5.0㎝), the back waist girth as W/4+0.5㎝-2.0㎝+dart(4.0㎝), the front hip girth as H/4+2.0㎝+1.0㎝ and the back hip girth as H/4+2.0㎝-1.0㎝. The sensory evaluation of appearance and comfort was appeared more suitable on the experiment pattern than on the conventional pattern.

• Proceedings of the ESK Conference
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• 1997.10a
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• pp.40-55
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• 1997

The purpose of this study are to examine the characters of the lower half body shape in the middle aged women and to make slacks patttern on the base of four difference body shapes as follows. The lower half body shapes were classified into 4 types on the basis of their lateral view silhouette, whose characters were summarized as followings. (1) "Type 1" meant the right body shape with the standard protrusion of abdomen and hips. (2) "Type 2" showed the body shape with prominent hips, which had the flat abdominal silhouette and the greatly curved hips silhouette. (3) "Type 3" was the body shape with the prominent abdomen and the flat hips, in which the frontal view silhouette of the abdomen was greatly curved and the rear view silhouette of hips is less curved. (4) "Type 4" was characterized with prominent abdomen and hips. The slaks patterns were based on the lower half body shape characters and resulted in followings. (1) In the type 1, little difference from conventional patterns was seen in experiment pattern, in which the front waist girth was W/4{\times}0.5cm+0.5cm+fold(2.5cm) and the back waist girth W/4+0.5cm-0.5cm+dart(3.5cm). The front hip girth was defined as H/4+2.0cm+0.5cm and the back hip girth as H/4+2.0cm-0.5cm due to its increased ease amount produced by abdominal fat deposition. (2) In the type 2 experimental pattern, the front and back differences of the waist girth and the hip girth were defined as 1.0cm and 2.0cm separately. Accordingly, the front waist girth was W/4+0.5cm+ 1.0cm+fold(2.0cm), the back waist girth W/4+0.5cm-1.0cm+dart(6.5cm), the front hip girth H/4+2.0cm+1.0cm and the back hip girth H/4+2.0cm-1.0cm. (3) In type 3, the front waist girth was set up as W/4+0.5cm+0.5cm+fold (4.5cm) for the increased front fold amount and the back waist girth was W/4+0.5cm+0.5cm+dart(3.0cm). The front hip girth was made as H/4+2.5cm+0.5cm and the back hip girth H/4+2.5cm-0.5cm. (4) In type 4, considered were $\circled1$ the increased fornt fold amount due to the abdonimal protrusion, $\circled2$ the increased back dart amount and the decreased back dart length owing to the hips prominent and $\circled3$ the front and back differences of waist and hip girth for the lateral view silhouette. Therefore the front waist girth was defined as W/4+0.5cm+2.0cm+flod (5.0cm), the back waist girth as W/4+0.5cm-20.cm+dart(4.0cm), the front hip girth as H/4+2.0cm+1.0cm and the back hip girth as H/4+2.0cm-1.0cm. The sensory evaluation of appearance and comfort was appeared more suitable on the experiment pattern than on the conventional pattern.

• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.33-40
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• 1987

To study the body trunk basic to Clothing construction, and study the peculiarities of visual spatial division, necessary items are measured indirectly from 216 unmarried women from 19 to 24 years old by a photographic net-work method. In so doing, the problem of Fashion Design in establishing the location of Darts for Basic Dress is not considered. The following results are obtained. 1) Indirect measuring method, is obtained approximate to actual size, with an error of .+-. 2.8cm. 2) In the modeling plan of Dart location viewed from the visual-spatial division in Basic Dress, it is concluded that Darts are to be placed at the point of 1/3k+1/5k form the waist. From the aesthetic point of wiew, it is more appealling for darts to be placed at the point of 6cm .+-. 0.6cm right or left of center. 3) From direct measurement dart location can be set based on bust point width, and from indirect measurement, dart location can be set based on waist width.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.713-721
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• 2018

This study aimed to develop a draping manual for the basic bodice to be available in colleges and industries. For this, draping methods mentioned in six different textbooks were comparatively analyzed. As for the research method, draping methods were compared by using training textbook, and basic bodices designed with muslin were assessed using the 5-point Likert scale. First, the draping methods of basic bodices were comparatively analyzed. The main baselines were set as the center front line, the center back line, the bust line, and the shoulder blade line. The position of dart was suggested based on the princess line, in both the front and the back. The value of dart was classified as a fixed size with any associated excess. The length of dart was set based on the bust point and shoulder blade point or a fixed size. The amount of ease was randomly set based on the fixed size, bust circumference, waist circumference, interscye length, armholes and shoulder lines, or the worker's intuition. Second, according to the appearance evaluation of the patterns, the following patterns obtained the highest scores: A pattern 2.5cm away from the B.P point of the waist dart and shoulder dart in the frontal appearance, a pattern of 0.6~0.7cm ease for the front armhole, a pattern with an ease of 1.2cm in the bust and 0.6cm in the waist. As for back appearance, the pattern in which the point of waist dart is 2~3cm from the bust line received the highest score.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.407-412
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• 2005

This study is to establish the pattern for one piece dress which fits well to the women somatotype with different drop value and is functional and has high body fitness. Selected 2 testers from classified 4 types who were close to the average value and took twice dressing test. After successive correction and revision, patterns of one piece dress for each somatotype were established. M type ; Bust line is established to B/4+1.7 cm. Waist line is W/4+1.5+2.5 cm(dart amount) for front pattern and W/4+0.8+2 cm(dart amount) for back. Hip line is H/4+0.8 cm for front and H/4+0.8 cm for back and the bust dart amount is 2.5 cm. A type ; Bust line is established to B/4+1.7 cm. Waist line is W/4+1.5+2.5 cm (dart amount) for front pattern and W/4+0.8+2 cm(dart amount) for back. Hip line is H/4+1.5 cm for front and H/4+1 cm for back and the bust dart amount is 2.2 cm. X type ; Bust line is established to B/4+1.5 cm for front pattern and B/4+2 cm for back. Waist line is W/4+2+2.5 cm (dart amount) for front and W/4+1+2+1.4 cm(for two darts amount) for back. Hip line is H/4+1 cm for front and H/4+1.3cm for back and the bust dart amount is 2.8 cm. H type; Bust line is established to B/4+1.5 cm for front pattern and B/4+2cm for back. Waist line is W/4+1.7+2.5 cm (dart amount) for front and W/4+0.8+2 cm(dart amount) for back. Hip line is H/4+2 cm for front and H/4+1.5 cm for back and the bust dart amount is 2.8 cm. In order to achieve the objective evaluation on a new pattern in this study, the sensory evaluation for both Imwonja pattern and a new pattern in this study was completed. As a result of sensory evaluation, a new pattern of this study could accomplished a good appearance in reflecting characteristics of each types and could achieved the functional superiority than comparison pattern.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.661-671
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• 2011

This study was designed to produce rounded belt pattern and tight-skirt pattern drafting method using 3D body scan data. Subjects were thirty women in their early twenties. In order to figure out the optimum cutting points, namely, where darts are made, using CAD program, curve ratio inflection points on the horizontal curve of waist, abdomen, and hip to find 1 point in the front, two points in the back part. The average length from center front point to maximum curve ratio was 7.7 cm(46.3%) on the waist curve; 7.9 cm(39.4%) on the abdomen curve. And the average length from center back point to maximum curve ratio point was 6.9 cm(39.0%) for first dart and 11.2 cm(63.3%) for second dart on the waist curve; 8.9 cm(35.8%) for first dart and 15.7 cm(63.3%) for second dart on the hip curve respectively. The cutting lines from were made up by connecting curve inflection points. After divided using cutting lines, each patch was flattened onto the plane and all the technical design factors related with patternmaking were measured, such as dart amount, lifting amount of side waist point, etc. Based on the results of correlation analysis among these factors, regression analysis was done to produce equations to estimate the variables necessary to draw up pattern draft method; F1=F8+1.1, $F4=2.5{\times}F2+0.9$, $F5=0.9{\times}F4+1.0$, $F6=0.3{\times}F4+0.4$, $B1=0.9{\times}B8+2.3$, $B4=2.1{\times}B2+1.3$, $B5=0.9{\times}B4+3.5$, and $B6=0.3{\times}B4+0.4$.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.929-944
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to compare and analyze two original forms of slacks for thesis to extract outward appearance of design original form applying design measures of the above through diverse research methods. The results of this study are as follow: In original form F, the original form of slacks sloper suitable to elderly women 65~9 years old was W/4+3.5+0.5cm in the front/back circumference of waist, H/4cm in the front/back circumference of hip, (H/4+1+3.8)/2cm in the position of centerline, 19cm in actual measurement value of hip length, 25cm in actual measurement value of crotch depth, (knee crotch circumference~bottom line)/2+10cm and 90 (side waist dot~ lateral malleolus length)cm in actual measurement. front dart position was 1/3 and 2/3 of front waist centerline and back dart position was 1/3 and 2/3 of back waist circumference. It was suggested that front dart quantity (length) was 3.5(11)cm, back dart quantity 3.4 (10.2)cm, side waist up quantity 0.7cm, back down quantity 1.5cm, front crotch width (H/4+1)/4-1cm, back crotch width (H/4+1)/4+4, front knee width 21.8cm, back knee width 24.4cm, front pant leg 20.8cm, and back pant leg 23.4cm.