• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.712-722
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to examine the types and characteristics of decorative techniques applied to the Korean traditional skirt of contemporary style. For the purpose, this researcher selected 167 pieces of Korean traditional skirts which were shown in relevant monthly magazines published between 2001 and 2010. Then, the researcher classified the types of decorative techniques found in those selected pieces and analyzed the characteristics of decoration technique for each area of the pieces and the characteristics of patterns used in relation to those techniques. The Korean traditional skirt, otherwise called 'Hanbok chima', was classified into two types, single and composite, in accordance with which technique of decoration was used to it. The single type was characterized by so many embroideries, while the composite type, a combination of two decorative techniques, seonchigi and jatmulim. In the Korean traditional skirt, decorative techniques were applied to the knotting and entire of the skirt. Patterns used to decorate the Korean traditional skirt were usually in form of embroidery, gold or silver foil or painting. Out of the patterns, those which were embroidered or painted were shaped flowers, while those which were plated with gold or silver are shaped bosangdangchomun and flowers. There were other decorative techniques than mentioned above, for example, applying two or more different colors to the hem of the skirt, attaching pads to the knotting of the skirt and padding a decorative cloth on the front center of the skirt.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.68-91
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to create modern patterns based on considering the types and design elements of Joseon hwapo patterns containing Korean identity, and to develop costume designs by applying design elements of traditional Korean dress, Hanbok. These designs combine traditional costumes with modern sensibility using the attribute listing method, and present them using a 3D virtual clothing program. Through this, it is meaningful as it organizes data on Joseon hwapo patterns, which were rarely dealt with in the traditional Korean costume research, and it is also of research value as it is a work that utilizes Joseon hwapo patterns as a new source of fashion design development. As a research method, literature research was conducted based on the documents, 'Nabeshima-sarasa hidensho', 'Nabeshima-sarasa mihoncho', and 'Zoho kafu benran', which are related to Joseon hwapo remaining in Japan. Based on the literature research, research was performed by creating pattern design and costume design using the attribute listing method, and 3D virtual clothing. Traditional Korean costumes used in design development in this study were saekdong-jeogori, dolddi-jeogori, magoja, hongjangsam, durumagi, jungdan, gollyongpo, jeogui, breast band, mujigi-chima, chima, and baji. Further, accessories used in each costume, such as pyeseul, daedae, hapi, and jeonhaeng-utchima, and features of configurations, such as yongbo, chest ribbons, band hem, gusset, collar and dongjung, heorimalgi, neckline, and sapok line, were used for design development.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.7
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• pp.1205-1219
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• 2010

This study analyzes the conditions and products of internet shopping malls that sell natural dyeing products. In this study, 98 natural dyeing internet shopping malls were selected. The results of this study are as follows. The locations of the internet shopping malls were Gyeonggi-do, Seoul, Jeollanam-do, Gyeongsangbuk-do, Gwang-ju (city), Daegu (city), Busan (city), Gyeongsangnam-do, and Jeju-do. The most frequent dyes of the natural dyeing products were loess, followed by charcoal, indigo, and persimmon. Indigo was most frequently used in Seoul, with loess and charcoal most frequent in Gyeonggi-do. Persimmon, indigo, loess, and charcoal were mainly used in Jeollanam-do, with persimmon and loess in the Gyeongsangbuk-do, and persimmon in Jeju-do. The highest ordered product categories were accessories, followed by adult clothing, interior decoration products, and bedding. The most frequent products were bedclothes, followed by scarves, female shirts, blouses, pillows, female jackets, and vests. Regarding the price of products, 150,000-200,000 won was the highest for the Saenghwal Hanbok, with 10,000-30,000 won for underwear, 30,000-60,000 won for accessories, and 100,000-150,000 won for bedding. Concerning product information, 58.2% of internet shopping malls offer the product size and almost half of them did not show the properties or directions for handling the product. Based on the research results, the problems of the conditions and products of natural dyeing internet shopping mall were derived. The results show that the natural dyes of internet shopping malls lacked regional symbolism, the products were not specialized, and product information was not fully offered to consumers. To solve these problems, the strategies for marketing the promotion of the natural dyeing internet shopping mall were, ‘Using natural dyes from local resources’, ‘Market oriented and specialized item design’, and ‘Offer right product information’.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.8
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• pp.132-151
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• 2009

All of 132 kinds of fabrics are used in excavated costume from the Dongrae Jung's Tomb. Classified by its materials, it is divided into small groups as follows: 58 pieces of silk tabby 43.9%, 2 of filament silk tabby 1.5%, 14 of thin filament silk tabby 10.6%, 19 of spun yarn silk 14.4%, 4 of twill without a pattern 3.0%, 8 of patterned silk tabby 6.1%, 23 of satin damask 17.4%, 1 of damask with supplementary gold thread 0.8%, 2 of mixture fabric with silk and cotton 1.5%, and 1 of ramie fabric 0.8%. Classified by ways of weaving: 96 pieces of plain weave 73%, 23 of satin weave 17%, 8 of patterned silk tabby consisting of plain weave material and twill weave pattern-6%, 4 of twill weave 3%, and 1 of compound weave 1 %. In point of patterns, the most often used ones are plant patterns such as lotus patterns, peony patterns, plum blossom patterns, flowers representing seasons patterns, and small flower patterns. For animal patterns, it has phoenix patterns designed together with flowers representing seasons patterns. And for natural scenery patterns, it shows cloud patterns with treasures patterns together. For object patterns, it also shows treasures patterns mixed with cloud or lotus together. For geometrical patterns, it has rhomboid patterns and 卍 character patterns; some show only rhomboid patterns and others show material patterns of 卍 character patterns blended together with fruit, lotus, etc.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.51 no.3
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• pp.285-291
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• 2013

Interest in traditional culture has been increasing due to globalization. We need to create fashion items using Korea folk culture like the Hanbok. In this paper, the design development of toddler's pajamas was attempted by using women's Sokgot pants, which were worn by women in Joseon Dynasty period. The study involved a review of literature and an investigation of past relics. Traditional women's Sokgot pants had a 'mu' or 'dang' in the crotch which is called 'the mit' now. The opening of the mit will be used for designing toddler's pajamas. Design suggestions for four styles of toddler's pajamas, which reflect the formative characteristic of women's Sokgot pants, have been created. Research outcomes are as follow: the characteristics of Ran-pants are applied to design 1 and design 2. There have pleats along the waistband of the toddler's pajamas, making the Mu more hidden. Pleats of the waist part are achieved by using an elastic, which also makes the pajamas easier to fit and to wear. The characteristics of Gaedanggo, of which the crotch is opened, are applied to design 3 and design 4. The opened crotch is applied so that toddlers can relieve themselves easily while they are wearing these pajamas. There is also an opening in the centerline of the front Mu in design 4 which gives additional functionality and comfort. This work shows that items of traditional folk dress can be used to make present fashion items.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.1
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• pp.30-45
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• 2015

This study summarizes the dissemination aspects of liturgical vestments in Korea, and organizes the value and meanings of these disseminations as it appeared in the history of costumes by carrying out an empirical analysis on the relics of liturgical vestments since the modern times. It also examines its design characteristics as well. Liturgical vestments have symbolic meaning for the purpose and solar term of ceremonial occasions and it also functions as a way to differentiate the position and duty of the clergy. Liturgical vestments developed on the basis of ancient Greek-Roman costumes and transformed each situation and social trend of the age. Korean liturgical vestments started with their traditional costumes, in 1887, it were changed into French(western) style with freedom of religious. After the secondary Vatican Council held in 1962, various regulations were changed to spread the Catholic doctrines and ideology. This study conducted an empirical analysis and design consideration on the 28 relics of modern liturgical vestments on the basis of the foregoing standard and concept. As a result of analysis, relics were investigated as research materials worn by Bishops after 1960s. And design elements are that the relics used materials and ornament of Hanbok with flower patterns and decoration such as letter patterns including 壽(life) 福(luck) 喜(pleasure) as well as Chrysanthemum and Mancaowen design. These transition reflected by amend regulation of Vatican Council II. Accordingly, this data has been confirmed to be important for the history of costumes as it informs what process of changes liturgical vestments spread in Korea went through before they are worn as current appearance.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.105-115
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• 2014

The costumes (including mask) of the first World Master series of The National Changguk Company of Korea, Achim Freyer's 'Mr. Rabbit & Dragon king' is directly designed by Achim Freyer who was in charge of direction and stage design. The new form called Pansori opera is proposed for modernization of Korean traditional opera, it maintained the original form of music yet introduced play form of opera. The costumes and stage also promoted modernistic transformation while maintaining the original Korean form. The overall concept of 'Mr. Rabbit & Dragon king' costumes emphasizes comical effect by abstractness like childlike scribble. It expressed characteristic of characters diversely through exaggeration and expansion while maintaining original form of Hanbok, used surface of costumes as a drawing board, and created flat and geometrically transformed silhouette. The complicated characters was caricatured like everyone is doing mask play by using masks, and it still maintained sophisticated oriental color with modern application of five cardinal colors. It may seems it just mixed our traditional elements like a hint of humor, however, it could be known that it introduced various techniques in it to deliver new subject while maintaining the original form of 'Mr. Rabbit & Dragon king'. From this study, open mind for our tradition and need for diverse attempt could be rediscovered and could also see the possibility to contribute on creating a Nation Brand of traditional performing art.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.715-724
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• 2003

The Korean clothing culture has shown rapid changes along with influences of western cultures, with social changes due to the liberation from Japan, the Korean War, and the economic growth concentrated on export since the westernization of Korea had begun. Also clothing materials, as a phase of such culture, have been changed. Among silk fabrics, "Dan (단: damask of satin texture with Korean traditional patterns are inwoven)", which has been concerned one of the most beautiful and precious fabrics due to its complexity and difficulty of processing. Since the beginning of the Era of Enlightenment(Kae-hwa-gi), Dan fabric materials and weaving methods have changed. It seems that the figured texture using the Jacquard loom began in 1936. when the Jacquard machine began to be imported from Japan into Korea. From that time on, new fabric materials, such as yangdan (양단), and popdan (법단), hobakdan (호박단), silk and rayon mixed Dan(교직양단) began to be produced. Before 1950's there were some restrictions about the Number of wefts, so the production of the one colored dan(단색단) was more common than that of the multi colored dan(다색단). But with the spread of 4$\times$4 shuttle box loom (양사정직기), various kinds of the multi colored dan have been produced after 1960's. Around the end of 1980's, automatic shuttle change loom have been generalized and 7 color dan(칠색단), 9 color gumsadan (구색금사단) have been current in multi colored dan. In terms of materials, synthetic and chemical textiles had been used widely and alter 1980's most fabrics, of which the ground weave is not being woven with satin-weave but being woven with plain or twill-weave, are named Dan in general.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.87-101
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• 2019

The sleeve is closely connected with activity in terms of costume. As a kind of overcoat, Dap-ho of the Joseon Dynasty is short-sleeved or sleeveless. Dap-ho, with simple sleeves is convenient for layering and taking off and since it is easily adjustable using a gusset, a slit, or coat string, and this can be applied to layered look-related designs. This study aims to suggest a design item, which sustains the existence of traditional costumes and facilitates diverse layered looks and co-ordination, using the formative elements of Dap-ho. For this study, theoretical backgrounds and relics of Dap-ho of the Joseon Dynasty were analyzed, based on the previous studies, ancient literature, "The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty", and relics preserved in museums. The analysis targeted nine relics that show the birth and death years and the constructive changes in shapes, colors, materials of Dap-ho. Formative elements of Dap-ho were applied to the designing and the manufacturing of clothes for middle-aged women in their fifties and the research conclusions are as follows. First, from a morphological perspective, the silhouette, gusset, slit, and the indirectly attached coat string of Dap-ho are good to be used as various design items for covering the body shapes of middle-aged women, and the short-sleeved or sleeveless type is convenient to be layered. Second, when it comes to the material, it is possible to emphasize a traditional image and practicality at the same time by mixing and matching the Hanbok cloth and cotton. Third, in relation to the colors, the coexistence-based color arrangement method considering the theory of Yin and Yang can be applied to modern clothes and this makes it possible to express a traditional image in a harmonious way.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.49-63
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• 2019

The purpose of this study is to examine the characteristics of modular design observed in Korean traditional clothing. Modular design, which is one of the noticeable characteristics of modern fashion design emerged in the 20th century. This study analyzed the Korean traditional culture to investigate the characteristics that show similarities to the modular system in design. A traditional Korean house is composed of small structures called 'chae'. A traditional Korean building is composed of a basic unit space called 'kan', and the rooms are divided and recombined. Korean traditional interior design shows furniture, bedding and art works that could be used, folded then stored. Korean cuisine is served in combination with small dishes. Korean letters are combined in square shaped form to make writing and printing easy. Korean traditional clothing has a way of washing where clothing are disassembled, washed and then re-stitched. The pattern pieces are made to be rectangular shaped so that the fabric pieces can be kept in shape during washing. The rectangular shaped pattern pieces can be replaced and reused after washing. Tops and bottoms could be interchanged for color-coordination, because the shapes of the clothing were standardized. These features exhibit modular system in Korean traditional clothing design. Modular system design has common characteristics which have basic modules, pursue practical purpose, have interchangeability adapted to circumstances, and could be disassembled and re-combined. Korean traditional clothing illustrates different ways of practicing modular system, but has some common features to contemporary modular fashion design.