• 대한가정학회지
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• 제31권1호
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• pp.225-239
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• 1993

The purpose of this study is to look for the basic formative elements of housekeeping space of our cultural life which are worthy to succeed and develop by revaluating in modern view and to reveal what we should maintain form the women's view of the housework in those days. In this study, out look on Chosun Dynasty housekeeping is based on the norm of the women in those days. The research on the housekeeping space for norm of the women in those days. the research on the housekeeping space for Chosun Dynasty upperclass is focused on the house built from early till late Chosun Dynasty, which is now a cultural asset. As a result, norm of Chosun Dynasty have created a social wide atmosphere for women to devote herselves to the housekeeping. Moreover the constructions of Chosun Dynasty's upperclass are affected by Korea's natural environment and socio-cultural environment. Primary factors for natural environment are building materials and the change of seasons. Because of changeable seasons, there were places for storing massive commodities. The other primary factors for socio-cultural environment affecting housekeeping space were social positions, and extended family system, worshipping the ancestors standard of living, the theory of“Poong Soo”(風水, a kind of geomancy) and thought of“Yin and Yang, Five Elements”(陰陽五行) and popular belief of that time. Affected by these two environments, the characteristics of housekeeping space for Chosun Dynasty are ; the main building of the house was used as a diverted area for women to work, and was reconstructed for household affairs. There were inefficient points in the housekeeping space of that time and the space remained stagnant because of the restricted sex and the social position of housekeeping doer. But you could find some points that are efficient and functional to adjust in those living conditions. The storehouse, storage barn, shed and soyjar terrace are the specialized storing place, according to the kinds and characteristics of the commodities. the kitchen, for example, is the combinations of many abilities. It is not only for cooking or heating the room, but also for storing drinking water. The hall which was the storing place, housekeeping place and also the place for family events are used as a diverted place. The linked arrangement of kitchen, store house, boudoir and the other rooms. In addition, we can see that the construction of the kitchen for more than tow people could work in.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제6권3호
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• pp.169-183
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• 2004

This study attempts to understand women's underwear culture in the Later Chosun Dynasty, by investigating the kinds and constructions of them, which formed bulky and puffed silhouette of the lower half of the body. In the middle 17th century in Chosun, Confucianism settled down as fundamental idea of society, while whole country achieved considerable economic growth. As a result for upperclass women, female virtues was demanded more than any other period in Chosun. On the other hand, lower-class women including Kisaengs, had more freedom on their clothing behaviors. According to the literature on women's dress institutions and restrictions of the extravagance, the use of kinds of high-quality silk and false hair was criticized, compared to women's clothes in China. From this, one can see the luxury and affluence of women's clothes at that time, which also reflected in luxurious underclothes. Also, the movement of class, by economic development, led to changes in the costumes of middle-to-lower class women, relaxing restrictions on clothes. Underclothes included Bosomband(가슴띠; long sashes for bosom to wrap), Sokjucksam(속적삼), and Sokchogori(속저고리; Korean blouse, worn under the chogori) for upper garment, and Darisokkok(다리속곳; basic underwear like the panty), Soksokkot(속속곳; underwear paji to be wide of hem), Sokpaji(속바지;trouser front and back opening), Tansokkok(단속곳; large size underwear like Soksokkot), Noronpaji(너른바지; paji like the skirt or paji bulky than tansokkot,), Mujigi무지기; tiered skirt for underwear), and Daeshumchi'ma(대슘치마; Korean underskirt, shape hem as a pad into form) for lower clothes.

• 한국시조학회지:시조학논총
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• 제26집
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• pp.151-185
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• 2007

사대부 계층이 중심이 되어 이루어진 시조에 삶의 물적 토대인 구체적 생산의 현실이 어떻게 투영되어 있는가를 살피는 것이 이 글의 목적이다. 생산 관련 생활은 사회 체제의 필연적 근거인데, 생산 활동과 무관한 것으로 보이는 시조를 이런 관점에서 논의하는 일은 시조 작품과 작가를 이해하는 또 다른 방법이다. 생활을 다룬 시조의 작가는 크게 유명씨와 무명씨로 나누어진다. 유명씨는 사대부와 평민 가객, 무명씨는 사대부와 평민 가객, 시정인으로 구성되어 있다. 시대적으로 14-17세기에는 사대부 작가가 중심이고 18-19세기에는 평민 가객이 새로운 작가층으로 부상하여 사대부 작가와 같은 비중을 차지하다가 평민 가객이 우위를 점하고 무명씨가 대거 참여한다. 다음으로 시적 자아의 입장에서 유명씨의 14-17세기 작품에 나타난 시적 자아는 촌부, 일을 함께 하려는 농부, 일을 시키는 상전, 실제 일하는 농부 등으로 되어 있고 18-19세기 작품에는 전원인, 구경꾼, 일을 하거나 원망하는 농민 등이 중심이다. 이는 구체적 생산 활동이 점차 사실적으로 표현돼 가던 추세의 반영이다. 무명씨의 작품은 유명씨와 유사한 점이 있으면서도 상업 활동을 하는 시적 자아의 등장이 특이하다. 생활의 내용과 그 표현 방식에서 14-17세기 작품에는 논밭갈이, 산나물 캐기, 벼베기, 풀베기 등 여러 생활을 한 작품 안에 포괄하여 표현하는 작품이 많이 나타나며 관념적 용어에서 구체적 생활을 구어로 표현하는 작품이 나타나기 시작한다. 문장은 평서문, 의문문, 감탄문, 명령문, 청유문의 순서로 많이 사용된다. 18-19세기 작품에 나타난 생활은 물건 매매. 산전과 수전의 개간, 베짜기, 물푸기, 가렴주구 등 매우 구체적인 일들을, 하나씩 각각 한 작품 내에 집중적으로 구체적 생활에서 쓰는 구어를 더 많이 사용하여 주로 평서문과 의문문으로 표현한다. 무명씨 작품에 표현된 생활의 종류 유명씨 작품의 경우와 비슷하나 논밭갈이, 김매기, 벼 베기 등의 전통적 일반 생활에 옷 만들기, 물건 장수와 같은 구체적 생활이 부가적으로 더 표현된 점이 다르다. 표현 방법은 유명씨 작품의 전대 선례에서 점차 후대의 선례를 더 많이 수용하는 방향으로 바뀌며 문장 형태에서는 명령문, 명령문이 가장 많이 사용된다.

• 복식
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• 제5권
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• pp.41-63
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• 1981

The mural portraits of the ancient Dukheungri tombs are very important for the study of our traditional costume because the tomb contains a stone. with the in-scription of the date of its erection, 408 A.D. and the name, and official status of the buried. The costumes shown in the mural paintings will be the basis on which historical research can be made concerning costumes before and after 400 A. D. The costume in the mural paintings is classified into five different categories; You (jacket), Po (overcoat), Go (trousers), Sang (skirt), and Gwan (hat). Comparing these categories with those of other mural paintings lead us to the following conclusions. 1. The length of the You (jacket) reaches below the buttocks and the sleeves are narrow. The edges of the sleeves are decorated with stripes. The You (jacket) over-laps on the right, center, and left sides, and there are many Jikryong (V-collar) and Danryong (rounded collar) styles, but it has a similar tendency to others of the Pyongyang area which exhibit many foreign influences. In a departure from tradition. the belts on the men's You (jackets) have only 3 knots in the front, with the back having more knots than the front. The belts of the women's You (jacket) seem to have had a band or button for fastening. We must re-evaluate the assumption that the You (jacket) and Go (trousers) of the northern peoples had the common characters of a belted You (jacket) and Po (over-coat) and that the Gorum originated from the Goryo or Unified Silla dynasty. The outside of the sleeves are longer and more to the side than the inner garment (underwear) so that the sleeves of the inner garment frequently overlapped the outer dress. The above mentioned facts have lead to the discovery of the "Hansam," "Tosi" and "Geodoolgi." 2. The Po (overcoat) was used only by the upperclasses and differs from those found in other mural tombs. The Po (overcoat) of the noble on the tomb mural is centered with an overlapping Jikryong (V-collar) while the other Po (overcoats) of the upperclasses are characterized by an overlap on the left, a Danryong (rounded collar) with two types of sleeves (wide and narrow). Foreign influences and traditional influences coexist in Po (overcoat). Belts have frontal knots without exceptions. The facts that the belts on the You (jackets) are on the front and the belts on the Po (overcoats) are on the back must be reexamined. 3. Go (trousers) is usually narrow, being wider in the rear and narrower below the knees. They were used by hunters on the back of horses with similar Go (trousers) from the Noinwoowha tombs being typical of the northern peoples. 4. Sang (skirts) are pleated as commonly seen in the Goguryo murals. The size of the pleat is varied, each pleat being characteristically wider and having different colors. Same types of pleat are discovered in Central Asia and China. It is uncertain whether the pleat of Goguryo was originated in Central Asia and China or only interrelated with those of the areas. 5. There are three kinds of Gwan (hats); Nagwan, Chuck, and Heukgun. Nag-wan was worn by the dead lords and their close relations. Chuck has three cone shaped horns. Heukgun was worn by military bandmen and horsemen. There are two kinds of hair styles. The up-style was used by the upperclass people closely related to lords, and other people used the Pungimoung hair style. The hair styles of the men and women are characterized by the Pungimoung style. which is a Chinese influence, but still retain their originality. The costume has a similar tendency from those from Yaksuri mural tombs, Anak No. 2 and Anak No. 3. We need to reexamine the costumes from $4{\sim}5$ century murals according to the Dukheungri murals. The costumes of Goguryo share many common factors with those of Western Asia, Central Asia and Ancient China (Han). It seems due to the cultural exchanges among the Northern peoples, the Western and Central Asians, and the Ancient Chinese. It may have resulted from the structural identity or morphological identity of the peoples, or their common social and natural environments and life styles. It will be very valuable to study the costumes of Japan, China, and Korea to find out the common factors. It is only regretful that the study is not based on direct observations but reported information made by 77 persons, because Dukheungri is an off-limits area to us.