• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.101-114
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• 2007

This research aimed to identify the differences, in terms of the pattern, of using wool and jersey for designing jackets and to provide a theorized solution. The object of this study is development of women's tailored jacket pattern by the traits of fabrics with fabrics those are generally used to develop the power of manufacturing technique about fit of jacket. Basic bodies prototype, graphics of sleeves prototype and graphics of jacket pattern those a clothing company at present(on&on, a brand of Beaucre Merchandising Co.,Ltd) is using were used as basics of tailored jacket pattern. Three kinds of fabric(wool, polyester, jersey) were chosen, we made jackets in the same manufacturing process of the clothing company, modified and made up for the weak points and then we compared and analyzed differences of pattern by the traits of fabrics, the results are as follows: 1) We drafted basic tailored style jacket pattern, made a jacket with wool fabric, made wearing experiment, modified and made up for the weak points by the trend, then developed JacketⅠ for study; 2) With JacketⅠ for study as the basic, we made a jacket with polyester fabric, made wearing experiment, modified and made up for the weak points, then developed Jacket II for study; 3) With JacketⅠ for study as the basic, we made a jacket with jersey fabric, made wearing experiment, modified and made up for the weak points, then developed Jacket III for study; 4) We presented final degree of polymerization of pattern with Jacket I II III for study; 5) We compared and analyzed the differences of pattern with the degree of polymerization of pattern with Jacket I(Wool) for study and Jacket II(Polyester), there was no change of size overall except extra amount which happens because of the trait of the fabric in 20 items of body format pattern, there were differences of size in 3 items(height of a sleeve, width of a sleeve, length of a sleeve) among 5 items of sleeves pattern; 6) We compared and analyzed the differences of pattern with the degree of polymerization of pattern with Jacket I(Wool) for study and Jacket III(Jersey) for study, there were differences of size by the kinds of fabric in 11 items(neck point to shoulder point length, Bishoulder point length, back interscye length, front interscye length, armhole circumference, depth of armhole, chest circumference, bust circumference, waist circumference, hip circumference, waist dart) among 20 items of body format pattern, there were differences of size by the kinds of fabric in 5 items(height of a sleeve, circumference of a sleeve, width of a sleeve, length of a sleeve, width of bottom of a sleeve) among 5 items of sleeves pattern.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.75-85
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• 2007

This study analyzes characterization and classification of body types of Mongolian women. 100 adult subjects within the 20 to 49 age group were studied. The physical measurements of the research subjects come up to a total of 50 items. Data was statistically analyzed with SPSS program using basic statistics, t-test, one-way ANOV A, Duncan-test, factor analysis and cluster analysis. The conclusions are as follows. In the result of factors analysis in physical measurements of Mongolian women, 7 factors such as on the obesity of body, the vertical size of body, hip length, the bust from back length, the bust from front length, the ankle size and the shoulder size were extracted. The accumulated contributory rate of these was 70.7%. The cluster analysis for the comparison of the body types, by categorizing the body types produced three types. Mongolian women were grouped as those with the short stature and light weight, the medium stature and heavy weight, the tall stature and medium weight. The comparison of 50 items in physical measurements between Korean women and Mongolian women resulted in the differences in 39 items. While the height items including stature between them showed negligible differences, most of the length items relating to breadth, circumference, depth and obesity showed differences, which were big.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.45-58
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to provide for the basic data useful to the development of a quality bassiere featuring a good wearing feeling, to investigate the characteristics of breast shapes by age and suggest a brassiere sizing system for woman. For this purpose, the subjects of anthropometry were 220 women aged between 20 and 59. The anthropometric measurements were analyzed by various statistical methods mean, standard deviation, F-test, Duncan-test, Factor analysis, frequency. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. According to the increase of age, the items of height were decreased and items of width, depth, circumference and length were increased, being obeser and breast point were drooped. So volume and bottom area of breast of 40 50's women were larger than 20 30's women and breast point width of 40 50's women was being wider by increase of the interior of breast. 2. From analyzing the effect of brassiere wearing, it was found that brassiere reformed the breast shape with the breast volume transferred from exterior part to interior part and the bottom area of breast diminished, so brassiere can have the breast location of adult woman up and the breast point width being centered 3. It was found that there was no direct linear relationships between under bust girth and cup size from analysis of breast measurements. Therefore those 2 factors(under bust girth and cup size) was brought into basic item of brassiere sizing system. From the dual distribution table whose intervals had been decided by KS K-0070(1999), it was picked out 12 sizes which had more than 4% of appearance for suggesting brassiere size chart. The sizing system covers 76.36% of all subjects and supply reference measurements relevant to brassiere manufacturing.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.137-156
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to analyze the general status of wearing clothes and clothing purchase of middle-aged women in the 40's to 50's, the patterns and colors of clothes they prefer, clothing preference related with fitting or such, and also complaints. And this paper also divides the middle-aged women into those in the 40's and 50's to analyze how they differ in terms of the apparel brands and fitting they prefer and also the status of wearing clothes. For the research, a survey was performed to 350 women, and the survey data went through x2 and t-test analysis by using SPSS 20.0 to examine significant difference. The results of this study are as follows: the women in the 40's included as the subjects showed a high frequency of clothing purchase from casual brands or SPA brands and regarded design to be important at the clothing purchase. Meanwhile, the women in the 50's indicated a higher frequency of clothing purchase of middle-aged women's apparel brands, outdoor brands, madam clothes, or designer brands and thought activity to be crucial at the clothing purchase. As the women in the 40's and 50's showed difference in the brands they preferred, particularly the fitting indicated difference in terms of dissatisfaction. While those in the 40's preferring and buying young casual showed particularly more fitting problems in the arm-hole girth, upper arm circumference, bust size, and thigh or hip area, those in the 50's indicated fitting problems in the hip circumference or waist measurement. It is expected that this study will be used as foundational data to set up the target age by related apparel companies or develop clothes with great size fitting and design satisfaction.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.13-24
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to design Jugori model compatible with the body types of the middle-aged women especially from 40 to 59 years old. The result is as follows: We decided five items as the necessary items for designing jugori model : the bust girth (the breast & shoulder width), the B.P length, the neck width, the armhole circumference, and Hwa-jang. The breast & shoulder width are the size that comes out if the bust is divided by the breast & shoulder width on the basis of the side line, and Hwa-jang is a length measured with arms stretched out to 0° direction. With each person's physical characteristics considered, the application of the size of each body types and body parts is as follows: 1. The breast & shoulder width (1/4 portion) : We decided B/4+2cm as a standard size and, we adjusted the extra room on the basis of the discrepancy between the breast width and the shoulder width to make it fit well to the each body type. For the breast width (1/2 portion), we bisected the difference between the breast width and the shoulder width of the bust, and moved Gut-sup to the center of the Sup and Sup-sun for An-sup. According to the body type, the movement of the Sup for the people with big breasts gets bigger because there should be a big difference between the breast width and the shoulder width for them, and for the people with small breasts the movement will be relatively smaller. For the shoulder width (1/2 portion), we curved the back center line after we shortened as much as the difference between the amount of the shoulder width/2+1cm and of B/4+2cm. The movement of back center line will be bigger for a person with leaned-backward body type. 2. The front & back length: We made the front length to B.P length+2.5cm to have Jugori cover the breast point fully around the bust line, which is a vogue nowadays. For an upright body type, we decided the back length as (AH/2.2)+5cm. And for a bent-forward and a leaned-backward body type, we adjusted the calculation formulae differently taking the physical characteristics into account. We decided the back length (A) as (A.H/2.2)+5cm, and the front length (B) as the back length+5cm. So, (A+B) is the sum of the front length and the back length. Going back to the original formula, the front length is B.P+2.5cm. So, we can decide the back length if we subtract B.P+2.5cm from the sum of the front length and the back length. To make well-fit Jugoris, the front & back length are areas that we should pay attention to if we take each person's physical characteristics into consideration. 3. Go-dae (1/2 portion) : We decided Go-dae as the neck width/2+0.5cm. For an upright body type, because the base line which went down vertically from the tragion was straight, we generally decided Go-dae Dalim line as 1.0cm. But we decided Go-dae Dalim line down to 1.5cm for bent-forward type and up to 0.2cm for leaned-backward type because the upper half of the body of them was bent forward or leaned backward from the base line. 4. The armhole : We decided the armhole circumference as A.H/2+2cm with the whole extra room of 4cm. 5. The side line length : We can calculate the side line length to (the back length-the armhole)/2, and, in terms of the trend, 2.5cm will be appropriate.