• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권5호
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• pp.706-718
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• 2014

Ideology which symbolizes the belief system about the order of human society represents itself in a concrete form through dress which reflects material and conceptual world. In the early 1960s Korea, where a civil revolution and a military coup took place, good examples of dress representing ideology could be found. This study investigates the dress representing ideology of the period, and examines its manifestation and aspect of transition. Literature survey and case study were conducted. The following results were obtained: First, dress representing ideology was symbolically verifying its differences and was changing with the course of time. There were the flow going down from the government, and the flow going up from the movement of the civilian. Through this process, design elements of ideological dress were combined in a dialectic way to form a new representational dress such as Jaegunbok. Second, costly and luxurious clothes meant a tool to rule over people, and the opposition was uniform meaning equality. In 1960 Korea, black waves of school uniforms appeared to lead the social change. A year later, the military government seized power in a 5.16 coup and it enforced uniform upon every people to achieve equal austerity and modernized spirit. Lastly, cotton, which was originated from Gandhi's movement in India, was symbolizing nationalism till the early 1960s in Korea meaning the funding own development with own resources.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.485-491
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• 2014

This study verified the effect of summer flight ventilation developed in a previous study based on wearing comfort evaluation. Seven healthy males in their twenties volunteered for this experiment conducted in aclimatic chamber. The experiment consisted of three consecutive periods of rest (20 minutes), running on a treadmill (10 minutes) and recovery (20 minutes). A comparative evaluation was conducted on the general flight suit which had no ventilation holes and summer flight suit that use subjective satisfaction measures and objective measures. The subjective satisfaction was evaluated according to the criteria of temperature sensation, wet sensation, thermal comfort and fatigue sensation. The objective satisfaction was measured by skin temperature, microclimate (temperature and humidity), sweat rate and thermography. The comparative wearing evaluation identified the summer flight suit decreased the temperature between skin and suit by $0.42^{\circ}C$ (upper arm), $0.9^{\circ}C$ (calf) and the skin temperature by $0.3^{\circ}C$ (shoulder), $0.4^{\circ}C$ (upper arm), $0.5^{\circ}C$ (calf) as compared to the general flight suit. The humidity inside the summer flight suit decreased at head (7.73%), shoulder (5.86%), upper arm (5.26%), and calf (8.73%) compared to the one inside the general flight suit. Thermography showed that the air flowed through ventilation holes (neck and armpit). The design of ventilation holes applied to the summer flight suit can be applicable to overall clothing that requires thermal comfort such as dust-free garments, mechanical clothing and combat uniforms.

• 복식
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• 제53권6호
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• pp.45-61
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• 2003

Parhae and ancient Japan officially exchanged at 34 times during the period from AD.727 to AD.920. The envoys of each nation also sent the other nation with some items. The names of the items are identified by the historical records; those which Parhae presented to ancient Japan were leader shoes, which is called AmMoHwa(암모화), belt(대) various leaders and those which ancient Japan presented to Parhae were formal uniforms[관복], various textiles, coronet, shoes. We can recognize that the leader items of Parhae are frequently recorded as the gift to ancient Japan because they were the main manufactures in Parhae at that time. In addition, the government of ancient Japan gave the Parhae's envoys a high rank, five-grade(5위) and noble costumes like JinKaeEui(진개의) and so on were well-matched with their high rank. While being official exchanges, it is supposed that there were lots of other unofficial exchanges. Historically, in Japan, the time came under Nara(나양) era(AD.719~AD.794) and the beginning of PyungAn(평안) era(AD.794~AD.1192) and in the same way in Parhae, King Mun(737-793) reign. One of the features at that time is that Tang's culture was introduced to ancient Japan positively. Since Nara era strongly accepted Tang's culture, I assume that Nara costumes were affected by Tang's therefore they are the same as Tang's. In the same way, Parhae's costumes are the same as Tang's, too. The point is, it is expected that the costumes of Parhae which were exchanged with ancient Japan are similar to those of Nara by the medium of Tang's costumes.

• 복식
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• 제61권4호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2011

The purpose of this research is to find out more usages in today's fashion industry where various designs and changes of production required. And this research will also suggest new products and new directions to enhance the efficiency of product planning and production in knit industry using SDS-ONE program. Ethiopia in East Africa, knit already has been used as a school uniform. There is a big difference in temperature spread due to. Knit is a proper item to initiate the textile industries of underdeveloped countries. So this research can develop knit industry and lead the trend of introducing fashion in school uniforms. In this research, we use Paint of SDS-ONE to transform the patterned item into color jacquard, and show it on the designed clothes using simulation. It is shown that body painting pattern is suitable conditions for knit jacquard and simplified pattern can be applied as an excellent knit. And it is discovered the simulation feature of SDS-ONE program has a high efficiency and can be used effectively in African textile industry the future mass production base; SDS-ONE simulation can show various patterns and colors with constrained kinds of threads. Since the body painting designs can be applied in various fields, and from women's wear to men's wear, without limitation, we can take advantage of the broad.

• 복식
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• 제61권4호
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• pp.92-102
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• 2011

This study researches the current status of shrouds and analyzes the current status of the Hanji shrouds and sets its goal on suggesting the direction for a futuristic shroud design, suitable for the changing funeral culture. For this, the characteristics of traditional shrouds were studied, standard shrouds' and Hanji shrouds' current statuses were researched and analyzed to suggest the development diretion for design of Hanji shrouds. The results of the research showed that the Hanji shrouds are superior in cremation and burial, and the design expressions were more effective. Also the previously established shrouds were shown to have an increase in value through use of different materials, changing designs through various patterns, or through the added symbolic value. Thus the direction of shroud development designs based on the advantages of Hanji have been drawn out to as follows: First, traditional shrouds used the ceremonial dresses, such as official uniforms or wedding dresses, from the Tang dynasty which made it multicolored. Afterwards colors were limited with the use of hemp clothes shrouds but with the appearance of Hanji shrouds, the possibility for mulitcolors and patterns became larger. Second, Hanji is superior in its expression of colors and patterns, making designs with symbolic sides such as religion possible, to meet the demands of the customers. Third, Hanji shrouds are more environmentaly friendly than the standard shrouds in cremation and burial, and it presents a much better image of shrouds for the future society. Such development of Hanji shrouds design developments satisfies the distinct and gentrified demands of the customers and it looks to be able to suggest an opportunity for environmentaly friendly actions while preparing itself for the chaning market demands and values.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제2권5호
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• pp.423-429
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• 2000

This study was conducted to find out the relationship between skin temperature and clothing temperature in body parts. Four different kinds of fabrics were used in this experiment. These fabrics were a (Ny/Spun, 81.8/18.2%), b (Wool/Poly/span, 50/45/5%), (Wool/Ny/Span70/25/5) and d (Wool/Poly/Span 45/45/10%). The subjects skated at indoor ice rink where the length was 111.12 m, the temperature was $11{\pm}1^{\circ}C$ and the humidity was $70{\pm}10%$. The four an male professional skaters speed was $17{\pm}1$ seclm/lap. Physiological parameters were skin temperature at 4 body points (chest, upper arm, thigh, leg) and clothing temperature at chest was measured every 15 second. Experiment protocol was as follows: resting before skating (5 min.), skating (5 min.), and resting after skating (10 min.). The results were as follows; The mean skin temperature by fabrics shows b > a > d > c. The mean skin temperature began to decline little by little as soon as the subjects entered the indoor ice rink. After they rested for five minutes, they started skating and the mean skin temperature declined widely. After skating, the mean skin temperature increased step by step. It maintained the similar temperature. The value of skin temperature at body points shows Leg > Chest > Upper arm > Thigh. Because of the characteristics of skating uniforms, the skin temperature of the leg is the highest. The skating uniform was designed to have a protective portion in the leg. The chest produces the highest temperature in the body. The comparison of difference values in skin temperature show Thigh > Upper arm > Chest > Leg. While skating in a cold atmosphere, the largest difference value is clothing temperature. The clothing temperature is lower than the skin temperature during skating. The difference value of clothing temperature is larger than the skin temperature of the chest.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제44권1호
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• pp.84-95
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• 2020

Wearing ease is a critical factor when designing special uniforms such as flight pilot's garment and should reflect occupational properties for better performance. This study measured skin surface on 31 areas in seven postures that refer to the pilot's occupational postures as well as made six prediction models including linear mixed model (LMM) for each body part to find the best fit model. Skin surface measured from 3D body scanned images of 11 male pilot participants. There were significantly positive and negative changes in various areas from standing posture (P1) to dynamic postures (P2-P7). Six models were designed in various compositions using stature and chest circumference as fixed effects and subject and posture as random effects. The best models were linear mixed models with one fixed effect (chest circumference or stature, varies with body parts) and two random effects (subject and posture). The results of this study provide reference data to set wearing ease for pilot's garment and suggests a new methodology in this research area, but verifying the effect of diverse independent variables is left for future studies.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권8호
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• pp.1178-1187
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to conduct a questionnaire survey on the actual conditions of the working uniform and protective equipment put on by street cleaners, then to identify their inconvenience and problems and to draw solutions to improve them, and finally to design a spring-and-autumn street cleaner uniform which has enhanced functionalities such as motional flexibility, safety and soil proof. The questionnaire survey of this study was done by street cleaners who were in charge of street cleaning and collecting the recyclable waste. The result of this study, easily worn-out parts of the working clothing were the sleeve hems and the front part on the upper uniform, and the trouser hems and zipper on the lower uniform. Easily soiled parts were the sleeve hems, parts of arm on the upper uniform, and the trouser hems and knee parts on the lower uniform. Based on the results of the questionnaire survey, the sample uniforms were designed in consideration of material, design and pattern. A soil-proof material was used for easily soiled parts such as sleeve hems, knee parts and trouser hems. Reflective material was applied to the parts such as chest, back and the side lines of sleeves and trousers to raise visibility in working and to ensure safety. A crease was given to each side of the back. The height of sleeve cap was lowered to lift the motional flexibility of back and arm parts. Darts were applied to elbow and knee parts for a three-dimensional design. Gussets were inserted in the thigh part to give it activity. Then quantitative evaluation and a sensory evaluation, which was composed of outward appearance, motional flexibility and fitness for field operation, were conducted. According to these evaluations, the sample uniform was found to be more satisfactory than current uniform.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제43권5호
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• pp.235-248
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• 2005

The objective of the study was to design a Battle Dress Uniform(BDU with improved motional flexibility, body fit, and protectiveness to cope with the special operational environment of the subjects. For this purpose, the researcher conducted a questionnaire survey on 92 male members of Special Weapon Attack Team(SWAT units in a former study, and based on the results of the survey, made the two-piece and one- piece BDU samples to overcome the identified problems and inconveniences. The sample uniforms were designed ergonomically from five aspects. Subsequentlv, the new BDU was compared with the current operational uniform in terms of outward appearance(design and fit), motional flexibility, and suitability for field activities. The samples were evaluated by 5 SWAT members as subjects and 8 graduate school students majoring in clothing and textiles as experts. According to the results, the two-piece and one-piece samples gained higher scores than the existing operational uniform in terms of outward appearance(design and fitness) and motional flexibility, and the one-piece sample was preferred with regard to fit when worn by the subjects with their full kit for field operations. That is, the one-piece sample appeared to be more suited to the special work environment of SWAT and to be more functional in terms of ease of putting on and taking off, motional flexibility, body fit and protectiveness than the current operational uniform(two-piece type).

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제44권7호
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• pp.63-72
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to survey the wearing practices and problems in the working uniform for volunteer fire brigade members and then to develop its design with a improved movement adaptability, physical suitability, ease for equipment accommodation, functionality, convenience and fit. Based on the questionnaire, we have made a testing uniform for volunteer fire brigade members first. Through a subjective analysis for functionality and apparence, we suggested a final design. The final design includes the following elements: 1. It was a two-piece style composed of a jumper and trousers with the upper garments pulled out. Raglan sleeves were used to increase arm's movement scope. Pleats and velcro tapes were attached along the base hem of sleeves to prevent heat transmission. 2. Various types of pockets were attached to secure enough space for keeping things. 3. In trousers, spare space was given at the buttock area with rubber string inserted only at selected part of side lines, and knee pads were attached to prevent wearing out.