• 복식문화연구
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• 제28권4호
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• pp.544-561
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• 2020

Goldwork embroidery is the art of embroidery using metal threads. As well as being used as a decorative element of religious clothing, flags, performing costumes, uniforms, and badges, goldwork embroidery is also used in many current designer collections. Therefore, this study aimed to examine the techniques and materials of goldwork embroidery and the formative characteristics and socio-cultural values of goldwork embroidery from its beginning to the early 20th century. For this study, various embroidery works, costumes, museum portraits, and literature were analyzed. The results are as follows. First, the transition of goldwork embroidery was divided into 4 categories: The beginning of goldwork embroidery; the golden age of goldwork embroidery; the maturity of goldwork embroidery; and various goldwork embroidery (depending on the materials used, usage, and design features). The earliest extant example is the "Maaseik fragments" in Belgium dating from the late 8th to early 9th centuries. Until the 15th century, the Church was the most important patron of goldwork embroidery; however, after the 15th century, goldwork embroidery was produced on costumes. Second, the social-cultural values of goldwork embroidery (based on transition and formative features) were classified as expression of divinity, instrument of governance, desire to be approved, and tools of self-expression. Through this study, it is evident that there have been many advances in both technique and technology over time. Furthermore, patterns of usage and social-cultural values of goldwork embroidery have changed significantly.

• 한국치위생학회지
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.517-523
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• 2016

Objectives: The purpose of the study is to investigate the uniform management of the dental hygienists in Korea. Methods: The study was carried out by direct telephone survey to dental gygienists in Gangneung, Wonju, and Seongnam from March 15 to April 10, 2015. The subjects were seventy dental clinics by random sampling. The questionnaire consisted of general characteristics of the subjects(4 items), infection control education(3 items), and infection control activity(9 items). Cronbach's alpha was 0.781 in the study. After informed consent from the dental hygienists, the survey was done by telephone. Data were analyzed by SPSS 21.0 program. Results: The dental hygienists taking infection control education tended to wash the uniforms twice a week (${\chi}^2$=15.95, p<001). The majority of the dental hygienists thought that the best washing place of uniform would be dental clinics than any other place (${\chi}^2$=38.76, p<001). Conclusions: It is very important to implement the infection control education for the dental hygienists. The establishment of standard guideline for infection control of the uniform washing will enhance the dental service quality and satisfaction of the dental service consumers.

• 복식
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• 제66권6호
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• pp.46-66
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• 2016

This thesis aims to analyze the costume changes according to the ideological transition through the portraits of Napoleon Bonaparte. This study selected 32 color pictures of Napoleon, which was taken during his time as a general to his ascension as Emperor (1785-1815). The study qualitatively analyzed the traits and costume elements in view of the items, color and ornaments of the costume, while studying the effects of the ideological transition. The costumes of Napoleon were categorized into three parts: general, governor and Emperor. Firstly, Napoleon most frequently wore the navy uniforms when taking the portraits as a general. The uniform gave Napoleon the image of strength, youth and intelligence, which reflected the ideology of enlightenment. Secondly, the red-colored administrator uniform, combined with a military coat with culotte, was worn to make the governor look intelligent, which would ascribe to the ideological demand of the enlightenment. Lastly, his portraits as emperor showed him in long white tunica, combined with red-colored coronation cape ornamented with embroidery, ermine fur, and the crown of laurel. This costume denoted both the enlightenment and also the neoclassical trend aspiring for the return to the Greek and Roman era. In this way, the portrait of Napoleon might be expected to reflect the periodical change of the ideology through describing the transition of the costumes. It might be evident that his image of the strong general changed to that of an intelligent governor, which was in demand when the enlightenment idea became popular. When Napoleon became the emperor, his image changed into that of a Roman emperor, which implies that neoclassical ideas were used as source of influence.

• 복식
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• 제66권6호
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• pp.122-134
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• 2016

With the advent of the new political regime of Jong Un Kim, North Korea is undergoing many changes, with its main motivation being economic growth. This study aims to identify the changes in clothing in North Korea under the new political climate. The research conducted a review on literature and empirical study. For literature review, books and papers from studies related to North Korea have been reviewed. For the empirical part, interviews with diverse class of North Korean refugees including Hanawon, videos on TV, 1,100 pictures and related articles from newspapers and Internet have been collected. Through this analysis, the study found that subtle changes in North Korean fashion started prior to the Jong Un Kim's regime, but has become full-blown since Kim's assumption of power. This proves that the country is not yet independent from its political situation. The results are as follows: First, the appearance of Ri Sol-ju has liberalized the fashion concept of North Korean women, and the popularity of her trademark style has actually contributed to a more amicable image for Kim. Second, the "Hallyu" style has spread to North Korea through various channels, and has started new trends. Third, the diversification of fashion styles has been greatly accelerated in accordance with the expansion of market, resulting from the economic revitalization policy. Last of all, Jong Un Kim's direct orders concerning fashion have resulted in some significant changes. The sophisticated uniforms of flight attendants and the development of luxury cosmetics being prime examples. As studies on this subject are extremely rare, this research is significant to identify the changes on the clothing culture under Jong Un Kim's regime, and to present an expanded view, as the two countries work towards an united Korea.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.166-179
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• 2016

The purpose of this study was to identify images of saleswomen by uniform and body type and to determine if the images have an effect on customer satisfaction and revisiting intention. This study was conducted between February 10th and February 23rd 2015, using a questionnaire to collect data from 608 adults from Seoul, Deajeon, and Chungnam Province. A $2{\times}2$ (body $type{\times}clothes$) factorial experimental design was used. Frequency, factor, and reliability analysis, analysis of variance, one-way ANOVA, Tukey test, and multiple regression analysis methods were used to analyze data. The study results were as follows: First, images of saleswomen with different uniform and body types were classified based on the following three factors: professionalism, kindness and attractiveness. Second, the saleswomen's uniforms had significant impact on perceived attractiveness, with women who wore skirt suits being identified as more attractive than women with pant suits. The saleswomen's body types had significant effect on professionalism, kindness and attractiveness. Women with average body types were perceived positively in terms of professionalism and attractiveness, whilst women with large body types were perceived positively in terms of kindness. Third, the combination of uniform and body type had a significant effect on perceived professionalism. Women with average body types wearing pant suits were perceived to have high degree of professionalism and women with large body types wearing skirt suits were evaluated to have high professionalism. Fourth, the images described as attractive and kind for both uniform and body type had a positive influences on customer satisfaction and revisiting intention.

• 복식
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• 제56권7호
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• pp.42-53
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• 2006

The purpose of this research is to study doll's symbolism representing our social culture and the characteristics of clothing design. The ball joint doll was selected, that are pretty much resembled to human body in terms of facial expression, body proportion, joint movement, etc. Results of research are summarized as follows: the ball joint doll is indicated a doll whose joints are free to move with a round shaped joint, which originated by Yochilya simon, who adopted German Hans Bellmer's method.'rho ball joint doll, first, there appeared state of human isolation due to the material civilization and industrial revolution, and trend of adhering to one's own world made human possess dolls. Second, according to the doll play became a representing play culture among Kidult culture, dolls, that are resembled with human being, were recognized as personalized objects. Third, along of expanding digital culture that makes easy to exchange information via Internet, so, ball joint doll market is growing fast, for which various levels of mania are being formed. Take a look at the doll fashion in modern society. In accordance to form of Look, it is largely categorized Young Casual look, Office look, Ethnic look and Military look. When take a look at design specialty, young casual look was presented as a comfortable silhouette and also made of elastic materials and expressed vivid bright tones. Office look image was expressed as a suit of jacket with skirt, and cotton wool polyester materials and acro-matic colors. Ethnic look was represented by Japanese traditional dress and Chinese traditional clothing. The Military look was generally emphasized army uniforms of straight silhouette and shoulder straps.

• 복식
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• 제56권7호
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• pp.1-17
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• 2006

This study purposed to examine Korean people's white clothes custom historically and to explain the aesthetic consciousness latent in the custom. Korean people preferred white clothes, even up to foreigners called them White-clad folk. Not only as in old historical literatures, but also in Soo-suh, Shin-Dang-suh including Sam-Kuk-Ji in China, white clothes were a real symbol to Korean people, ranging chronically far back to the age of ancient tribal countries, Sam-Kuk Period through Koryo Dynasty and even to modern age near the end of Chosun Dynasty, wearing with pleasure regardless of age, sex or social position. Even King himself in Koryo Dynasty is said to have worn white clothes when he was out of official hours. During the Koryo and Chosun Dynasty, white clothes were sometimes prohibited for various reasons including conflicts with the theories of yin-yang and the five elements but such regulations were not effective. To Korean people, white clothes were ordinary people's everyday dress as well as noble people's plain suits, saints' uniforms with religious meanings, ceremonial costumes, funeral garments, etc. The various uses show that white clothes have been worn by many people. The unique custom that a People have worn white clothes consistently for such a long time may contain very deep symbolic meanings representing the people's sentiments and spirits. The present study understood that the meanings come from religious sacredness, magical wish for brightness, the pursuit of purity originating from the people's national traits, assimilation with nature and the will to attain whole ascetic personality. Aesthetic attitudes based on aesthetic values summed up as sacredness, brightness, purity, assimilation with nature, asceticism, etc. are the aesthetic consciousness pursued by Koreans through their white clothes. For Koreans, white color is the origin of their color sense coming from primitive religions such as worshipping the sun and the heaven. In this way, Korean people's preference for white clothes began with primitive religions, was mixed with various social, cultural and religious influences and finally was settled as their durable spirit, symbol and beauty.

• 복식
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• 제50권
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• pp.119-128
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• 2000

this study was designed to discuss the pattern of Confucian funeral ceremony and its costumes in Chosun dynasty thereby exploring the ideas and symbolic meanings expressed on them. 1. Male's official mourning dresses were composed of Choieui symbolizing sadness Choisang(최상), Dukun Sangkwan Sujil Yojil Kyodai and mourning stick Female's official mourning dresses consisted of Daersoojangkon and Kaedoo which were of simple kinds as compared to those of males. Duration of wearing mourning dreses was the longest to the death of father husband and eldest son The forms of mouring dresses were one and the same irrespective of the noble and the mean which expressed the sameness of the sorrow full of losting blood relative. Symbol expressed on funeral ceremony costumes were something like "eldestson-oriented" "male-centered" "distinction of the sexes" and "principle of yin and yang" to reinforce vitality to the costumes. 2. In the other funeral ceremony costumes in a royal fami8ly were those Euijangsu in red and blue colors Yeosakon in purple and white colors. Bandsman in Danryung and Guards in Kukonbok Changeui and Hoeui with five colors while the generally of people woere white dress in the ceremony Hoeui with five colors symbolized the principle of Yin and Yang costumes of military uniforms the dignity of the royal family: white dresses grife symbolizing the dignity of a royal family and Confucian sorrow as well 3. Unlike the mouring dresses there were great differences relative to socio-ecpmpomic status in funeral goods for dercoration Soyeo and daeyeo Among the goods the instrument to drive out evil spirites symbolized shamanism the distinction of Soyeo and Daeyeo separation of body and soul; the sculpture of the Lord of Hades and messenger philosophy of buddhistic netherworld: the engraving of blue and yellow dragons in bier and Juksanma the principles of Yin and Yang : elaborate burial accesaries realistic viewpoint of the hereafter.

• 복식
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• 제59권6호
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• pp.82-93
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• 2009

This study is considered about the Taekwondo(跆拳道) uniform classified by period and analyzed the current Taekwondo uniform. And founded on this contents, new designs of uniform, that a functional side are considered and can symb이ize the identity of Taekwondo, are presented through this study. Ancient times to the present time, the Taekwondo uniform classified into three types according to 'Period of putting on our nation's costume'(three kingdoms${\sim}$Joseon(朝鮮) times), 'Period of confusion on uniform'(Japan's colonial rule of Korea${\sim}$-the early 1970s), 'Period of the settlement on official uniform'(the late 1970s-the present time). And besides, the shape of our nation's costume in ancient times is succeeded until Joseon times and this basic style becomes the outset on the current Taekwondo uniform. The designed uniforms are connoted the notion of the aesthetic appreciation in Korean traditional costume, that is, a symbolic, dignified, moderate appreciation with the consideration of a functional side for Taekwondo. And the contents on the presented designs are classified into 'shape, pattern, color'. First, these designs that are adapted the shape of Baji(바지) Jeogori(저고리)-belt, which have symbolized our nation's costume, and the shape of Bacja(배자) had used in Joseon times, are connoted a 'traditional appreciation with functional side'. Second, these designs, which are adapted the patterns of the active image(a bugbear, flying horse, tiger for embroidered patches, Taegeuk(太極)) in a modern style, express a 'symbolic, dignified appreciation'. Third, these designs are well-matched a black and white color with multicolored stripes(saekddong, 색동), and its ones are connoted a 'moderate and symbolic appreciation'.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제38권1호
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• pp.19-32
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• 2014

The Taekwondo uniform has remained consistent since it was officially designed in a V-neck form in 1976. Taekwondo is a martial art that emphasizes social etiquette; therefore, it is necessary to dress in a uniform that reflects Korean traditions and ancient oriental philosophy. However, the current official uniform has limitations in endowing traditionality and many usability problems. Thus, recognizing the problems raised with the uniform, the Kukkiwon (World Taekwondo Headquarters) developed a new style official uniform in 2011. This study is to endow traditional meaning to a new style uniform and proposes some design modifications that can convey a more traditional adequacy. The development of the new official uniform began with a specific plan for change from the existing uniform, this study as subsequent work is significant in that its endowment of symbolism and modification proposal is for the actual execution and global dissemination of traditional Taekwondo culture. The results of this study are as follows. First, we can endow Korea's traditional historicity and symbolism to the new uniform in form and colors. All contents of the design (in which the front side is open, the top is adjusted rightward, the rear length is shorter than the front length, comfort provided by side vents, dual collars for children's uniforms, and a belt) are adapted from the Korean traditional costume. Consequently, historicity can be endowed to the uniform. It is also confirmed that the traditional oriental philosophy including heaven and earth (天地), Yin-Yang (陰陽), and Five Elements (五行) can be endowed in the use of colors. Second, in order to project deeper historicity and symbolism to the form of the new uniform, this study proposes design modifications based on the selection as an item of Simui (深衣), a type of traditional clothing that contains a high symbolism similar to the Taekwondo uniform. It proposes giving shape to the practice of manners, the righteous life, and the straightforward mind by modifying the design of the uniform in the fish belly part of the sleeves, collars, back stitches, and side seams.