• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.18 no.1
• /
• pp.120-129
• /
• 2016

This study aimed to develop an optimal sizing system and a draping pattern for hip protector based on an analysis of anthropometric characteristics of Korean older women. A hip protector is a specialized form of pants or underwear containing pads along the outside of each hip. The 3D body scan data of Korean older women were analyzed to identify their anthropometric characteristics and a four-size system with 93% of population accommodation was developed by clustering analysis based on key dimensions derived from factor analysis. The sizing system consists of small/short, large/short, small/tall, and large/tall. A 3D physical model and hip pads were fabricated; then, a hip protector was draped on the 3D model and hip pads. The sizing system of hip protector was analyzed in terms of size and shape and a draping pattern was compared on back center, back side, front side, front center and pad. Lastly, the pattern deformation and clothing pressure were analyzed using the virtual clothing system CLO. Virtual system have disadvantage of not to suggest the objective value. In the future research the wearing comfort and impact absorption of the hip protector needs to be tested and then a hip protector design will be finalized by considering the hip protector's size, material, comfort testing results, aesthetic appeal, protection effectiveness, and practical utility of everyday use.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.12 no.1
• /
• pp.31-37
• /
• 2010

The purpose of this study is to investigate the causes of clothes phenomenon of the ruling class women on the Heian period of Japan in the aspects of politics, economics, society, culture, and religion. The findings of the study are as follows. The main characteristics of the Heian period of Japan may include a rare sense of internationalism, low sense of nationalism, and frequent cases of political intrigue. However, noble culture, centered on royal court, was flourished and it enabled to develop sophisticated and graceful culture. During the Nara period and the Heian period (from $8^{th}$ to $12^{th}$ century), there were enormous changes in the clothes, starting from the mid $10^{th}$ century. The clothes of the ruling class in the Heian period underwent changes from the imitative clothes-imitating the clothes of the Tang age of China- to Japanesque clothes-adding the aesthetic consciousness of Japanese ruling class people. Particularly, the clothes of the ruling class women became massive, majestic, and decorative. The changed clothes had also features such as layered look, utilizing underwear as outer garments, using a wide variety of colors, and using hard and solid materials to make clothes. It can be concluded that the clothes of the ruling class people in the Heian period were affected by plural factors such as national and international political situation, economics, society, culture, and religion. The clothes were used by ruling class people as means of expressing their noble and sophisticated beauty, which led to produce humanistic beauty. The Heian period can be described as an era of the highest reach of humanity.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.2 no.3
• /
• pp.98-108
• /
• 1998

The purpose of this study is to provide for the basic data useful to the effective production and marketing of the foundation garments befitting adult women's body shapes and preferences, and thereby, help them improve their apparel life. For this purpose, 563 Korean adult women aged between 20-59 were sampled to survey their recognition and actual wearing condition of foundation garments and positively identify the factors affecting the practices and thereupon, determine the correlations among them by age group. Data is processed by a computer (SAS) and analyzed by using frequency, percentage, ${\chi}^2$-test, ANOVA, Duncan-test. The main results of this study are as follows; 1. The most of the adult women were aware of the basic underwear terminologies and the absolute majority of them wore brassieres, while a half of them used the girdles. In contrast, only a small portion of them wore body suites or waste-nippers and the absolute minority of them had garterbelts. 2. The use of the foundations depended much on users' ages or seasons. They had begun to wear brassieres and girdles at their age of 15 on average, and bodysuites, waist-nippers or garterbelts around their age of 20 depending on their individual needs. 3. The adult women had 3-6 brassieres and 2-3 girdles on average, but only a minority of them owned one or two body suites, waist-nippers or garterbelts. They had ever used the functional foundations (11.5%) or imported foundations (35.9%), It has been found through this study that adult women's recognition and actual wearing condition of their foundation garments differ by age group, which may well suggest that foundation production need to take such age-wise practices into consideration in setting up their foundation production and marketing strategies.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.16 no.2
• /
• pp.263-277
• /
• 2008

In picture bible, the picture is helpful for showing story more vividly and specifically and it is helpful for finding the meaning of bible hidden behind familiarity. It plays the role of the most powerful testimony and expression, with which human provides himself. The purpose of study was to grasp the relation among historical background of the middle age, human's characteristic and symbolic color by considering the fact that the costume expressed in Maciejowski Bible, which is a picture bible of the middle age and observing type, color and decoration of costume. Among 46 folios organizing Maciejowski Bible, 129 pictures explaining the Book of Genesis, the Book of Exodus, the Book of Leviticus, the Book of Numbers, the Book of Deuteronomy, the Book of Joshua and the Book of Judges, which belong to the former 400 years of the old Testament, were analyzed for people's costumes. The pictures shown in Maciejowski Bible portrays object, costume and behavior on the background of France of the 13th century so we can find out the precious natures of middle age's costume, weapon and armor. Especially, the portrait about finger armor of chain mail attached in hauberk becomes the outstanding evidence that can encroach the discussion over whether it was used in the end of 1300s. Regarding costumes of main characters, they wore chemise and braies as underwear, wore tunic or cotte having various lengths from the length reaching knee to the length reaching 8round as basic costume and wore mantle with different-colored lining and hose with various colors. In the war picture, we can see hauberk made with chain mail and cyclas with long slit, which was worn over hauberk, barrel helmet, norman helmet and steel school cap. Regarding cap. man usually wore coif, beret, shade-shaped cap, straw hat and woman wore the decoration using veil and hairlace and used the method to wrap whole hair with net. As the colors used in the costume of the picture bible, scarlet, blue, green and brown were usually used in order. They usually wore costumes decorated splendidly with the colors haying hish brightness and chroma.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.21 no.4
• /
• pp.480-487
• /
• 2019

This study used 3D technology to develop a multi-functional sports brassiere with increased comfort and fit that can be worn as a base layer during exercise or as underwear. A 75A size industrial lingerie figure was used to develop a standard pattern. 3D tools for scanning and pattern making, such as Vivid 910, Geomagic Design X, 2C-AN and Yuka CAD were used. The sports brassiere was designed as a tank top style with dual structure and linings attached to a pad utilized with a sport brassiere mold cup. 3D outer and lining's pattern was differently developed in consideration of the body's curvature with pad's shape and structure. Shoulder and neck part reduction rates were adjusted to increase the neck areas fit that considered the nude pattern's structure due to uncomfortableness felt by wearers who were uncomfortable with the neck areas fit on existing brand products. The reduction rate was also set differently on each part. For example, the reduction rate on outer side panel was set strongly to increase the breast's volume. Two products, developed by a 3D sports brassiere and previously released product, were worn on 8 subjects in their 20's to evaluate fit, comfort, and purchase preferences. The evaluation proved that newly developed 3D products were superior to comparative products. The results of the clothing pressure measurement indicate that the newly developed sports brassiere's front part had less pressure on upper bust and shoulder areas compared to comparative products as well as showed less pressure on the back side, which shows improved wearing comfort compared to comparative products.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
• /
• v.27 no.2
• /
• pp.245-263
• /
• 2016

This study was conducted to investigate the thermoregulatory behavior of young males in terms of self-identified thermal tolerance. We recruited 436 male students from Seoul ($24.0{\pm}4.6yr$ in age, $175.3{\pm}5.5cm$ in height, $70.1{\pm}10.6kg$ in body mass, and $23.0{\pm}2.7$ in BMI) in accordance with four types of self-identified thermal tolerance: 1) tolerable of both cold and heat, BCH (N=15); 2) heat tolerable only, HTO (N=118); 3) cold tolerable only, CTO (N=162); and 4) neither cold nor heat tolerable, NCH (N=141). The questionnaire consisted of 55 questions regarding preference to cold or heat environment, seasonal thermoregulatory behaviors including clothing habits, seasonal sleeping environments, health care/physical fitness, and anthropometric items. The results showed that: 1) BCH preferred less auxiliary heating devices, gloves/hats, or thermal underwear in winter and had very few experiences with cold/heat injuries or catching a cold, whereas NCH showed the opposite behavior and experiences as BCH; 2) thermoregulatory behaviors were not symmetrical between summer and winter. Most male students preferred cold beverage/foods to using cooling devices to lower body temperature in summer, whereas auxiliary heating devices were preferred to warm beverage/foods to maintain body temperature in winter; 3) thermoregulatory behaviors of NCH had more items in common with HTO than CTO, while the behaviors of BCH were more closely related to CTO than the behaviors of BCH were more closely related to CTO than HTO. Overall, we confirmed that thermoregulatory behaviors were apparently classified by self-identified thermal tolerance, and such behaviors could be adjusted by improving cold or heat tolerance.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.42 no.1
• /
• pp.172-182
• /
• 2018

The purpose of the present study was to quantify the thermal insulation of garments by item and examine factors influencing clothing insulation. A total of 769 garments in clo unit were collected and classified into 12 categories: blouses/shirts (95 items, BS), T-shirts/sweaters (62 items, TS), vest (23 items, VT), cardigans (23 items, CD), jackets/coats (75 items, JC), sport outerwear (including padding jackets)(48 items, SO), trousers (23 items, TR), skirts (56 items, SK), dresses (28 items, DS), underwear (150 items, UW), sleepwear (50 items, SW), and personal protective clothing (59 items, PPC). The results showed that clothing insulation was $0.21{\pm}0.01clo$ for the BS, $0.22{\pm}0.01clo$ for TS, $0.12{\pm}0.00clo$ for VT, $0.23{\pm}0.02clo$ for CD, $0.40{\pm}0.02clo$ for JC, $0.49{\pm}0.03clo$ for SO, $0.21{\pm}0.01clo$ for TR, $0.18{\pm}0.01clo$ for SK, $0.34{\pm}0.03clo$ for DS, $0.09{\pm}0.01clo$ for UW, $0.42{\pm}0.03clo$ for SW, and $0.56{\pm}0.03clo$ for PPC (p<.001). The most influential factors among the seven factors for thermal insulation of garments were clothing weight and covering area; however, the explanatory powers of two factors differed according to clothing categories. The covering area had more significant impact on clothing insulation in cardigans, jackets/coats, trousers, and dresses than clothing weight. Covering areas and clothing weight were the most influential factors in the following categories: blouses/shirt, T-shirts/sweaters, skirts, sleepwear and personal protective clothing. The garment weight was the most important factor for thermal insulation for the sport outerwear.

• Journal of Global Scholars of Marketing Science
• /
• v.20 no.1
• /
• pp.15-26
• /
• 2010

Due to the globalization across various industries and cultural trade among many countries, oriental concepts have been attracting world’s attentions. In fashion industry, one's traditional culture is often developed as fashion theme for designers' creation and became strong strategies to stand out among competitors. Because of the increase of preferences for oriental images, opportunities abound to introduce traditional fashion goods and expand culture based business to global fashion markets. However, global fashion brands that include Korean traditional culture are yet to be developed. In order to develop a global fashion brand with Korean taste, it is very important for native citizen to accept their own culture in domestic apparel market prior to expansion into foreign market. Loungewear is evaluated to be appropriate for adopting Korean traditional details into clothing since this wardrobe category embraces various purposes which will easily lead to natural adaptation and wide spread use. Also, this market is seeing an increased demand for multipurpose wardrobes and fashionable underwear (Park et al. 2009). Despite rapid growth in the loungewear market, specific studies of loungewear is rare; and among research on developing modernized-traditional clothing, fashion items and brands do not always include the loungewear category. Therefore, this study investigated the Korean loungewear market and studied consumer evaluation toward loungewear with Korean traditional fashion design elements. Relationship among antecedents of purchase intention for Korean traditional fashion design elements were analyzed and compared between lifestyle groups for consumer targeting purposes. Product quality, retail service quality, perceived value, and preference on loungewear with Korean traditional design elements were chosen as antecedents of purchase intention and a structural equation model was designed to examine their relationship as well as their influence on purchase intention. Product quality and retail service quality among marketing mixes were employed as factors affecting preference and perceived value of loungewear with Korean traditional fashion design elements. Also effects of preference and perceived value on purchase intention were examined through the same model. A total of 357 self-administered questionnaires were completed by female consumers via web survey system. A questionnaire was developed to measure samples' lifestyle, product and retail service quality as purchasing criteria, perceived value, preference and purchase intention of loungewear with Korean traditional fashion design elements. Also, loungewear purchasing and usage behavior were asked as well in order to examine Korean loungewear market status. Data was analyzed through descriptive analysis, factor analysis, cluster analysis, ANOVA and structural equation model was tested via AMOS 7.0. As for the result of Korean loungewear market status investigation, loungewear was purchased by most of the consumers in our sample. Loungewear is currently recognized as clothes that are worn at home and consumers are showing comparably low involvement toward loungewear. Most of consumers in this study purchase loungewear only two to three times a year and they spend less than US$10. A total of 12 items and four factors of loungewear consumer lifestyle were found: traditional value oriented lifestyle, brand-affected lifestyle, pursuit of leisure lifestyle, and health oriented lifestyle. Drawing on lifestyle factors, loungewear consumers were classified into two groups; Well-being and Conservative. Relationships among constructs of purchasing behavior related to loungewear with Korean traditional fashion design elements were estimated. Preference and perceived value of loungewear were affected by both product quality and retail service quality. This study proved that high qualities in product and retail service develop positive preference toward loungewear. Perceived value and preference of loungewear positively influenced purchase intention. The results indicated that high preference and perceived value of loungewear with Korean traditional fashion design elements strengthen purchase intention and proved importance of developing preference and elevate perceived value in order to make sales. In a model comparison between two lifestyle groups: Well-being and Conservative lifestyle groups, results showed that product quality and retail service quality had positive influences on both preference and perceived value in case of Well-being group. However, for Conservative group, only retail service quality had a positive effect on preference and its influence to purchase intention. Since Well-being group showed more significant influence on purchase intention, loungewear brands with Korean traditional fashion design elements may want to focus on characteristics of Well-being group. However, Conservative group's relationship between preference and purchase intention of loungewear with Korean traditional fashion design elements was stronger, so that loungewear brands with Korean traditional fashion design elements should focus on creating conservative consumers' positive preference toward loungewear. The results offered information on Korean loungewear consumers' lifestyle and provided useful information for fashion brands that are planning to enter Korean loungewear market, particularly targeting female consumers similar to the sample of the present study. This study offers strategic and marketing insight for loungewear brands and also for fashion brands that are planning to create highly value-added fashion brands with Korean traditional fashion design elements. Considering different types of lifestyle groups that are associated with loungewear or traditional fashion goods, brand managers and marketers can use the results of this paper as a reference to positioning, targeting and marketing strategy buildings.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
• /
• v.13 no.1
• /
• pp.35-47
• /
• 2013

We know that humans are able to live comfortably when there is a balance between the living environment that surrounds us and us. Clothing, one of the necessities of life, serves a dual purpose of functioning as protection for the body as well as providing visual satisfaction, and so is the most effective bonding mechanism. A different type of comfort that has been provided through industrialization and advancements in technology has resulted in pollution problems in the environment, and it has reached a point of seriously thinking about its effects. The biggest problems in environmental pollution are air pollution and waste disposal, and something that cannot be ignored is that environmental hormones and harmful heavy metals have been discovered in the synthetic dyes used in the clothing product, and not only are they harmful to the body, but they also have adverse effects on skin allergies such as atopic dermatitis. Its effects on clothing, especially underwear and baby products, can become a serious issue. The use of natural vegetable dye can be considered the basis for the traditional Korean dyeing process, however not all natural dyeing process can be thought of as traditional Korean dyeing. This is because natural dyeing used to be the most common method of dyeing before synthetic dyes came along and became the dye of choice for most clothing. Natural dyes are beneficial to the body, and the nature colors, achieved from the natural materials, relieve eye strains as well as have a healing effect for people who are suffering from psychological instability such as stress. However, the use of mordant in order to increase the fastness and get better color effects can lead to even more damage to the environment, and it cannot be a dyeing method that is good for the body. Traditional natural dyeing is different from regular natural dyeing because it uses colors that the Korean people can identify with and applies specific methods in order to achieve those colors. Even though experimental study with dyestuff and practical use of the dyeing methods for traditional Korean dyeing has been started(Soh, H., 1983) and has been ongoing, it is still not easy for regular people to use the method on their own. At the present time, natural dye materials are getting made and sold more than ever, but there is a lot of confusion among consumers regarding the difference between traditional Korean dyeing and natural dyeing, as companies are using the two terms interchangeably to market their natural dye products. So getting a better understanding of the characteristics of traditional Korean dyeing and traditional colors should be considered first priority at this time. The purpose of this thesis is to study the traditional Korean view of color, which developed the culture of traditional dyeing in Korea, and the characteristics of traditional Korean dyeing, a method that pursued achieving Korea's color through natural dyeing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.57 no.3 s.112
• /
• pp.37-52
• /
• 2007

Dan(緞) is satin damask. It was a newly popularized fabrics in the Joseon Period and is one of main traditional fabrics at present. The purpose of this study is to suggest a theoretical basis to name Dan(緞) remains properly by comparing and analyzing the name, pattern, usage, feature, length and width, value of Dan(緞) recorded on documents made at the end of the Joseon Period. The results of this study are as follows. 1. The kinds of Dan(緞) recorded on documents made at the end of the Joseon Period are various. Among fabrics named Dan(緞), were not only silk fabrics but also cotton fabrics, woolen fabrics, mixture fabrics with silk and cotton, and mixture fabrics with cotton and wool. 2. Some newly revealed patterns in the case of Dan(緞) are as follows. The shape of Byeolmun(別紋) is assumed to have originated from that of character symbolizing the Royal Family and developed into a variety of circular ones of dragon, phoenix, flower, or character. O-ho-ro-mun(五葫蘆紋) was five-gourd-shaped patterns that form a circle, turning their narrow mouth to the center, and vines between each two gourds. 3. When considering the usages of Dan(緞), Dan(緞) was used for various detailed usages according to their kinds. But it was't mostly used for underwear. 4. Features have been examined are Godan(庫緞), Mobondan(模本緞), Handan(漢緞), Daedan(大緞), Yangdan(洋緞), Waedan(倭緞), and Geumdan(錦緞). 5. The length and the width of 1 Pil(疋) silk fabrics are various. It is normal for the width being different, but for 1 Pil(疋)'s length being different is very unusual. The width of Dan (緞) was about 47-76.20cm, it was wider than Ju(紬), Cho, Gyeon(絹), Sa(紗), Ra(羅) and Reung(綾). 6. As for the value of each fabric per $10,000cm^2$, Dan(緞) was the most valuable silks at that time. Among them the most valuable Dan(緞) was Udan(羽緞).