• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.217-227
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• 1998

Male underclothing during this period preserved in the shirt its former qualities though somewhat diminished. The habit of leaving much of the waist coat unbuttoned to display the fine quality of the shirt was more than evidence of social ranks : it appears to have had its attractions to the other sex. But in other respects man's underclothing was sinking into obscurity. This was due, in a great measure, to the closer fit of his suit, designed to exhibit the shape of his legs in breeches and stockings, leaving little opportunity for the display of garments beneath. With the latter part of the eighteenth century man's underclothing ceased to serve for sex attraction, a function on it has never regained, while continuing -in the shirt front and cuffs- to indicate class distinction, until, in modern times, that too has disappeared. The term 'smart' was coming into vogue to indicated the well-dressed man, and for at least a century after, the word implied tightfitting garments which, of necessity, reduced underclothing to a very subordinate function, so that only the shirt front survived for display purpose. Artificial calves was introduced by the Macaronis its purpose was to accenturate the captirating shapelines of the calf of the leg appearing below the tight breeches of the period.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.863-875
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to survey the clothing behavior, care and the fiber preferences of multi-cultural families living in Korea. The data was collected using questionnaire surveys based on pre-tests, and a main survey conducted in Seoul, Gyeonggi Province and Chungcheong Province. The 258 participants came from 151 multi-cultural families and 107 Korean families. The results of this study were as follows: First, Filipinos owned more clothes than the Chinese and bought clothes more frequently. The Filipinos spent 10,000~30,000 Korean won on all types of clothing. Each time, the Chinese spent more money when purchasing jackets. Second, when health was the greatest concern for underclothes, they chose cotton fiber as their preferred fiber. When beauty was of greatest concern for blouses they chose cotton. When beauty was of greatest concern for skirts and jackets they chose natural fibers such as silk, wool or linen. Filipinos preferred synthetic fibers because they are easy to care for, and the Chinese preferred natural fibers due to their beauty, especially for pants. Third, multi-cultural families laundered at home using only a washing machine. All fibers were laundered together into the washer without any sorting. This study can contribute to providing basic data for an understanding of the clothing behavior and laundry styles of multi-cultural families which may be useful data in the apparel market in Korea given the relative and direct changes relevant to various clothing cultures.

• 한국태양에너지학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2009.04a
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• pp.115-120
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• 2009

The studies for mechanical performance development have been examined to reduce energy consumption in building construction field. However, The energy consumption using in building for heating is impacted by not only system performance but also PMV particularly at temperature and clo. Most energy using in building part is mainly consumed for heating and cooling to keep comfort temperature. Heating energy consumption is bigger than cooling energy in Korea because of temperature difference in winter in comparison with summer at apartment building. This means that energy consumption can be changed by occupancy's comfort setting temperature in apartment building. This study evaluate actual comfort temperature range by clo and examined heating energy consumption by Esp-r and CO2 reduction possibility. The results show that keeping ASHRAE standards can reduce heating energy up to 23%; also, wearing underclothes with ASHRAE standard can reduce heating energy up to 47.8%. Option 4 showing Maximum CO2 emission reduction indicates that kerosene. LNG and electricity can reduce 1.5t, 1.7t, 2.46t respectively in comparison with option 2.

• Journal of the Korean Solar Energy Society
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• v.30 no.4
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• pp.49-54
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• 2010

Most energy using in building part is mainly consumed for heating and cooling to meet occupancy's comfort temperature. Generally, heating energy consumption show high value than cooling energy in Korea because of high temperature difference in winter season as compared with summer in apartment building. The efforts to develope mechanical performance have been studied to reduce energy consumption in building energy field until now. However, the energy consumption in building is impacted by not only system performance but also PMV particularly at temperature and Clo value. This means that energy consumption can be changed by occupancy's comfort setting temperature in apartment building. This study investigated the passibility of overheating in apartment building by occupant' slow Clo and its setting temperature from preceding research and then the heating energy consumption by setting temperature was calculated with ESP-r. The effects of heating energy and $CO_2$ reduction are also evaluated quantitatively with Clo value. The results showed that keeping ISO-7730 standards can reduce heating energy up to 21% in compared with option 2; also, wearing underclothes with ISO-7730 standard can considerably reduce heating energy consumption up to 50%. As compared with option 2, the reduction of $CO_2$ emission for option 3 showed 0.63TCO2 of kerosene, 0.49TCO2 of LNG and 1.09TCO2 of electricity. The option 4 can be reduced by 1.48TCO2 of kerosene, 1.16TCO2 of LNG and 2.57TCO2 of electricity respectively.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.62-75
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• 2020

In this study, clothing items recorded in Nappyemulmok (納幣物目) and Ugwimulmok (于歸物目) in the early 20th century were examined. These clothing items were recorded on the lists of goods for wedding gifts from the 1910s to the 1930s. A large quantity of these lists were organized into eight categories by analyzing the fabrics of each item of clothing. Representative fabrics used for skirts and Jeogori (such as Myeongju, 明紬) were used widely. Jeoksam was mostly made with ramie fabric. Pants mostly used cotton such as Dangmok, Mumyung, and calico, with some use of silk. Gojaengi mostly used cotton such as Dangmok, Mumyung, and calico, with some use of ramie. Danui (單衣) used silk fabrics such Pparinseu, Myeongju, and Gyoju for decorative features that were revealed when rolled up. Naeui (內衣) is believed to be the closest underclothes to the body, and Mumyung was mostly used. Dangmok and calico were used for the Yodae (腰帶) and fabrics such as silk, Nobangju, and JuhangNa were used for outdoor use. This type of categorization is significant, as it can be used as academic evidence to verify and reproduce the clothing of the time by identifying fabrics, colors, and characteristics of certain items of clothing. Lastly, it is expected that the analysis of clothing will provide theoretical data in the same way that movies, dramas, and museum exhibitions feature modern traditional weddings.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.10
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• pp.51-67
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• 2009

The study is about 'Dap-ho', a kind of men's coat in the early, and mid period of Joseon Dynasty. The study examined the kinds, color, and fabric of Dap-ho from "The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty". It also examined the characteristic, and the change of shape through excavated costume, and the period is limited until early 17th century. In "The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty", there is record of Dap-ho from King Sejong period to Gwang-hae-gun period. After 160 years, it appears again in King Young-jo period, and remains until King Soon-jong period. It was mentioned 168 times, from over 100 cases. There are 26 colors of Dap-ho from "The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty", and among them, green appears the most. Thin fabric, like Joo [紬], Sa[紗], and Cho[綃] was used often, and there are records of double layered, and cotton padded Dap-ho. The period when Dap-ho appears as excavated costume is almost the same as, "The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty" and disappears after the decease of Dae-ho Kang(1541-1624), and Sun-un Yun(1580~1628). After in this period, Dan-ryung, and Jik-ryung changes into double layered clothes, and Jik-ryung functioned as the underclothes of Dan-ryung, instead of Dap-ho. The excavated costumes of Hwak Kim(1572~1633), and Eung-hae Lee(1547~1626) proofs this. But Dap-ho was called 'Jun-bok', 'Dugree', Que-ja', and 'Dap-ho' until the later period of Joseon Dynasty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.39 no.4
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• pp.517-528
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• 2015

This study investigates actual wearing conditions and satisfaction based on qualitative research for rifle shooting clothing. The survey was conducted in two ways: in-depth interviews of 4 rifle shooting experts and subjective questionnaires for 18 active rifle shooters. They agreed on the importance of rifle shooting wear to minimize body sway and contribute to a balanced body posture. Most rifle shooters purchase made-to-measure rifle shooting clothing at a domestic store, but the clothing often needs extra adjustments due to an uncomfortable fit. Current fabric for rifle shooting clothing consists of a cotton canvas with a polyester mix; however, rifle shooters are unsatisfied with its stiffness in hot and wet conditions. Due to the specific fabric features, rifle shooting clothing should not be washed despite year-round use that represents another point of dissatisfaction. Rifle shooters always wear specially designed underclothes to improve shooting skills and comfort sensation. In conclusion, it is necessary to develop well fitted and comfort rifle shooting clothing that could improve shooters skills based upon this study.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.124-139
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to determine the aesthetic identity of modern eroticism fashion in which the energy of desire is maximized through the 'jouissance' and 'gaze' of the unconscious theory of Jacques Lacan. The research method derived aesthetic identity after examining jouissance and gaze deeply related to eroticism in Lacan's theory of the unconscious by analyzing data of domestic and foreign monographs and prior research. Case analysis was limited to 2000 S/S to 2022 F/W. Based on prior research, it was analyzed mainly on clothing with eroticism characteristics of 'exposure, close contact, see-through, the conversion of underclothes into outer garments'. Results of the study are as follows. First, eroticism, which can be linked to Lacan's type of 'jouissance' with multiple meanings as the generating point of eroticism, has manifested itself in voyeuristic eroticism, fatale eroticism, masochistic eroticism, surplus eroticism, and sacred eroticism. Second, as eyes of unconscious desire, visual expression characteristics of 'gaze' appeared as anamorphosis, trompe l'oeil, and dépaysement. The identity of eroticism derived from Lacan's jouissance and the perspective of the desire gaze was divided into voyeuristic desire to gaze, fatal desire to gaze, masochistic desire to gaze, surplus desire to gaze, and sacred desire to gaze. Results of this study will expand theoretical horizons of eroticist fashion with a new interpretation of eroticism by combining Lacan's desire as a repressed and alienated subject within the human unconscious with the art that expands it.