• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.203-212
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• 1998

During the Baroque Ages, the underclothes of both sexs developed a new significance. They ceased altogether to be merely utilitarian in function, and were exploited, to a striking degree, to indicate class distinction and sex attraction. Up to this period, as e have seen, the underclothes of men and women had very much the same significance, but from now on there is a division. The male garments are designed mainly to express social rank, the female mainly to attract. The man's shirt is an integral part of the visible costume of the find gentleman. After 1660, The fashion portrayed by the men, exhibiting the shirt extruding between the bottom of the waistcoat and the top of the breeches is still more remarkable and significant. The period is important in that it was the last time that the male attempted to give his under clothing an erotic suggestion. It was their experience that silk and linen garments next to the skin were less liable than wool to harbour lice. Until the era of physical cleanliness opened a century later, woollen undergarments were rarely worn. the nineteenth century accepted cleanliness as a sign of class distinction.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.261-271
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• 2000

In order to investigate the function and feature of western men's underclothes in the second half of the 19C, in this study, the historical changes of western men's underclothes are compared the first half of the 19C with the second half of the 19C. In the second half of the 19C, the useful function to ease for body was important. In the 1860's, for day-shirt, the tucked panels was disappeared and the front was pain. But the evening dress-shirt continued to show an expansive front tucked. Coloured shirts was used for country and sporting occasions. Ready-made underwear was used. In the 1870's, the plain breast was introduced and the Gladstone collar was used. Paper collars and dickeys were unfashionable. The drawers was composed a gusset at the back of the waistband. The dress of one generation was became the livery of the next. In the 1880's, a new feature was one stud and the use of pique for the breast. Coloured shirt was composed of stripes across the breast. In the 1890's, height of the collar steadily increased. The coat-shirt and regatta shirt became popular. The nice choice of shirt, collar and tie was a matter of supreme importance .The social status of the white shirt was further threatened by fancy coloured shirts. The mode of relaxation affected sports shirts. By the close of this period, both sexes accepted the hygienic rule of wool next the skin.

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 2000.09a
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• pp.84-85
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• 2000

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 2001.04a
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• pp.33-35
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• 2001

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.549-561
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• 2001

Modern fashion can be expressed as 'pursuit of cocktail effect', which means not unformed, not bounded by a rule, and mixed with various styles. Among them, the most outstanding trend of style is the'infra-syndrome'which designs underclothes like a ordinary wear, which has outstood since early 1980s. In 1990s, this syndrome made active progress and now facing 21th century, it becomes one of the big trends in fashion. Clothes of infra syndrome are one of attempts for freedom expressed by progressive designers who pursuit new and surrealistic design. The purpose of this study is to maximize the aesthetic beauty of'infra-syndrome'apparel centering on dresses of which designs are notable derived from underclothes. With the sewing techniques using the special facilities of the lingerie-manufacturing industry and making use of new material which can be used far lingerie wear, this research strives to expand new ideas in the lingerie industry as well as to contribute to promoting the dress culture by developing novel lines from a new form of dress and lingerie-foundations of dress suitable for human body.

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 2001.10a
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• pp.68-69
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• 2001

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.169-183
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• 2004

This study attempts to understand women's underwear culture in the Later Chosun Dynasty, by investigating the kinds and constructions of them, which formed bulky and puffed silhouette of the lower half of the body. In the middle 17th century in Chosun, Confucianism settled down as fundamental idea of society, while whole country achieved considerable economic growth. As a result for upperclass women, female virtues was demanded more than any other period in Chosun. On the other hand, lower-class women including Kisaengs, had more freedom on their clothing behaviors. According to the literature on women's dress institutions and restrictions of the extravagance, the use of kinds of high-quality silk and false hair was criticized, compared to women's clothes in China. From this, one can see the luxury and affluence of women's clothes at that time, which also reflected in luxurious underclothes. Also, the movement of class, by economic development, led to changes in the costumes of middle-to-lower class women, relaxing restrictions on clothes. Underclothes included Bosomband(가슴띠; long sashes for bosom to wrap), Sokjucksam(속적삼), and Sokchogori(속저고리; Korean blouse, worn under the chogori) for upper garment, and Darisokkok(다리속곳; basic underwear like the panty), Soksokkot(속속곳; underwear paji to be wide of hem), Sokpaji(속바지;trouser front and back opening), Tansokkok(단속곳; large size underwear like Soksokkot), Noronpaji(너른바지; paji like the skirt or paji bulky than tansokkot,), Mujigi무지기; tiered skirt for underwear), and Daeshumchi'ma(대슘치마; Korean underskirt, shape hem as a pad into form) for lower clothes.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.56-67
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• 1999

At the turn of the 19C, the first development, spreading to the all classes that peculiar attitude of mind associated with the term prudery. The second changes of habit which affected both sexes and their undergarments were the novel idea of personal cleanliness. Drawers appear to have been of two lengths, short, when worn under breeches, and long when worn under pantaloons and trousers. The dandy wore corsets for beauty. In the early part of the 19C, the differences between day and evening style came to be accentuated. Not only the beau, but the soldier and hunting man were addicted to stays. The high standing collars of the early 1800s became fairly low in the middle of the century. in mid of the 19C, a woolen under-vest was worn next to the skin and studs were an usual fashion. At about 1850 the bottom of the shirt was cut in a curve. For evening dress the elliptic collar was introduced.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.57-76
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• 1997

The maun purpose of this study os review and analyze the differences, among clothing terms, between the biblical definitions of the underwear terms and those used by the public in day-to-day life. According, the biblical definitions of the underwear terms which are widely used by the various literature are summarized. Also, the degree of recognition of the underwear terms by the public is studied by analyzing the results of the questionnaires which are distributed to 217 female college students, as the objects of data, who reside in Seoul metropolitan areas. As a result of this study, we find the following conclusions : First, there are considerable differences in definitions of the underwear terms between those used by the various literature and those used by the public. The personal definitions of the underwear terms, or alternatively those used by the public, are very reduced and limited and even misunderstood in some cases. Second, the definitions of the underwear terms which are actually used by the public are recognized mostly by the wearing goals, the wearing spaces, the wearing times, the wearers, the forms and the materials and, among others, the wearing goals are the most dominating factor for the recognition of the underwear terms. Finally, the comparison among the similar underwears reveals that underwears are recognized by the wearing goals, the wearing spaces, the wearers, the forms and the materials. But, the objects of data recognize the underwear terms in very limited and simple fashion instead of having definite recognition of the differences among similar items.

• Journal of Haehwa Medicine
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.171-189
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• 2000

By Literatural studying on migraine, The results were obtained as fallow : 1. A different name on migraine were called hemicrania(頭偏痛, 邊頭痛, 偏頭風). 2. In the cause of a disease in migraine, the cases were clasified into the fallowing kind : internal cause were a decline in energy and blood(氣血具虛), external cause were outside evil(外邪) in wind cold heat wetness(風寒暑濕), non internal, external cause were exhaustion. The right side migraine were concerned phlegm heat, the right side migraine were concerned wind decline in blood. 3. Migraine is appeared on the side, For the reason, liver function in excess of normal limits(肝陽上亢), a sudden of liver fire(肝火) is becomeed of invasion upon soyangkuong(少陽經) in internal external cause 4. Usage method of medicines is appeared that order underclothes theraphy(內服法), to pump out in nose theraphy, to join head theraphy(頭點法), heating smoke theraphy(熏煙法) 5. CNIDII RHIZOMA(川芎) is in mostly general use for migraine, in that order LEDEBOURIELLAE RADIX(防風) ANGELICAE DAHURICAE RADIX(白芷) ASARI HERBA CUM RADICE(細辛) NOTOPTERYGII RHIZOMA(羌活) GLYCYRRHIZAE RADIX(甘草) CHRYSANTHEMI FLOS(菊花) BUPLEURI RADIX(柴胡) SCUTELLARIAE RADIX(黃芩) ANGELICAE GIGANTIS RADIX(當歸) GYPSUM FIBROSUM(石膏) MENTHAE HERBA(薄荷) GLYCYRRHIZAE RADIX(炙甘草) VITICIS FRUCTUS(蔓荊子), nature is in mostly general hot warm(辛溫), bitter cold(苦寒), guikuong(歸經) is in mostly general liver gall kuong(肝膽經), efficacy is in mostly general to remove wind pain (祛風止痛) and to down fire(瀉火).