Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.40
no.6
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pp.1085-1099
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2016
This article is designed to establish fundamental design criterion for theme park cast costumes in accordance with play type and space. There is an understanding that theme parks act as a play space that is designed to meet diverse playing desires. To analyze cast costumes, the theme park - 'Everland' in South Korea as an example, area was divided into attraction space and non-attraction space. Attraction space is mainly for full-scale play content areas and the non-attraction space is to enforce the attraction space experience. Roger Caillois's play theory states that there are 4 play types; Illinx, Mimicry, $Ag{\hat{o}}n$, and Alea. All 4 play types were shown through attraction and Mimicry at non-attraction. Each cast costume was analyzed in terms of apparel design elements - silhouette, textile, color, detail, and props - related to play type facility and cast role. Criteria for theme park cast costume designs were suggested based on the results. Illinx cast members who fulfill a safety-checking role wear high chroma warm color costumes with the accent on details in bodice cutting lines, collar edges, pockets, buttons and decorative ornaments. A complementary contrast is also used. The guidance cast in Illinx may wear a suit in bright/vivid color. Mimicry guidance cast costumes show meticulous perfection in imitation with the figure in its space. From head to toe, color, textile, and silhouette - every detail and even props should match the character. $Ag{\hat{o}}n$ cast costumes are strictly limited in detail and decorative ornament usage as well as in color, since they are in charge of the management and operation of a competition. Alea cast's role is a self-demonstrator. Alea cast members should be a real tarot card reader. However, a manual should control their costumes. A total of 10 cast roles at a non-attraction space should be designed to show job patterns clearly in accordance with the whole theme at the park.
This study is based on the official Chinese history of the ancient Korean(中國正史朝鮮傳) clothing and ornaments, and also tries to discover, study, and adjust the system of the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments. Ancient Korea has very poor official records of its clothing and ornaments. Therefore, this study had no choice but to rely on the official Chinese history to cover for the lack of resources. The official Chinese history documents are not only important for studying ancient Korean history, but also important for studying about the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments. This research selected historical documents about the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments from fifteen different Chinese dynasties' official documents, and then systematically classified the documents in order to compare them. All these processes confirmed the following subjects. In regards to the Kwan(冠: general hat), the hat types included Check, Byun(弁), Jeol-poong(折風), Jowoo-Kwan(鳥羽冠), So-gol(蘇骨), and Na-kwan(羅冠). These Kwan(冠) were influenced from Chinese clothing and ornaments. Gold and silver decorations on the Kwan(冠) were influenced from the Scythai culture. The feather decorations on the hat were residual of the bird worshiping culture or the hunting lifestyle. These things show that the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments originated the clothing and ornaments from the North. But the use of Jo-woo(bird feather) was common around the globe in many ways during the ancient times, regardless of area and period. The official Chinese history describes men's hair style as Choo-gyul (椎結) or sometimes pronounced, Choo-gyul(椎結). These seem to describe the topknot. Women had various types of hair styles such as Yu-byun-bal-su-hu (wear women's hair in a braid). The official Chinese history show that the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments originated the clothing and ornaments from the north. The ancient Korean clothing and ornaments influenced and were influenced by its neighboring countries.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.9
no.3
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pp.1-17
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2007
This study is a review of Ipsik, the decorative ornaments found on traditional Korean horsehair hats, known as Ipja, which were worn by men in the late Joseon Dynasty. In a broad sense, Ipsik are regarded as men's accessories. Therefore, although this study is limited to Ipja, it is significant in the sense that it delves into one facet of men's accessories in detail. Because the appearance of the horsehair hats was rather mundane, Ipsik and Ibyeong were added as ornaments. During the Joseon period, various types of hat ornaments existed, named Maeksu, Hosu, Gongjagu, Sangmo, Jingdori, Ijeon, Guyeongja and Ibyeong. A person's social ranking and class could be discerned by the materials used in the Ipsik he wore. Jeongja, a decorative accessory used to attach to an official's hat, was institutionalized in the sixteenth year of King Gongmin's reign(1367), during the Goryeo Dynasty, prior to the founding of China's Ming Dynasty in 1368, which indicates that Jeongja were influenced by the Yuan Dynasty. A record in Lao Chi'ta (a textbook of spoken Chinese estimated circa 1346) confirms this fact. Based on a review of literature, we learn that just as with Ongno, Jeongja were imported for use on Jeonrip, a soldier's hat. During the Ching Dynasty, Jeongja were further subdivided and more exquisitely designed. On the other hand, in the Joseon Dynasty, a rule was handed down mandating that a royal prince use gold for his jeongja, officials at third rank or above use silver, and governors, commanders in chief, and officials with the Office of Inspector General and Office of Censor General use jade. Inspectors were permitted to use crystal. Jeongja made of jade were used until the late Joseon Dynasty.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.13
no.1
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pp.37-46
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2011
To design a beautiful hood fitting an unspecific individual, focusing on body parts such as the head, neck and shoulder requires body size and type information, which applied by physical factors like size, types, and movements, etc. These parts consist of complicated types and structures. Accurate information should be a priority due to great individual differences and low correlation with other body parts. However, there is not a lot of detailed physical information nor design methods for hood design. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to select a study sample "hood" which is a recently emerging fashion item and to expand the necessary physical information for pattern design and draw body size of wearing part on Hood like head, cerbical portion and shoulder. Extract factors to consist on types and after divided into several types, a study comparing each type's physical characteristics was conducted. In order to do that, body measurement data have been collected by statistical treatment and analyzed reference with statistical treatment. The results of the study are predicted to be important data to develop various hood designs for the recent fashion trend. Factor analysis was conducted through main composition analysis about direct measured item on human body and index items. The results of factor analysis, composed factors of body type in this research object were extracted in total of 3 factors. To categorize the head, neck and shoulders of women in their early 20s women and determine their characteristics, variances with factor analysis became operative for Cluster analysis. With these clusters, women in their early 20s were categorized into three types. The results of this study are considered to affect largely for higher physical suitability on unspecified individuals when allowed absence of reference and the fact that body size only limited to item 'head circumstance' in terms of making hat and hood in the case of recent Korea. For the future, an experimental study of hood production should be conducted by using basic data from this study.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.16
no.1
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pp.53-64
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2014
The main objective of this research was to understand the characteristics of printed geometric patterns through the statistical & qualitative analysis of fashion appeared in contemporary female collections 2011 S/S to 2013 A/W. Data collection of 294 was done through review of 'pr$\hat{e}$t-$\grave{a}$-porter Collections' of three major fashion cities; Paris, Milan and NY. Statistical analysis of frequency was conducted. Also qualitative interpretation of natural print design' characteristics were completed. The main findings were as followed; 1,636 of the total 15,852 designs were printed patterns in 12 Collections and the occurrence rate of printed geometric patterns in three collections were 8.6% in Milan, 9.2% in Paris and 12.9% in N.Y. Most geometric patterns were the types of compact or medium density in a front patterns with a variety of sizes and mainly applied to the one piece dress or two piece clothing item combination styles. Formative Characteristics of printed geometric patterns were classified into four types. First, a variety of thicknesses and shapes, such as a line or a rectangle shape to take advantage of the types of the typical geometric pattern. Second types were using the motifs which inspired by geometric shapes such as point, circle star and other special geometric shapes and arranging them regularly with various sizes and density. The third was repeated particular motifs which based on complex and sophisticated mathematical formulas. Fourth were the specific diagram types of bold and free shapes or dividing the flat and arranging them without rules, or the combination type of various geometric motifs.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.18
no.3
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pp.245-260
/
2016
This study explored cases of 3D printing utilization in domestic and overseas fashion industries, and presented utilization strategies for fashion design departments in universities in future by grasping characteristics of newly appearing distribution types through 3D printing. Cases of producing costumes using 3D printing in fashion industry comprised a bikini using the material of Nylon12 that continuum fashion demonstrated, innovative 3D costumes by Iris Van Herpen, Tweed Suit using the material that Chanel manufactured with 3D printing technology, but they were limited to experimental fashion works due to limitations of 3D printer material and printing size. On the other hand, in fashion accessories, with jewelry and shoes at the head of the list, MCM and Kipling also demonstrated bags using this technology, and Elvis Pompilio and Gabriela Ligenza demonstrated 3D printing hat products as well. Except the above, as in glasses and neckties utilizing 3D printing, owing to reduced limitations of time, size and material, 3D printing was found to be utilized in fashion accessories other than costumes. Recently there has been a new consumption and distribution structure coming up focusing on 3D printing technology. That is, in overseas countries, content platforms sharing products modeled by oneself has rapidly appeared, and in our country as well, funnypoly, a 3D content platform appeared in 2015. The appearance of these new types of distribution structures means that the common people can produce design contents, and we believe that it may bring about a change in the traditional way of distribution structure. To walk in step with this change, it is believed that it is necessary for fashion design departments to raise college faculty members who can educate 3D printing, develop curriculum to educate 3D printing, and develop experiential programs connected with middle and high schools.
The purposes of this study were to find out any significants among somatotypes and face types and importance of image making to successful students' life. The respondents were composed of 181 males and 160 females. It consists of total 29 items including the facial features, personality expression methods, characteristics of body shapes, image making, colors and neckline and their responses were measured with Likert 5-point scale. For data analysis, descriptive statistics, cross-tabulation analysis including $Χ^2$-test and frequency analysis were used. As the results, 47% of male students and 28% of female students responded they were satisfied with their own facial types. 32% of male students and all female students were not satisfied with their own body shapes and fashion depends on accessories like hat, sunglasses, boots and necklace rather than dress itself. All male and female students were not satisfied with their body shapes and recognized the importance of image. They answered that they change image if someone advices their image and it suggests that information and intellectual needs of image making are required and approach to efficient methods of image making is needed.
The objectives of this study were to analyze the design elements of hairstyles, wedding headdresses, and necklines in wedding magazine pictures by using content analysis method and to investigate the differences in image perception according to hairstyle, wedding headdress, and neckline. A quasi-experimental method by questionnaire was used. The experimental design was a $2{\times}5{\times}4$(hairstyles${\times}$wedding headdresses${\times}$necklines) factorial design by 3 independent variables. The subjects consisted of 378 female college students. The results are as follow. First, the most popular among hairstyles, headdresses, and neckline forms were the updo hairstyle, dark brown hair color, the crown headdress, white flowers, and the horizontal bared top. Second, the elements determined to be most elegant and attractive were the medium-up hairstyle and the crown with a veil. However the wedding hat was perceived to be high in individuality and tenderness, while the flower and the wedding hat were perceived to be very pretty. The halter neckline was perceived to be higher in individuality and attractiveness than the other neckline types. Third, the medium-up hairstyle when wearing a crown with veil was perceived to be the most elegant. Placing a flower in the long-wave hairstyle was evaluated as looking most pretty. Fourth, the medium-up hairstyle was higher in preference than the long-wave style. Among wedding headdresses, there was greatest preference for a crown.
Transactions of the Korean Society of Automotive Engineers
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v.14
no.2
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pp.92-99
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2006
Design capability for high safety vehicle with light weight is crucial to enhancing competitive power in vehicle market. The structural foam can contribute to restraining section distortion in body members undergoing bending collapse at vehicle crash. In this study, first, the validation of analysis model including structural foam model for simulating fracture behavior was discussed, and the bending collapse characteristics of five representative section types were analyzed and compared. Next, with changing the laminate foam shape, load carrying capability and absorbed energy were observed. The results suggests a design strategy of body members filled with laminate foam, leading to effectively elevating bending collapse characteristics with weight increase in the minimum.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.20
no.1
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pp.61-77
/
2018
The primary focus of this thesis is to look at Scythai's historical, geographical and ethnologic background in order to understand Scythai's garment types and styles as described in Scythai-related documented records, previous studies and excavated artifacts. Based upon this, another objective lies in comparing and contrasting this information with ancient Korean garments to identify what kind of relationship exists between the two. The result from this study's objectives is summarized as follows. Firstly, ancient Korean and Scythai share similarities in art work, craftwork, accessories and the like, which allows us to make a guess at the relationship between ancient Korea and Scythai of that time. Secondly, Scythai garments are based on the tight and well-fitted Caftan Yugoje, which is tightly fit to the body, as well as including garments similar to the drapery Kiton and Tunic found in ancient Greek garments, from which can be seen that the garment of culture medium passing between the East and the West had nomadic horse-riders' ethnic characteristics and Eurasian characteristics. Thirdly, ancient Korean Scythai garments were found to have homogeneity in their garment culture in that northern nomadic cultural district's Hobok-Goseupje, i.e., open-front Caftan Jeogori and pants called Sangeuihago is its basic with a triangular cone hat shape (transformed hat) and boots, which is the basis for considering that ancient Korea exchanged culture with Scythai, who once lived as active northern nomads. However, it can also be seen that ancient Korea and Scythai garments differed in form depending on region, weather, culture, custom and the like. As such, Scythai and ancient Korea have an aesthetic bond because northern nomads and Scythai exchanged their cultural traits of the times. The evidence supports this idea as it seems that the characteristics of garments that can be considered to be Scythain in style are also commonly discovered in ancient Korean garments.
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