• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.35-51
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• 2020

To satisfy consumers' desire to enjoy their own individuality and cultural trends, the discovery of various materials and the expression of materials embodying their characteristics are increasingly important in the fashion jewelry industry. This study examines, paper mulberry fiber, a raw material of hanji that has been excavated as a new material for fashion jewelry, is durable as wall as, soft and easy to form, has a unique texture along with, excellent aesthetic quality, and expresses various colors, thereby differentiating itself from traditional fashion jewelry materials. The material itself also has symbolic significance as an approach to discovering new sustainable materials for fashion jewelry to ensure increased specificity of the product based on the premise of freedom of expression. The weight and optimal drying time of chicken fiber were derived for the study of fashion jewelry expression using the characteristics of paper mulberry fiber. The techniques of casting, deflection, packing and winding (winding beads with fibers and straps) were derived and four brooches were produced in total. This study is meaningful for the future of, the fashion jewelry industry as it presents the uses of new materials such as paper mulberry fiber to induce multidisciplinary consumption and to suggest a direction for the creation of new value-added products. Further, in order to expand the realm of fashion jewelry industry with our own competitive products that have secured our cultural identity and uniqueness in the global market, there must be continued follow-up research on mass production methods for industrialization.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.11
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• pp.1844-1858
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• 2010

Ethnical tendency follows the current political, economical, and cultural influence eastwards, highlighting films, architecture and interiors as well as fashion. With this tendency, the ethnic outfits are expressed by various styles. This study analyzes the features of current ethnic styles with 1,535 ethnic image pieces from 2005 S/S to 2010 F/W of Pr${\^{e}}$t-${\'{a}}$-Porte in Paris and Milan. First, 'ethnic' is to refer to the distinct features of an ethnic group or a country. 'Ethnic look' refers to the adaptation or re-arrangement of various ethnic group's traditional costumes, dying, textile, patterns, color, silhouettes, and accessories. Second, the most popular ethnics in the modern fashion is the African style, followed by India, Japan, China, and Latin America in both collections. Third, the proportion of ethnics decreased, 2005 (14.9%), 2006 (12.8%) and 2007 (8.2%). In 2008 the proportion increased again. 2010 (27.3%) and compared 2010 to 2007, it increased by 20%. By season, S/S had 1.4 times more ethnic styles than F/W with the prevalence of African and Indian styles. Fourth, as of 2005, the ethnic style became colorful and went through changes to combine various images. This is from the polycentric tendency of co-existing various styles with a prevalence of low tone and various colors. It also shows warm colors in front to show a sense of nature.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Near Infrared Spectroscopy Conference
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• 2001.06a
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• pp.1272-1272
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• 2001

Eutrophication processes of aquatic environment are strictly correlated with the concentration levels of nitrogen, phosphorous, organic matter and biological parameters such as phytoplankton and chlorophylla (Tremel, 1996; Burns et al., 1997; Young et al. 1999; Wei et al.,2000). Accordingly, the monitoring and evaluation of these factors will provide useful information about the health of aquatic ecosystem. However, the traditional types of auqatic chemistry analysis and ecological monitoring of phytoplankton are time-consuming, costly, and further resulting in secondary pollution due to the use of reagents. NIR (near-infrared) spectroscopy, as a rapid, non-destructive, little sample preparation and reagents-free technology (Hildrum et al., 1992), has been extensively applied to the characterization of food (Osborne and Fearn, 1988), pharmaceutical (Morisseau and Rhodes, 1995) and textile materials (Clove et al.,2000). Currently, NIR technology has been used indirectly in inferring lake water chemistry by two approaches, suspended (Malley et al., 1996) or seston (Dabakk et al., 1999), and sediments (Korsman et al., 1992; Malley et al., 1999). In addition, the evaluation of trophic state and the identification of the key factors contributed to the trophication are the key step to restore the damaged aquatic environment. Moreover, an understanding of the factors, which regulate the algal proliferation, is crucial to the successful management of aquatic ecosystem. In the paper, NIR technology will be used to study the environmental factors affecting the algal proliferation in combination with the trophic state index and diversity index. This novel developed system can be applied in monitoring and evaluating allopathic water environment and provide real time information services for the aquatic environment management.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.14-25
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• 2005

The objective of this study is to understand bodily extension and identity in contemporary fashion art through the analysis of 'the fashion acting on the body' among the fashion theory excluding body and the conspicuous works on the opening and covering images as a fashion art as a body-space'. This study also investigated identity problems where there are poles apart in opening and closure their bodies and body-space in which its clothing types were distorted by being de-bodilization out of the traditional and ideological expression method in contemporary fashion art from a opening and closure point of view. Image of opening and closure among body-space in fashion art can be classified into opposing structure of opening and closure. Destroying the boundary between bodily opening and closure for a primary function of clothing and dismantling the role and boundary between body and clothing, opening body-space in appearance as a reemergence of body image or the border between inner and outer are being ambiguous because of transparent material. Being representative work of this study opening body-space was expressed as an opening space image using transparency. On the contrary, closure body-space was isolated from external environment and confined in the certain space, which could limit or restraint body- action. Excluding boundary of body and clothing on the whole or in part, boundary of work becomes body-space. However, these were appeared to be a work inducing unlimited curiosity and meaning from the audience. The interpretation of artistic and body-space in fashion art are indicating the role and function of the fashion art exceeding the suggestible dimensions in the every day life of fashion. The body-space of fashion art showing similar aspect of body art today could be understood that it is substituted into an metaphorical, critical space by seeing it as a symbol system connected with social space. Therefore, contemporary fashion art should be interpreted as an equivocal space looking at the body-space with open mind.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.1-13
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• 2016

Natural colorant extracts were obtained by extraction from tumeric root, gardenia seeds, mugwort and green tea using water, methanol, ethanol and acetone as extractants at room temperature for 3 hours under shaking condition(180rpm) with liquor ratio(solid:solvent; 1:100). The main pigment components of tumeric root, gardenia seeds, mugwort and green tea are known to be curcumin, crocin, chlorophyll b and epigallocatechin gallate, respectively. The effects of the kind of extractant and pH on the color characteristics of natural colorant extracts were investigated. The solubility parameters of pigment components were determined to find adequate extractant. The solubility parameters of curcumin, crocin, chlorophyll b and epigallocatechin gallate were found to be 27.85, 29.40, 19.48 and $37.97(J/cm^3)^{1/2}$. As expected, solvents that have a solubility parameter similar to that of pigment component were generally found to be effective to obtain pigment extracts having high visible absorbance(A). The extract(pigment/solvent) with high visible absorbance was generally found to have low $L^*$(lightness) and high Chroma($C^*$, purity).

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.247-261
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• 1991

This Study is designed to present the concret data on the contents of the economic role and their change in the recent decade among women in a Korean Village. The Case Study method was used and the data was obtained through the participant observation. This Study is composed of the three parts. The first part deals with the effect of the agricultural mechanization upon the agricultural labor pattern of women. The second part examines how the introduction of a golf course and the textile factory in the vinicity affects the labor pattern among village women. The last part tries to demonstrate that the increasing contribution of women to the village economy has not yet produced any positive effect to their social status in the village. This is seen through the detailed description of two important village activities, one social(Tae dong-Gae) and the other ritual (Mokshinjae). The Results of the Study can be summarized as fallows. Firstly, the mechanization of farming is responsible for the increasing marginalization of women's labor in farming. This is particularly true for rice cultivation. Horticulture is still cultivated by women. As the mechanization progresses further, this trend will be more articulated. Secondly, it is found that women are actively utilizing the new external economic opportunities. In fact they are found to prefer those non-farming works to the traditional farming work. The former offers them less burdened work, less working hours, and more income than the letter. Lastly, women are found to be completely excluded from the process of the two important village activities. Only men are participants in them, and women only provides the labor for preparation of food and the necessary chores.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.56 no.4
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• pp.407-416
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• 2018

This study investigated the characteristics and changes of Jeongbang-village silk culture Jeollanam-do Province during Japanese Colonial Rule with a focus in on Gokseong-gun & Damyang-gun Jeongbang-village. The results of the study are as follows. First, after Japanese occupation, it changed from a traditional silkworm species, the Joseon Silkworms and the mulberry tree to an improved Japanese species. Japan established a silk spinning mill called Jongyeon Textile factory in Gwangju and Jeongbang Village was formed in poor rural areas. Second, the way of village management consisted of buying a large number of land for mulberry plans and creating mulberry fields as a cheap way to utilize the labor force for women and men in rural areas. Third, since the end of the Japanese colonial era, mulberry fields in Jeongbang villages which the Japanese left, were sold at a cheap price to Koreans. After the Korean War, the Korean government's efforts to modernize the silkworm industry resulted in a continuous plan to increase the number of silkworms. The impact of government policies has also increased the production of silkworms in these areas. However, since the early 1980s, Korean companies have been affected by Japanese economic policies and dumping by China that has resulted in in a sharp decline in their production. In the case of Gokseong-gun and Damyang, the production of silk products was halted and switched to other crops in the early 1990s when the farming industry began to decline.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.2
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• pp.51-67
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to develop the high value-added cultural product design with local cultural resources, and to contribute to promoting cultural tourism festivals. To accomplish this study, first, a preliminary survey is carried out the investigation of cultural product stores and visitors' questionnaire survey. Next, based on these survey and prior study, this study established the development direction and concept of fashion cultural products and to developed fashion cultural products using local cultural resources. Adobe Photoshop 6.0, and Adobe Illustrator CS Program were used for the standardization of patterns, textile design and illustration. The results of this study were as follows; First, based on preliminary research results, the problems of the design of cultural tourism festival products were derived. As one solution to solve this problem, this study established the development direction and concept of fashion cultural products to develop fashion cultural products. The concept of the Andong Maskdance Festival was 'Tribal-Holic'; the Boryeong Mud Festival, 'Get away form it all'; the Gangjin Celadon Festival, 'Timeless Memories'; the Jinju Namgang Yudeung Festival, 'Lighting up the River'; the Chungju World Martial Arts Festival, 'Next Ergonomics Gym'; and the Muju Firefly Festival, 'Eco-Purity'. Second, based on the desired items of festival organizers and the survey of visitor's preference for cultural products, 4 items were selected by festival type. Then a total of 96 designs of 4 kinds each were developed using logos or characters, traditional patterns, special products, symbolizing region, or festival as a motif. Third, the strategy for development of cultural products design for promotion of cultural tourism festivals were 'Place identity design strategy', 'Market oriented design strategy', 'Buyer-Based pricing strategy', 'Regional brand strategy', and 'Distribution networks expansion strategy'.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.2
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• pp.1-17
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• 2009

This study is to understand the characteristics of Korean Women's Jeogories in modern times on the changes of its color and coloration over the time. The research was that the characteristics of the costumes produced in modern times ($1890{\sim}2000$) can be categorized into six periods according to the change of times. 1106 women's Jeogories were researched intensively in order to understand them, the conclusions are following: When the Chi-Square Test is applied to conduct cross analγsis of the said six periods divided on the basis of relevant theories, it is found that there is just partial difference in the hues in1890-1959 while there has been a big change in the hues of all Jeogories since 1960. It also seems that such a sudden change In hues took place till the end of the 1970s but there have been no significant difference and no distinct changes in hues sin[e the 1980s. As for color tones, high luminosity and low chroma hues were mainly used in all periods, but low luminosity and high chroma hues have been frequently used since the 1960s. It indicates that the long-used conventional and traditional colors gave way to various colors which were freely applied according to the tendency of individualism In the selection of colors as well. As for the coloration, one-color arrangement was predominant in white clothes while the combination of main color Y and supplementary rotor R was overwhelming in two-color arrangement. After the 1960s, not just the five major rotors but diverse colors, including bluish green, dark blue, were used, even varied patterns for linings.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.7
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• pp.13-30
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• 2008

Visual language is 'a form of communication without text'. Visual language is one of the strongest methods to spread knowledge. Uniforms could be interpreted as a symbolic language that establishes order in this complicated modern society by placing identity and responsibility on each members of various different organizations. In light of the above, the purpose of this research paper will be to analyze police uniforms of U.S.A, Great Britain, Italy, France and Korea as a form of visual language and interpreting them in terms of visual design in order to understand the fundamental ideas behind the designs and the effective applications thereof. Upon analysis of traffic police uniforms of each individual county mentioned above by separating each uniform's distinctive design, pattern, color, material and decoration based on visual factor, three characteristics of authority, dynamic functionality and friendliness were derived from comparing and analyzing each country's distinctive uniform design. The traditional unique role of police in our society was to maintain social order as their nature inherently possesses characteristic of authority and preservation, but has since undergone transition in many countries to appeal to the broader public by incorporating friendliness and dynamic functionality. Analyzing police uniforms in terms of visual linguistic sense requires a much more profound process of understanding beyond simple interpretation of configurative shapes. In conclusion, the true purpose of uniforms is to include and portray images of mankind's desire toward expressing ideas like 'mankind's bias toward existence beyond theirselves and the exercise of force through authority' and materializing such ideas into a physical form.