• 조형예술학연구
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• 제6권
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• pp.249-266
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• 2004

Nowadays more than 200 countries are living on the earth in international relation. Having their own culture and history, these countries constitute international society, creating their national image with their own identity based on the culture and history. Though each country has cultural goods in which it combines its culture and history to economic area, the global and cultural goods representing a country is not made in short term, but completed by the combination of its long tradition, cultural consciousness of the nation and artistic level. That is to say, the image developed by the country is naturally embodied in the goods and the world recognizes the image and confirms the goods. To embody such Korean and global goods, it is essential to put priority on the research of history and culture of our society. Needless to say, it is very important to find the value of our own differentiated beauty and apply it to each area of design industry. Recognizing the differentiated value of our own cultural originality, this research performs the design of scarf and necktie to exhibit Korean image in modern and fashionable ways for commercialization by developing design of fashion and cultural goods to which Korean image is applied. Through literature and various informations, the theme of design that can best convey Korean image is determined to be the national flag of Korea, Taegeukki and five cardinal colors and the researching method is as follows. First, though the area of developing designs of cultural goods is very wide and various including commerce, industry, products , fashion, handicraft and traditional handicraft, etc., this research sets the scope of developing design, focusing on the fashion accessories utilizing the textile design such as costume, scarf, necktie and so on. Second, the definition and scope of cultural goods and the present situation of domestic cultural goods will be examined. Third, the modelling property and symbolic meaning of the national flag of Korea (Taegeultki) and five cardinal colors, the theme of design will be studied. Fourth, on the basis of above research, scarf and necktie will be designed by modern and fashionable design to which Korean image is applied. Fifth, this is textured in textile printing and gradation for commercialization.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권5호
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• pp.538-544
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• 2007

We usually try to accomodate ourselves to our nature surroundings interacting with nature. There fore I've decided to apply nature materials, esp. the pine to Hair Art as a way of expressing our feelings from Nature. 'Hair Art' is a follow-up study based on the various artistic point of view. There has been various works of 'Hair Art' with nature materials. However, it is rare to see a work of 'Hair Art' with the pine. That's why I've decided to study more about this. This study is a new experiment in 'Hair Art' against a conventional idea "Hair Art values practicability." Therefore, the primary goal of this study is to do much for the cause of learning in 'Hair Art' and encourages some development of 'Hair Art' industry. I've researched an image of a pine tree in art of Joseon Dynasty and contemporary art. Then I've tried to apply the image to a work of 'Hair Art'. First of all, in a view of expression technique for the symbolism of the pine, the artists in Joseon Dynasty drew pictures of a pine tree with a paintbrush but the modern artists make a new attempt from the thought of Modernism. We can find it in some photos. Next, to express traditional oriental idea such as 'unconventional and elegance', comtemporary artists chose the symbolism of the pine tree as an object of their works like pen and ink sketches from the thought of Modernism. Third, in a fusion style picture which contains features of both oriental paintings and western paintings and in a sexualism style picture that depicts a harmony of a male and a female as a shape of a pine, we can find colorful images of a pine tree and Their figurative beauty in art. Those are another symbols of the pine. In conclusion, the implication of the pine tree still hasn't changed even there are differences of drawings of pine tree in the past and the present. I've tried to combine these symbolic ideas of the pine with 'Hair Art' and made 5 hair styles. Throughout the process of researching this topic which is 'The Study of Hair Art Using The Symbolism of The Pine', I've realized that pine trees make it possible to express intrinsic tough spirit of human being and abundance in color and figurative beauty in art. I hope this can contribute to the field of 'Hair Art' and would become an important educational resource for further study.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권5호
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• pp.711-720
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• 2009

Leaf fibers have many good properties; they are strong, long, cheap, abundant and bio-degradable. Since they, however, contain a great quantity of non-cellulose components, they have been used for the materials of mats, ropes, bags and nets rather than those of clothing. In this study, we investigated the characteristics of leaf fibers in order to promote the use of leaf fibers for the materials of clothing as well as develop the high value-added textile fibers. Leaf fiber plants including New Zealand Flax, Henequen and Banana plant, which have various nature and shape, were used. New Zealand Flax and Henequen leaves were cut from lower part of plants. Banana leaves and pseudo-stems were peeled and cut from the stem of Banana plants. First, the thin outer skins like film of leaves, veins and stems were removed before retting. The chemical retting had been processed for 1hour, at 100 in 0.4% $H_2SO_4$ aqueous solution(liquid ratio 50:1). Then, the retted leaf fibers had been soaked for 1hour, at room temperature in 0.5% NaClO solution(v/v) to remove the miscellaneous materials. We investigated the physical characteristics of three leaf fibers including the transversal and longitudinal morphology, the contents(%) of pectin, lignin and hemicellulose, the length and diameter of fibers, the tensile strength of the fiber bundles, and the fiber crystallinity and the moisture regain(%). The lengths of fiber from three leaf fibers were similar to their leaf lengths. The fiber bundles were composed of the cellulose paralleled to the fiber axis and the non-cellulose intersecting at right angle with the fiber axis. The diameters of New Zealand Flax, Henequen and Banana fibers were $25.13{\mu}m$, $18.16{\mu}m$ and $14.01{\mu}m$, respectively and their tensile strengths were 19.40 Mpa, 32.16 Mpa and 8.45 Mpa, respective. The non-cellulose contents of three leaf fibers were relatively as high as 40%. If the non-cellulose contents of leaf fibers might be controlled, leaf fibers could be used for the materials of textile fiber, non-wovens and Korean traditional paper, Hanjee.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제48권3호
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• pp.46-59
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• 2015

본 연구는 문화재에 적용 가능한 다양한 훈증방법 중에서 에틸렌 옥사이드(Ethylene oxide)를 포함하는 훈증 약제가 문화재 재질에 미치는 영향을 평가하였다. 이를 위해 지류, 섬유, 금속, 안료 등 4종류의 시험편을 제작하고 훈증처리 전 후의 색상, 무게, 표면 변화, 그리고 지류와 섬유 시험편에 대한 적외선 분광분석을 실시하였다. 훈증처리는 약제를 처리하지 않은 무처리군을 대조군으로 하고 에틸렌 옥사이드 + $HFC_{134a}$, 에틸렌 옥사이드 + $CO_2$ 등 2종류의 훈증제 처리군을 실험군으로 하였다. 색차 측정 결과, 소다회를 이용하여 증해한 한지, 은, 면, 견, 모시, 황색 안료 등에서 색상 변화가 확인되었으며 특히, 은 시험편에서 평균 6.0 이상의 높은 색차 변화가 측정되었다. 그러나 은 시험편의 경우 훈증제를 처리하지 않은 무처리 시험편의 색차가 약제를 처리한 것보다 오히려 높게 나타나 훈증제 처리가 시험편의 색상 변화에 결정적인 영향을 미치지 않은 것으로 판단되나 훈증처리 시 주의가 요구된다. 무게 측정에서는 전체적으로 0~2% 정도의 변화가 나타났으며, 금속 시험편의 변화가 가장 적었고 지류 시험편의 변화가 가장 큰 것으로 나타났다. 시험편의 표면을 현미경으로 관찰한 결과, 일부 시험편 표면에서 색상 변화가 관찰되었으며, 은 시험편에서 가장 큰 변화가 확인되었다. 그러나 지류와 섬유 시험편을 대상으로 한 적외선 분광분석 결과에서 성분상 변화는 확인되지 않았다.

• 보존과학연구
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• 통권34호
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• pp.20-29
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• 2013

지류, 섬유, 목재와 같은 유기질 문화재는 주요 화학성분으로서 셀룰로오스로 구성되어 있다. 셀룰로오스는 글루코오스가 분자내 또는 분자간 수소결합으로 고분자 결정성 구조를 이루고 있다. 특히 셀룰로오스의 중합도는 종이나 섬유의 강도와 밀접한 관련이 있으며, 종이나 섬유에 있어서 열화의 진행정도나 보존성을 나타내는 지표로써 사용된다. 일반적으로 이러한 셀룰로오스의 분자량을 측정하는 방법으로 TAPPI 표준방법인 CED (cupriethylene diamine)용액을 이용한 점도측정법을 많이 사용하고 있다. 목재 섬유로 제조된 종이의 경우 TAPPI 표준 방법 T230법에 의거하여 셀룰로오스 점도를 측정한다. 그러나 우리나라 종이나 섬유의 주요 원료인 닥나무 인피섬유, 저마, 면 등은 목재 셀룰로오스 섬유에 비해 분자량이 크고 중합도가 높아 현재까지 주로 사용되던 T230법으로는 정확한 점도 측정이 어렵다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 고점도 측정방법인 TAPPI 표준 방법 T254법에 의거하여 저농도 CED 용액으로 섬유 깊숙이 용액을 침투시켜 해리시킨 뒤 고농도의 CED 용액으로 완전히 용해시키는 방법을 이용하여 한지의 점도를 측정하였고, 열화시편에 적용하여 종이와 섬유의 열화에 의한 손상정도를 측정하였다.

• 복식
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• 제53권7호
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• pp.95-109
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• 2003

The style of different styles of clothing have been developed by not only the natural environment and social effects. but also by various variables such as the peculiar cultures and religions of different ethnic groups. It is naturally accepted without question that the origin of trousers was derived from the Skytie race in the modern style of dress. And the style of those trousers has changed and developed throughout a long history in different environments and surroundings. As part of the research of the process in this styles of clothing, it is essential to know how the fabric of trousers has been developed and how the styles have been changed because of different weather conditions and different religions. Nowadays, Eurasian countries was scattered from western and eastern Asian countries to middle Asian countries such as Russia, Uzbekistan, Kazakistan, Turkey, Turkmenistan, Iran and China. These countries are located on the way to the Silk Road. They are fully developed in a cultural area among the different religions. In terms of cultural aspects within the different religions, men's trousers had developed the traditional style of this dress as one of the importnat items on the cultural basis. The ranges and types of these traditional trousers are divided by the regions, such as west and southern Asia, central Asia and China. Pakistan, Afghanistan, Iran, Iraq, Syria, Lebanon, Turkey. Jordan, Saudi Arabia, Kuwait and Israel was a part of the west and southern Asian countries which were located between western countries and eastern countries. This tribes wore Shalwar trousers which is a wide style of trousers. Shalwar in the western and eastern Asian region has a specific feature by the each nation but has the same distinctions such as by using very wide and loose style and tying a fine thread around the waist. Some central Asian countries consisted of part of China, Turkmenistan. the Republic of Tajikistan. the Republic of Kyrgyzstan and the Republic of Afganistan. These style of trousers are compound types which appeared with mixing Draperian Greek culture. So it can be inferred from this data that the horse-riding nomadic trousers which had been handed down from Skytie tribe through Persia. The style of the trousers in those regions has small pieces. The style of the trousers in China, which is located on the way to the far eastern countries, has developed new trousers put together two pieces of the textile. These widen trousers can be worn by using a sash belt. So we can find out that those trousers of countries which mentioned above have a common point and a rule.

• 복식
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• 제57권3호
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• pp.37-52
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• 2007

Dan(緞) is satin damask. It was a newly popularized fabrics in the Joseon Period and is one of main traditional fabrics at present. The purpose of this study is to suggest a theoretical basis to name Dan(緞) remains properly by comparing and analyzing the name, pattern, usage, feature, length and width, value of Dan(緞) recorded on documents made at the end of the Joseon Period. The results of this study are as follows. 1. The kinds of Dan(緞) recorded on documents made at the end of the Joseon Period are various. Among fabrics named Dan(緞), were not only silk fabrics but also cotton fabrics, woolen fabrics, mixture fabrics with silk and cotton, and mixture fabrics with cotton and wool. 2. Some newly revealed patterns in the case of Dan(緞) are as follows. The shape of Byeolmun(別紋) is assumed to have originated from that of character symbolizing the Royal Family and developed into a variety of circular ones of dragon, phoenix, flower, or character. O-ho-ro-mun(五葫蘆紋) was five-gourd-shaped patterns that form a circle, turning their narrow mouth to the center, and vines between each two gourds. 3. When considering the usages of Dan(緞), Dan(緞) was used for various detailed usages according to their kinds. But it was't mostly used for underwear. 4. Features have been examined are Godan(庫緞), Mobondan(模本緞), Handan(漢緞), Daedan(大緞), Yangdan(洋緞), Waedan(倭緞), and Geumdan(錦緞). 5. The length and the width of 1 Pil(疋) silk fabrics are various. It is normal for the width being different, but for 1 Pil(疋)'s length being different is very unusual. The width of Dan (緞) was about 47-76.20cm, it was wider than Ju(紬), Cho, Gyeon(絹), Sa(紗), Ra(羅) and Reung(綾). 6. As for the value of each fabric per $10,000cm^2$, Dan(緞) was the most valuable silks at that time. Among them the most valuable Dan(緞) was Udan(羽緞).

• 한국항만경제학회지
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• 제29권3호
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• pp.39-72
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• 2013

전라남도 지역 내에 서남권과 동남권의 지역격차가 심하게 존재하고 있으며, 이들 문제해결을 위한 방안이 필요한 시점이다. 이러한 지역적 격차를 해소하고 서남권 경제를 활성화하기 위한 방안으로서 배후단지 건설을 제시하였다. 이 배후단지에는 기존 서남권 지역이 지니고 있던 산업들 중 경쟁력이 있는 산업과 중장기적으로 육성해야할 신성장동력산업, 그리고 마지막으로 중국 등 해외에서 U-TURN하고자 하는 기업들의 산업유치 등으로 나누어 트라이앵글 산업 클러스터를 구성하는 것이다. 그리고 이 트라이앵글 코어 내에는 연구개발 중심의 비즈니스센터를 만들어 지원하는 역할을 하는 등 원스톱 서비스를 제공하는 것이 핵심이다. 목포 및 무안내의 기존산업들중 경쟁력 있는 산업 군을 알아보기 위해 여기에서는 LQ 및 변이-할당분석을 실시하였다. 그 결과 식료품산업, 1차 금속제조업, 금속가공제품 제조업 등이 경쟁력이 있는 것으로 분석되었다. 그리고 신성장 동력산업으로서는 정밀기기 및 첨단부품산업 등을 중심으로 공항만이 이점을 최대한 살릴 수 있도록 제안하였으며, 마지막으로 U-TURN 산업으로는 고부가가치 섬유 및 의류산업을 제시하였다. 그리고 이러한 지역경제의 성장기반을 바탕으로 고용을 창출할 있는 자생적 기반이 마련될 것으로 기대된다.

• 복식
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• 제59권5호
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• pp.41-52
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• 2009

In contemporary art, soft materials are used in various forms and ways as a medium expressing contingency beyond a simple nature of materials. In the late 1960's, the appearance of soft sculpture as a refusal of the stereotyped 'Erection' characteristic of traditional sculpture served as an opportunity for more attention to soft materials. Fashion is the reflection of age, and the mirror of society, culture and arts. In other words, soft sculpture and fashion are artistic behaviors in the same context, which have neither been fixed nor erected. This study finds its significance in analyzing correlation between soft sculpture and fashion, and the importance of contingency as artistic expression means in this age when boundaries between genres are obscure, and artistic values are given to fashion. By doing so, it aims to present the direction toward which fashion should face in the future, establishing a new aesthetic consciousness with which more creative and various expressions are available in fashion as well. This study presented as its theoretical background the concept of soft sculpture affected by Marcel Duchamp among representative examples of the contingency that started to appear in art starting in the early 20th century. It also analyzed the soft sculpture appeared in 1960s and the expression methods and features of contingency appeared in fashion after late 1990s through a new approach of piling up, hanging up, and tying, three categories classified by Maurice $Fr{\acute{e}}churet$. Common features of the contingency expressed in soft sculpture and fashion were derived in the analysis, which are intensive effects of energy, values given to physical properties themselves, and esthetics of anti-form.

• 복식
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• 제59권5호
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• pp.115-134
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• 2009

This study is about Christian Dior's and Martin Margiela's fashion works that create 'New look' which leads the periodic ideology, philosophies, circumstances and the trend at that time. For the systematized interpretation, this study investigates the iconology of E. Panofsky, E. H. Gombrich and N. Goodman. Based on their theories, iconological analysis paradigm is made into four phases: I. Recognition of iconological form, II. Analysis of External Elements, III. Analysis of symbolic meanings and artistic will and IV. Aesthetic enjoyment and communication with a viewer. Christian Dior treats woman as a organic and architectural structure. He falls in love with himself such as narcissus and woman who wears his works. Dior's ego is visualized by woman and his works which are the symbol of narcissism and beauty. Martin Margiela makes form of clothes and at the same time destroys. Margiela deconstructs aura of clothes and tries to make it unfamiliar. Also he changes traditional idea of beauty and creates 'ugliness' which is a notion of dialectic. Margiela transforms elements of clothes which brings variation of thinking and makes it possible to create new look. Christian Dior and Martin Margiela are the creators of new look which visualizes the notion of habitus that is the space of self-exists. Fashion dose not have to be what people wears but it could be an image itself. It means that fashion is a part of ontology and it is a 'New look' which is based on economy, the standard of periodical beauty and ideal aspects. The creation of clothes is a work of embodiment of human being where it constructed or deconstructed.