• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.270-280
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• 2012

This study examined the dyeing characteristics of five oriental herbs, namely Gardenia jasminoides, Sophora japonica L., Rheum coreanum, Rhus javanica L., Ginkgo biloba L., on fabrics with traditional fermentation using malt. And the properties of Hwangsu (mineral water) of Yeongcheon (Korea)as a mordant in the post-treatment of textile were evaluated. The dyeability and fastness of cotton fabric and silk to light and washing as well as different fermentation periods and temperatures were investigated, and the following results were obtained. The dyeability of the fermented and non-fermented material did not show a significant difference. Fabrics mordanted with Hwangsu generally exhibited a reddish color due to the presence of iron. The dyeing of cotton fabric and silk by fermentation and Hwangsu mordanting were found to be effective on Rhus javanica L. and Rheum coreanum. These results were confirmed through fastness to light 3 of cotton on Rheum coreanum and 3-4 of silk on Rhus javanica L., respectively. The washing fastness of both fabrics dyed with fermented Rhus javanica L. and Rheum coreanum was improved, showing higher K/S value after washing than before washing.

• 복식
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• 제57권3호
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• pp.37-52
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• 2007

Dan(緞) is satin damask. It was a newly popularized fabrics in the Joseon Period and is one of main traditional fabrics at present. The purpose of this study is to suggest a theoretical basis to name Dan(緞) remains properly by comparing and analyzing the name, pattern, usage, feature, length and width, value of Dan(緞) recorded on documents made at the end of the Joseon Period. The results of this study are as follows. 1. The kinds of Dan(緞) recorded on documents made at the end of the Joseon Period are various. Among fabrics named Dan(緞), were not only silk fabrics but also cotton fabrics, woolen fabrics, mixture fabrics with silk and cotton, and mixture fabrics with cotton and wool. 2. Some newly revealed patterns in the case of Dan(緞) are as follows. The shape of Byeolmun(別紋) is assumed to have originated from that of character symbolizing the Royal Family and developed into a variety of circular ones of dragon, phoenix, flower, or character. O-ho-ro-mun(五葫蘆紋) was five-gourd-shaped patterns that form a circle, turning their narrow mouth to the center, and vines between each two gourds. 3. When considering the usages of Dan(緞), Dan(緞) was used for various detailed usages according to their kinds. But it was't mostly used for underwear. 4. Features have been examined are Godan(庫緞), Mobondan(模本緞), Handan(漢緞), Daedan(大緞), Yangdan(洋緞), Waedan(倭緞), and Geumdan(錦緞). 5. The length and the width of 1 Pil(疋) silk fabrics are various. It is normal for the width being different, but for 1 Pil(疋)'s length being different is very unusual. The width of Dan (緞) was about 47-76.20cm, it was wider than Ju(紬), Cho, Gyeon(絹), Sa(紗), Ra(羅) and Reung(綾). 6. As for the value of each fabric per $10,000cm^2$, Dan(緞) was the most valuable silks at that time. Among them the most valuable Dan(緞) was Udan(羽緞).

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권4호
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• pp.506-513
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• 2013

Rubia cordifolia L (Indian madder) contains red color purpurin (65-67%) and yellow color munjistin (10-12%) as well as nordamncanthal (9-10%). Purpurin is a traditional red dye. The purpose of this research is to increase the dyeability of silk and light fastness of dyed silk fabric. We dyed silk fabrics after pretreatment to remove the yellow component of madder using various solvents such as ethyl acetate, ethanol, methanol, chloroform, and acetone. The total K/S value was the highest in the case of chloroform and reflectance was the lowest at the red color region from 470nm to 530nm. Chloroform dissolved the yellow color of Rubia cordifolia; in addition, we found that the total K/S value increased and the ${\Delta}E$ value decreased by chloroform pretreatment for silk dyeing.

• 한국패션뷰티학회지
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• 제4권3호
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• pp.45-49
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• 2006

Silk Industry doesn't have enough strategic ability to plan the product for internal and external strong competition and global luxury trend in Jinju. To provide silk fashion planning information and planning method, this study investigated the fabric planning system, such as product system and problems, the method of seeking information, via questionnaires for 68 Jinju silk companies. The results were that the Korean traditional garment, Han-bok and lining of that were given more wight in Jinju Silk for domestic, and the next, neckties. These silk had produced by OEM and didn't have almost my planning ability, but nowadays buyers wanted to get some planning ideas from manufactures, not giving any planning guideline before production, more and more. For Jinju Silk Fabric Companies, planning direction of silk fabrics of vision were needed, that had to be adaptable to manufacture situation and applicable to market.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제4권3호
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• pp.9-15
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• 2002

Compared with synthetic dyes, natural dyes have inferior colorfastness as a result of the exposure of the material to any environment that may be encountered during the processing, testing, storage, display or use of the dyed materials. Especially, colors on fabrics fade excessively after washing. Therefore, it is problem to infer the historic textiles with natural-dyed fabrics. The object of this study is to analyse the factors affected to colorfastness and color change during washing. In experimental, fifteen natural dyes were dyed by the Korean traditional dyeing methods onto natural fiber fabrics: cotton, silk, ramie, and flex. Total 49 dyed fabrics in combination with dyes and fibers were used for the specimen. The Launder-Ometer was used for evaluating the effects of exposure to repetitive washing from 1 to 20 washing cycles (KS K 0430). Color difference(ΔE) in the CIEL＊A＊B＊ color-order system were determined by spectrophotometer at 100 bserver. Washing caused significant changes in the color of natural-dyed fabrics. The degree and nature of color changes on the fabrics were dependent on the combination of fiber and the dye type used. The groups of violet(Lithospermum erythrorhizon Sieb.et Zucc) and black color(Ailanthus altissima Swingle, Phus trichocarpa Miq) yielded excellent colorfastness to repetitive washing. The group of indigo blue color(Polygonum tinctorium Lour.) was also very resistant to color change in washing except silk. Whereas the dye groups of Red, Yellow, Orange, Brown colors indicated greatest changes in color, particularly Carthamus tinctorius L.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제6권3호
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• pp.45-53
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• 2004

Natural dyes have poor colorfastness as a result of the exposure of the dyed fabric to sunlight encountered during the display or wearing. As colors on fabrics fade excessively under sunlight, it is a problem to infer and restore the historic textiles with natural-dyed fabrics to original colors. The object of this study is to analyse the factors affected to color change under light. In experimental, fifteen natural dyes were dyed by the Korean traditional dyeing methods onto natural fiber fabrics: cotton, silk, ramie, and flex. Total 49 dyed fabrics in combination with dyes and fibers were used for the specimen. The Weather-O-meter was used for evaluating the effects of exposure to light for 2.5 to 450 hours. The process of color changes in the CIEL *A*B* color-order system to the exposure time were determined by spectrophotometer at 10$^{\circ}$ observer. Sunlight exposure caused significant changes in the color of natural-dyed fabrics. The degree and nature of color changes on the fabrics were dependent on the combination of fiber and the type of dye used. The groups of violet(Lithospermum erythrorhizon Sieb.et Zucc.) and black color(Ailanthus altissima Swingle, Phus trichocarpa Miq) yielded excellent colorfastness to light. The group of indigo blue color(Polygonum tinctorium Lour.) was also very resistant to fading in both exposure except silk. Whereas the dye groups of Red, Yellow, Orange, Brown colors indicated greatest changes in fading, particularly Carthamus tinctorius L.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.120-130
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• 2011

This study is a fundamental research on the natural Polygoum tinctoria dyeing to quantify scientifically and satisfy the reproducibility of the procedure. By dyeing the silk fabrics, the establishment of accurate dyeing method was sought. At the same time, we tried to modify the traditional dyeing methods, broaden the methods, and apply the dyeing variously. The dyeability and color changes were compared and reviewed according to the changes in the reducing temperature, reducing time, concentration of the reducing agent, dyeing temperature, dyeing time, concentration of NaOH, and the number of repetition of dyeing. The optimum conditions in the dyeing procedure are as follows: Added concentration of the reducing agent is 3g/${\ell}$. Reducing temperature is $60^{\circ}C$. Reducing time is 40minutes. Dyeing temperature is $30^{\circ}C$. Added concentration of NaOH is 1g/${\ell}$. Dyeing time is 30minutes.

• Conservation and Restoration of Cultural Heritage
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• 제1권1호
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• pp.23-27
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• 2012

Bletilla striata is an important herb that is used as a paste for texture processing, an ingredient in incense and an additive for preserving calligraphic works and paintings. This study evaluated Bletilla striata, which has been used to preserve and manage the textiles and paper. In particular, this study examined the viscosity of a paste made from Bletilla striata, as well as the mechanical characteristics and antibiotic properties of the fabrics treated with the herb. In terms of viscosity, Bletilla striata paste was less sticky than wheat flour paste, meaning that the former can be applied more evenly to sized fabrics. In addition, Bletilla striata paste has high transparence, ensuring little color difference between the fabrics treated and not treated with the paste. Regarding the mechanical characteristics of the fabrics processed using the KES-FB System, the sized fabrics treated with Bletilla striata paste showed a higher flexibility and recovery rate and than those treated with the wheat flour paste, indicating that the former paste can be more effective in making fabrics maintain their original form and shape. Finally, silk fabrics treated with Bletilla striata showed very high antibiosis. This suggests that the paste can be used to develop antibiotic substances that can preserve textiles.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권6호
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• pp.715-724
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• 2003

The Korean clothing culture has shown rapid changes along with influences of western cultures, with social changes due to the liberation from Japan, the Korean War, and the economic growth concentrated on export since the westernization of Korea had begun. Also clothing materials, as a phase of such culture, have been changed. Among silk fabrics, "Dan (단: damask of satin texture with Korean traditional patterns are inwoven)", which has been concerned one of the most beautiful and precious fabrics due to its complexity and difficulty of processing. Since the beginning of the Era of Enlightenment(Kae-hwa-gi), Dan fabric materials and weaving methods have changed. It seems that the figured texture using the Jacquard loom began in 1936. when the Jacquard machine began to be imported from Japan into Korea. From that time on, new fabric materials, such as yangdan (양단), and popdan (법단), hobakdan (호박단), silk and rayon mixed Dan(교직양단) began to be produced. Before 1950's there were some restrictions about the Number of wefts, so the production of the one colored dan(단색단) was more common than that of the multi colored dan(다색단). But with the spread of 4$\times$4 shuttle box loom (양사정직기), various kinds of the multi colored dan have been produced after 1960's. Around the end of 1980's, automatic shuttle change loom have been generalized and 7 color dan(칠색단), 9 color gumsadan (구색금사단) have been current in multi colored dan. In terms of materials, synthetic and chemical textiles had been used widely and alter 1980's most fabrics, of which the ground weave is not being woven with satin-weave but being woven with plain or twill-weave, are named Dan in general.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.59-63
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• 2003

This study aims at developing of textile design expressed not only Korean natural image but also modern sensibility using fabrics dyed by tie dyeing with various natural dyes. And it attempts to practicality of high value-added goods revived traditional beauty. With the aqueous extract of various natural dyes, i.e., indigo, amur cock tree, onion's peel, citrus peel, mugwort, gromwell, sappan wood silk fabrics dyed by tie dyeing. Also various color changes were examined by mordants, i.e., aluminium sulfate, cupric acetate mono hydrate, ferrous chloride. With these fabrics, I made works using the techniques of applique, mola, fabric's connection and weaving. I think the developed textile design gave expression to natural image of Korean nation.