• 조형예술학연구
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• 제8권
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• pp.63-94
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• 2005

ChangSayng-Do in the late Chosun dynasty was a kind of traditional painting which sublimated the philosophy and emotion of everyday life into an aesthetic consciousness through a long history of Korean people . It would represent a human wish and desire to live a long and healthy life, which was implicated by way of Taoism. The major themes of ChangSayng-Do - mountains, the sun, cloud, water, rock, deer, tortoises, cranes, pine trees, bamboos, peaches, and herbs of eternal youth - were all symbols used. to wish for a long-life and immortality in real world. All or some of these items were represented in paintings, which resulted in the various kinds of ChangSayng-Do. The main concern of this thesis will be centered around the naturalistic subjects shown in ChangSayng-Do. This thesis consists of four chapters. The first chapter describes the purpose of and need for the research, and its method and scope. The second chapter deals with the origin and style of ChangSayng-Do, and the background of its formation. It is found out that the formative characteristic of ChangSayng-Do lies in the archetype, the unity of man and nature following the traditional view of nature. It is also found out that ChangSayng-Do implied the notions of Supernatural Being, Yin-Yang and Five Elements, Taoism, and Confucianism as well as Korean shamanism. Third chapter is largely about an analytic investigation into symbolic visualization of ChangSayng-Do. Firstly, the subject matters shown in ChangSayng-Do consist of items of wishful omen for long-life and good luck, and any motif in a picture implies a symbolism of eternal youth and long-life. Secondly, the view of colors shown in ChangSayng-Do is closely connected to Five Elements and Five Direction, a traditional oriental philosophy of universe, and these symbolic colors are based on shamanism and Yin/Yang-Five Elements. According to an iconological analysis, it is confirmed that these viewpoints are consistent with formative principles and expressive methods of ChangSayng-Do to some extent. The fourth chapter is one of the most important elements for visualization of ChangSayng-Do. The symbolic meaning of long life and good luck is the major source of its popularity inside the palace as well as among the people in general. The fact that ChangSayng-Do was used to ornament the palace was documented in $\lceil$UiGuey(documents about Chosun dynasty$\rfloor$. Also during the late period of Chosun dynasty, the appreciators of arts had begun to spread from high level class to lower level class, and many pictures represented in $\lceil$Hanyang-Ga$\rfloor$ were the ones produced and circulated for those increased consumers. As for the folk-artistic characteristics, the anonymity and arbitrary naturalness of ChangSayng-Do demonstrates that the folk-artistic elements were fully soaked into the life styles of people in general. ChangSayng-Do further shows that a human being is located in the center of the universe, and that all the natural phenomena and ecology are observed to happen around human beings, and that the results of those happenings are connected to man's course of life. It is discovered that the subject matters of ChangSayng-Do in the late Chosun dynasty imply another idea inside metaphors and symbols. With regard to the arrangement of time and space, the unity or oneness of oneself with the world is more highly regarded than one's individual subjectivity: there exist multiple times and spaces in a single picture This reveals a wholistic view of oneness which does not permit the division between phenomenon and substance. To conclude, this thesis inquired into ChangSayng-Do in the late Chosun dynasty focusing on the expression of archetype-symbols. And through the analysis and demonstration, this thesis re-established constructional principles and formative characteristics of ChangSayng-Do and then settled a new phase of ChangSayng-Do, with a deep under-standing of fundamental thoughts of Korean people underlying ChangSayng-Do.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.65-80
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• 1999

In this study, the researcher studied the historical background and the traditional culture about dress and ornament of Yunnan Province of China. The Results of the study are as follows. 1. In the Past, Derung's dress was very simple due to the influence of various factors, such as geography and history. Men wore shorts and covered diagonally a piece of cloth from left shoulders to right armpits and tied up the two ends on chests. Women covered crisscross two pieces of cloth from both shoulders to knee. 2. Achang people's dress and adornment has its own unique characteristic. Generally, men wear Jackets with buttons down the front and black trousers. Unmarried men like to wear white turbans, while most of married men usually wear dark blue ones. Women usually wear tight-sleeve blouses with buttons down the front and skirts. Unmarried women wear the hair in braids coil them on the top of their heads. They wear short blouses and trousers. Married women wear their hair Into buns and like to entwine black or blue cloth into high trubans. They wear short blouses and knee-length straight skirts. Achang knife enjoys high reputation and has a long history and an exquisite workmanship. All the men like to wear it. 3. The dress and adornment of the Lahu nationality has both the characteristic of farming culture and the style of nomadic culture of early times. Men usually wear short shirts with round necks and buttons down the front, loose-legged trousers, turbans or dark blue cloth caps Women's dress and adornment can be categorized into two styles. One is black cloth gown with buttons diagonally on the right front and waist-length slits on both sides. The edges of fronts and cuffs are edged with Silver ornaments and lace. They also wear trousers. The other is short blouse with round neck and short opening on th right front, straight skirt and colourful leggings with embroidered patterns. 4. The Hani people, men and women, old and young, like black colour and are fond of wearing black clothes. Men usually wear shirts with buttons down the front and trousers, entwining their heads with black or white cloth. The elderly people wear calottes. Women wear cloth blouses, skirts and trousers or shorts. Slight differences exist in the clothing and adornments according to region, branch and age 5. Blang people's dyeing technique with an exquisite method has a long history. Men wear dark blue long sleeve shirts with round necks and buttons down the front or arranged diagonally on the front and loose-legged trousers. Elderly men wear big turbans wdress and adornment varies greatly in different regions. 6. The Lisu people culture of dress and adornment has some unique characteristics. The styles and colours of their dress and adornment differ slightly from place to place. In the Nujiang area, Women wear black velvet Jackets over blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and long pleated ramie skirts. Men usually wear wraparound ramie gowns, with center vent, made of fabrics alternated with white and black cross stripes. They also wear cloth waistbands and trohile youngsters keep their hair short. Women's users. In the Lushui area, the dress and adornment is similar to that in the Nujing region, but women wear aprons and trousers instead of skirts. 7. The Nu people dress and adornment is simple but elegant Women are proficient in ramie-weaving. Men usually wear gowns With overlapping necks, knee-length trousers and leggings. They like to wear their hair long and entwine dark blue or white turbans. Women wear black and red vests over blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and ankle-length skirts. They also wear their hair long, make it into braids, and entwine dark blue or colourful cloth turbans. 8. Pumi men usually wear ramie shirts With buttons arranged diagonally on the right front, loose trousers and white sheepskin vests. Some also wear overcoats made of "pulu". Women's dress and adornment varies in different areas. In the Lanping and Weixi regions, women wear white short blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the front and dark brown embroidered vests. They also wear trousers and blue or black cloth turbans. In the Ninglang and Yongsheng regions, women wear hemmed blouses With buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and drape sheepskin capes. They also wear white pleated skirts and use broad colourful cloth as their waistbands.

• 한국전통조경학회지
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• 제30권3호
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• pp.42-56
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• 2012

본 연구는 창덕궁 후정에 위치한 옥류천 영역의 핵심경물인 위이암의 조영특성과 사용된 경관 설계기법을 구명하는 것으로서, 대상지의 조영기법, 공간 구성 및 변천과정과 이용실태에 대한 조사가 이루어졌다. 이에 대한 집약된 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 옥류천 위이암은 큰 암반을 뫼산(山)자의 형상으로 다듬은 경물로 조성되었으며, 유배거에는 물을 공급하기 위해 바위 한 틈에 석수로를 파고 어구의 물을 끌어들였다. 위이암의 폭포는 본래 물이 바닥을 타고 흐르는 급류로 조성되었으나, 고종 연간에 암반을 네모지게 깎아서 이낙[현폭]의 효과를 주도록 개축되었다. 둘째, 동궐도에 나타난 위이암의 주요한 특징으로는 위이암 배후에 방형의 지당과 흙으로 쌓은 언덕이 나타나는 것이며, 위이암 측면에도 계류를 만들어 그윽한 산천(山川)의 풍경을 연출하였다. 또한 옥류천에 건립된 소요정, 청의정, 태극정은 모두 위이암을 감상하기 위한 조망지로 건립된 것으로 판단되며, 이들 조망지에서는 청의정지, 태극정지와 같은 별도의 수계를 조성하여 조망처의 기능에 구속되지 않고, 각 지점에서 색다른 흥미를 느낄 수 있도록 배려한 경관 설계기법이 돋보였다. 한편, 옥류천에 내재된 공간구성 요소인 위이암의 석경, 입체적 물소리, 독특한 수계와 화사한 식물소재는 감상자에게 심리적 안정을 주고 심신을 정화시켜 주는 역할을 하였던 것으로 판단하였다. 셋째, 옥류천의 공간구성이 파격적으로 변형된 고종 21년(1884년)의 변화상은 소요정 앞의 배수를 개선하기 위해 계류와 소요정의 담장을 없애고 소요정의 양 측면에 배수시설을 설치한 것이 확인되는바, 기존의 불리한 배수환경을 개선하고자 하는 자구책에 의한 것이었다고 판단하였다.

• 한국전통조경학회지
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• 제34권4호
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• pp.14-25
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• 2016

본 연구의 목적은 정조가 애호한 화훼는 무엇이며 그 태도와 그 이유, 여기에 반영된 의미를 밝히는데 있다. 연구의 범위는 완호(玩好)의 대상물로서의 특정 '화훼'에 한정하였다. 연구의 방법은 사료에 담긴 내용과 의미를 고찰하고 해석하는 기술(description)적 연구로 진행하였다. 정조의 일생은 매우 절제된 생활태도로 일관했다. 그의 의식주는 소박했으며 음악, 잡기, 여색 등에도 관심을 보이지 않았다. 정조는 기화요초(琪花瑤草)에도 관심을 두지 않았다. 이러한 정조의 태도로 인해 특정 화훼에 대한 자신의 취향을 드러낸 일이 많지 않다. 정조는 여러 종류 꽃들을 잘 알고 있었으며 꽃을 소재로 문학 혹은 회화 등 예술적 표현에 있어서도 막힘이 없었다. 정조 스스로 자신이 애호하는 꽃으로 밝힌 것은 석류가 유일하다. 그러나 정조에게 있어서 석류는 단순한 완상(玩賞)의 대상물로서의 화훼가 아니었다. 석류는 벼농사의 절기를 알려주는 '지표식물(indicator plant)'로서의 의미를 갖는다. 따라서 이를 가까이 두고 수시로 접함으로서 농사의 절기를 일깨우는 매체가 되도록 했는데 그 수량도 단지 몇 그루에 그쳤다. 이 밖에 정조는 즉위 초반에 자신에 대한 암살기도 등 안위가 위협받는 상황 속에서 석류화분 5, 600개를 팔진도(八陣圖)의 돌무더기 형태로 배열하여 처소에 대한 방호물(barricade)로 활용하기도 했다. 정조의 이와 같은 석류화분 활용은 관상 등 시각적 활용과는 전혀 무관한 것으로 매우 독특한 사례라고 할 수 있다. 여러 기록을 볼 때 석류는 재위기간 전반에 걸쳐 정조와 함께한 꽃이라는 점을 확인할 수 있었다. 정조가 이렇듯 장기간에 걸쳐 석류를 가까이 한 이유도 미적 향유(享有) 등 통념적인 화훼에 대한 완상(玩賞) 행태와 차별성이 있다는 점이 주목된다. 본 연구의 한계는 국역된 자료에 의존하여 연구가 진행되었다는 점이다. 새로운 사료의 번역 성과에 따라 보다 심도 있는 후속 연구가 필요할 것이다.

• 복식
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• 제41권
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• pp.95-105
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• 1998

SOO-BAL(Hair Style) is a method Which match hair style to face and clothes with using hair covering and protecting the head. Also SOO-BAL includes personal ornaments using to avoid one's hair be disheveled. In a standpoint of beauty and spirit, etiquette SOO-BAL is a very important thing as one being dressed up. Until now, since just a form of hair style have been studied, hair styling process is nothing to be known and studied. Time after time, our unique traditional SOO-BAL is forgotten with clothes and then this th-esis will be classified hair styling form follow-ing a form of hair style in royal palace of the C-hosun dynasty. According to the record of HAE DONG HISTORY, it shows the same of attire between Ko-rean and chinese style in ae of the chosun. The reason in that there were no any certain boundary border and the interaction of culture between two countries was happened spontaneously at ancient time like the GOCHO-SUN age. Until the period of the three states, the korean attire be changed had gone with chinese one s-imilarly. The chinese form gave to influence on the EONJIN MEURI·POON-GI-MYEONG MEURI·JJO-CJIN MEURI·MOOK-EUN GOONG-BAL MEURI·OL-LIN MEURI·SSANGSANG-TU ME-URI be drawn wall painting in the KOKUR-YU. And a gold chignon accesso-ry unearthed in a MOO-RYOUNG royal mausoleum is proof of the korean attrire be changed with chinese. In the shilla dynasty at three years after Cjin-Deuk(A.D. 649) reign. It was recorded that the dynasty let women wear the form of chinese attire. Also in the koryo dyn-asty, a rod-like hairpin (BIN-YEU) and DANG-GI employing EON-JIN MEURI was used. The SOO-BAL based on the Confucianism had lots of regulations which limited to use ornaments with classes of society in the CHOSUN dynasty. Until YOUNG CHO and CHUNG CHO period. EONJIN MEURI be decorated GACHAE was announced by dynasty as ind-ulging in luxury. Women of yangban used a rod-like hairpin and a chignon accessory made by jewerly. And 1-owly women weared a rod-like hairpin made of born and wood to perfom EONJIN MEURI with PUNCHAE. Most unmarried women decorated with DDA-AH-NEULIN MEURI, GUI-MIT MEURI, specially in palace with SAE-ANG MEURI. At palace, one put on a full dress with KEUN MEURI, and a simple dress with ER-YEO MEURI be decorated DDERL-JAM The CHOP-JI MEURI manifested social rank, class. Kids at CHO-SUN age had BA-DUK-PANMEURI and JONG-JONG MEURI. The ornament things are GACHE, DDERL JAM with EON-JIN M-EURI, and all kinds of rod-like hairpin and chignon accessory used in JJOK MEURI. IN DANGGE, JE-BI-BURI DANGGI used by ummarried women. DO-TOO-RAK DANGGI and AP DANGGI on a dress suit, and BE-SSI DANGGI used by 3∼4 years ungrown kids etc. were used. And at palace, kinds of CHUPJI used with JJOK MEURI showed social rank. In CHOSUN age, women want to keep shiny hair washed at TA-NO festival day, a treatment of bald hair used a forked remedy. In CHOSUN age, woman Soo-Bal hair style has DAE-SOO·DDEU-KOO-JI MEURI·CHO-P-GI MEURI·EON-JIN MEURI·SAE-ANG MEURI· and so on. We could find out Soo-Bal was developed very well by these variety hair styles. I attatched all of the hair style pictures step by step, and also explained detail my research foll owing these pictures.