• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.19
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• pp.141-155
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• 1992

The Buddhist costumes, unlike the ordinary ones, have not been studied comprehensively due to their religious, non-popular and non-social features. In this regard, this paper aimed at reviewing the styles and symbolic Characters of the monks' dancing costumes for the traditional Buddhist ceremony of 'Spirit Vulture Peak'(The Intangible Cultural Asset No.50.) Here, the 'Spirit Vulture Peak Ceremony' is a kind of Buddhist ceremony commemorating the Buddha's preaches on the peak of Mt. Grdhrakuta by means of symbolized ritual and reformation procedures. The methodology of this study depended on the research of literatures, personal observation of the actual ceremony and the discussion with Priest Park Song-am. The dancing style of the Ceremony can be divided into four categories; the cymbal dancing., the drum dancing , the butterfly dancing and the column-beating dancing. And for the dancing costumes, the loose ritual mantle, the long-sleeve robe and the buddhist costume are used; the loose mantle and the long-sleeve robe are for the drum dancing. The style of the loose mantle is rectangular, sewn every odd knot between 5 and 25 ones. According to the record, its color was initially grey or red-yellow, but varied depending on the local rules. The four corners of the loose mantle have a rectangular-cloth embroidery of sky & king patterns, and the center is embroidered with the Sun'Moon designs or 'Om/Nan' letters in the Korean spells. The light of Sun/ Moon designs symbolizing the sky and the earth respectively are indigenous to a particular school in Korea. The long-sleeve robe has a traditional over-coat style. and is called otherwise of if some design is added. The total clothing or dancing costumes for the Ceremony include 'the Dae-ryung (meaning great peake)loose mantle', 'the White Paldad(meaning Chinese Character eight) long-sleeve robe and the peaked hat. The Dae-ryung mantle is a kind of ritual costumes with the shorter length than the ordinary mantles, and has a character 'Ryung' in Chinese spell attached with three to six colors. The White Paldae robe is shorter than the ordinary robes in the total length but longer in the length of sleeves. It is put on over the mantle from the left shoulder, and used often for the butterfly and column-beating dancings. It is hoped that this study will promote the study on the customs and rites of the Buddhism rather than on the thoughts, and contribute to the further studies.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.1
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• pp.129-143
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• 2002

Patterns are something that comes out of necessity in human life, which is closely associated with it. Thus come the SFAA (Seoul Fashion Artists Association) collection which uses patterns varying in form, color, way of expression and material. For this research, I first categorized the patterns the SFAA designers used into: natural patterns, symmetric patterns, traditional patterns, stripe, plaid, dot and abstract patterns. As a result of the process. the designers most favored the natural patterns and symmetric patterns, and dot patterns were rarely used. The designer who most favored patterns in general was Sul Yun-hyoung, and the designer Kim Chul-ung rarely favored the surface effect. The seven kinds of patterns naturally differ according to the designer. as Park Hang-chi liked to use the plaid patterns along with yam dyeing material, whereas Jin Teok expressed stripe patterns using the yarn dyeing fabric. Natural patters were presented in a bizarre way with Lie Sang-bong. who took the motives appearing in Eastern ceramic and paintings into the clothes, using the print method. The symmetric patterns, which the SFAA designers most preferred. was used evenly among designers like Chang Kwang-hyo, Gee Choon-hee. Rubina, and Haneza. In contrast. Lie Sang-bong. who used abstract patterns that do not give out meaning of the actual form of the pattern. rarely used symmetric patterns. The dot patterns were most often used by Park Youn-soo. and traditional patterns were overwhelmingly chosen by Sul Yun-hyoung. Secondly. in expressing the colors, SFAA designers were much more likely to choose achromatic colors. not choosing to show off colors. This is especially apparent in works by Haneza and Lie Sang-bong. In the SFAA collections, numerous methods were used to create. For instance, Sul Yun-hyoung used the oriental embroidery method. and Rubina and Lie Sang-bong used many unique dying methods. In terms of materials, Sul Yun-hyoung preferred silk. due to her methods, and Lie Sang-bong was one of the designers that used a number of different materials such as vinyl. Jacques Mueclier of the Paris Clothes Association in France, who was invited to SFAA collection once, remarked. "While the choice of material and the actual sewing done were excellent, there lacked much difference among the designers, as most of them choose flowing silhouette In terms of composition," which is all too correct. In addition, there were cases in the collection where the inherent feelings of cultural artifacts was expressed without alteration. Summing up, the research aimed to analyze the surface expression methods, forms and color of SFAA designs. and I hope that it can open up ways for new projects in the future.he future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.18
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• pp.373-381
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• 1992

Woman in Choson era had various kind of accdssories like rings, ear ring, ornamentak hairpins and so on. Among them their favorite was the Norigae, the pendent trinket. With the embroidered ornament at its center, beads and knots were attached to the upper and lower part, and it was hung with a tassel. It was carried on the string of the Chogori. norigae oreginated in waist string of Three Countries era(Sills, Paekje and Koguryo) ; had been changed with the development of fashion, embroidery and the influence of Buddhistic culture. The differences between Embroidered Norigae and Norigae are following. If the ornament at its center is made of such jewels as gold, silver, jade and the like, it is called Norigae. But if the ornament at its center is made of the embroidered Norigae. Such a Embroidered Norigae in which perfume was contained, was as a perfume box or a perfume bag and was carried on the strings of Chogori by Danjak(single work). The Differences between ancient Embroidered Norigae of late Choson era and modern Embroidered Norigae are Following; 1) The type of main body-the embroidered ornament at its center was mainly embroidered with the shape of animals in both of ancient Embroidered Norigae was usually formes like a bat and that of modern Embroidered Norigae like butterfly. 2) plants were adapted as the main design of ancient Embroidered Norigae, but plants and animals as that of modern Embroidered Norigae. 3) The colors of the background and the design are usually red in both ancient and modern Embroidered norigae. 4) The tassels of ancient Embroidered Norigae were mode in the shape of srick and a strawberry. but the tassels of modern Embroidered Norigae were mainly made in the shape of a stick. 5) Nowadays the beauty of external form is considered more important while the symbol of main body was considered more important in Choson era. 6) The role of Thidon in the composition of Embroidered Norigae is declined and a lot of main bodies are used in modern Embroidered Norigae. 7) Modern Korean people are apt to choose Embroidered Norigae depending upon the design of main body and the traditional Korean beauty. 8) Modern people who desire to get new thing, try to make the design of main body various. As their cognition of Korean tradition is of the increase, the restoration of ancient Embroidered Norigae to its original form has been accom

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.2
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• pp.149-167
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• 2001

Today, every culture has taken on the compromise form by means of the cultural difference, variety, and pluralism according to the internationalization and the advance so that it has been developed toward the half-blooded and multilayered the aspect. In accordance with this current of the times, this thesis observed the feminism found in the multiculturism of the end of the 20th century, the third world, and technology with the side of the tendency of modern fashion, considered the hybride phenomenon which is pulling down the wall between culture and genre due to the social diversification. and predicted the fashion trend do 21st century serf on it. Multiculturism is the movement that began to arise in the academic world of America and the literary world form the close of 1980's in accepting the variety of culture and regarding the culture with the more balanced and wide view and just as it is, it means the attitude of accepting one or more cultures of variely and the position of taking interest in the culture of minority race not the culture of a governing race. It is the fashion of feminism adapts dualism like unisex, androgynous look, etc of bisexual lendency in the 1980's, it shows new style with crossover of liberal sense because there is not the difference of sex in fashion. The eco-feminism pursues the natural sexuality not being instrumental and dismantling and expressed it in the Gender expression of an integrated human being. The trend of ethnic fashion in the close of 20th century is that the element of hippie is working so strongly. By adding embroidery of Oriental style, accessories of Indian style, feathers, beads, a hempen hood to the ethnic costumes of Asia and Latin, is shows the figure of ethnic hippie. As the cycler fashion is the future clothes through technology of computer, it uses a cool glass material bringing up the image of a spacesuit in order to expresses cyber image through artificial color combination of sheen colors, Though this techno-color fashion has established the fresh stimulation and the innovative aspect with ultramodern materials and image of futurism, it transmits a hope of estranged people and the natural elements. Hybride means a cross and mixture of animal and plant in Korean and is also called fusion. The phenomenon of hybrid predicts to comes the period of a cross and variation because something completely new comes into the world by contamination, mixture and compromise through meeting something different each other and it has on advantage of developing something existing to one more stage. It is prospected that in the society of 21st century, the borderline of traditional gender will be disappeared, variety and individuality will determine the individual behavior, and the masculine value will be substituted by feminine value. In the society giving priority to feminine value, a fashion stuck closely to women is what must reflect lives of woman under the proposition of woman's beauty, being on original function. So, it is considered that a fashion with added convenience and practicality having the function which is easy to put on, comfortable to act, able to express solves so much, and able to show various appearances according to T.P.O will get into the spotlight.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.24
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• pp.59-82
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• 1995

All kinds of art are the creatures of the daly and reflect the society and the life of the day in literary works. So, in which literary works, we can find the styles of those who lived in the specified days. And the styles of its character's costume are expressed with the day'mood and cultural backgrounds. In this study, we studied on the general meaning, which was shown in the Costume of early Ch'ing Dynasty that was forming the Costume of dress through dividing into the underwear and the outer garment in $\ulcorner$Dream of the read Chamber$\lrcorner$. During the Ch'ing Dynasty, according to the rule : Men followed it but women not" , they held on to the costume of them (both the Man and the Han) with a high pressure and a conciliatory policy. As a result, I have known that there is the Soojean clothe(수전의), which is the late Myung Dynasty's one and their is also Skirt (군), which held on the Costume of the Myung's. Hence in the Ch'ing , there are a lot of difference in the Costume , the economy and the politic because the ruler was not the han but the Ch'ing. Those characters are as follows. first, on the side of the style , it is occured in the coat and the over jacket of the round neckline. The style of the sleeves are also the tightly(고착). Second, on the side o f the material, the use of the furs are found. It seems that are influence of the north area. Third, it is involved not the traditional Costume of the Han, but the over jacket(which is waistlength), These characters had taken root into the Costume of the Ch'ing Dynasty. In case of the jacket, which are found in the novel most frequently , it was represented by the tight jacket (소오), the long jacket (대오), the short jacket(단오) and the Sam (삼). The skirt was used by women only. the Slacks were trousers only for men, so it was not foujnd in the women's wear. In the vest, the over jacket and coat, which are for putting on, its material, insiqnia and varied embroidery are very brillant and elaborate. The used materials are the silks , furs, wools and cottons. Among the dick silks are used most frequently . in case of the over jacket, the precious and varied furs are used for the collar, the sleeve or the decoration and the lining cloth. In the novel, mean followd the Costume of the Man and women followed the Costume of the Han. Especially, it is a special costume that there were women in male attire. Finally, the costume of the Ch'ing had built the unique one with holding on the advantage and the short point s of the northen race and the Han's. Also , I can find the brilliant , eleborate Customes of the aristocratic class in the novel.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.50 no.2
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• pp.94-115
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• 2017

'Arirang folk song in the Democratic People's Republic of Korea' was inscribed to the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2014 and 'Tradition of kimchi-making in the Democratic People's Republic of Korea' followed in 2015. It is presumed that North Korea was influenced by the Republic of Korea inscribing 'Arirang, lyrical folk song in the Republic of Korea' to the list in 2012 as well as 'Kimjang, making and sharing kimchi in the Republic of Korea' in 2013. These cases show the necessity (or possibility) of cultural exchanges between the two Koreas through UNESCO ICH lists. The purpose of this article is to explore the possibility of inter-Korean cultural integration. Therefore, I would like to review UNESCO's ICH policy and examine the ways of cooperation and joint nominations to the Representative List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity between the two Koreas. First, I reviewed the amendments to the laws and regulations of the two Koreas and how the two countries applied the UNESCO Convention for the Safeguarding of the Intangible Cultural Heritage. Although the cultural exchange is a non-political field, given the situation between South and North Korea, it is influenced by politics. Therefore, we devised a stepwise development plan, divided into four phases: infrastructure development, cooperation and promotion, diversification, and policymaking and alternative development. First a target group will be needed. In this regard, joint nominations to the Representative List of the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity will be suitable for cooperation. Both countries have already started separate nominations on shared ICH elements to the UNESCO lists. Therefore, I have selected a few elements as examples that can be considered for joint nominations. The selected items are makgeolli (traditional liquor), jang (traditional soybean sauce), gayangju (homebrewed liquor), gudeul (Korean floor heating system), and jasu (traditional embroidery). Cooperation should start with sharing information on ICH elements. A pilot project for joint nomination can be implemented and then a mid-term plan can be established for future implementation. When shared ICH elements are inscribed on UNESCO ICH lists, various activities can be considered as follow-ups, such as institution visits, performances, exhibitions, and joint monitoring of the intangible cultural heritage. Mutual cooperation of the two Koreas' intangible cultural heritage will be a unique example between the divided countries, so its value will be recognized as a symbol of cultural cooperation. In addition, it will be a foundation for cultural integration of the two Koreas, and it will show the value of their unique ICH to the world. At the same time, it will become a good example for joint nominations to the Representative List recommended by UNESCO.

• MISULJARYO - National Museum of Korea Art Journal
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• v.97
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• pp.87-104
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• 2020

Myogilsang on Diamond Mountain, signed and dated (2000) by Seon-u Yeong (1946-2009), is the first work by a North Korean artist to enter the collection of the National Museum of Korea (fig. 1a). The donor acquired the painting directly from the artist in Pyeongyang in 2006. In consequence, there are no issues with the painting's authenticity.This painting is the largest among all existing Korean paintings, whether contemporary or from the Joseon Dynasty, to depict this iconography (see chart 1. A Chronological List of Korean Myogilsang Paintings.) It is ink and color on paper, measures 130.2 × 56.2 centimeters, and is in a hanging scroll format. Since this essay is intended as a brief introduction of the painting and not in-depth research into it, I will simply examine the following four areas: 1. Seon-u Yeong's background; 2. The location and the traditional appellation of the rock-cut image known as Myogilsang; 3. The iconography of the image; and 4) A comparative analysis of Seon-u Yeong's painting in light of other paintings on the same theme. Finally, I will present two more of his works to broaden the understanding of Seon-u Yeong as a painter. 1. Seon-u Yeong: According to the donor, who met Seon-u at his workshop in the Cheollima Jejakso (Flying Horse Workshop) three years before the artist's death, he was an individual of few words but displayed a firm commitment to art. His preference for subjects such as Korean landscapes rather than motifs of socialist realism such as revolutionary leaders is demonstrated by the fact that, relative to his North Korean contemporaries, he seems to have produced more paintings of the former. In recent years, Seon-u Yeong has been well publicized in Korea through three special exhibitions (2012 through 2019). He graduated from Pyeongyang College of Fine Arts in 1969 and joined the Central Fine Arts Production Workshop focusing on oil painting. In 1973 he entered the Joseon Painting Production Workshop and began creating traditional Korean paintings in ink and color. His paintings are characterized by intense colors and fine details. The fact that his mother was an accomplished embroidery specialist may have influenced on Seon-u's choice to use intense colors in his paintings. By 1992, he had become a painter representing the Democratic People's Republic of Korea with several titles such as Artist of Merit, People's Artist, and more. About 60 of his paintings have been designated as National Treasures of the DPRK. 2. The Myogilsang rock-cut image is located in the Manpok-dong Valley in the inner Geumgangsan Mountain area. It is a high-relief image about 15 meters tall cut into a niche under 40 meters of a rock cliff. It is the largest of all the rock-cut images of the Goryeo period. This image is often known as "Mahayeon Myogilsang," Mahayeon (Mahayana) being the name of a small temple deep in the Manpokdong Valley (See fig. 3a & 3b). On the right side of the image, there is an intaglio inscription of three Chinese characters by the famous scholar-official and calligrapher Yun Sa-guk (1728-1709) reading "妙吉祥"myogilsang (fig. 4a, 4b). 3. The iconography: "Myogilsang" is another name for the Bhodhisattva Mañjuśrī. The Chinese pronunciation of Myogilsang is "miaojixiang," which is similar in pronunciation to Mañjuśrī. Therefore, we can suggest a 妙吉祥 ↔ Mañjuśrī formula for the translation and transliteration of the term. Even though the image was given a traditional name, the mudra presented by the two hands in the image calls for a closer examination. They show the making of a circle by joining the thumb with the ring finger (fig. 6). If the left land pointed downward, this mudra would conventionally be considered "lower class: lower life," one of the nine mudras of the Amitabha. However, in this image the left hand is placed across its abdomen at an almost 90-degree angle to the right hand (fig. 6). This can be interpreted as a combination of the "fear not" and the "preaching" mudras (see note 10, D. Saunders). I was also advised by the noted Buddhist art specialist Professor Kim Jeong-heui (of Won'gwang University) to presume that this is the "preaching" mudra. Therefore, I have tentatively concluded that this Myogilsang is an image of the Shakyamuni offering the preaching mudra. There is no such combination of hand gestures in any other Goryeo-period images. The closest I could identify is the Beopjusa Rock-cut Buddha (fig. 7) from around the same time. 4. Comparative analysis: As seen in , except for the two contemporary paintings, all others on this chart are in ink or ink and light color. Also, none of them included the fact that the image is under a 40-meter cliff. In addition, the Joseon-period paintings all depicted the rock-cut image as if it were a human figure, using soft brushstrokes and rounded forms. None of these paintings accurately rendered the mudra from the image as did Seon-u. Only his painting depicts the natural setting of the image under the cliff along with a realistic rendering of the image. However, by painting the tall cliff in dark green and by eliminating elements on either side of the rock-cut image, the artist was able to create an almost surreal atmosphere surrounding the image. Herein lies the uniqueness of Seon-u Yeong's version. The left side of Seon-u's 2007 work Mount Geumgang (fig. 8) lives up to his reputation as a painter who depicts forms (rocks in this case) in minute detail, but in the right half of the composition it also shows his skill at presenting a sense of space. In contrast, Wave (fig. 9), a work completed one year before his death, displays his faithfulness to the traditions of ink painting. Even based on only three paintings by Seon-u Yeong, it seems possible to assess his versatility in both traditional ink and color mediums.

• The Journal of Natural Sciences
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• v.7
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• pp.133-162
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• 1995

Paderborn's companies, Wameling and Cassau, produce the liturgical vestments, which have much traditional artistic merit. And Kevelaerer Fahnen + Paramenten GmbH, located in Kevelater which is a place of pilgrimage of the Virgin Mary, was known to Europe, Africa, America and the Scandinavia Peninsula as the "Hidden Company" of liturgical vesments maker up to now. Paderborn and Kevelaer were the place of the center of the religious world and the Catholic ceremony during a good few centries. The Catholic liturgical vestiments of these 3 companies use versatile design, color, shape and techniques. These have not only the symbolism of religion, but also can meet our's expectations of utilization of modern textile art, art clothing and wide-all division of design. These give the understanding of symbolic meanings and harmony according to liturgical vestments to the believers. And these have an influence on mental thinking and induction of religious belief to the non-believers as the recognition and concerns about the religious art. The liturgical vestments are clothes which churchmen put on at the all ceremonial function of a mass, a sacrament, performance and a parade according to rules of church. These show the represen-tation of "Holy God" in silence and distinguish between common people and churchmen. And these represent a status and dignity of churchmen and induce majesty and respect to churchmen. Common clothes of the beginning of the Greece and Rome was developed to Christian clothes with the tendency of religion. There were no special uniforms distinguished from commen people until the Christianity was recognized officially by the Roman Emperor Constantinus at A.D.313. The color of liturgical vestments was originally white and changed to special colors according to liturgical day and each time by the Pope Innocentius at 12th century. The color and symbolic meaning of the liturgical vestments of present day was originated by the Pope St. Pius(1566-1572). Wool and Linen was used as decorations and materials in the beginnings and the special materials like silk was used after 4th century and beautiful materials made of gold thread was used at 12th century. It is expected that there is no critical changes to the liturgical vestments of future. But the development of liturgical vestments will continues slowly by the command of conservative church and will change to simple and convenient formes according to the culture, the trend of the times and the fashion of clothes. The companies of liturgical vestments develop versatile design, embroidery technique and realization of creative design for distinction of the liturgical vestments of each company and artistic progress. The cooperation of companies, artists and church will make the bright future of these 3 companies. We expect that our country will be a famous producing center of the liturgical vestments through the research and development of companies, participation of artists in religeous arts and concerts of church.