• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.15-33
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• 2011

The late $19^{th}$ and early $20^{th}$ centuries of Korea were the times when the Confucianism (牲理學) ideology was shaken heavily under the influences of modernism and capitalism by Western and Japanese military and political-economic forces. Under such circumstances, alteration of clothing was much influenced by ideologies than changes in social structure or technological advance. In this study, an ideology was defined as "the force which drives people into a particular social order". Ideologies were postulated as an ongoing process of socialization with dialectic features rather than being a static state. Comparative analyses on conflict structures and different clothing patterns symbolizing the ideologies of the Ruling (支配) and the Opposition (對抗) were conducted. Investigating dresses as representations of ideologies is to reconsider the notion of dichotomous confrontation between the conservatives (守舊派) and the progressives (開化派) and a recognition of Koreans' passively accepting modernity during the Japanese occupation. This may also have contributed to enlightening Koreans about modernization. Here are the results. First, the theoretical review found that ideologies were represented by not only symbols of discourse, but also dresses, and that dresses embodied both physical and conceptual systems presenting differences between ideologies and their natures, Second, during the late 19th century Korea, conflict between conservatives' Hanbok (韓服) and progressives' Western suits (洋服) was found. Moderate progressives showed their identity by "Colored Clothing" (深色衣), and radical progressives by black suits with short hair (黑衣斷髮) or by western suits (洋服). The ultimate goal of both parties was a "Modern Nation". With these efforts, pale jade green coats and traditional hats symbolizing the nobleman class was eliminated within 30 years from 1880 to 1910, and then simple robes and short hair emerged. However, the powerful Japanese army had taken over the hegemony of East Asia, and Korea was sharply divided into modernization and pro-Japanese camps. Third, during the time of Japanese colonial rule, the dress codes having set by the modernization policies during the time of enlightenment were abandoned and colonial uniforms for the colonial system was meticulously introduced. During this period, Western or Japanese-style uniforms were the symbol of the ruling ideology. In the mean time, Hanbok, particularly "White Clothing (白衣)", emerged as a representation of the opposition ideology. However, due to Japan's coercive power and strong zeal for "Great orient (大東亞)", white clothing remained as a mere symbol. Meanwhile, Reformists (實力養成論者) movement toward improving quality of life followed a similar path of the Japanese policies and was eventually incorporated into the ruling ideology. Fourth, dresses as representations of ruling ideologies were enforced by organizational powers, such as organizations and laws, and binding policies, and changes in such dresses were more significant when the ruling ideologies were stronger. Clothing of the opposition ideology was expressed as an aggregation of public consciousness. During the period, the subjects of ruling ideology and the objects who were granted modernization benefits were different although their drives for colored clothing with short hair (色衣斷髮) for modernization were similar.

• 공연문화연구
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• 제39호
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• pp.863-901
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• 2019

본고는 고대 서역의 석국(石國. Chach)의 민족무용인 <자지무>가 중원에 전파된 후 <쌍자지> 혹은 <굴자지>로 변용된 뒤 당송대에 고려에 유입되어 궁중의 당악정재 <연화대>로 변용된 아시아 전통춤의 전파 과정을 토대로 한 공연문화콘텐츠의 구축 사례를 돌이켜 고찰하였다. 본 프로젝트를 위해 서역, 중국, 한국의 고대 무용 전파와 관련된 광범위한 사료를 분석하는 사전 연구를 수행하였다. 나아가 사료의 한계를 극복하기 위해 다양한 경로를 통해 관련 도상, 동영상, 음원 자료들을 수집하여 공연 제작에 반영하였다. 사전 연구를 기반으로 각 분야 전문인력과의 협업을 통해 음악, 무용, 복식의 재구를 시도하고 그 결과를 공연으로 마무리한 제작 과정을 기술하였다. 나아가 프로젝트의 성과와 향후 활용방안을 제안하였다. 고증사료와 참여인력의 부족에 따른 한계에도 불구하고 고대 아시아 전통춤의 전파와 변용을 주제로 시도한 국내외 최초의 전통문화콘텐츠 구축 사례인 점에서 의의를 찾을 수 있다

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제16권5호
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• pp.1061-1068
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• 2007

The study has sought to explore how fashion emerges as a comprehensive tool of dress for increasing its brand appeal and express one's artistic sense and fashion by using everything from make-up to hair to trappings. Therefore, when it comes to fashion trends reflected in collections, the study is designed to improve understanding of make-up as one of the elements of total fashion and to help create diverse ideas in expressing creative and free make-up that can help perfect fashion concept in harmony with all the other elements. The study has pondered upon collection, trends and fashion make-up through literature study, and has gathered image data via the Internet. It also has conducted analysis of Ethnic style reconstructed combining past and the future, East and the West, and futurism style using asymmetrical forms without no defined patterns and hi-tech textures, which emerges as a result of post-modernism. The results of the study are as follows. Ethnic fashion that pursues strange and exotic beauty is characterized by its simple and idyllic images of traditional costume in Asia or primitive clothes in Africa. Make-up represent images of matt and pale skin, tanned yellow, glossy and thickly powered squeaky white skin. Point make-up highlighted eye lines, red chick, small and voluptuous red lips. Hair and accessory seeks diversity combining various ethnic styles together such as oriental, Indian, Islam and Africa. In addition, future-oriented fashion of the 21st century, twists in texture, various kinds of materials and changes in technique help give impressions of freedom and bizarreness.