• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.2
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• pp.101-110
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• 2009

This is a study regarding the development of cultural products with applied traditional Saekdong-image. The objective of this study is to develop unique cultural products which combine traditional korean images with modern feel by utilizing traditional Saekdong-image. Saekdong has been an object of deep attachment and regarded as a tool for expressing korean images from ancient times to the present. Chosun dynasty shows a wonderful growth of fashion not only in dress but also in such accessories as patchwork wrapping-cloth and Saekdong, which imply a lot on formation or color arrangement. Approximately 24 pieces of cultural products that can be used in daily life were created using Saekdong, including traffic or credit card cases, name card cases, pouches, coin purses, bags, Vest, teapot wrapping-cloth, brooch. After design plans were made for each works, natural dyes were used to dye(dip dyeing) the fabrics(cotton, silk, linen) by theme. In addition, the increased quality of the products will be a competitive edge in the world market where products compete with no national bounds.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.1053-1062
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• 2007

This study purposed to restructure representative traditional patterns formatively, manufacture actual cultural products with traditional dyeing technique using persimmon, and commercialize the results of the research. Traditionally in Korea, the dying of natural fiber such as cotton, flax and silk with persimmon was called Galmul dyeing, and clothes made through Galmul dyeing were called Galot. Galot was very useful because it is strong, does not pick up dirt easily, dries easily, and is cool in summer. In addition, cloth dyed with persimmon becomes stiff, so it does not need to be starched or ironed after washing. Moreover, it does not transmit heat under direct rays and is highly air-permeable, so it is cool and useful for standing the heat. In this study, we used traditional persimmon dyeing technique, printing traditional patterns fit for contemporary people's aesthetic sense not through dip-dying but through printing. When persimmon dyeing is used in expressing patterns, it produces not only visual effect but also embossing effect due to the characteristic of persimmon that makes printed patterns stiff, so we can obtain unique texture distinguished from other printing methods. We chose seven motive patterns, which were lotus pattern symbolizing eternal life, peony pattern symbolizing wealth and rank and prosperity, character Su(壽) pattern widely used as a symbol of health, bird and cloud pattern in the Goryeo Dynasty, Sahapyeoeuisohwa(四合如意小花) pattern printed on brocade in the Goryeo Dynasty, lattice pattern, cloth pattern on wall paintings from the Period of the Three Kingdoms. From each pattern chosen as a motive was extracted unit patterns and the original pattern was restored using Adobe Illustrator. Restored patterns were restructured to be applied to cultural products fit for contemporary formative sense. Fabrics used in dyeing were cotton, linen, ramie, silk, and polyester. Although the same persimmon dyeing was applied, we produced different feelings of patterns using various fabrics and in some cases gold and silver powder was added for the effect of gloss in addition to the embossing of patterns. Using printed fabrics we manufactured tea pads, place mats, cushions, wrapping cloth for gifts, wallet, lampshades.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.4 s.152
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• pp.507-518
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• 2006

This study aims to prove that traditional patchwork wrapping cloth can be a creative motive for modem fashion, and the application of it can be a way of expressing not only the pride in our cultural heritage but also the originality of fashion design. The analysis of the plasticity of 108 patchwork wrapping clothes has come up with the following findings: Firstly, the plane structure consists of 41 basic forms and 67 applied ones. Secondly, 61 contrast color harmony and 47 similarity color harmony. Thirdly, the fabric consists of 88 silk clothes, 19 ramie clothes, and 1 silk and ramie cloth. Fourthly, 47 unlined clothes and 61 lined ones. The study also expresses the analyzed plasticity of patchwork wrapping cloth for fashion with the following findings: Firstly, basic plane structures, contrast color harmony, silk cloth and the press flower coating technique become one piece dress to express splendid and elegant image. Secondly, application plane structures, similarity color harmony of natural dyeing method using persimmon, ramie cloth and the press flower coating and over lock technique become a jacket and a blouse to express calm and dynamic image. Thirdly, the needling and over lock technique used to patch clothes has become a desirable way to express fabric with unique surface effects. Fourthly, the press flower coating which modernizes embroidery in patchwork wrapping. cloth has become a new technique which can create high values with its extended the visual effects of the material. Fifthly, Patchwork wrapping cloth in Chosun Dynasty has now become a motive for modem fashion design to express tradition and creation.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.871-886
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to understand the culture on the Traditional Wedding of the West Gyeong Nam District. The traditional wedding was characterized that the bridegroom visited his bride's house accompanied by his honored guests(上客) and the marriage ceremony was to be held in day time, and then the bridegroom became a son-in-law and stayed with the family for a few days. The bridegroom returned to his home, leaving his bride behind. After a certain period, the bride came to her husband's home as a daughter-in-law. The Traditional Wedding costume of the bridegroom were Samo-Gwandae. The coat (outside uniform) was blue Danryeong ornamented with two cranes figured Hyong-Bae and Heukgackdae. In case Samo-Gwandae was not available, Dopo or Durumakie could be substituted and they put on shoes in this case. A bridegroom put on Mokhwa his feet and under the Samo, and he also put on Nambawie or Bokguen. He put on Dopo or Haeng-eui(行衣) or Durumaki under the blue Danryeong. The bride put on Wonsam and Chokduri or Hwagwan on her hair. In case Wonsam was not available, Chima Jogori style or imitational Wonsam, which was roughly sewed with red cloth and blue cloth contained in the Honsuham (Box of wedding treasure), could be substituted. She put on Hyang-guen to protect her body against the coldness and to hide her face.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.24-34
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• 2007

The shroud of the Chosun dynasty period originally meant the new start in the next world. Its basic principle was to wear the best clothes or wedding garments during one's life. The white hemp cloth-shroud worn during this time was formed after the 20th century. In the beginning it started simply by imitating the shroud of the common people. However recently many aspects of the trade have deteriorated by the commercialism of the shroud traders. So this study focuses on the way of keeping traditions and making the shroud desirable. First, the shroud was made of the best materials such as silk, hemp cloth, ramie cloth and cotton cloth in the past. A thought that the shroud material must be white hemp cloth is the result from misunderstanding of the traditional shroud of the Chosun dynasty period. We can produce beautiful shrouds using natural materials without losing dignity and at diverse prices. Second, the shroud was produced not only to keep the dignity of a dead person but also to avoid wasting the original cloth. Third, The shroud has pursued diversity in classifying the traditional style or the basic style. It is possible to select the shroud flexibly according to one's sense of values or the way the tomb was made. These days, the Korean full-dress attire and Wonsam (Korean woman's ceremonial clothes) are the standardized form of the ready-made shroud. The man's Korean full-dress attire on sale is sewn in the wrong way and its shape looks more like the Wonsam. I offer diverse shrouds of the Chosun dynasty period, for example, the official uniform, hemp cloth upper garment, men's black upper garment, Korean full-dress attire, Korean overcoat, Wonsam, the long hood worn by a Korean woman and a woman's long upper garment, so that we can see the Korean originality and beauty through the different types of shrouds. Also, I adjusted a number of items, undergarments and other articles according to the price. As mentioned before this study helps to portray a desirable understanding of the culture of the shroud. So I corrected many problems of the present shroud and propose a new type of shroud based on tradition. Furthermore, I recommend a way of making use of the Hanbok which the man wears during his life, at the wedding ceremony or a his 60th birthday without buying a new shroud.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.197-207
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• 2013

The gas acceleration test was conducted to identify the deterioration of Korean traditional textiles caused by $NO_2$. Total 20 specimens were prepared using 4 different materials (silk, cotton, ramie, hemp) after dyeing with 5 colors (undyed, red, yellow, blue, black). The specimens were exposed to 0.01, 0.1, 1, 10, 100, and 1000 ppm $NO_2$ gas in the test chamber at $20^{\circ}C$, 50% RH for 1 day. Optical, chemical, and physical evaluation was carried out after the exposure. In the case of Korean traditional textile, color difference increased at 1 ppm/day, $NO_3{^-}$ concentration, carbonyl and C-$NO_2$ functional group increased while pH decreased at 10 ppm/day and tensile strength weakened at 100 ppm/day. when it comes to undyed textile, alteration of color difference on silk and hemp cloth, $NO_3{^-}$ concentration and tensile strength on hemp cloth was remarkable. In addition, color difference on blue and yellow textile, $NO_3{^-}$ concentration increase of yellow textile and tensile strength decrease of hemp cloth & ramie cloth were significant. The results suggest that critical $NO_2$ concentration of optical, chemical, and physical damage on Korean traditional textiles are 1ppm/day, 10 ppm/day, 100 ppm/day respectively.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.69-74
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• 2008

In this paper, a comfort evaluation system based on a product-focused process design (PFPD) has been proposed for high comforts interior seat covers. Correlations between comforts properties and physical/thermal properties of interior seat covers were examined by combining traditional regression analysis and data mining techniques. A skin sensorial comfort of leather samples was evaluated by only human tactile sensation. The adjectives of leather car seat covers are 'Soft', 'Sticky' and 'Elastic'. Thermo-physiological comfort properties of leather samples were evaluated by only human tactile sensation. The adjectives of leather car seat covers are 'Coolness to the touch' and 'Thermal and humid'. Skin sensorial comforts of cloth samples were evaluated by only human tactile sensation. The adjectives of cloth car seat covers are 'Soft', 'Smooth', 'Voluminous' and 'Elastic'. Thermo-physiological comforts of cloth samples were evaluated by only human tactile sensation. The adjectives of cloth car seat covers are 'Coolness to the touch' and 'Thermal and humid'.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.3
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• pp.133-148
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• 2017

The purpose of this paper is to develop waist coat designs that can be worn in the present day by researching design techniques and traditional waist coat forms shown on Korean patchworks called 'Jokakbo', which was commonly used in our traditional culture. By selecting patchwork as the primary motive in particular. The Bojaki, also known as deungguhli or baeguhli(背巨里), gives off a natural and vibrant color sensation. A new design that could be practically worn with modern clothing was developed by sufficiently reflecting this color sensation as well as the aesthetic quality of its geometric shape. On the basis of theoretical consideration of traditional cloth and vest, total of 7 points were designed and produced. These works contain diverse application of the traditional Bojaki and vest. The design of the Bojaki grants rhythmic sense to the side where diverse colors and formative patterns shown on the cloth can be seen as monotonous. The entire side opening of the traditional waistcoat can cover multiple sizes. Depending on the movement, the front and back naturally spreads. The vest can also be worn in layers or used as a cotton quilt depending on the season. And after minimal design alterations, it will be possible to wear the vest with diverse modern clothing due to its straight line and form.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.65-80
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• 1999

In this study, the researcher studied the historical background and the traditional culture about dress and ornament of Yunnan Province of China. The Results of the study are as follows. 1. In the Past, Derung's dress was very simple due to the influence of various factors, such as geography and history. Men wore shorts and covered diagonally a piece of cloth from left shoulders to right armpits and tied up the two ends on chests. Women covered crisscross two pieces of cloth from both shoulders to knee. 2. Achang people's dress and adornment has its own unique characteristic. Generally, men wear Jackets with buttons down the front and black trousers. Unmarried men like to wear white turbans, while most of married men usually wear dark blue ones. Women usually wear tight-sleeve blouses with buttons down the front and skirts. Unmarried women wear the hair in braids coil them on the top of their heads. They wear short blouses and trousers. Married women wear their hair Into buns and like to entwine black or blue cloth into high trubans. They wear short blouses and knee-length straight skirts. Achang knife enjoys high reputation and has a long history and an exquisite workmanship. All the men like to wear it. 3. The dress and adornment of the Lahu nationality has both the characteristic of farming culture and the style of nomadic culture of early times. Men usually wear short shirts with round necks and buttons down the front, loose-legged trousers, turbans or dark blue cloth caps Women's dress and adornment can be categorized into two styles. One is black cloth gown with buttons diagonally on the right front and waist-length slits on both sides. The edges of fronts and cuffs are edged with Silver ornaments and lace. They also wear trousers. The other is short blouse with round neck and short opening on th right front, straight skirt and colourful leggings with embroidered patterns. 4. The Hani people, men and women, old and young, like black colour and are fond of wearing black clothes. Men usually wear shirts with buttons down the front and trousers, entwining their heads with black or white cloth. The elderly people wear calottes. Women wear cloth blouses, skirts and trousers or shorts. Slight differences exist in the clothing and adornments according to region, branch and age 5. Blang people's dyeing technique with an exquisite method has a long history. Men wear dark blue long sleeve shirts with round necks and buttons down the front or arranged diagonally on the front and loose-legged trousers. Elderly men wear big turbans wdress and adornment varies greatly in different regions. 6. The Lisu people culture of dress and adornment has some unique characteristics. The styles and colours of their dress and adornment differ slightly from place to place. In the Nujiang area, Women wear black velvet Jackets over blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and long pleated ramie skirts. Men usually wear wraparound ramie gowns, with center vent, made of fabrics alternated with white and black cross stripes. They also wear cloth waistbands and trohile youngsters keep their hair short. Women's users. In the Lushui area, the dress and adornment is similar to that in the Nujing region, but women wear aprons and trousers instead of skirts. 7. The Nu people dress and adornment is simple but elegant Women are proficient in ramie-weaving. Men usually wear gowns With overlapping necks, knee-length trousers and leggings. They like to wear their hair long and entwine dark blue or white turbans. Women wear black and red vests over blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and ankle-length skirts. They also wear their hair long, make it into braids, and entwine dark blue or colourful cloth turbans. 8. Pumi men usually wear ramie shirts With buttons arranged diagonally on the right front, loose trousers and white sheepskin vests. Some also wear overcoats made of "pulu". Women's dress and adornment varies in different areas. In the Lanping and Weixi regions, women wear white short blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the front and dark brown embroidered vests. They also wear trousers and blue or black cloth turbans. In the Ninglang and Yongsheng regions, women wear hemmed blouses With buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and drape sheepskin capes. They also wear white pleated skirts and use broad colourful cloth as their waistbands.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.3
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• pp.145-159
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• 2000

The first introduction of reformed Korean traditional cloth in was started in the age of civilization and until liberation from imperialism it was made a reformation in faculty from Korean traditional clothing. And by 1980s western style costume took lead but after Asian Game in 1986 and Seoul Olympic in 1988 Korean traditional beauty was added to costume and there were various attempt to produce truly reformed Korean traditional clothing. The present condition of reformed Korean traditional clothing in 1990s are like this : 1) Most of reformed Korean traditional clothing ships could not fractionalize customers. So it needs to subdivide and specialize customer and investment to improvement of design. 2) A large percentage of reformed Korean traditional clothing is ordinary dresses. So it should develop various sorts and color, design and textile and be in harmony with international trend. 3) Most of shops handled a coordinate goods like a bag and shoes. 4) In the investigation customers they wanted various colors, high quality in design , logical price and a periodical sale. So four pieces of the reformed Korean traditional costumes were designed and produced based on the present condition.