• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.24 no.4
• /
• pp.117-133
• /
• 2022

In order to reflect traditional elements in modern design, designers should be able to creatively apply elements of traditional Chinese clothing. To understand this, a deep understanding of and insights into the traditional clothing culture are required. In this study, the characteristics of traditional Chinese women's clothing from the Wei, Jin, and Northern and Southern Dynasties of China to the Qing Dynasty were analyzed by dividing them into silhouette, color, pattern, materials, and detail. The characteristics of the silhouette were classified into A, H, X, and O types, of which types A and H were the most common. As for the color characteristics, there are relatively many five cardinal colors, and for the contrast of colors complementary colors were mainly used. As the for pattern characteristics, real patterns, animal patterns, character patterns, geometric patterns, and mixed patterns were used. Four types of materials were mainly used: silk, hemp, cotton, and wool. The detail characteristics were also anlyzed by classifying them into collar, sleeve, neckband, and gusset. Based on the results of this analysis, a satisfaction survey was conducted on the design of modern Chinese women's clothing. The result of satisfaction with design elements showed that the images of vest and suit were most preferred, H and X silhouettes, and yellow and white were the most preferred. Geometric and plant patterns were preferred, as were silk and acetate materials. Based on the result of chi-square analysis of design element preferences according to the characteristics of the subject, there was no difference according to occupation, residential area, or income, and there were differences in silhouette, color, materials, and detail according to age.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.16 no.5
• /
• pp.891-909
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study was to examines the changes in Chinese women's clothing resulted from the introduction of Western culture in the first hal# of the 20th century in terms of Chinese view of the world and their attitude towards European culture. The clothes are divided into four types according to their characteristics : traditional Chinese type, China-Europe adjustment type, China-Europe blend type and European type. As for the research method, both literature and visual data are examined. The traditional Chinese type showed changes only in the width and length retaining the features of the traditional qipao until the 1910s. The China-Europe adjustment type used the same flat pattern making of traditional Chinese dress while imitating only the appearances of European one-piece, two-piece and three-piece dresses. It also was presented with European accessaries and hair-styles. The China-Europe blend type, starting to appear with the introduction of the three-dimensional pattern making from the Europe in the 1930s, showed a perfect mixture of European and traditional Chinese costumes in the early 1940s when the Chinese learned and adapted the European pattern making. The European type was the most modernized designs using a variety of European-style details and constructions as the traditional clothing started to have unrestricted European-style changes. Great significance can be found in the fact that the Chinese modified their garments by themselves using the pattern mating they learned from the Europe.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.52 no.5
• /
• pp.15-30
• /
• 2002

The purposes of this study were to identify the Chinese university students' clothing attitudes and purchasing behavior according to their lifestyle. Questionnaires developed by researcher were distributed and collected from 540 Chinese university students from Mar. 5 to Mar. 20, 2001. Means, frequencies, and percentages were calculated. Factor analysis, cluster analysis. one-way ANOVA, and Chi-square test were used for data analysis. And Duncan's multiple range test was followed. The factors of lifestyle were consumption, self-confidence, economy, accomplishment. sociability. fashionability, individuality, and conservation. Chinese university students were segmented into 4 groups of the modern sociable, the passive stagnated, the positive progresive, and the traditional conservative. The group size of the modem sociable was the smallest, and the traditional conservative was the largest. Chinese university students considered sexual attractiveness of clothing most important. Psychological dependence and ostentation of clothing were next important in a decending order. The passive stagnated considered conformity of clothing most important and showed the opposite tendency of the modern socialable. The positive progressive considered all aspects of clothing attitudes important, and showed the opposite tendency of the traditional conservative. Chinese university students utilized direct fashion information sources, and patronized medium or small size department store or traditional market.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.41 no.3
• /
• pp.407-419
• /
• 2017

Based on clothing prohibition modelling characteristics, this paper studies historical costumes through the traditional Chinese historical dramas of the 'Kang-Qian' heyday during the 'Qing Dynasty'; represents the research object as a representative Chinese historical drama. This paper systematically analyzed the utilization and reflection of royal women clothing prohibition. The results of the study are as follows. The royal women clothing prohibition of this drama shows three aspects of characteristics found in traditional Chinese costume modeling. First, some special colors that integrated ancient and modern styles were mainly used in this drama such as champagne color, wine color, and macaron color. Second, it mainly utilized the modelling of modern artificial pigments and floral patterns that are different from Chinese traditional female costumes of the 'Qing Dynasty'. Third, stage costumes for this drama are focused more on using a personality method to reflect the beauty of each actress by the application of individual elements. This study analyzed and studied the clothing prohibition of female costume from to show the traditional Chinese costume prohibition in a Chinese historical drama as well as reveal a few aspects of traditional female costume characteristics in the 'Kang-Qian' heyday during the 'Qing Dynasty'. This study examined traditional female costumes characteristics in modern historical dramas based on different figures and dynasties as well as discussed the factors at a deeper level and from varied aspects.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.16 no.4
• /
• pp.661-680
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study is to examine to change in the Chinese women's clothing according to the inflow of Western culture in the first half of the both century As for the research method, both literature and visual data are reviewed. Research results are as follows: The Step of transition in clothing by period followed beginning stage, adopted stage, early developed stage, fully developed stage, and static stage. fully developed stage showed a perfect compromise while being applied to Chinese costume with being introduced a three-dimensional cutting method of western clothing even to the constitution as well as to the appearance. Design elements from western clothing are as follows. The transition of silhouette is box silhouette, trapeze silhouette, shift silhouette, and fitted silhouette. In detail and trimming, tailored, band, convertible, shirts collar and zigzag, scallop, camisole neckline and puff, cap sleeve and flounced, bell shaped cuffs and western button, zipper, etc. are adopted. Finally, the Chinese modern style are formed by accepting and transforming the western clothing based on the traditional Chinese clothing.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.23 no.6
• /
• pp.955-971
• /
• 2015

The purpose of this study is to consider the design characteristics of Chinese traditional clothing, especially from the Ming-Qing Dynasty era, and how they have influenced contemporary fashion. Regarding research methods, this study determined the design characteristics, such as the form, color and pattern of Chinese traditional clothing of the Ming-Qing Dynasty era. In addition, 440 photos were collected from the Paris Collection from 2005 to 2014 using www.firstviewkorea.com. The results of this study are as follows. First, the most popular silhouette from Chinese traditional clothing appearing in contemporary fashion was the H-shaped one, and the internal lines appeared in the following order: Chinese collar; narrow sleeve; symmetrical front opening; round collar; wide sleeve; and the C-shaped Biwa front-end. Second, the most popular color was achromatic black, followed by white. The chromatic colors were in the order of blue, yellow, red, green, and purple. Third, the patterns appeared in the following order: Plant patterns, complex patterns, and animal patterns. The peony pattern appeared the most commonly as a plant pattern, followed by the arabesque pattern and the plum blossom pattern which appeared with a similar proportion. Dragon, bird and phoenix patterns appeared the most for animal patterns. It is considered that the results of this study will be helpful for designing products for Korean fashion brands that will advance to the Chinese market. In addition, it will help Chinese designers apply the Chinese-style design characteristics popular among people throughout the world when they advance to the West.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.15 no.3
• /
• pp.51-66
• /
• 2011

The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of the traditional color sentiment on the contemporary clothing color by studying the pictures of street fashion of Dalian in China, in view of the clothing color of women in their 20-30 years of age having highest purchasing power, along with traditional Chinese color. The clothing color is various in frequency depending on the items in street fashion. Due to the seasonal impact of summer, the most frequent item was one-piece dress with the Multi of various color patterns, followed by White, Black, PB, R and B category. In the top color, the White was most prevalent color due to the seasonal factor, followed by Black, Grey, Multi, R, Y, RP category. Achromatic color is more dominant with the ratio of 7:3, comparing with its counterpart, which consists of R and Y category of V, B, P, VP tone. In the bottom color, Dp tone of PB shows most high frequency, followed by Black. This results illustrate that Chinese women prefer blue jeans and to be looked as slimmer by using of the dark colors. In the accessories, colors of bags and shoes show different results. The bag colors show the high frequency of Dk tone, YR category, and the chromatic colors are little bit dominant than achromatic ones with the ratio of 5.3:4.7. On the contrary, the shoes colors show the highest frequency in Black, the achromatic colors are more dominant than chromatic ones with the ratio of 6.6:3.4. These results somewhat diverge from the international color trend. Color trend in Dalian street fashion in which the high frequency of V tone is observed through all the colors of the items followed by P, VP, Lgr tone in sequence. In the light of Chinese traditional color preference, this result denotes that the traditional color preferences of red, yellow are still affecting the contemporary color choices of clothing in Chinese women. The high incidence of PB category in the bottom and one-piece dress does not seem to have its origin form traditional Chinese color sentiment.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.15 no.5
• /
• pp.161-177
• /
• 2011

The purpose of this research is to analyze the effect of the traditional color sentiment on the contemporary clothing color by researching the street fashion of 2010 Winter season of Dalian in China, in view of the clothing color of women in their 20-30 years of age, along with traditional Chinese color. This is the 2nd paper following the paper no. 1, focusing on 2010 Summer season, so the research method is same as the paper no. 1. As a result, Black and deep tone PB color most frequently appeared. The vivid and strong tone of R, YR, Y color showed high frequency of clothing colors. This results illustrate that the clothing color choices of Chinese women was affected by Chinese traditional color sentiment rather than the international color trend. Characteristically, in winter season, frequency of R and Y color categories were higher than in summer season, specially in the top and accessories color, those colors showed higher frequency than the other colors. These were the important points in dealing with winter color trend, so that the fashion company and brands should take it an important points when they are planning winter clothing colors. The achromatic colors show the high frequency in both seasons. The bottom color shows high incidence of Black and deep tone of PB color categories as in the previous researches. That means consistent color trend existed in Dalian city, however it does not seem to have its origin from traditional Chinese color preferences. This kinds of regional and seasonal research might contribute to finding the basic informations about the design and marketing strategies to launch into the Chinese fashion market.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.34 no.12
• /
• pp.2006-2021
• /
• 2010

An authentic national spirit in media (particularly films), traditional images, and color preferences is expressed through movies that are melted in local traditions. This study suggests a direction regarding the characteristics for historical costumes by examining traditional color images and cultural preference in the Chinese film (1987), a representative film that deals with Chinese history and traditions. This movie can illustrate the correlation between the temporal backgrounds and the costumes in the movie with the criteria of Eastern color systems. The results of this research are summarized as follows. First, the image of Chinese traditional colors represented in many parts of and the cultural preferences that underlies their works through the expression of traditional colors. The scenes of traditional costumes and colors express the visual embodiments of the costumes that reflect a specific status, ceremony, or ritual. Second, the traditional colors used in the movie are based on the Yin-Yang theory. Particularly, Red, Yellow, Black is mostly used for ordinary clothing. Third, there are some differences in the use of color arrangements, that change regarding the use of traditional colors according to images and situations that follow the intention of the director. Planning the color arrangements is considered an engaging connectivity between traditions and images in the movie and it is extended or reduced based on cultural preferences. Fourth, the increase and decrease of color arrangements is distinctively represented as the story of the movie proceeds.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.19 no.2
• /
• pp.376-388
• /
• 2011

The purpose of this study is to examine the types and characteristics of Chinese indigo dyed designs performed until today in private houses of Chinese minority races and to examine the modern value of traditional dyeing crafts of minority races by investigating the cases of utilizing modern private Chinese indigo dyed designs. As the research methodology for theoretical study about the history of Chinese traditional pattern dyeing, the origin, types and characteristics of Chinese indigo dyed designs, the preceding research data, photo data, and Internet data were utilized, and for the empirical research on Chinese traditional dyeing techniques and the cases of utilizing today Chinese indigo dyed designs, the on-site survey on Guizhou and Yunnan was conducted during February and March 2008 and the data were collected and analyzed. Based on the results of this research, it was found that Chinese indigo dyed designs represented Chinese traditional pattern dyeing, which was inherited and developed mainly in Chinese minority races and Chinese. It could be seen that according to geographical distribution and characteristics of each race, the types and characteristics of dyeing techniques were formed, which are classified into the batik of the Miao of Guizhou in the Chinese southwestern region, the tie-dyeing of Bai of Yunnan, and Chinese blue calico(resist printing) of Chinese private houses in the Hunan and Huseo regions, and these represent the three typical Chinese dyeing techniques today. Based on the results of empirical research on the utilizing cases, focusing on the traditional living handicrafts of Chinese minority races, traditional cultural articles, and artworks, the modern values such as practical, cultural, and artistic values of Chinese indigo dyed designs could be rediscovered.