• 복식
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• 제56권7호
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• pp.1-17
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• 2006

This study purposed to examine Korean people's white clothes custom historically and to explain the aesthetic consciousness latent in the custom. Korean people preferred white clothes, even up to foreigners called them White-clad folk. Not only as in old historical literatures, but also in Soo-suh, Shin-Dang-suh including Sam-Kuk-Ji in China, white clothes were a real symbol to Korean people, ranging chronically far back to the age of ancient tribal countries, Sam-Kuk Period through Koryo Dynasty and even to modern age near the end of Chosun Dynasty, wearing with pleasure regardless of age, sex or social position. Even King himself in Koryo Dynasty is said to have worn white clothes when he was out of official hours. During the Koryo and Chosun Dynasty, white clothes were sometimes prohibited for various reasons including conflicts with the theories of yin-yang and the five elements but such regulations were not effective. To Korean people, white clothes were ordinary people's everyday dress as well as noble people's plain suits, saints' uniforms with religious meanings, ceremonial costumes, funeral garments, etc. The various uses show that white clothes have been worn by many people. The unique custom that a People have worn white clothes consistently for such a long time may contain very deep symbolic meanings representing the people's sentiments and spirits. The present study understood that the meanings come from religious sacredness, magical wish for brightness, the pursuit of purity originating from the people's national traits, assimilation with nature and the will to attain whole ascetic personality. Aesthetic attitudes based on aesthetic values summed up as sacredness, brightness, purity, assimilation with nature, asceticism, etc. are the aesthetic consciousness pursued by Koreans through their white clothes. For Koreans, white color is the origin of their color sense coming from primitive religions such as worshipping the sun and the heaven. In this way, Korean people's preference for white clothes began with primitive religions, was mixed with various social, cultural and religious influences and finally was settled as their durable spirit, symbol and beauty.

• 복식
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• 제64권1호
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• pp.152-164
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• 2014

Korean people have revered the white color and enjoyed wearing white clothes. Various kinds of white clothes have been worn by the Korean people, ranging from everyday wear(便服), and scholar's robe(深衣) for the upper class, to religious costumes like Buddhist monk's robe(僧服), shaman costumes(巫服) and costumes for ancestral rites(祭服), or mourning(喪服). There have been many differing opinions by historians regarding the background of this Baekeuihosang(白衣好尙, the preference for white clothing) tradition and even now, it is frequently being discussed. This study aims to consider and discuss the background of this Baekeuihosang tradition, focusing on Chang-seon Yoo's Baekeuigo(白衣考, the consideration of white clothing), which was published in Dong-A Ilbo in 1934. The purposes of studying literature such as the Baekeuigo is to analyze the arguments on the origin of Baekeuihosang, to analyze Chang-seon Yoo's claim of its origin, and to discuss the culture of Baekeuihosang. Chang-seon Yoo claimed that the existing discussions on the background of Baekeuihosang based on the lack of dyes, or undeveloped technique, economic privation and national control strayed from historical facts, according to literature review. It is not worth discussing the farfetched arguments such as the use of costumes for ancestral rites as everyday wears, or the nation of sorrow. Baekeuihosang tradition mostly originated from the effects of many religions and the taste for innocence, or naturalness. White clothes were infused with the sorrow and emotion of Korean people and were also worn to show resistance to foreign power as symbols of ethnicity. Therefore, there should be a new view of the discussion of white clothes and Korean aesthetic sense, away from the logic distorted by the Japanese colonial view of history.

• 비교문화연구
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• 제25권
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• pp.267-290
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is examining a circulation and conflict of concepts and logics of the $Chos{\check{o}}n$-ness by analysing the $Chos{\check{o}}n$ national character and $Chos{\check{o}}n$ aesthetic consciousness. As entering the modern period, we understood the nations as a unit of the artistic awareness. So, national art is defined as a national character expression from this period. The $Chos{\check{o}}n$ aesthetic consciousness by raising in this period, which is connected with the discourse of national character, carry out a discussional practice defining the Korean originality. However, there is a circulation and conflict of concepts and logics about the $Chos{\check{o}}n$ aesthetic consciousness in the process of a discussion. For the most representative examples are 'the white-clad folk' and 'the beauty of sorrow'. An Hwak and Yanagi Muneyoshi are representative debaters who try to establish the $Chos{\check{o}}n$-ness and their discussion supports these facts. As An Hwak regressing of the respect for high antiquity, he demolished the historical character from the $Chos{\check{o}}n$-ness and overlooked aesthetic differences by a periodical change. Yanagi Muneyoshi totally separates arts from politics and disposes of Korean arts in an abstract timeless-space. The function of such an early-modern period's discourse about $Chos{\check{o}}n$ aesthetic consciousness is that $Chos{\check{o}}n$ national character makes the dehistoricization and depoliticization.

• 복식
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• 제19권
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• pp.83-103
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• 1992

This thesis researched the ritual dress of Korean new religions such as Suungyo, Mirubulgyo, Taejonggyo and WonBuddhism, According to kind, color, cloth and shape this thesis analyzed the ritual dress of them on the basis of its literatures. I. The results of the ritual dress of them through its literatures are as follows: 1. In case of Suungyo, there are Songwansonbok, Togwandobok, Pulmogwan, Ch'onui, Chap'ae , Yukhwangang, Pobdae, Hakp'yo and Kyonjang in its kind. In its color there are Huk, Cha, Hoe, Chahwang, Hong, Paek, Hwang, ROk, and Nam. Chemical fiber with one layer is used in its cloth. Its shape is made by a comprise between the feature of Korean dress, chuui and that of the existing dress of Confucianim, Buddhism and Taoism. 2. In case of Mirukbulgyo, Inhwag-wan, Chongbok, P'oui, Tae, Moson, Yomju and tanju are systematized in its kind. In its color there are Paek, Huk, ch'ong,Chok, Ok and Rok, Kongdan and chemical fiber with one layer are used in its cloth. Its shape has a symbolic form of Yu'Pul and son based upon Korean dress, Chuui. In its symbol Inhwagwan symbolized Confucianism and Chongbok Taoism and P'oui Buddhism. 3. In case of Taejonggyo, there are Chusabok, Sjhobok, Yewonbok, Chusamo, Yewonmo, Tae and Hwa in its kind. In its color there are Paek(main one), Nam, Huk, Chaju, Chok, Hwang and Hoe. Kongdan with both sides is elaborately used in its cloth. Its shape thken from Korean dress means the succession of the national spirit of the white-clad folk. 4. In case of won Buddhism, there are kybok and Pobrak in its kind. In its color there are Paek, Huk and Hoe---especially, both Hwangt'o and Hwang are used in Pobrak, Anyone can use cloth at his will. In its shape Kyoblk for man is Yangbok and Kyobok for woman is Tongch'ima and Chogori, a style of Korean dress. Pobrak is a form Tanryong worm with Rakja.