• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.99-113
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• 2018

In this study, the reality of international Gothic style was examined through the representative art of the period, such as paintings, architecture and tapestries. In particular zones of the body were examined by applying Harold Koda's methods of discussing extreme beauty to study the phenomena and characteristics of extremes in late Gothic costumes. This arrived at the following conclusions concerning the phenomena and characteristics of the extreme appearing in the late Gothic costumes. First, a mechanism of body transformation to reach the ideal and desired form of a human. Second, the complicated and various extremeness of the whole human body. Third, the reflection of 'elaborate and secular excess, decorative taste of international Gothic style. Fourth, a early advanced case of the Trickle-down fashion and international sensation. Fifth, the aesthetic insight into 'ugliness', ever pursued in 'extreme beauty'. The researcher expects that the results of this study will contribute to the preparation to renew the significance of, and to restore the status of the late Gothic costumes, in terms of costume history, that has been considered as an age of the bizarre tastes.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.523-531
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• 2001

The objective of this study was to trace the origins of the costume terminologies and to identify the meanings of the names of costumes of the Chosun Period. Such terms as dukgai 得盖, murot gai 무롯지 or murukai 무루깨, bal 발, bigya 비갸, bium 비음, samachi 사마치, chiene 처네, chienui 薦衣 were included in this research can be summarized as follows: It appeared that similar words to dukagai were found in the languages such as the language of the arctic regions, Mongolians, English, Sumerian, and Latin. It is considered that dukgai of Chosun was related to L. toga. The word murot gai or murukai as a kind of head covering had its origins in Korean meaning to cover or to wear. Also it was found that the word bal was derived from L.palla meaning a robe, cloak or mantle. Korean bal 발 meant a dang jugori 당저고리 or dang go ui, a kind of women\`s formal outer dress. It was found that word bium or biim, a garment of Yi Chosun was similar to Ass. birmu, a garment. The word, samachi of Yi Chosun was derived from the Manchurien word samachi meaning a kind of military skirt. The word, chiene 처네 or chienui was derived from the Chinese chien (Equatopms. See Full-text) that means a skirt, a child\`s covering, a sheet, and women\`s underwear.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.5
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• pp.17-28
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• 2001

The purposes of this study were to arrange and analyze the Oriental Mode in 20th century fashion and to clarify that Oriental dress and its ornaments appearing as the main subject of Occident fashion gradually The results were as follows : First, Oriental Mode in 1900-1950s was prescribed as the 'Orientalism' to be expressed Occidental imperialistic viewpoint. Therefore, the Orient was used as the simple recording mark of the imperialism product or commercial motive and it was reflected in fashion. Second, it was explained in 1960-1970s as the 'Folklore Orientalism' that focus was moved into the folklore costume of Orient. Third, in 1980s, 'Ethnic' was conspicuous that reflected the traditional costume in the area of non-christianity. Especially, it was the decade that the Middle East attracted attention. Fourth, Oriental Mode in 1990s appeared as the 'Fusion' that Oriental and Occidental elements were mixed and compromised on equal terms. Fifth, it was expressed as a word 'Zen' that had natural fiber, moderate color and silhouette to be most basic and concise about human body at the end of 1990s. This study could confirm that the center of fashion was being converted into the Orient gradually. This may be understood as the pluralistic culture phenomenon. Namely, eclectic principle to recognize mutual style and individualistic nature and to utilize and mix was made, and this brought the conversion into Oriental sense of value.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.25-33
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• 2004

This study is aimed at reviewing how the Orientalism trend is expressed in the modem fashion in terms of silhouette, color, materials, and detail. To this end, the geographic scope of this study is limited to China, Japan, Korea, while data are collected from fashion collections, domestic and foreign magazines since 2000's, literature, and internet sites. The results of this study can be summarized as follows: 1. Silhouette: the basic square silhouette of the Oriental traditional costume do not disturb the body movement and have an effected on design to smoothly follow the body line rather than cutting out materials into several parts or emphasize the curved body. 2. Color: due to the influence of the Oriental Zen thought, color trend seems to pursue simplicity rather than complexity, and natural aesthetics. In addition, the Oriental colorfulness shall not be ignored. 3. Materials: golden embroidered material, polished satin, jersey, tough or rough materials, etc. have used with materials of the Oriental traditional costume came into fashion. In pattern, the Orientalism trend is expressive of pattern by Chinese ink-spread technique, simple brush touch technique, cloud pattern, lotus flower pattern or dragon pattern, all of which feature the Oriental calm aesthetics or those motivated by the Oriental traditional patterns. 4. Detail: the techniques of handicrafts and manual arts such as meticulous embroidery, tassel or patchwork reflect well the Orientalism trend in the modem fashion.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.169-181
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• 2016

This study analyzed the characteristics and patterns of men's drawers panties to get basic data for their design. For this, drawers panties in 7 different brands (4: domestic brands, 3: imported brands) in terms of a front-center shape were collected, and the shape of men's drawers panties, characteristics of the materials, dimensions & type of patterns by the part and front-center patterns were analyzed. The study results found the followings: First, in terms of the shape of men's drawers panties, the front-center part were designed to rest the penis and scrotum in a natural and comfortable manner without a pee slit. They were seamless on the sides except for one product with side seams. Second, the drawer panties were made of elastic polyurethane materials. Specifically, domestic brand items used warm, elastic and durable nylon, polyester and rayon and polyurethanes while imported brands were mostly made of absorbent and sanitary polyurethanes. Third, regarding a size of drawer panties by part, imported brands were large in waist circumference. In terms of waist breadth at the front center, there was difference depending on an oval type. In addition, the front length at the front center differed by product, revealing difference in three-dimensional effect at the front center. The side length also differed greatly by product, which means that there might be a great difference in wear comfort. Fourth, in terms of the patterns of men's drawers panties, there was difference in side seams, center back seam and front-center patterns. Among a total of 7 products, only one product had side seams, and center back seams were found in two products only. Fifth, in terms of front-center patterns, the drawer panties can be divided into three types, creating three-dimensional effect not to give any pressure on the crotch: i) the cutting line only at the bottom of the front center part where the penis is rested, ii) puff created at the front center by adding a transverse line to the center line, iii) cutting transverse line to separate the penis from the testicles.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.67-76
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to set a direction for the development of men's underwear after analyzing current applications for patent regarding men's special-purpose underwear. In terms of a research method, the disclosed patents and utility models were investigated using the patent information database provided by Korea Institute of Patent Information (KIPRIS, http://www.kipris.or.kr). For this, the patents applied from 1990 to October 2015 were targeted. The keywords used for patent search were 'men's underwear' and 'men's special-purpose underwear.' When searched by the keywords above, a total of 1,089 cases were found. Except for expired or cancelled ones, 243 cases were investigated. Then, annual application trends, current registrations on literature records, classification of utility model right holders and contents by topic were analyzed. In terms of data analysis, frequency analysis, crosstabulation analysis and multiple response analysis were conducted, using SPSS 18.0. The results found the followings: In terms of annual application trends, the number of applications for patent started to gradually increase since 2007. Since 2011, it has rapidly increased. In terms of the number of patent registrations, literature registration was far higher than utility model registration. In terms of application rights, 'individually registered (58.8%)' was higher than 'registered by the organization (41.2%).' Among 243 cases, 'underwear (58%)' was the highest, followed by 'men's underwear-related items (29.2%)' and 'thermals (8.2%).' According to analysis on the details of the patent applied for men's underwear, 'penis-scrotum separation' was most focused, followed by 'disposable product' 'airy features,' 'scrotum protection' and 'structure of underwear.'

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.1
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• pp.34-52
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• 2023

In this study, text mining was conducted on the product names of skirts, pants, shirts/blouses, and dresses to analyze the characteristics of keywords appearing in online shopping product names. As a result of frequency analysis, the number of keywords that appeared 0.5% or more for each item was around 30, and the number of keywords that appeared 0.1% or more was around 150. The cumulative distribution rate of 150 terms was around 80%. Accordingly, information on 150 key terms was analyzed, from which item, clothing composition, and material information were the found to be the most important types of information (ranking in the top five of all items). In addition, fit and style information for skirts and pants and length information for skirts and dresses were also considered important information. Keywords representing clothing composition information were: banding, high waist, and split for skirts and pants; and V-neck, tie, long sleeves, and puff for shirts/blouses and dresses. It was possible to identify the current design characteristics preferred by consumers from this information. However, there were also problems with terminology that hindered the connection between sellers and consumers. The most common problems were the use of various terms with the same meaning and irregular use of Korean and English terms. However, as a result of using co-appearance frequency analysis, it can be interpreted that there is little intention for product exposure, so it is recommended to avoid it.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.81-95
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to analyze the newtro fashion style and extract key descriptive terms for visual image evaluation based on the style. To achieve this, a literature review, case study, and survey were conducted. The results are as follows: 1) Newtro fashion exhibited a variety of styles depending on the items being considered. In particular, the windbreaker style is composed of windbreakers, sweatshirts, and training pants, the blazer style consists of blazers, sweatshirts, and denim pants, and the padding style is characterized by short padding, sweatshirts, and jogger pants. 2) A total of 28 terms were identified as vocabulary to represent the visual images of newtro fashion. Among these, 17 terms appeared with a frequency of 30 or more times across the three styles. Commonly used terms included 'emotional', 'desirable', 'empathetic', 'unique', 'moody', 'retro', 'sophisticated', 'stylish', 'vintage', 'confident', 'youthful', 'trendy', and 'modern'. 3) By examining terms with a frequency of 50 times or more, the visual images associated with each style were compared. For the windbreaker style, the newtro fashion image was predominantly described as 'desirable', 'youthful', 'modern', 'stylish', and 'emotional'. The blazer style was associated with 'retro', 'unconventional', 'stylish', 'trendy', 'empathetic', 'modern', 'intricate', and 'unique'. In the padding style, the newtro fashion image was characterized as 'youthful', 'intricate', 'cute', 'stylish', 'modern', 'unique', and 'confident'.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.27
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• pp.163-171
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• 1996

As the current stage of the fashion begins to follow the styles of the past the study on he past costume is getting more importance and as the methodology of the study the accurately ap-proached study through the rehabilitation of the past costume is more needed than the simple re-arrangement of the historical documents. By this methodology this study can be positioned as a re-creation activity. The results of the study are as follows. 1) Style: The S-line silhouette remains be-cause of the straight silhouette or the blossom style bodice. This dress has various types of sil-houette but generally it forms one silhouette and is one-piece. 2) color and Material: The material varies hile the color is divided as the main color of ivory and the stress color of brown. This shows not only that the material has been varied but also that they tried to reduce the monotony. 3) Pattern and Sewing: The simple external figure and the previous stage typically shows the movement to the simplicity of the contemporary and the num-ber of patterens is plenty and the sewing method is also complex. 4) Detail. To overcome the simplicity of the style and to show the characteristics of the afternoon dress the skunk fur the net the sash, and the bow are used. 5) Structural Characteristics: The front open-ing the back opening and the side opening coexists in one-pieced dress and this forms unique structure and complex fastening device. The ribbon tape and casing not only finish the seam but also fix the shape of the dress. Synthetically the 1913-14 afternoon dress has the characteristics of transitional stage in which the characteristics of the costume of 1910s and the remnants of the characteristics of the pre-vious costume style and shows the character-istics of afternoon dress well in terms of the ma-terial the structure and the detail.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.7
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• pp.151-164
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• 2004

This Studies on 20th century fashion was carried out according to the classification of the times as made up Belle Epoque, New Look, Big Look, and Body-Consciousness. Aside from research in literatures, research into 20th fashion also include the analysis of photo had been taken from various collection. The enlargement beauty of costume had been place under the aesthetic category and, by interpreting the analogies of presented in aesthetic consciousness. the true nature of the voluminous enlargement in costume had been traced. To conclude, this study finds there are between the aesthetic characteristic differences in the aesthetic consciousness of the costumes in history and the present-day fashion. The aesthetic consciousness of the voluminous enlargement of the present-day was found to have the following characteristic ; (1) History-oriented tradition (2) Metaphorica autonomous (3) Freedom of breaking with restriction (4) Dismantling the irregularity (5) Hedonistic play instinct (6) Psychological compensation (7) Sexual sensuality (8) Ideal of the times (9) Aesthetic ornament (10) Feeling of satisfaction through self-enlargement. From list above. metaphorical sensuality, aesthetic ornament and the feeling of satisfaction driven by Self-Enlargement are the same characteristics found in the aesthetics consciousness of the voluminous enlargement of the costume In history in that they are the aesthetic consciousness above time and space. It is metaphorical sensuality which transform woman's body in to distorted images as influenced by both capitalism and materialism in the last 20 years. These are represented by the sadomasochistic and fetish images as the woman's metaphorical voluminous enlargement is apparently becoming more positive, radical and obscene especially in terms of expression.