• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.3 s.102
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• pp.116-128
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate Seon expressed in the costume of Chinese Song. For the purpose, this researcher classified types of Seon, found in the Chinese costume, in terms of composition method, decorative technique and used materials. In addition, the researcher attempted to analyze formative characteristics of Sean in accordance with the range and post of use, pattern and color combination. Seon expressed in the costume of Chinese Song can be classified into standard, decoration, application and Buseon in type. When the typical distribution of Seon expressed in the costume of Chinese Song, standard type was highest in percentage, especially different color type. Looking at the range of use, Seon was mainly used for outfits, especially Jikcheol(直?) and Hakchangeui for men and Baeja(背子) for women. Looking at the post of use, Seon was mainly used to edges of costume and sometimes also to seams. In regard to materials of Seon, they were selectively used depending on the existence or non-existence, size and brilliance or non-brilliance of pattern employed in the texture of Seon. The most commonly used pattern of Seon was single-type pattern, especially the pattern of plant. Pattern arrangement was most often filling in type. Concerning the color combination of Seon, men's dress most often used black-white combination, followed by different color combination while, women's dress most often employed complementary color combination, followed by different color combination.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.191-203
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• 2016

The 3D virtual fitting system is a new and very efficient system replacing real fitting in apparel industry and on-line shopping. It is a win-win system for both of consumer and manufacturer which not only reduces design and production time but also resolves consumer's complaints by checking the wearing image beforehand. It is a must-have item in the future. The purpose of this study is to analyze sizing menu, terms, and current status and to figure out problems of avatar sizing programs which substitute human bodies in virtual fitting. We chose three existing outstanding programs in domestic and global market, compared and analyzed the program, manual, and terms that are used in avatar sizing, and investigated the strengths, weaknesses, problems of options and terms and finally suggested an alternative terms. The revealed problems are as follows: each program supports various avatars ranging from male to female, from child to adult, and from oriental style to western style. The image of the avatar could be changed through the options for hair style, shoes and accessories. But we found out some problems. The avatar body types are far from actual human body types, avatar sizing menus and item terms are different from program to program, and terms not yet standardized. Cooperative efforts of industry and academy on standardization of sizing menus and terms should be emphasized for the virtual fitting system to be widely used like the other computer graphic programs or word editors.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.185-199
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• 2004

This study is intended to examine Honore Daurnier's realism formativeness, review it in connection with socio-cultural conditions, analyze costume designs by a style of realism formativeness, in order to find the value. For the study, the procedure included the review of Daurnier's works and world, together with realism formativeness. Then, Daurnier's realism formativeness applied to costume designs were categorized and found the features of each style. Finally, it sought the implication of realism formativeness in costume designs. Honore Daumier, a realist of France in the 19th century, has been reputed that he pursues plain reality with a satire, uses all the conditions of humans as his object, and observes the vanity, desire, and foolishness of humans to represent his own expression techniques as cold as a stone. Realism formativeness is characterized by adherence to observing reality and engagement in reality, an effort to represent the world as it is as what we sense it without diluting or omitting it, nor any deception. The following terms can be used to describe the three styles of intentional recreation, satire on reality, and real existence; For intentional recreation in costume may be featured by the avant-garde, the pursuit of autonomy, reconstruction, rediscovery, recombination, reinterpretation, neutralized representation (reality ＋ the abstract), transformation, distortion, shock, and unexpectedness, etc. For satire on reality in costume, satirical criticism and mockery in a coexistence of time and space, dualism due to the combination of the exterior and the interior, reality reflecting the actual reality, and irony are those words. Real existence in costume may be described with objectivity, ordinariness, correctness of representing a theme, impersonality excluding subjectivity, clearness, certainness, and preciseness, etc.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.177-188
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to appreciate Japanese clothing and ornament of the men's costume that showed a unique style of Japan as well as a mixture of foreign civilization in Edo period. The data related clothing, ornament and art of Japan were collected from books and slide films that had been studied in Japan, because the data studied in Korea were not enough. The results were as follows: First characteristic is. the dualism. The dualism was shown in the social class, estheticism and originality. In terms of the social class, the feudalism remained through their heraldry or mark of organization even though it was broken down. In terms of estheticism, it showed the coexistence of gorgeousness and plainness. In terms of the originality, it showed the coexistence of original Kosode and Kappa under the influence of Southern barbarians' mode. Second characteristic is the utility. $Ch{\check{o}}nin$ was needed to the functional clothing because of Its social position that had much activity. Therefore, the utility was shown in a simple silhouette of Haori and Hanten and in its way of wearing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.2
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• pp.20-34
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• 2010

This study is intended to suggest the characteristic of dress and its ornament introduced in terms of naturalized words on Korean newspapers and magazines published from the age of enlightenment to the Independence(1876-1945). First of all, naturalized words in that period(1876-1945) can be classified into words originated in Japanese, words originated in western countries and borrowed words came from Japan. Borrowed words which came from Japan are almost related to Japan's traditional dress like Gudu, Gabang, Kimono, Nemaki, Ebijahagama, Hagama, Sirusibanden, Doriachi, Dombi, Sarumada, Sseumeeri, Doriachi, and Mombbe. Borrowed words originated in western countries are like Frock coat, Bonnet, Necktie, Chapeau, Scotch, Homespun, Chamois, Skirt, Spring Coat, Ribbon, Silk hat, Panama hat, Handbag, Pajama, Shawl, Apron, Cuffs, Pocket, Handkerchief, Morning coat, Combination-one piece, Rain Coat, Burberry, and Permanent, etc. Borrowed words came from Japan is Lasa[raxa], jokki[jaket], Les[lace], Veludo[velvet], Bbanss[pants], Oba[overcoat], Meliyas[medias], Shass[shirt], Manto[manteau], and Sebiro[civil clothes]. As we can see from the result of research, borrowed words from the age of enlightenment to the Independence was because of its special social situation, Japanese imperialism, they are divided into real western words and words came from Japan or Japanese. In terms of items, a lot of words related to men's suit and women's dress, accessory, etc. It confirms that men's dress was westernized in the whole part compared to partially westernized women's one. A lot of words used at that period are now adapted to Korean language and became the foundation of words used in the current dress and its ornament area.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.2
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• pp.11-23
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• 2004

Bomun(Treasure Pattern), by its formative beauty and its symbol of good-luck, is mixed well with other patterns and produces another luxurious and gorgeous pattern with them. This study is to sort out Bomun patterned materials in the relics of Chosun dynasty, to classify the types of patterns according to its elements and to its arrangement, and to analyze their aesthetic characteristics in terms of fabrics, methods of putting patterns on fabrics, their usage, and symbols and aesthetics. The types of Bomun, in terms of their composition elements, are classified as Individual type, Compound Type Ⅰ, which is made with another Bomun, and Compound Type Ⅱ, which is compounded with plant patterns or with animal patterns. In terms of its arrangement, it is classified as Dense type, Sparse type, and Picturesque type, and the most popular type is the pattern of the dense type. Bomun was depicted in the fabric through a technique called Jimunbeop. It was used on both men's and women's clothing. It was mostly used in Po of men's clothing and in Jeogori(jacket) of women's clothing. Bomun connotes the meaning of good-luck, beating off evil spirits, Yin and Yang ideology, noble tastes, etc.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.6 s.105
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• pp.72-86
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• 2006

The study aimed to materialize the meaning of the names through analyzing names that have synonyms and ambiguous words. The subjects of the study are seven foreign language study books such as $\ll$譯語類解 Yeokeoyuhae $\gg$ $\ll$譯語類解補編 Yeokeoyuhae - supplementary book$\gg$, $\ll$同文類解 Dongmunyuhae$\ggl$, $\ll$象語類解 Mongeoyuhae$\gg$, $\ll$象語類解補編 Mongeoyuhae- supplementary book$\gg$, $\ll$俊語類解 Oaeeoyuhae$\gg$ and $\ll$方름類釋 Bangeonyuseok$\gg$. The study selected vocabularies related with headgear, socks, clothing from those vocabulary books. The results are as follows: 1. The result focusing on the same Chinese terms in multiple forms has shown that '帽子(Moja), 斗逢(Dubong), 頭面(Dumyen), 襪(Mal), 木?(Mokgeuk), 　據子(Nanmalja), 樓子(Oja), 小樓子(Sooja), 養衣(Saui), 團領(Danlyeng), 掛子(Goija), 齊肩掛(Jegyengae), 彩兒(Sama), 單補(Dango)' have differences in Korean annotations, and it has been found that these differences are spelt as synonyms in general. 2. The result focusing on the same Korean terms in multiple forms has shown that Gamto, Gat, Satgat, Bolkki, Gatmo, Neoneol, Gatdongot, Ddambatgijeoksam, Nuyeok, Tyeollik, Goui, Baji, Gatdongot, Hatot, Dongdoljji, Yusam, Chima and ete. have 2 or more Chinese spellings. Among these, Neoneol, Ddambatgijeoksam, Nuyeok, Tyeollik, and etc. seem to have used similar Chinese spellings, and Gat, Dongdoljji, and etc. seem to have used Chinese spellings according to the multiple forms in each country. 3. There have also been records of terms seldom used at present such as Dalogi, Neoneol, and etc., and it has been found that Mahulae, Doljji, Dunja, and etc. are the terms have been geographically influenced by the northern race as they have been left as a dialect in North Korea currently. 4. Mahulae, Kulimae, Neolku, and etc. may be inferred as they have originated from Manchu language through pronunciation of each country spelt in translated books.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.517-536
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to investigate the internal and external line beauty of men's dress of the Chosun period from the views of dress design and dress aesthetics. 1) External Line Beauty of Men's Dress of the Chosun Period ① Functional Beauty : Having the beauty of functional line in terms of convenience, action, effectiveness, practivce and sanitation. ② Structural Beauty : Having the beauty harmonizing between lines of internal and external structures. ③ Ornamental Beauty : Having the beauty of simple line by matching accessories (gat, fan, sejodae, shoes) with a simple dress. ④ Wearing Beauty : Making tall-looking or expressing a mature masculine beauty by a visual mistake caused by a combination of internal and external structural beauty lines. 2) Internal Line Beauty of Men's Dress of the Chosun Period Including a simple but natural beauty based on natural philosophy, the beauty of courtesy emphasizing official hat and dress and the beauty of dress having aesthetic consciousness with which people enjoy an idyllic life.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.5
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• pp.163-173
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• 2016

As the severity of environmental problems has come to light in recent times environmental protection has garnered more interest and importance. The purpose of this study was to determine the current research trends in ecofriendly fashion in Korea by analyzing the research trends related to eco fashion, provide information necessary for developing eco and eco-friendly fashion in the future, and set the research direction for related research. The study analyzed 1,746 research papers in Journal of Korean Society of Costume, Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, Research Journal of the Costume Culture, and Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association from 2010 to 2014, and a total of 55 research papers related to eco fashion were selected. Major conclusions of the study are as follows: First, Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles published the most papers on eco fashion, Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association published the fewest. Second, the highest number of research papers published in a year was 14 in 2014. Only a small number of papers were published in 2012, but the figure increased in 2014. Third, the most frequently covered topic among the 12 topics was the 'eco-friendly' topic with 13 papers (23.64%), followed by topics on corporate social responsibility (CSR), eco, sustainable, green, ethical, and recycle, respectively. The 7 topics above were covered by 47 of the selected 55 papers (85.45%). Fourth, the following research methods were used: the questionnaire method, literature review, case study, Internet search, costume construction, online survey and interview. The questionnaire method was used in 22 papers (29.33%), making it the most frequently used method. Fifth, fields of research were divided into fashion design(19 papers, 34.55%) and fashion marketing(36 papers, 65.45%). Papers on fashion design was published the most in 2010, and fashion marketing papers peaked in 2014. The use of eco fashion will be expanded in various ways in terms of country, firms and consumers in the future.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.858-874
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• 2020

This study attempts to analyze the social and cultural meanings of the ethnic groups to which different types of shamans belong in Siberia from the appearance characteristics in terms of clothing through Roland Barthes's semiotic theory. The research method here is to analyze three types of shaman costume classified by Holmberg, which are bird-type, deer-type, and bear-type, through theoretical research and to investigate the analysis process of Roland Barthes's semiotics theory. Roland Barthes's approach to semiotics presents an analysis model that can explore the sociocultural meaning of the Siberian shaman costume. The research results are as follows. In the first type, to be closer to the god of the upperworld, shamans transform themselves into birds by decorating their costumes with the characteristic elements of birds such as feathers and wings. In the second type, the shamans' costumes are made of deerskin, and the headdress is shown in the shape of antlers to make it easier to receive messages from the upperworld and run fast in the underworld. In the third type, the shaman's costume is made of bearskin, the head is covered with bearskin, and the body is decorated with bear pendants. Through the power of the bear, the shaman is sent to the underworld to defeat evil gods and remove diseases. Shamans can show their particularity of being a demigod and non-binary gender through clothing. They use this to reflect their authority as a medium of communication between man and god.