• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.2
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• pp.65-78
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• 2001

The costume history of Koryo Dynasty is well-known as having many undiscovered area. This is because there are only few records in that times. Futhermore the previous studies only quote the records such like "Koryosa" and "Koryodokyung", and their investigations are restricted. This paper quotes all kinds of literature which can show the costume of Koryo Dynasty. First it collects all the terms of the costume in the literature and classified them by those properties. Also, this study shows the characteristics of the costume in the Koryo Dynasty by reanalying the terms. This study is restricted on the costume of everyday wear.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.493-511
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• 2000

The objective of this study was to trace and to examine costume terminologies recorded in Pak Tong Sa Eun Hae. Names of costumes and costume related terms were collected from P마 Tong Sa Eun Hae. Books and various references from China and Korea were used for this study. Costume terms were examined from the Chinese and Korean. Classifications of costume terminologies from the data were made for the analysis : man and woman's costume, accessories, names of fabrics, colors, and decorative motifs used, professional costume, special occasion dresses and so on. Conclusions and summary of results and findings can be summerized as follows : It revealed that manes of man's costume and other costume related words were a large in number compared with those of woman. Only one name of woman's costume appeared in the text : It was kind of long vests. However, names of accessories such as a hat, a hat decorated with jewels and phoenix design, a hair pin, earings, bracelets, finger rings, a soft belt were shown in the text. While many costume names of man included in the text were of garments such as a kind of long vest, a short vest, an outer robe, a kind of long coat with pleated skirt, leg coverings, outer jacket and so on. Also names of undergarments such as an under skirt, a belly covering, and drawers were found in the text. Fabric names were mostly silks such as brocade, twill, sarcenet, damasks and plain silks. Blue was the most widely appeared fabric color in the text and red was the second. Design motifs of fabric design were of dragon, flowers, eight precious things, clouds which were characteristic design motifs of the Chinese. It was found that some of the Chinese costume terminologies were translated into the Korean although many Chinese costume terms were used as the original Chinese.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.307-316
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• 1994

This study is concerned with a comparative linguistic analysis of the Manchu costume terminologies. The Manchu costume terminologies revealed the elements Hebrew, Norweygian, English, Assyrian, Chinese, American Indian, Sanskrit, Tatar, Turkestan, Greek, Arabic, Indian, Kashmiri. The most influential elements of the Manchu costume terminologies were the Chinese costume terminologies. specifically, the elements of the Chinese costume terms were found in the terminologies of the fabrics, the gems and the precious stones. Also the influence of the Mongolic costume on the Manchu costume terminologies appeared in this study.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.82-97
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• 2016

This study attempted to summarize the characteristics of fashion in the 1930s which were the background of 'Bonnie and Clyde' and analyze how fashion in the 1930s was expressed through costume in the movie, focusing on some critical scenes. For this, previous studies and domestic & foreign books, magazines and DVDs relating to movie costume were examined. For analysis of movie costume, 'Bonnie and Clyde (1967)' DVD was referred to. In the movie, meaningful scenes were captured using a GOM Player. Then, the study results found the followings: First, in terms of women's fashion in the 1930s, adult look and slim & long silhouette which naturally revealed breast, waist and hip with a long skirt, a military look with strong shoulders and tailored costume were found. In terms of men's fashion, in contrast, the Duke of Windsor Style (a slim silhouette jacket and loose pants) was popular. Second, in the movie, Bonnie's costume started with a slim linen H-line dress at her first meeting with Clyde. While committing crimes and becoming a famous gangster, she displayed the fashion styles which were in vogue in the 1930s such as fancy and luxurious slim dress, tailored suit and trench coat. Third, in terms of Clyde's costume, from his first meeting with Bonnie to his first crime, he put on common costume (ex: pants, vest, shirts, etc.) which revealed his open and unconventional character. After he became a famous gangster, he would wear the Duke of Windsor style (jacket, vest and pants). The study results well describe movie costume's role as visual language which expresses characters' inner circumstances and outer situations that reflect socio-cultural background.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.1-13
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• 2011

Research on the influence of foreign culture influx on fashion has a significant meaning as a reference for predicting future fashion trends affected by globalization. Therefore, this study examined the transformations in Turkish costume in the 13th to 18th century when Turkey was most thriving in history. As the Ottoman Turk Empire expanded its territory, its costume changed by embracing both western and Islamic cultures and presented exotic styles in terms of fabric, pattern, color, design and details.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.46-54
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• 2005

The Purpose of this research was focused on analyzing how costume was exactly researched for film in comparison with the original Renaissance costume, and how to change the degree of brightness and chroma in costume of two films, 'Shakespeare in Love' and 'Elizabeth: The Virgin Queen'. For these purpose, each costume of main seven scenes was analyzed in terms of silhouette, detail, and trimming. Color image, brightness and chroma of costume were compared with the color chip data from Samsung Design Net. As results, costume from two films had exactness in historical research. but the original costumes were modernly changed by the purpose of director. Color image of costume were used proper colors for the characteristic of the story. Costumes of heroine was numerically changed at the degree qf the brightness and chroma through story-going. By this change, director could effectively give dramatic rhythm for the story. The limitation of this research was that color analysis had been conducted on the screen, and this fact might mean the original colors of film might be different from those of screen.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.723-739
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• 2011

This research seeks to analyze western men's costume in the Baroque era in relation to men's physical beauty from its most detailed and interesting perspective to fomulate a plausible reasoning related to the aesthetic sense of body as expressed in men's costume. This research used national and international books, theses and internet data upon which to base a literature review for a correct understanding of Baroque style and at the same time empirical research to analyze the body image expressed in men's costume. The Baroque style expressed in the 17th century costume offered a dynamic feeling through wavy curves, and its brilliant and colorful decorations created a passionate and charming mood resembling a flame. Accordingly, this research studied the body image as it appeared in the form of 17th century western men's costume by dividing it into the contact beauty of the human body and the manner of hiding the architectural beauty of the human body. First, the exposed silhouette by clothing coming into contact with the human body could be found mainly in upper-class men's costume in the first half of the 17th century. The shorter and tighter doublets and knee breeches could be analyzed in terms of erotic imagery that emphasized masculinity, aristocratic imagery that stressed a distinctive status, and geometric imagery that expressed a triangular pattern. Second, the constructive expression by hiding the human body could be found in upper-class men's costume starting in the mid-17 century. The wearing of the justaucorps could be studied in terms of how it came into contact with the beauty of the human body but also how this clothing style the hid the architectural beauty of human body.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.46
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• pp.109-132
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• 1999

The purpose of this research is to get basic data for R&D to activate and popularize the Practical Korean Costume. This research was carried out by theoretical study with literature and practical study with development of model based on the result of questionnaire. 1. In theoretical study the concept of 'Korean-image' of modern costume as well as 'Modernization' of Korean traditional costume has been suggested and 'traditional beauty of costume' which can be evaluated generally was considered. 2. In practical study the results of the questionnaire showed the objective numerical value of the element of Korean design which is firmly recognized by korean people. With the results the methods of development and composition of design have been suggested in the harmony of 'traditional' and 'modern' through the modernization in terms of form composition fabric color. It is expected that development direction of Practical Korean Costume which can be settled in everyday life with more independent cultural identity should be suggested. Additionally the research results will be useful for merchandise planning of costume industry.

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 2005.10a
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• pp.190-191
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• 2005

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.3
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• pp.111-122
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• 2002

The study of traditional costume is significant in terms of figuring out of the reality of its originality and enrich the costume culture of today. The purpose of this study is to analyze the aesthetic characteristics and to contemplate the aesthetic values of the Kokuryo costume. Kokuryo costume were characterized with the simpleness in its clothing constructions. The spaces found on the dresses were emphasized giving a geometric characteristics and abstract images. Many different colors were used for tops, bottoms, and border elements showing value contrast in each parts of dress. Patterns were simplified in a dot or stripe shapes impling a certain symbols. Dot patterns were varied in its shapes. In general. the decorative elements were simple and eliminated. Through the process of investigating these aesthetic characteristics, aesthetic values were found. The aesthetics of nature were favoured and tradition were respected. Religious mind were favoured and progressive spirit were endowed by the Kokuryo people. They have pursued the diversities and many changes in visual forms of dresses which were the manifestations of their esprit.