• 복식문화연구
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• 제31권6호
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• pp.720-737
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• 2023

This study aims to merge Picasso's expressive elements and deconstructive fashion's formative traits, proposing an upcycle fashion design that fuses artistic and philoso-phical aspects. The analysis of Picasso's Cubism identified qualities like liberating revolution, fluidity of vision, geometric reducibility, complex symbolism, and creative imitation. The analysis of Derrida's deconstructionism revealed expressive traits: uncertainty, intertextuality, différance, and dis-de phenomenon. An upscale fashion design was developed based on six Picasso works featuring women. The design was created using the fashion design software CLO 3D and integrated clothing waste and scrap fabrics as materials.The results are as follows. First, upcycle fashion was viewed from a new perspective based on Picasso and Derrida's values. This perspective suggested creating better ethical values by upholding environmental protection in novel ways that overcome limitations rather than destroy existing values indiscriminately. Second, upcycle fashion design methodologies were derived from various perspectives utilizing formative features of Picasso's works and specific expressive features of deconstructed fashion. Third, the direction of mitigating waste and pollution from clothing production and transportation was revealed by making clothes in a virtual space using the CLO 3D program. This study contributed to obtaining various methods for developing upcycle fashion designs using own methods of Picasso and Derrida to diversify the approaches of upcycling, which is relatively stagnant in disassembling.

• 복식
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• 제55권1호
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• pp.25-42
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• 2005

Costume is a formative art expressed by active human unlike the field of other living formativeness, and an expression of social actions based on a style of culture in a period. Therefore, costume has a deep connection with a mode of living and is recognized as a 'culture for living', and is more characteristic culture than all metaphysical cultures including architecture, craft, painting, and sculpture. Therefore, it expresses wearer's status or social standing, and furthermore, ideas and values of the times with aesthetic features in their form, color, materials, and pattern, so it is expressed as a mirror reflecting the phases of the times as. Korean costume had been dressed until the period of the Joseon Dynasty without a great change and started to be simplified in a simple style on the grounds of inconvenience in behaviors with the opening of an interchange of Western culture in the civilized period. And, this movement had been continued and Korean costume had been applied as an everyday dress under the name of 'Reformed Korean Costume'. Since the middle phase of 1980s, it aroused many people's interests with the introduction of designs focused on activity and convenience. In 1990's, many people had taken a growing interest in Korean costume with development of various designs keeping pace with the internationalization period and Korean Costume had been revitalized under the name of 'The Modernized Korean Costume'. And, since the 21st century, the advanced communication and full-scaled import of Western fashion have made the introduction of many fashion information in the world into Korea, affected greatly the fashion market, led consumers' sensitivity on a trend to be increased. Therefore, a design accepting a trend 'The Modernized Korean Costume' with fashions has risen. Second, this study is an attempt to suggest a revitalization method of domestic casual Korean costume brands by developing and suggesting competitive and highly value-added products with connection of practicality, variety, and highly sensitive fashion styles. For theoretical study, domestic and foreign literatures, academic journals, professional monthly magazines, and newspapers were examined. And, a process of change and features of the Korean fashion since the civilization period, and concept, features and images of casual Korean costume were analyzed, On the basis of analyzing image, features, and consumers' preference of the modernized Korean costume, a design development plan was established and 10 suits of costume were designed and made.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권5호
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• pp.741-752
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• 2008

The purposes of this study are to review the status of dress material in the contemporary fashion design by examining the intertextuality of many materials other than textiles used in the contemporary fashion and to show that the development of new fashion materials is a factor for designing competitiveness. The results of this study are summarized as follows: First, foods and natural objects are used as fashion materials to reveal natural beauty, and at the same time new formative elements are expressed in combinations of life and fashion. Second, common paper and luxurious jewelry are presented as a formative element symbolic of an aspect of the contemporary society or embodied in elaborate handicraft techniques. Those materials boost the luxuriousness of costume and create a strong futuristic image according to how they are expressed. Third, plastics available for a variety of objects in different shapes and colors offer such formative features that could be shaped with textiles, as high-end technology is introduced to fashion. Fourth, metallic materials have added freedom to design formality due to their qualities of convergence and displacement and by the introduction of brand-new technology, suggesting a new future for the fashion industry. Fifth, using a variety of anti-fashion materials including semiconductor chips, mirrors, vinyl, wires, and rubber makes a change in the existing points of view regarding the formality of things and helps create a special aesthetic effect in a visual respect to develop a strong intertextuality of materials.

• 복식
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• 제47권
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• pp.143-160
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• 1999

The purpose of this dissertation is to interpret fashion through a socio-cultural phenomenon called kitsch by understanding its aesthetic characteristics and clarifying its significance in the modern consumer society and analyzing the examples of kitsch appearing in modern fashion. The following are the arguments and conclusion of this dissertation. First kitsch has negative meanings such as aesthetic inadequacy or bad tastes implying vulgar popular tastes of faked sensations just imitating elite culture and using things indiscriminately for inferior reproduction or at best the philosophical and aesthetic category that expresses the mass of people's attitudes toward life in accepting the consumer culture of the industrial society. It started from the art of romanticism accompanied by th commercializing of art with the bourgeois society background formed in the mid-19th century. Though kitsch started to prevail following the socio-cultural changes caused by the Industrial Revolution in the 19th century it is only in the late 20th century that kitsch has come tc our everyday life and has become an object of aesthetic arguments. Second formative characteristics of kitsch appearin in fashion have a cumulative inadequate romantic pleasure-seeking satirizing and multicomplex nature. Third the socio-cultural meanings of kitsch appearing in fashion are as follows: The extension of commercialism which gratifies the pleasure-seeking mass consumers the enlargement of the aesthetic category by inclining to everyday commonplace aesthetic sense the expression of one's identity through the gratification of desire and the new aesthetics of resistance and deviance by an anti-traditional and anti-elite tendency towards the traditional society and aesthetic values.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.18-35
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• 2008

As an essential factor of plasticity in fashion, color reflects socio-cultural trends and has possessed different symbolism in its historical development. This study aims to search for an academic approach towards finding out how the concepts and symbolism of the color white were expressed in actual clothing. This will be realized through the investigation of the various meanings this particular color possesses. The secondary purpose of this study is to give shape to the results of above said academic investigation by proposing their integration into actual fashion design. The methodology employed in this study and results are as follows. First, the symbolism of the color white abstracted from the research of literature on this subject was classified into six categories; purity, grace, abstinence, sublimity, decorativeness, and avant-garde. Second, for empirical research, six designs were developed and produced into white dresses. The development of these dress designs was realized by presenting the symbolism of the aforementioned six categories into images, and the formative constructions of these images by applying various design details, expressive techniques, and characteristics of the materials. Through an investigation into the color white, which has been excluded from previous chromatics research as a major color, integration of the symbolism and chromatic image of this color into the actual fashion design process is made possible. The significance of this study is in that it proposes multifarious possibilities in fashion design, and also in extending the horizon of chromatics research in fashion through the realization of the above process.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제7권5호
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• pp.122-139
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• 1999

Paco Rabanne, who has created experimental and prophetic avant-garde fashion by cutting edge techniques and revolutionary new materials, is known as one of the most influential fashion designer of modern times. The purpose of this study is to analyze the various factors, including some major artistic movements, which influenced on the formative characteristics of Paco Rabanne\`s fashion design. First, Paco Rabanne\`s fantastic new materials is also influenced by his study in architecture and his own fantasies -which other people can hardly imagine- during his early childhood. Second, light one of the most important element in Paco Ranbanne\`s fashion design, shows some influence of medieval symbols of love and salvation. Third, the artistic trends which influenced on Paco Rabanne\`s fashion include surrealism, opart, and kinetic art. His use of new materials and avant -garde style represents the influence of surrealism. his experimental use of waving plastics and glittering metal during his early period is especially related with opart and kinetic art in the early 1960s which emphasize the artistic effect of light and movement. Fourth, the geometrical figures like triangles, rectangles, and circles represent the influence of Egyptian architecture like pyramids and the geometrical characteristics of Eguptian art. Fifth, Paco Rabanne\`s distinctive use of metal chains in his fashion shows the influence of the chain mail hauberk, the medieval knightly armour. By using the medieval material Paco Rabanne properly expressed the modern person\`s pain and suffering. Sixth, the ethnic elements of Egypt, Africa, Spain, and Japan reflect the experience in his former lives he insists he lived. The ethnic elements of his dresses emphasize the natural vitality and inheritance from the past.

• 복식
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• 제56권6호
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• pp.33-44
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• 2006

With the basis of objective truth by the subjective sensibility and the Rock art's history and the molding the Rock arts image motive, the conclusion like this; The first, Rock art express the imagination variety as symbols of abundance, fecundity, stable lift's present mourning and absolute respect and the spirit. The second, the new motives are developed by making formative images with deeply understanding essential side in the Rock arts. With this, the pattern is repeated with making motive's repeat units and the new pattern is developed by 45-angle iteration. These cultural products were used to produce necktie, scarf, and clothing making commonly efficient use in actual life- with 3D simulation. Through developing Rock art pattern, it is great the possibility of development for expressing Korea images with making an excavation. A competitive design as to the international period can be developed with applying to the variety department-cultural products development.

• 복식
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• 제61권8호
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• pp.32-44
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• 2011

This study will explore the application of the Korean alphabet 'Hangul' and its calligraphy on fashion design. Hangul is well known for its great formative characteristics. Its calligraphy has unique features that express the implicative meaning of the Korean language while simultaneously displays beautiful shapes that draw the viewer's eye. When Hangul calligraphy is applied on the pattern design, it can be an excellent opportunity to demonstrate the visual beauty of Hangul. The purpose of this study is to develop the pattern designs that utilize the Hangul calligraphy and apply them in various fields of fashion. The detailed concepts of this study are as follows. First, the theoretical concepts and characteristics of both Hangul calligraphy and pattern design will be understood. Second, the aesthetic characteristics of calligraphy will be drawn by case analysis on the artworks of famous calligraphers such as Kim Jong-geon, Kang Byeong-in, Lee Sang-hyeon, Lee Gyu-bok and other representative calligraphers who design the beauty of Korean calligraphy by handwriting and brush-writing. The obtained results will be used to explore the desirable direction of fashion design. Third, eight pattern motif fashion works that utilize Hangul calligraphy in accordance with the arrangement of different characteristics of fashion design will be presented.

• 복식
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• 제59권8호
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• pp.1-14
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• 2009

This study was aimed to make clear fashion is an expression art displaying not only functional or commercial aspects, but creative functions as an artistic work by analyzing Art Mode and its values, and to help develop more creative design by combining fashion with art. In terms of method, relevant documents, precedent studies, and the works announced in domestic and foreign fashion collections, such as Vogue, Fashion News, Gap, and Collections from 2000 to 2009. According to the findings, artistic works were used by the Art Mode in modern fashion. The respect of artists was expressed using historic famous painting works or current works in various fields, designers' individuality was shown by directly applying work messages to clothes, and fashion design was converted into a tool to communicate the messages like artistic works. Second, the various styles, using the formative character of modern art styles from animalism to modern abstractism, showed the creativity of design, transformed art into the art that enables to see the image of modern art, and presented the possibility of developing into a newer creative design through the application of numerous art styles and the transformation of ideas. Third, the collaboration with artists was used. Fashion designers or fashion brands tried to change the images of works or brands in partnership with artists or to increase differentiated images. The future direction of fashion is a pursuit of new form and content to express fashion, not simply to use artistic works. It is expected that such pursuit will lead to more creative and artistic fashion design.

• 복식
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• 제53권5호
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• pp.33-48
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to define the moaning and features of humor in modern fashion. by examining how it's being grafted into fashion, based on artistic expression including collage, assemblage, photo montage, graffiti, transformation, distortion, exaggeration and optical illusion. Beside. humor of fashion is to examine not only laugh and fun but also formative expression and creativity. Furthermore, it is to enlarge the range of conception for future fashion. The findings of this study could be described as below: The features of humorous fashion by collage and assemblage boiled down to unexpectedness, disharmony and creativity. The photo montage was marked by popularity, reproduction and recreativity, and graffiti was characterized by attention, simpleness, and amusement. And there were unexpectedness, creativity and strangeness in transformation, distortion, magnification and optical illusion. The meaning of humorous fashion that carries such features could eventually be summarized into the followings : First, the fashion, from which collage, assemblage, photo montage. graffiti, transformation, distortion, magnification and optical illusion were detected. could be sorted out into several categories that used different things : introduction of objects of different nature, dramatic impression and wit based on photo montage technique, introduction of comic components and infant image, and destruction of aesthetic principles. Second, the substance of humor in art could be applied to fashion design as well as visual art. Humor is a property related to accidental, unexpected incident, behavior, situation or idea, and it puts laugh, disharmony or awkwardness in fashion. Third, spicing fashion with humor could serve to draw people's attention, break down the barrier among people exposed to dry sentiment, and connect the public with art.