• 복식
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• 제37권
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• pp.133-148
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• 1998

This study presents the aspects and changing process of the habiliment from the National Liberation up to now by analyzing the articles of costume found in$\ulcorner$Maeil Shinmun$\lrcorner$from Jan. 1. 1946 to Dec. 31. 1996. In the period of 1946~1959, the political and economic conditions through the National Liberation and Korean war deteriorated and the interest in costumes were weakened. But the economic recovery and social stability in the middle of the 50's made the lost interest in costumes increase. From 1960 to 1969, the high economic growth was achieved by“Five year plans for Economic Development”and the progress of mass media, transportation, communication and education brought western culture to our society. It spread rapidly and changed the way of life and the sence of value. These phenomenon led to a great transition on the Korean costume culture in the 60's In 1970~1979, the articless of costume made a change from the 60's, which focused on women's wear, and tuned to one including general costumes not only women's wear but also men's wear due to the women's social roles, the unisexmode and diverse costume. In 1980~1989, the growth of the consumption, the banning of the school uniform, Asian Games(1986) and Olympic games(1988) caused the high qualification, personalization and diversification in the fashion industry. Further more, the traditional-oriented trend with korean culture was emphasized. It pursued the modernization of the traditional Korean Costume, Hanbok, to introduce the unique Korean Beauty. From 1990 to 1996, in the era of international-ization and open door policy, the competition of nations became intense and the comprehention about environmental destruction highlingted the concerns on ecology. The recognition of environmental protection and recycling were reflected in the fashion. It prevailed that the pursuit of personalization,. diverse style, practicality and the fashion leader called generation appeared.

• 복식
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• 제57권9호
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• pp.110-123
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• 2007

This study is purposed to analyze the characteristics of different images of Hollywood movie costumes centering on the costumes of actresses who are the fashion leaders creating fashions especially focusing on those in 1930s. The scope of this study covers the movie costumes selected from the movies ranging from 1930 to 1939 centering on the Hollywood movies produced and released by large movie distributors and the movie costumes of heroins that exerted great influences on the culture and clothing history of 1930s were examined. As for the methods of study, visual data and image data including movies were collected through related dissertations, articles in journals, internet sites relating to movies and photos and we have analyzed each of the characteristics of the movie costumes appearing in each image. The result of this study is as follows. Firstly, ethnic images were the reflection of orientalism that was popular in the fashion of the age with the purpose of highlighting the exotic appearances of the actresses and were the cases where the characters of the actresses had to be expressed in ethnic styles due to the spatial backgrounds of movie works. Secondly, glamorous images were highlighting the appeals of plump breasts, shoulder lines and the bodies constricted in the middle and the Hollywood movie costumes in 1930s. The smooth and flowing silhouettes of the heroins of the age were mainly long and slim patterns and female's images were expressed by highlighting the beauty of leg lines or especially by halter neck evening dresses that exposed backs and covered breasts. Thirdly, mannish images reflected tough images of males in order to further highlight the reality of the characters of the heroins of the age pursuant to the emergence of the opinions advocating the equality between men and women.

• 한국공간구조학회논문집
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• 제12권4호
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• pp.109-118
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• 2012

The large-space single-layer lattice dome is relatively simpler in terms of the arrangement of the various framework members and of the design of the junction than the multi-layered lattice dome, can reduce the numbers and quantity of the framework members, and has the merit of exposing the beauty of the framework as it stands. The single-layer lattice dome, however, requires a stability investigation of the whole structure itself, along with an analysis of the stress of the framework members, because an unstable phenomenon called "buckling" occurs when its weight reaches critical levels. Many researchers have systematically conducted researches on the stability evaluation of the single-layer lattice dome. No construction case of a single-layer lattice dome with a 300-m-long span, however, has yet been reported anywhere in the world. The large-space dome structure is difficult to erect due to the gigantic span and higher ceiling compared with other common buildings, and its construction cost is generally huge. The method of erecting a structure causes major differences in the construction cost and period. Therefore, many researchers have been conducting various researches on the method of erecting such structure. The step-up method developed by these authors can reduce the construction cost and period to a great extent compared with the other general methods, but the application of this method inevitably requires the development of system supports in the center section as well as pre-existing supports in the boundary sections. In this research, the safety during the construction of a single-layer lattice dome with 300-m-long span using pre-existing materials was examined in the aspect of structural strength, and the basic data required for manufacturing the supports in the application of the step-up method developed by these authors during the erection of the roof structure were obtained.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.85-97
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• 1990

This study investigates, through the Ka-rae-ban-cha-do(가예반차도) in the Ka-rae-do-gam­eui-gue (가예도감의궤), how the system of costume used in ceremony exchanged during the middle, late the Yi dynasty and in the period of introducing Wastern civilization. The procedure of the royal marriage is also studied here. The procedures of Ka-rae were divided into the six traditional etiguettes(륙예) : Nap-che (납채) , Nap-gyng(납징), Go-gi(고기), Chaik-bi(책비), Chin-young(친영), and Dong-roe(동뢰). The change of the general structure and characteristic of the costume used in the ceremony in Ka-rae-ban-cha-do are as follows: The costume in Ka-rae-ban-cha-do can be divided into the Guard costume (호위복식) and the Ceremonial arms costume (의장복식). The most formal attire of the Guard costume, Yangkwan-Chobok (양관-조복) and Samo -Danryeong(사모-단령) with Huygpai(흉배) can be seem only in the Ka-rae of late king's. Of the Ceremonial arms costume, the most outstanding was Hongkun- Hongeui (홍건-홍의), which showed up in almost all Ka-rae-ban-cha-do. Heukkun-Changos$\cdot$Deogrei (흑건-창옷$\cdot$더그레) were worn as well. In the style of costume emphasis convenience and practicality rather than on beauty, because they had to carry the arms used in ceremony with them nevertheless by using primary colors it was very colorful. This costume in Ka-rae-ban-cha-do has little difference, but great changes are shown in Sunjongsunjongbi Ka-rae-ban-cha-do (순종순종비가례반차도). Most costume of the past was replaced with western hat and suit, so the duplicate state of our costume and western costume came into existence during the period of introducing western civilization.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권5호
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• pp.672-678
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• 2011

This was written based on the type and structure of korean man's waist belt in the early and middle era of the Chosun era. The waist belt was excavated from the Mokdaldong in the Daejeon city. The types of korean man's waist belt in the Chosun era were classified into Wondahae (i.e., round shape belt) and Gwangdahae. The Wondahae consist of two types which are circle shaped and straight types. The circle shaped wondahae contain one fringe in the main body of the belt and its joint part is decorated with a small network such as lacing decoration with the size about 1 cm around. The shape of the Wondahae has been changed from the circle shaped into the straight types and also has a tendency to be wider and longer as time went by. The standard form of the Gwangdahae is straight with about 2-3 cm width and elaborated by lacelike fringe as well. This also has a tendency to be wider starting from the 1600s show. The structure of this belts were divided into braid and ornament parts. The ornament part was constructed with the lacelike netting and fringe parts. The sophisticated craft techniques have a great decorative beauty. Through an analysis of FT-IR, the materials of those three belt are known which are made of the silk and the core thread was filled with cotton. Moreover, it can be confirmed that the glitter material of the ornament part were designed with gold foil and has been analyzed with SEM-EDX.

• 농업과학연구
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• 제41권3호
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• pp.193-203
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• 2014

Natural Monument is a designated cultural property as part of the country. According to Article 2 of the Cultural Properties Protection Act, a national, ethnic and global heritage artificially or naturally formed, with a great historical, artistic, scientific and landscape significance is defined as a cultural heritage. Animals, plants, topography, geology, minerals, caves, biological products and special natural phenomena, having a great of historic, scenic and scientific value, are defined as the monument. According to Article 3 of Cultural Properties Protection Act, the conservation, management and utilization of National Heritage should be kept intact in its original form. So, Natural monuments are managing as retained its original form under the Basic Principles of current law. The highest population of coniferous tree in natural monument plant is ginkgo tree including 22 objects, followed by pines, junipers that order. And in case of broadleaf tree, there are zelkova trees, retusa fringe trees, pagoda trees, cork oaks, silver magnolias and etc. There are many of reported efficacy in available natural monument plants. The efficacy of plant species on pharmaceutical like anti-cancer, anti-diabetic, anti-obesity, antioxidant activity, neuroprotective, improves cholesterol, anti-inflammatory, liver protection and anti-bacterial efficacy, on cosmetics and beauty like the inhibiting formation of skin wrinkles, whitening effect, variety of materials and the efficacy of the proposed utilization of its various papers and etc have been widely reported. Before the Nagoya Protocol enters into force, the future role of the National Research Institute for Cultural Properties Administration of Cultural Heritage should be obtain a legal right to manage the social, cultural and national natural monument with emotional value to the plant genetic resource as a natural monument efficient ways to study and preserve traditional knowledge biological resources by securing a claim to the sovereignty of the material will be ready.

• 복식
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• 제26권
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• pp.69-85
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• 1995

Recently Southeast Asia has developed, so the world concerns about these regions. Ethnic fashion in 90's is mostly the influence of these regions' folk costume. The purpose of this study is to review aes-thetic aspects of folk costume in Southeast Asia, to investigate the influence on modern fashion and to predict the possibility of Asia fashion's adaption to modern fashion and to help the cre-ation of fashion design. First of all, the folk costume in Southeast Asia is classified drapery style and sarong style. These non-west clothing appeal to modern fashion as the oriental tranditional beauty. Ethnic fashion appeared in 1990's is attempted to be more complex and variable than the pre-vious ethnic fashion. Asian ethnic fashion influenced from folk costume of Southeast Asia is-wholly or party-the style, color, motif from each country's folk costume. And each country's unique art became the motive of the creative design. Specially, Aosai and Quan in Vietnam and sar-ong style in most Southeast Asia are important motives expressing minority's nostalgia. These are expressed in variable ways. Which are harmonized with latest other fashion trend : retro style and naturalism, Layered look, hippie look, unfinished sewing technic and manual technic are used one image matched the folk costume of Southeast Asia which is natural. Another characterstic in Asian ethnic fashion is a multi-ethnic. This harmonizes the different culture between the Orient and the West beyond the age and culture, and combines each folk costume. It is involved that the fashion can develop indivisual country's costumes mixed with her own unique characteristics and the fashion break the traditional concept and disagree with a certain coordinate rule and it indicates that the fashion shows various style, mood, volume and room as well as space. Like this recent Asian ethnic fashion comes to us in a strange favor. The people who are tired of traditional western civilization's outcome will receive a great tastes from the Asian ethnic fashion.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제3권3호
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• pp.212-222
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• 2000

This study intends to observe how the essential elements of art have changed Human's sense of beauty extending over the whole lives as well as fashion through the investigation of Light and Rays which have played a important role in giving birthe to the new trend of art within the upheaval age of various cultures. The peculiarities of which Futurism of Italy and Rayonism of Russia including Impressionism have a great role in giving birth to a new trend of art by means of the development of science technology are like these. Impressionists looked for the origin of the subtle harmony in nature within changes of sun-rays. The special feature of Impressionism paintings was to express the line of vision diversely according to changes of light rather than to focus on the line of vision with clear outlines. Henceforth, Neo-Impressionism which developed Impressionism more systematically leaded changes of Light and Rays more systematically and scientifically and maintained Divisionnisme techniques which extends to lead towards color and light through dividing and juxtaposing color. In the early 20th century Futurists tried to express dynamism through the interpenetration of light and revive color and light through the division techniques of color and persist an artificial light like eletricity rather than a natural light. Rayonism of Russia which was ifluenced from Impressionism and Futurism maintained intersection of reflecting rays which emerges from an object of things more deeply. This pursuit of light and rays also light and rays also appears as it is in modern fashion. First, it is the fashion which applied sun-rays persisted by Impressionists and expressed colors which show differently according to direction of light. Second, it is the fashion design which re-analyzed what Futurists expressed artificial light and rays. Third, it is the design which expressed Divisionnisme theory persisted by Impressionists and Futurists into fashion as it is and was made of being divided the form of glittering light into small dots. Fourth, it is the fashion design which applied Rayonists'work which applied intersection of reflected rays. Like this, it is aproved that the pursuit of light and rays expresses as it is in modern fashion of the 21st.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제14권
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• pp.321-333
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• 1996

<심청전 목판 체>는 질박·고졸하며 간결하고 강한 맛을 내는 멋스러운 글자꼴이다. 특히 이 글자꼴은 조선후기 사대부 취향의 도서로서 만족할 수 없었던, 서민층의 욕구를 충족시키기 위해 판매를 목적으로 발행된 방각본 소설에 사용되었다. 이 글자꼴은 한글 창제 초기의 기하학적이고 원리적인 한글 꼴이 붓이라는 필기도구의 영향을 거쳐 목판의 칼 새김 맛과 목판 인쇄 특성에 따라 서민적인‘허튼 꼴’로 정착한 것이라 할 수 있다. <심청전 목판 체>의 특징은 전체적으로 납작한 형태로, 가로줄기·보가 가늘고 세로줄기·기둥이 두텁다. 그 자소 단위의 쪽 자는 최대한도 허용된 자리를 차지하고 살리면서도 공간 이용에 짜임새가 있고, 단순하면서도 변화를 추구하는 형태적 특징을 갖는다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.27-34
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• 2006

Flexibility, love of symbols, small size-these are all qualites that accompany the proclivity towards compactness in Japanese culture. They developed and have been refined to an unusual level in Japan partly out of the necessity to use limited space economically, but these qualities also characterize the aesthetic preferences of the people. Because space is so precious, it receives a great deal of attention in every aspect of life. Over the centuries Japanese have devised innumerable ways to use space that are ingenious in their successful combination of pragmatism, harmony, and beauty. Folding, stacking, rolling, nesting, carrying, consolidating, miniaturizing and transforming are some of the techniques for living that have created the compact culture. Folding allows a one-dimensional object to be placed in prescribed small space. Stacking objects of the same shape makes use of vertical space, saving valuable horizontal space. Rolling an object reduces it to a tidy cylinder without creasing it, creating yet another form of repose for functionally flat things. Nesting several identically shaped objects of graduated sizes is known as ireko. Carrying things by hand makes them available for any occasion, by plan or on impulse. Consolidating is to bring together the multifarious systems of living into an integrated whole. Miniaturizing things is a way to bring even the universe down to the scale of a human hand. Transforming the face of things is another notable propensity in the Japanese life style. Each one is put to use in countless ways, suggesting principles and conceptions that encapsulate the wisdom of tradition. In this study I wishes to investigate the principals of Japanese traditional design and the applied case in fashion goods.