• 한국의류학회지
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• 제24권1호
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• pp.105-115
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• 2000

This study was intended to find body pattern of middle aged women and make new experimental basic pattern for upper-half of the body for them. This experimental pattern on the idea of body pattern analysis was prepared. For experimental pattern, the prototype basic model was chosen with the best qualified D model from the four meaningful existing patterns. After several steps of correction experimental pattern was made. Comparing with basic D model, the new experimental pattern composed of additional bust girth by 1cm, wider back waist by 0.5cm than front waist and additional armhole by 0.5cm keeping the same size for back and front widths. Making a shoulder line up by 3cm the armhole became deeper accordingly and the room for girth has been transferred to length. Front neck girth became deeper downward but back neck girth risen a little bit. Side line of the bodice formed with inward slope taking from the waist line by 2cm. Instead of dart, modified side line slope was more practical by its function and appearance. Abdominal girth which is lower than waist girth by 8.5cm kept in same size with bust girth. Then abdominal girth became more comfortable. New experimental pattern with changes has been examined in function and appearance. In conclusion, the new experimental basic pattern for the middle-aged women has been proved more practical for both in bodice and sleeve than other existing ones in terms of function and appearance.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권11호
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• pp.1627-1637
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• 2002

The objective of this study is to analyze the images of basic bodice apparel displayed on the PC monitor connected to digital camera, and to suggest a more efficient alternative method that enables the expert judge to evaluate the subject both traditional method and displayed images on the computer. Appearance evaluation has traditionally been assessed using subjective method dependent upon expertjudges' senses with the naked eye after direct observation of a living model. This research faces the new challenge focusing on the sensory evaluation of appearance for basic apparel patterns, which can overcome the space and time limitations of the traditional feet methods. A total fifteen basic bodice garment (3 types of $pattern\;{\times}\;5$ subject) were constructed with same fabrics. The appearance evaluation items consist of lg questions of upper torso. The image takes font, back and side view of the dressed subject with three different situations. Data was analyzed using percentiles, standard deviation T-test and ANOVA. Taken together, the present result of appearance evaluation through digital camera image shows that there is a significant difference ($p{\leq}.001$) in the response to the placement of the neckline, the waist & shoulder dart, the general ease of the bust & waist area, the side seam, the perpendicular of the waist hem and general acceptability between the above three different situations; the image in the condition of greenish yellow background with front light showed the highest score through all questions. These results depend on the kind of background colors with the light.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권5호
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• pp.463-474
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• 2003

In this research, adult women＇s shoulder types were Classified through direct and indirect measurements to present a judging individual body size according to the type. Also, regression formula by shoulder types were calculated and presented the basic bodice pattern. The results were as follows: 1. The result of factor analysis indicated that 6 factors were extracted through factor analysis and those factors comprised 66.1 to of total variance. 2. By using factor scores, cluster analysis was carried out and subject were classified into 5 clusters. Type 1 was the inclined shoulders, wide shoulders and passive posture. Type 2 was the front type shoulders and active posture. Type 3 was the thick shoulders and back type shoulders. Type 4 was the narrow shoulders. Type f was the drooped shoulders, thin shoulder and sway posture. 3. The body types of individuals were judged by discriminant analysis. 4. After setting 4 items such as the bust girth, posterior waist length, neck base girth and waist girth as representative items and regression formulas were presented. the superiority of the final basic bodice patterns were demonstrated by high approval rate of the subjects who participated in testing.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제21권5호
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• pp.755-764
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• 2013

This study intends to use the basic patterns in 3oz bodice and 2oz sleeve padded jackets made for women in their 20s to research the proper ease of 2oz bodice and 2oz sleeve, 4oz bodice and 3oz sleeve padded jackets. The study also proposes a method of designing padded jacket patterns according to padding thickness. The results of this study are as follows: The 2oz bodice and 2oz sleeve padded jackets had the following sizes. The front and back bust, waist, and hip circumferences were calculated as B/4+2.5cm and B/4+3cm, W/4+2.6+3.3(D)cm and W/4+1.5+2.6(D)cm, and H/4+2.8cm and H/4+3cm, respectively. The length of the jacket was 62.4cm, and the sleeve length was calculated as 63.4cm. For the 4oz bodice and 3oz sleeve padded jackets, the front and back bust, waist, and hip circumferences were calculated as B/4+4cm and B/4+4cm, W/4+4.1+3(D)cm and W/4+2.5+3.6(D)cm, and H/4+4.3cm and H/4+4cm, respectively. The length of the jacket was 63.2cm, and the sleeve length was calculated as 64.2cm. The results of this study showed that padded jackets with thicker padding need more ease. For jackets with stitches, the decreased lengths must be added in the pattern length. The 2oz bodice and 2oz sleeve, 4oz bodice and 3oz sleeve padded jackets all scored 4 points or higher in the movement functionality assessment, thus showing outstanding movement functionality.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권3_4호
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• pp.429-440
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to classify the types of men's shoulders through the criteria which represent the characteristic of men's shoulders. In addition, we introduce new bodice patterns depending on our classification. We have the fo11owing conclusions based on our sample size of 200 men's shoulders: 1. The result of factor analysis indicates that six factors are extracted and they consist of 62.3% of total variance. We then choose three factors as standard items for our classification of the shape of men's shoulders. 2. We divide the shape of shoulders into three categories: bent, slopeness, and thickness. Each category is divided into three subcategories. (a) Bent: If one's shoulders are bent forward or backward, then we call them front or back-bent type. Otherwise, they are called standard-bent type. (b) Slopeness: If one's shoulders have an easy or steep slope, then we call them easy or steep slope type. Or else, they are called standard slope type. (c) Thickness: If one's shoulders are thick or thin, then we call them thick or thin type. Otherwise, we call them standard thick type. 3. According to the frequency based on our data entries of 200 men's shoulders, we introduce five new types of men's shoulders. 76.5% of examined men's shoulders belong to one of these five types: (a) 8.0% of standard slope and back-bent type: (b) 9.5% of easy slope and standard-bent type; (c) 45.5% of standard slope and standard-bent type; (d) 5.5% of steep slope and standard-bent type; (e) 8.0% of standard slope and back-bent type. 4. The suitability of new basic bodice patterns based on the types of men's shoulders are demonstrated by the high approval rate of the subjects who participate in testing.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제21권2호
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• pp.189-202
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• 2019

This study develops a bodice pattern for high school girls aged 17 to 19 that use virtual garment simulation. The study developed a bodice pattern based on the fit evaluation result for two selected bodice patterns. The basic formula of the design method based on the result of 3 times of fit evaluation is as follows: waist back $length=stature/8{\times}1.85cm$, waist front length=waist back length+bust/40+0.7cm, front bust girth=bust/2+4cm, back bust girth=Chest/2+3cm, armscye depth=Chest/4+0.5cm, back interscye length=bishoulder length -1.2cm, front interscye length=back interscye length -1.2cm, front neck width=back neck width -0.3cm. The developed bodice pattern used Bishoulder Length as a criteria for the calculation formula of back interscye length, and back interscye length as a criteria for the calculation formula of front interscye length. The fit evaluation showed the relevance of the bishoulder length, front interscye length, and back interscye length based on a comparison of the calculated figure. A bodice pattern with great body suitability and fitness to high school girls was developed through 3D virtual garment simulation that calculated the application of body proportion to width. This study only analyzed the evaluation result of a virtual model only in a representative form; however, a pattern study is also proposed to compare and analyze the design methods of patterns by body type.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제25권2호
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• pp.13-23
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• 1987

The present study is undertaken to utilize the computer in pattern making of Jeugo-ris for women. The results are as follow: 1. Basic points which can be connected to depict basic pattern are represented with the numerical expreession and the curved lines consist of three types of arc. 2. The patterns of Jeugo-ris were automatically depicted by inputting the standard size(large, medium and small) and body measurements for bodice(bust girth, center back length, sleeve length). 3. This program includes the function of expressing the specific parts of patterns and of extending the patterns with or without standard lines.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제16권5호
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• pp.969-977
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• 2007

The research thesis has been intended to make a comparative analysis on the basic bodice pattern and basic skirt pattern changing on the basis of setting waist line of dress form in an effort to set reasonable standards in selecting the standard lines of drees form. The thesis has made the wearing evaluation by producing the sample of upper and lower dress based on A pattern and B pattern. In details, A pattern functions to keep waist line flatly down from lateral waist-right to posterior waist in a little curved state, paralleling bust line and hipline with waistline. And, B pattern functions to keep waistline, bust line and hipline horizontal paralleling with ground surface. SPSS win 10.1 program was used for the analysis of evaluation and t-test. The result is as follows: For basic bodice-front of upper dress, A and B patterns have made little significant difference. With regard to basic bodice-back, B pattern has got the higher evaluation than A pattern, in the pattern stability and appearance. For basic skirt pattern, A pattern has got the lower evaluation in the aspect of total back appearance, back dart, hip line, and waist line, and front drape. Basic bodice pattern of A pattern, which takes on the different horizontal standard lines of dress form depending on the selection of waistline, and basic skirt pattern has scored less in terms of pattern stability and appearance.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제22권4호
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• pp.482-492
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• 1998

With the purpose of developing a objective fitness evaluation system for knits, the basic bodice pattern for knit was drafted and the suitability of the altered pattern was evaluated. For each of nine different knits, six sleeveless shirts were made with patterns that were altered by different pattern alteration rate: 0%, 30%, 40%, 50%, 60%, or 70% of the stretch rate of the knit. The panel that was composed of 25 clothing specialists evaluated the fitness of the garments. The distance from the dress form landmark to the garment landmark was measured from each experimental garment. And the results of garment fitness evaluation and the measurement of distance from the dress form landmark to garment landmark were compared. The results of this study are as follows: There was high correlation(r$\geq$0.9) between the evaluation of the panel about the garment fit and the landmarks distance. The stretch rate of knits affected the evaluation of the garment fit. The stretch rate in course of knits affected on the garment fit at crosswise direction. The suitable pattern alteration rate was lower than 30% for the knits with high stretch rate in course. It was concluded that in order to get the appropriate knit bodice pattern length, the front bodice pattern must be less shorten than the back bodice pattern. The alteration rate at hip line must be lower than for waist or bust line.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권3호
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• pp.434-442
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to develop the beautiful basic bodice pattern that satisfied both functionality and aesthetics on the basis of the change in the figure and length of surface body for each movement through a three-dimensional development figure of surface body for young women (aged between 18 and 24) who were very sensitive to fitness of clothes. Existing three basic bodice patterns (Yim wonja-, ESMOD-, and FIT-types) were selected and then compared and analyzed in terms of drawing methods and the wearing test was carried out by a sensory test in order to design an experimental prototype. The design of study prototype was improved by three wearing test that was correlated with low satisfactory item. And the ease was established by difference of previous direct measurement and body surface measurement.