• Cross-Cultural Studies
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• v.46
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• pp.379-409
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• 2017

The villainous characters of the Marquis de Sade do not regard pity and consternation that one usually feels at the sight of poor people as natural. Such feelings are simply rejected. Therefore, Sade's characters immediately suggest that the hospitals established by religious congregations under the Ancien Regime should disappear. However, it is important to note that enlightened thinkers are aware of the abuses caused by hospitals at that time, claiming that they are to be blamed for the worsening situation of the poor. Thus, the General Assembly of the Constituents tried to nationalize the possessions of the hospitals, going as far as abolishing every charity institution. This article aims at linking Sade's hatred for hospitals to the issues his contemporaries raise about charity institutions. More particularly, revolutionary thinkers want to replace the considerably rich hospitals with small hospices or domiciliary care. Such actions will help reduce national budget spending and simplify the administrative procedures. Sade's libertines view poverty issues in the society from different perspectives: philosophical, political and economic. Let us not forget that they insist on social assistance systems which would suit both the ideals and the circumstances of the new Republic. We understand that Sade took precautions against the impending return of religion and monarchy, which were expelled by the Revolution. Under the Ancien Regime, people tolerated hospitals on the pretext that they arouse natural feelings such as beneficence and compassion. Well, to say the least, Sade is not wrong in raising awareness on this issue.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.1
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• pp.120-136
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• 2012

This thesis takes an aim to investigate the relationship between the costume and enlightenment ideology by studying the change of costume, and reviewing the portraiture of Queen Marie Antoinette. The method of this research is to select the 29 pieces among the portraitures from 1770 to 1793, and to analyze the headdress, shape of robes and ornaments. The results are as follows. The first period(1770-1774): The costume in this period of Dauphin of France is described as vivid, and simple like her characters, and also represents her active lifestyle. The ideology of equality between the two sexes from the enlightenment slightly influence the costumes seen inside the portrait of Dauphin. The second period (1775-1779): This is the early period of the Queen's enthronement and also before her childbirth. The relatively small number of portraits showed her as an authoritative figure because her skirts were expanded with huge panier, the waist were tightened with corset, and her headdress was enlarged. Thus, this period could not be defined as the one of enlightenment philosophies in light of the persistent unsanitary construction of costumes distorting the body. The third period(1780-1789): There are many portraits depicting the Queen and her children. It is noteworthy that the English style picturesque garden was illustrated as a background while the costume was simple and sanitary, both being affected by the enlightenment. The last period(1789-1793): This is the period between the French revolution and the death of the Queen. The form of costumes was transformed into the neoclassic style, headdress was reduced in size, and was simplified as a result of complete change of costume for the enlightenment. This research is to be interpreted as a tool of study about the relationship of costume, society and ideological streams and also be a means of elucidating the contemporary times in view of the past ones.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.203-210
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• 2012

Since a private museums started in Europe 17C, many private museums established for high-class people like aristocrats to collect and to keep art works and to appreciate for limited members. After the French Revolution in 18C, the publicity became an important social issue through all European regions, and the museum gradually changed into public ones. Like that, as the concept of museum changed, its social role as well as its function was also changed. The concept of collection and display or preservation changed into the concept of exhibition and appreciation featuring the publicity. With the year-round exhibition, a classical concept, the planned-exhibition, a new active concept set as an important factor for a museum's projects. The latter concept embraces new social issues. Therefore as the space for planned-exhibitions reflecting social issues every season was needed, a museum sets its planned-exhibition space with the changeability, and gradually expands this kind of space in size. It is expected that planned-exhibition spaces characterized as the changeability may give some changes on the flow of a museum's overall space, and may have substantial influences on the flow. To recognize the changes in a planned-exhibition space's influence on the museum, this study selected some national, public museums having the planned-exhibition space, and investigated their influences on each museum's overall space structure through the analysis on space syntax. This study assumed the change of planned-exhibition space as the changes in the number of convex spaces, and measured it. And to understand the planned-exhibition's changes on a museum's overall spaces, such changed assumed as the numeric changes in convex spaces and measured them. In addition, the numeric changes's influence on the overall space structure was analyzed by measuring the overall space's average integration level. Through the above two factors, the 3 research methodologies and analyzed results were drawn out.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.19-30
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• 1984

There is a symbolic term which has realized custom of an era and has eome into fashion since the middle of 1920's. That is Garconne. This paper studied the image and costume of Garconne expressed in literary works, the form of art made it to come into being, and costume of a group of women played a role of pioneers of Garconne. Garconne attempted simple, casual, and mannish costume instead of usual elegance. It was the boiysh style($\`{a}$, la Garconne) which did not stress on the bust and waist like chanel suits used wool jersey by a designer, Chanel ana short skirts of low waist line. They got short haircut and wore low heel shoes. Garconne meant women who were free of convention, were familiar with love a d profession, and lived for themselves in the same manner of young men. They yieled new mode of 1920's. Though their lives were only a period, they manifested the symbol of the period though their figure and designation was not disappeared at the age but was settled as a mark of fixed image. There were several reasons why the Garconne was born. Rapid changes in politics, economics, and society in Europe were occurred from the First World War to 1920 and the trend of custom and art was a turning point. Especially, the entry of women into the society and the mode of Art Deco influenced it directly. The role of a pioneer of Garconne was appeared from the French Revolution. As Merveilleuse, Lionne, and Bloomers wore peculiar clothings ana had life style being irrelevant to tradition, they were talked about. They informed in advance the appearance of new women who were different from romantic ladies and were more modern and active. The pioneer design of Paul Poiret which were over whelming throughout a period and functional design of Chanel were increasingly accelerated.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.6
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• pp.112-126
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• 2012

The style of a dress allows important characterization of an era since they reflect contemporary politics, society, culture and arts. Within a same category, period costumes develop into styles that reflect specific consciousness. The research method and the scope of the study are as follows: the research adopts a historical study method and a comparative research from a microscopic point. The scope includes resistance costumes that proceed with sans-culotte that comprises of the resistance party during the 18th French Revolution (1783-1799), and also a Hippy style which was popularized during the 1960s and 1970s for its anti-war movement. We researched both similarities and differences of design factors reflecting resisting consciousness in costumes that affected costume characteristics related to their socio-cultural background. Sans-culotte and the Hippie style reflect a common denominator in anti-social resisting customs. First, they show common characteristics that combine fashion trends of resistant element and design features. Second, they have common features which are the characteristics of deviation. On the other hand, these two customs also present a discriminative denominator in anti-social resisting customs. In the case of sans-culotte, they tend to symbolize confrontation by dividing into two equal parts: the old and new mode. Sans-culotte confronts the conventional mode and promotes practical costume styles based on justice standpoints. First, hippies pursue an exposition of individual emotions that disclose internal meanings of love and desire. Second, they focus on subjective characteristics and chase after masteries and pleasures by expressing intensity. Third, it extends and develops folk costumes from many countries that reveal ethnic trends. Therefore, this research compares and contrasts different changes in the fashions of revolutionary periods, and aims to recognize the relationship between design and costume characteristics, thus contributing to the predictions of future changes in fashion.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.55-65
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• 2002

The eighteenth century in Great Britain was the period of transformation, Great Britain externally experienced several wars intermittently mid internally transformed into the industrial country in the course of the 18th century. British shipowners were faced with short of seamen mainly due to several wars and expansion of shipping tonnage British shipowners tried to solve the mooing problem by decreasing the number of seamen from 22-23 sailors per ship of 100 tonnage in 1710's to 5 in 1810 and increasing seamen's wage from shillings per common seaman per month in the 17th century to 25 shillings in the middle of the 18th century and equation omitted during the French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars. What caused and resulted by specialized shipowners to cope with changeable market situation with flexibility was decrease of the number of seamen per ship and increase of wage.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.89-95
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• 2002

Object of this study presents marketing of new market segmentation as what I classify a social stratum, and analyze sense of value about each social class clothes and a taste, but is. The study way used a questionnaire as an investigation study way, and I did execution from September to October in 1999, and the investigation object picked up an any table with the woman university student who lived in Seoul and did investigation, and analysis targeted total 550 people. I used a measurement item of economic capital and cultural capital as a classification item of a social stratum and selected a dwelling, a kind of property, an annual salary of parents as an index of economic capital. Presentation held an occupation of parents, scholarship, culture activity as an index of cultural capital. It is social stratum structure an occupation arranges in 12 job categories by, for your reference, I do a social orbit of the P. Bourdieu which is a French sociologist and an index of inheritance cultural capital, and having set up eight phases of evaluation, and to do a Y, Cultural Capital with X with economic capital. Sense of value about clothes and attitude selected social value, aesthetic appreciation enemy value, authority a few value in sense of value of the 6 type that E. Spranger(1922) presented, and a proposal did type in 3 about clothes. The measurement way used a 11 question item and measured I with five phases of Likert-type criteria and executed factors analysis by main ingredient analysis and varimax revolution law. I named a more than inherent 1 with the liver which was social man, aesthetic appreciation enemy man, an authority enemy with a basis. The results are as follows : People of the group which they belong to the same social class, and there is have a similar taste and select a similar product, and scholarship and an occupation of parents please lay a taste of children and sense of value, a hierarchical difference of attitude too and do it.

• International Journal of Advanced Culture Technology
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.21-28
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• 2024

The public can access movies more easily than any other cultural genre. The film's costumes convey the social, political, and cultural climate of that time period. Additionally, it subtly conveys the message of the movie, including the intentions of the director and the characters. Filmmakers can now use fact-based materials to plan their films, and audiences can now watch costume in movies with objective standards, particularly in period dramas, thanks to the advancements in over-the-top (OTT) services. The 77th British Academy costume Award went to the movie Napoleon because of how much emphasis it placed on the outfit. Ninety-five percent of the costume was made by experts in military uniforms and costumery. In contrast to the previous aristocratic and exaggerated Rococo costume, Napoleonic clothing had a natural and common-class character. A natural-shaped Chemise dress composed of light, reflective material first appeared in the Directoire era, just after the French Revolution. Chemise dresses made of a variety of materials gained popularity during the Empire era. With Napoleon taking the throne and Josephine becoming the empress, the vibrant court culture resurfaced during the Empire era. The silk was embellished with gold thread and embroidery, train dangling forms, and different types of sleeves appeared in Empire styles. They wore Pellisse and shawls under the coat. The hair style had long, ancient hair and was adorned with fillets. They also wore straw hats, bonnets, and caps. Long gloves and parasols were also popular accessories, as were pearl or colored jewelry necklaces, earrings, bracelets, and rings. During the Empire era, tiaras were fashionable. Shoes were either low-heeled pumps or sandals. The movie uses Chemise and Empire costumes, which are versatile enough to be used in a range of settings and eras. When it came to details, the type of sleeve was employed without regard to time, such as when using those from an earlier or later period. Since jewelry was worn more often than not in that era, practically every character has earrings on their necklaces. Nearly exact replicas of the coronation costume can be found in paintings by Jacques-Louis David. The red trains, Josephine's Empire dress, the crown, the Tiara, and the costumes of every character in attendance were all clearly identifiable in terms of form and color. To further aid viewers in understanding and enhancing the film's overall coherence, a scene featuring David drawing the coronation was added. Overall, there were differences in that the historical costumes were accurately recreated, the materials and details were utilized without restriction, and some of the costumes were designed with modern materials or accessories that were used more than the historical costumes. This section appears to have been written to highlight the beauty of the characters' personalities or settings. There is a limitation to this study in that it only looked at aristocratic clothing, which includes Josephine's. We will concentrate on male clothing in future research.

• The Journal of Art Theory & Practice
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• no.13
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• pp.97-132
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• 2012

1799 Francisco de Goya published Los Caprichos with 80 aquatint etchings. On 6 February he advertised it on the front page of the Diario de Madrid. The long advertisement which began with "a collection of prints of capricious subjects, invented and etched by Don Francisco Goya" informed purpose, themes and methods of this collection of prints. According to this advertisement Goya "has chosen as subjects for his work, from the multitude of follies and mistakes common in every civil society and from the vulgar prejudices and lies authorized by custom, ignorance or self-interest, those that he has thought most fit to provide material for ridicules, and at the same time to exercise the artist's imagination." The text emphasized that the 'author' of this series didn't to want to criticise any individual and to be a copyist. From his phantasy Goya invented many creatures like the anthropic, humanized animals etc.. With Los Caprichos he stood on the threshold to Romanticism. The early researchers of Los Caprichos classified its author, Goya as an enlightened intellectual. The similarity of the themes of the series with the subjects of the Enlightenment, his some enlightened 'friends' and the idea to avoid the prevalent mystification of his life supported this theory. But this trend became revised since the 80's of the last century. This made possible to research Goya's works in new perspective and to see that Goya didn't criticise the Spanish society and his contemporaries. Rather he showed its reality and parodied through creatures which are mixtures of the reality that he observed, and visions that he invented. Characters and scenes in Goya's prints are ambiguous and equivocal. They have the values which are defined by the dualistic metaphysic in Europe as oppositional, like good and evil for example, at the same time. Goya himself also appeared in various types in this series. This ambiguousness, or "polyphony", as Jennis Tomlinson defined, is a symptom of the decay of the belief in the Enlightenment which spreaded in Europe as a result of the attack of Bastille and the French Revolution. Goya's self-portrait in pl. 43 of this series, "El sue$\tilde{n}$o de la razon produce monstruos" shows the complex psychology of him and his contemporaries as well. As the rest etchings after this print show witchcraft and monsters reside in the world in which the reason of the Enlightenment and the through the reason weakened God's rule lost their authority. In this thesis I will examine and analyse how Goya represented in Los Caprichos the nature of man and its society, as complex being in which the 'antagonistic' value couple as good and evil couldn't be divided, but are united.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2001.08a
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• pp.11-13
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• 2001

For those unfamiliar with the shoe world, Pinet (1817-1897) was a contemporary of Worth, the great Parisian couturier. So I look at the glamour shoes and the world of haute couture, and indeed the development of the named designer. That is a concept we are all familiar with now. So it is not easy to comprehend the lack of names for the exquisite work before 1850. Straightway I have to say that the number of noted shoe designers is far fewer than famous dress designers, but I will introduce you to some of them, against the background of contemporary shoe fashions. Franc;ois Pinet was born in the provinces (probably Touraine) in 1817, two years after the end of the Napoleonic Wars. His father, an ex-soldier, settled to shoemaking, a comparatively clean and quiet trade. It had a tradition of literacy, interest in politics, and was known as the gentle craft, which attracted intelligent people. We should presume father would be helped by the family. It was usual for a child to begin by the age of 5-6, tying knots, sweeping up, running errands and gradually learning the job. His mother died 1827, and father 1830 when he was 13, and at the time when exports of French shoes were flooding world markets. He went to live with a master shoemaker, was not well treated, and three years later set out on the tour-de- France. He worked with masters in Tours and Nantes, where he was received as Compagnon Cordonnier Bottier du Devoir as Tourangeau-Ia rose dAmour (a name to prove most appropriate). He went on to Bordeaux, where at 19 he became president of the local branch. In 1841 he went to Paris, and in 1848, revolution year, as delegate for his corporation, he managed to persuade them not to go on strike. By now the shoemakers either ran or worked for huge warehouses, and boots had replaced shoes as the main fashion. In 1855 Pinet at the age of 38 set up his own factory, as the first machines (for sewing just the uppers) were appearing. In 1863 he moved to new ateliers and shop at Rue ParadisPoissoniere 44, employing 120 people on the premises and 700 outworkers. The English Womans Domestic Magazine in 1867 records changes in the boots: the soles are now wider, so that it is no longer necessary to walk on the uppers. There is interest in eastern Europe, the Polonaise boots with rosette of cord and tassels and Bottines Hongroises withtwo rows of buttons, much ornamented. It comments on short dresses, and recommends that the chaussure should correspond to the rest of the toilet. This could already be seen in Pinets boots: tassels and superb flower embroidery on the higher bootleg, which he showed in the Paris Exposition that year. I think his more slender and elegant Pinet heel was also patented then or 1868. I found little evidence for colour-matching: an English fashion plate of 1860 shows emerald green boots with a violetcoloured dress.