• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.55-65
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• 2010

The present study purposed to compare formative expression between the fashion of the end of 19th century - early 20th century and that of the 21st century which were influenced by art nouveau and art deco. For this purpose, we analyzed contents in literature, Internet, etc.,. According to the results of this study, the formative expression of art nouveau were divided into continuous movement, optical illusion and decorative expression. Continuous movement was used to express fancy and soft images in the end of 19th century, and to express images giving the feeling of speed and tension in the 21st century. Optical illusion was expressed by the movement the thin and soft materials with the body movement and the movement of excessive frills adornment. And in movement produced using thin and soft materials and by the bias cutting method in the 21st century. Decorative expression was expressed as fantasy and decadent image in the end of 19th century and as mild passionate and modern image with color combination in the 21st century. The formative expression of art deco were divided into visual simplicity, contrastive loudness, and functional expression. Visual simplicity was expressed as a boyish image in the early of 20th century, but as a complex expression combining simplicity and femininity in the 21st century. Contrastive loudness was expressed by using colors both in the early of 20th century and 21st century. Functional expression was reinforced through the lightening of design and materials in the early of 20th century, but through using bias cutting high tech materials in the 21st century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.29
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• pp.23-38
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• 1996

The purpose of this study was to analyze the characteristics of the Minimal Art represented in the second half 20th century fashion. All the mode of dress worn this century have developed from the stimulus of a chang-ing society fired by new discoveries and a zest for the new and different. It would appear that even more dramatic changes will soon occur in our clothing styles the effects of which will be farreaching. Many of today's styles intended to dress our psyche rather than our bodies and this if fully understood by the new designers whose influ-ence will become increasingly more potent as we approach the new century. The highly developed material civilization resulted in human alienations environmental distruption, l By this fact human being of the 20th century was to overcome social com-plexity. Accordingly their search for simplicity was interested in the 60's style. Especially the formativeness of the 60s style was repre-sented in the second half 20th century fashion. In this paper it was focused that how the characteristics of the Minimal Art was expressed in the second half 20th century fashion. minimalism was a quest for basic elements repesenting the fundamental esthetic values of art. without regard to issues of content. At its most extreme it reduced art not ot an eter-nal essence but to an arid simplicity. "Primary Structure" the most suitable name suggested for this type conveys its two salient characteristics : extreme simplicity of shapes and a kinship with architecture. minimalist works are charcterized by huge dimensions coldness and absolute aesthetic neutrality. minimalist artists ambition is to de-fine through the most rudimentary materials such as plywood galvanized iron aluminum plastic and wood a new order of the space. The environment is just as important as the object itself. Similary the use of new tough materials. such as vinyl metal and plastic at late half of the 20th century fashion related to the formativeness of the Minimal Art. And the style of 20th fashion was holded the internal meanings in common the formativeness of the Minimal Aet thorough the various texture pat-tern silhouette etc.uette etc.

• Korean Journal of Organic Agriculture
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.399-411
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• 2007

Korean organic farming has been well developed over the last two decades. It demonstrates that the number of certificated farm for organic agriculture and products have been drastically increased in recent year. However, the organic farmers have thought that organic farming rely only on organic fertilizer and they don't keep organic farming principle in which organic farmer should enhance biological activity and crop rotation. This study was to compare nutrient input, recommendation, cropping system and organic product circulation between the early $20^{th}$ century and beginning of the $21^{st}$ century. The population of Korea has increased 7.3 times more than that of a century ago but cultivated land has been decreased during 100 years. The rice production in 2002 was 4.2 times higher than that of production in 1912. The input of N, P and K in 1907 on the basis of King's suggestion was 95.6kg/ha, 15.9kg/ha and 3.0kg/ha, respectively. Nitrogen came from excreta (40%), green manure (55%) and compost (5%) in the early 20th century. On the other hand, organic farmer input organic resources such as wood chip (30.1%), compost (27.8%), rice straw (14%) and others (25%) these days. In terms of nutrient balance calculated nutrient and absorption by plants, organic rice farmer apply excessive nitrogen and phosphorus to the soil. They was used to put $7{\sim}10$ times more nitrogen than that of a century ago. Nutrient recommendation was similar in N and P between early 20th century and early $21^{st}$ century. Farmers in both century did not rotate crops in the field. Today, organic farmers engaged in more continuous cultivation than in early 20th century. Farmers in the early $20^{th}$ century produced locally, consumed locally the agricultural products, but organic farmers in the $21^{st}$ century produce the organic product in the local farmland and consumed in the large city and also a lot of foreign organic products have been imported in recent year.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.29 no.1
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• pp.1-12
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• 1991

The purpose of this study was to identify external form and internal symbolism of oriental dress on the 20th century western fashion. Documentary studies and objective studies were done with descriptive, inductive and content analytic methods. In documentary research, concepts about culture, dress as a cultural sub-system, the from of dress, and the gender symbolism of dress were reviewed. In objective research, oriental fashion photographs in $\ulcorner$Vogue$\lrcorner$ during 1969-1989 were selected and analyzed, for the descriptions of samples, the form of dress, the perception of waist parts, the dressing manner. The synthetic results were as followes; 1. There were the geographical and national terms such as east, Orient, China, India, Japan, and so on in the descriptions of samples; and there were the costume terms such as herem, kimono, pyjama or pajama, sarong, and so on in the descriptions of samples. 2. The from of oriental dress on the 20th century western fashion was identified with draped type. This can be interpreted that in orient, there was no desire to reveal body figure through dress, therefore, for the long time, sustaining draped type of dress has been. 3. The perception of waist part in oriental dress on the 20th century western fashion was not made. So, it can be interpreted that in orient, there was no desire to distinguish both sexes through the emphasis of waist part in dress. 4. The dressing manners of oriental dress on the 20th century western fashion were wearing of trouser and layering mainly, symbolizing the confusion of gender distinction through dress.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.67-81
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• 2003

This study is for analyzing relationship between clothing and shoes design in the 20th century fashion through studying changes of fashion style. At the beginning of the 20th century, the length of skirts became shorten, so that shoes can be shown. For the result of that. shoes has been developed rapidly in its shape, color, material and ornament with having relations with clothes. The 1st World War made fashion to change into economical style. According to that, shoes also changed with regarding its activities and economical efficiency. In the middle of the 20th century. according to the development of mass media. the stars fashion influenced on the trends of clothes and shoes. As young generation. who leads fashion trends, prefer easy and active clothes, shoes also changed into easy style, sneakers were worn widely and platform sole was applied into various shoes. As a result of this study, shoes design was dynamically changed according to fashion style. The study on its functional efficiency is actively studied now however. the study of shoes design is not. When regarding shoes were always worn with clothes, it is impossible to think shoes and clothes are two things. and also I hope the study on relations between clothes and shoes can be more active and consistently implemented.

• Journal of the Korean Professional Engineers Association
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.57-61
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• 2001

There has never been a point in tine as the $20^{th}$ century where mankind has faced various Issues. During the past century, the human race has come to believe that the law of nature can be substituted by the development of science and technology. Scientists have worked on the atomic bomb and mainpulated the structure of the DNA. The $20^{th}$ century is a special landmark In human history. The various privileges that we are entitled to now are all the products of this century. The world population has Increased from 600 million In the 18u century to 900 million In the 19a century. This was larger due to the advance of science and technology during the 20u century. At this speed, it is anticipated that It will reach 30 billion by the end of the century. From a political perspective. there was turmoil. From an economic perspective, there were quantum leaps. The significant development of science and technology has enhanced the quality of human life. The $21^{st}$ century now awaits us. Things like memory cells and brain transplants may be realized and nuclear fusion may happen In the near future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.9 s.109
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• pp.50-65
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• 2006

The purpose of this research is to analyze the plasticity of women's hats in the 20th century. This paper reveals the characteristics of formation through the historical survey of women's hats, which can be used as a basic design data for developing high value added products. Hats have been worn to play as key roles of various social codes. During the 20th century, functional roles of hats still existed, and the roles of ornaments had been gradually increased, however, the roles with symbolic meanings of regarding social class had been weakened. The major plasticities of hats can be generally analyzed based on the shape, material, technique, and ornament. As the time passed by to the end of the 20th century, flat-shape hats have been worn casually in both Western countries and Korea.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.3
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• pp.1-16
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• 2012

The purpose of this dissertation is to examine the various types of hooded garments that have been worn after the $20^{th}$ century, and to analyze the aesthetic values of them. The study examined various types of hooded garments with diverse significances based on literature and case studies on the history of garments, news paper articles and the Internet. Since the $20^{th}$ century, there has been a variety of hooded garments, such as monk dresses, hoodies, anoraks, duffle coats, some protective clothing, and designers' hooded clothes. Through this research, the study found that the aesthetics of hooded garments after the mid-20th century were as follows: physical protection, anonymity, psychological refuge, fashionability and high-functionality.

• Journal of the Daesoon Academy of Sciences
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• v.19
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• pp.99-124
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• 2005

The Korean Buddhism during the unified Silla era, was dominated by Huayen doctrine, which was developed by Uisang(義相) (625-702) and his disciples. During 8th century, many Korean monks visited China to study Chan Buddhism(禪). After they came back to Silla, they started to criticize Huayen philosophy as a doctrinal Buddhism (Jiao教). Their criticism depended on Chinese Chan Buddhist teachings. Korean Chan monk Sunji(順之), a 9th century, was different from other Chan monks in Silla who were trained in China. His teachings are found in the volume20 of "Zutangji"(祖堂集). Although it is based on Chan thought, it has many doctrinal explanations and interpretations. The conventional studies could not clearify the basis of his philosophy. As my research revealed, his teachings were based on the Huayen doctrine of Chinese Huayen monk Li Tongxuan(李通玄) who lived in 7th 8th century. One of his doctorine is "San shen yuan jung kwan"(三聖円融観). It means the unify of three Holies(三聖) Vairocana Buddha(毘盧遮那仏), Manjusri Bodhisattva(文殊菩薩), and Samantabhadra Bodhisattva(普賢菩薩). Monk Junshi used this theory in his teachings. As mentioned above, "Sunji Hwasan's teachings" included by the "Zutangji"(祖堂集) volume 20 is important as what offers a new viewpoint when exploring the relationship between the Chan and jiao in Silla in the 9th century.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.1-13
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• 2015

The purpose of this research is to analyze the morphological relationship between changes hair styles and changes in necklines and collars in 20th century fashion. After selecting the representative plate by each age for this study, the neckline, collar, and formative relevancy of hair style according to it have been analyzed by measuring the neckline, collar, and the width and height item of each hair style. The results of this study show- that the width changes of necklines and collars were mostly proportional in relation to each other, but the width changes of collars and hair styles were inversely proportional. While the amplitude of necklines and collars' width change was very broad, the amplitude of some hair style's height change was very broad. Regarding width, this result had similar results of the researcher's former research, the relation according to the width of necklines, collars and hair style from 16th century to 19th century. However, regarding height, this result was different from the preceding research in that the amplitude of hair style and collars' height change was very broad between 16th and 19th centuries, but the amplitude of neckline's height change is relatively small. This means various heights of necklines appeared in the 20th century, but more various heights of collars were shown between the 16th and 19th centuries. This research hopes to be helpful by predicting trends in fashion, and to be basic resources to understand the systemic relationship of these factors.