• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.37
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• pp.149-162
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• 1998

This study is thed Embroidery, Cross-stitchery, Weaving, Wax-Printing of technique and design appeared in textile of Miaos dwells in south-west among the minority people of china. The study is as follows. First, the technique of textile1) satin stitch, couching stitch, french-knot stitch, etc. using anther silk thread or cotton thread color 2) cross-stitchery 3) hand-weaving technique which is shaped other warp or weft using simple loom 4) the technique of dyeing of pattern using effect with wax. These methods are singly used mixing together, therefore doubled beauty. Second, these technuque of ornament have other independence, specially ornament apron, sling, sleeve borders, slack borderss, edge of upper garment, take off and put on easily, heighten effect of various ornament, can preserve many years. Third, Maker, female born in this country fashion by need of herself, used liberal method shown in unique creativity of life. This texture make standards capable female proud of intelligent and skill of herself. Fourth, Design appeared in textile like as pattern flying bird in the sky, strolling beast in the field, lion rolling gem, laughing dragon winding snake at gem, birks, flowers, fish, butterfly is used as the wish of long life, a lucky sign. They expressed creativity and unique conception using formation : the technique transform other shape using by omitting or adding or overestimating. Geometric pattern of tartan, revealing, Fifth, composition structure having balance and symmetry or contradiction towards center and circumstance of the center harmonized repeatedly method, expressed unique artful attraction by full composition.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.17-31
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• 2003

$Premi\grave{e}re$ Vision is a leading textile collection held since 1973. In this study, textiles for 2004/05 F/W season in $Premi\grave{e}re$ Vision were analyzed at the various point of view, such as general trend, sub-theme, fiber content, color trend, structure, yarn trend, pattern, texture, decoration, finishing and other technical treatment, and functionality. There were three general trends; natural/ecology, geometry, and combination. Natural color and texture were widely used over the fabric exhibited, and irregularities expressed the natural trend of textiles. Geometric patterns were used for knit as well as for woven. Geometry expressed by various methods such as weaving, knitting, printing, shearing, embossing, and etc. However, geometry shown in this season was not a clear form expressed by weaving, but a blurry, irregular form expressed by various other methods such as knitting. The combination among heterogeneous fibers, yarns, colors, images, and textures was usual, however, the harmony among them was accomplished.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.19-30
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to analyze the tendency of Korean traditional textile studies to review the studies critically and to suggest the new directions. To do this, this study included 164 articles of Korean traditional textile studies published in five Korean major journals from the first issue to the 2009. The identified 164 articles were categorized and analyzed by five areas : study subject, study content, study method, the tendency through times and journals publishing Korea traditional textile articles. The results were as follows. First, in the study subject, the ratio of traditional motifs study was the highest in any other study subject and an actual textile pattern study and society culture historic study were also favored. And, the ratio of foreign textile study was the lowest in any other study subject. Second, in the fiber type of study content, the ratio of silk fiber was the highest in any other fiber type. Hemp, ramie and cotton fiber were followed by silk fiber. Also, the ratio of wool fiber was lowest in any other fiber type. In the weaving type, ratio of plain weave was the highest in any other weaving type. In the times of study, the ratio of the Joseon Dynasty period was the highest in any other times of study. Third, in the study method, the ratio of an actual proof study method was higher than that of literature study method. In the tendency of times, there were society culture historic studies from the time publishing the first edition in each journal, the ratio of an actual textile pattern study, traditional motif study and preservation science study has increased since the 2000. Fourth, in the characteristics of journals, Journal of Korean Society of Costume has published the most articles in any other journal publishing Korea traditional textile study.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.34-45
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• 2004

The purpose of the study was to investigate weaving, traditional dyeing, fiber material, pattern how carpet developing according to Turkey area for using the data that can rear to the export strategic industry for carpet production and development that is correct in culture. The result are followed: 1) Life of the age was expressed in color and pattern using according to geographical environment, climate, lifestyle, religion etc. 2) In the case of weaving, there is Kilim, Soumak that appears only weft on the surface as plane weaving without knot and carpet of knotted pile weaving and knot of carpet is duplex knot difference with carpet of the other country. 3) In the case of textile material, there is use most wool fiber that can get easily from breeded sheep by nomads. 4) In the case of dyeing, did the local traditional color to use dye extracting in dyeing material that can get easily in the area. Red that can extract in madder that can get easily in which area of Turkey, dark navy blue of indigo dye that indigo plant fermentation and cream beige that is wool's natural color were exposed representative traditional color of Turkey carpet. 5) Pattern was advanced uniquely as culture of the area; weaving person's sensitivity and desire are reflected through centuries. Amulet, riches ＆ honors, fecundity and happiness appeared most pattern in any area.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.165-174
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• 2011

Recent years have witnessed that IT-convergence technology has become the most important issue in the global market. Along with this trend, demand for PSS(i.e., Product-Service Systems) design has been rapidly increased in the smart clothing market. A case of the PSS design research, this study aimed to identify optimum conditions for weaving of POF-based flexible textile display(abbreviated as "PFTD") for mountaineer wear with safe-guard function regarding luminescent properties. Based on the findings regarding the optimum weaving condition of PFTD, several designs of mountaineer wear were suggested in this study. A total of 15 PFTD samples were prepared under various weaving conditions of weave structures and density of POF, and the luminance values of each sample were measured. As the results, the types of PFTD with structures and density of 'satin 3:1', 'satin 2:1', 'twill 3:1' and 'twill 2:1' indicated relatively higher luminescence. And based on the results and recent sports fashion trends, two suited mountaineering wears applying PFTD were illustrated in this study.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.65-69
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• 2013

PET fabrics of various luster, fiber thickness(denier), and weaving structure were dyed at the same conditions and determined their grey scale by using naked eyes, computer color matching (CCM) system, and real industry color (RIC) device to evaluate the effectiveness of RIC device developed in this study. As for the luster of fabrics, bright PET showed more differences when compared with semi-dull and full-dull. PET in both naked eyes and RIC device since the RIC device provide the real image of fabrics to observers. As for the fiber thickness, the results of naked eyes and RIC device were very similar while the result of CCM showed lower color grade. Finally, as for the weaving structures of PET fabrics, all the test results by naked eyes, CCM, and RIC device showed almost same grey scales. In these regards, the RIC device developed in this study was comparable to naked eyes by providing the real image of fabrics, however it was difficult to compare the very bright colors such as yellow and fiber thickness(denier) and weaving structure of fabrics.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.219-226
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• 2011

Recently, study of functional clothing for vital sensing is focused on improving conductivity and decreasing resistance, in order to enhance the electrocardiogram(ECG) sensing accuracy and obtained stable environmental durability on operation condition. In this study, four ECG fabrics that having different componnt yarns and weaving structures were produced to analyze their environmental durabilities and electric properties under general operation conditions including different physical and chemical stimulation. For outstanding electric properties and physical properties, the optimized ECG sensing fabric should consist of a fabric of 2 up 3 down twill structure containing 210de silver-coated conductive yarns and polyester yarn in warp and weft directions respectively. The selected fabric has $0.11{\Omega}$ which is relative lower resistance than otherwisely produced fabrics under ECG measurement condition. And it has 7% stable resistance changes under 25% strain and repeated strain.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.67-84
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• 2019

Since the early 2000s, various fashion design products that use 3D printing technology have constantly been introduced to the fashion industry. However, given the nature of 3D printing technology, the flexible characteristics of material of textile fabrics is yet to be achieved. The aim of this study is to develop the optimal design conditions for production of flexible and elastic 3D printing fabric structure based on plain weave, which is the basic structure in fabric weaving using SLS 3D printing technology. As a the result this study aims to utilize appropriate design conditions as basic data for future study of flexible fashion product design such as textile material. Weaving structural design using 3D printing is based on the basic plain weave, and the warp & weft thickness of 4mm, 3mm, 2mm, 1.5mm, 1mm, and 0.7mm as expressed in Rhino 6.0 CAD software program for making a 3D model of size $1800mm{\times}180mm$ each. The completed 3D digital design work was then applied to the EOS SLS Machine through Maker ware, a program for 3D printer output, using polyamide 12 material which has a rigid durability strength, and the final results obtained through bending flexibility tests. In conclusion, when designing the fabric structure design in 3D printing using SLS method through application of polyamide 12 material, the thickness of 1 mm presented the optimal condition in order to design a durable digital textile structure with flexibility and elasticity of the 3D printing result.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.140-151
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• 2013

In order to investigate the mechanical properties of working clothes materials considering industrial settings, the test weaving materials were compared with the existing materials depending on the season. The material design of the test fabrics were changed through fineness, composition, density of materials then subsequently treated with functional finish. As a result of evaluation of the forms according to KES-FB system, Koshi was deduced, and Numeri and Fukurami were increased. Thereby, the test weaving materials became flexible, surface became smoother, elasticity and volume characteristics indicated to have been improved. Consequently, the THV value of working clothes materials for test weaving was increased compared to existing materials which indicated improved result of the total hand value. Specially, the winter cloth material indicated improved drape characteristics and dimensional characteristics, showed improved liveliness as being compressed softly.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.273-279
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• 2000

Interlace textured yarn was developed in order to increase weaving process efficiency. Today, interlace texturing is very useful method of manufacturing the high added value compound yarns for new synthetic fabrics. In this research, new silky type high added value compound yarns were. manufactured by interlace texturing technology and tested their properties. The object of this research is to investigate the relationship between interlace textured yarn properties and processing parameters that is air pressure, yarn tension and take-up speed. The original filament yarns used were TTD(Thick & Thin Semi-Dull) 110d/72f and SCD(Semi-Dull Cation Dyeable) 75d/36f. 27 specimens were manufactured and tested for their physical properties-nip density, tensile properties, multi-step shrinkage test and surface structure by SEM. The air pressure was main process condition to change properties of interlace textured yarns. And interlace textured process had influence on weaving preparation process, weaving, knitting and so on. It has some influence on shrinkage properties of dyeing and finishing processes.