• 패션비즈니스
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• 제28권5호
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• pp.141-159
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• 2024

This study explores the history and defining characteristics of Gwamun during the Goryeo Dynasty and how these elements can be applied to contemporary textile design. Gwamun is a pattern style that features repeated arrangements of various motifs within a defined border. It was particularly popular in Korea during the Goryeo Dynasty and in China during the Song and Yuan Dynasties. The Gwamun styles found in Goryeo relics are categorized based on the shape of the border into three types: Dan-gwamun, which has a round shape; Danhwa-gwamun, characterized by a round flower shape; and Siche-gwamun, which resembles the end of a persimmonstalk. In this study, three pattern types and nine design motifs were derived from the formative characteristics of Gwamun. These motifs were then used to create unit patterns based on the arrangement techniques of Goryeo Dynasty textiles, resulting in a total of 18 unique textile designs. The color palette utilized corresponds to the 2025 trend colors, and each textile pattern was reinterpreted with modern hues and design methods while maintaining traditional forms and values. The developed textile patterns were incorporated into a Cheollik one-piece design using CLO 3D software. This virtual application confirmed the potential for integrating traditional Goryeo Dynasty patterns into new Hanbok designs. Overall, this work provides valuable insights that contribute to the diversification and global expansion of K-fashion.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제29권1호
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• pp.15-24
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• 2013

울산시 북산동 출토 고려시대 칠사관모(漆紗冠帽)는 복식사적으로 상당히 귀한 유물로 고려시대 당시의 관모형태를 알 수 있어 역사적 문화적 사회적 예술적으로 사료적 가치가 큰 귀중한 자료라고 할 수 있다. 또한 본 유물은 상대적으로 유물이 부족한 고려시대의 실증적 정보를 제공하는 자료로 발굴 작업에 의한 출토품이라는 점에 의의가 있다. 본 연구에서는 오랜 시간동안 다양한 환경요인에 의해 영향을 받아온 유물의 보존처리를 통해 본래의 상태로 회복시키고 원형을 보존하고자 하였다. 그 결과, 실존유물이 상대적으로 부족한 고려시대 관모의 원형을 보존할 수 있었으며, 재질 및 구조분석을 통해 섬세한 사(紗)조직의 표면조직과 죽사(竹絲)로 제작된 바탕조직을 확인할 수 있었다.

• 복식
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• 제57권10호
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• pp.24-34
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the pieces of 100 fabrics excavated from unknown woman's tomb Incheon, by analyzing woven methods, names of the fabrics, the kinds and the shapes of the patterns. The characteristics to assume the period of the fabrics are as follows. The geumsundan which was woven peacock insignia at chest and back area was excavated for the first time from the tomb of Joseon. Peacock insignia woven with satin weave using supplementary golden wefts, wrapped gold thread. These kind of fabrics were usually imported in the $15^{th}$ century, according to the old documents, 'Nogeoldae' 'Joseonwangjosilrok' written at the end of Goryeo or early in Joseon. Thus, these relics are from about $15^{th}$ century. From this tomb, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie are excavated. According to another excavated cases, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie appears from the period before the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592, and after the invasion, there are usually mixture fabric of cotton and silk. This also tells that these fabrics show the characteristics of those from the early period of Joseon Dynasty. The rounded patterns of Jangot is only shown from the fabrics of late Goryeo Dynasty, and the cloud pattern of an upper garment with a squared neckline is shown from the early Joseon Dynasty. So, the patterns from these excavated costumes are ranged from the late Goryeo Dynasty to the early Joseon Dynasty. To assume the period through the overall study above, these relics show the characteristics of the $15^{th}$ century fabric.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권2호
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• pp.176-187
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• 2007

Buddhist paintings in the late Joseon dynasty are characterized by diversification and subdivision of subject matters. Buddhist paintings rapidly declined since 19th century, being miniaturized and showing complicated composition. Figures that identified the shape of shoes in Buddhist paintings of late Joseon dynasty included sacheonwang that were placed in the left and right bottom of Buddhist paintings, sinjung, gwiwang and pan-gwan of siwangtaeng. Sacheonwang, an Indian folk god, was depicted as a noble person in "ahamgyeong", an early sutra, but was depicted as an armored warrior in Mahayana Buddhism world. The style of shoes sacheonwang in Korea were different depending on the times. The shoes of the sacheonwang sculpture in Seogguram of Shilla dynasty are sandal type. The sacheonwang that was drawn on Jijangbosaldo in Goryeo dynasty wears non-showy armor and red yi(履). The sacheonwang that was expressed on Buddhist paintings in Joseon dynasty wears showy armor and decorated hwa. Comparing the yi of Goryeo Jijangbosaldo sacheonwang with the yi of Bodhisattva on the Dunhuang yeolbanbyeonsangdo, Jijangbosaldo sacheonwang's shoes are Korean style in which the sole is flat and the front part has no decoration, but in the shoes of Bodhisattva on the Dunhuang yeolbanbyeonsangdo the sole is not flat, the front part is lifted. The style of shoes of pan-gwan, who is depicted on Siwangtaeng, is hwa. However, unlike the decorative hwa of sacheonwang, its front is not lifted and it has no decoration. It is assumed that the shoes of sacheonwang or pan-gwan represented obangsaek based on the idea of eumyang-ohaeng. Depiction of shoes shown in Buddhist paintings reflected the phases of the social life. In addition, the sandals of Shilla sacheonwang implies that sourthern culture in addition to Buddhism was introduced. Having expressed the shoes of Goryeo sacheonwang with conventional yi implies that Buddhism governed the inner world of the people, and the shape and material of the shoes reveals aristocracy. It is assumed that that an armored warrior wore yi, not hwa implies that the then society was stable. Also, it is assumed that that the shoes of sacheonwang on Buddhist paintings in Joseon dynasty were hwa implies that the role of tutelary god was stressed in the disordered society.

• 인삼문화
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• 제3권
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• pp.90-118
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• 2021

개성은 18세기 들어 성행한 인삼 재배와 교역으로 막대한 자본이 축적되면서 근대적 자본주의가 발달할 조건을 갖추었다. 일제 강점기 시절 인삼 상인들은 인삼에서 나온 자본을 단순히 지주자본에 묶어두지 않고 산업자본, 금융자본으로의 전환을 적극적으로 추진해 근대 기업가로 활동한다. 20세기 초반 설립된 개성전기주식회사, 대한천일은행, 개성양조주식회사, 송고실업장 등은 인삼상인들이 주축이 되어 공동 투자하고 공동경영을 맡았다. 이들은 기업이윤만을 추구하지 않고 사회 지도층으로서 개성상업학교 건립, 고려시보 창간, 개성좌 운영 등 개성의 교육, 문화발전을 위해 후원자로 나서 지역발전을 견인한다. 자유주의 경제학에서는 주주이익 우선이 기업의 목적이었지만 21세기 들어와서는 이해관계자(stakeholder)에 대한 사회책임을 강조한다. 또 재무적 성과를 중시하는 던 경향에서 비재무적 요소가 더 중시되는 ESG( Environment, Social, Governance) 경영이 중요해지고 있다. ESG 경영은 환경을 생각하고 사회가치를 창출 공유하며 기업의 투명성을 중시한다. 과거에는 돈을 잘 버는 기업이 좋은 기업이었으나 현대에 와서는 사회책임을 다하는 기업이 좋은 기업으로 평가받는다. 20세기 초반 인삼상인들의 기업활동에서는 현대 경영의 필수요소인 기업가 정신과 ESG 경영이 실현되고 있었다. 이들이 시대를 앞서 현대적 경영이념을 실천할 수 있었던 것은 개성의 지역성에서 비롯된다. 개성인들은 조선왕조의 정치적 차별로 관직 진출의 길이 막혀 사농공상(士農工商)의 엄격한 신분제하에서 양반, 지식인이 상업의 길로 들어설 수밖에 없었다. 우수한 인력이 대거 상업으로 진출하면서 개성의 상업은 더욱 활발했고 상인의 가치관도 선진적이었다. 대표적인 인삼상인 손봉상, 공성학은 상인이면서 유학자, 문인이었다. 인삼상인 2-3 세대들은 해외에서 고등교육을 받고 개성으로 돌아와 삼업을 잇고 인삼에서 나온 자본을 기반으로 근대적 기업을 설립했다. 20세기 초반 인삼상인들의 상업활동을 분석하면 ESG 경영이념이 배여 있는 선구적 기업가였음을 확인할 수 있다. 사람의 생명을 살리는 인삼처럼 개성 인삼상인의 상업활동과 근대 기업화에서는 사람의 얼굴을 한 자본주의의 한 단면을 볼 수 있다.