• 복식
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• 제43권
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• pp.259-282
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• 1999

To analyze the characteristics of Orientalism which is expressed in the fashion of the 1990's this study was examined according to three aspects such as form textiles and pattern and the aspects was considered with regard to Chinese Indian Japanese Korean, Southeas Asian and North African style. 1. In form Orientalism which is influenced by latest other fashion trend; Naturalism and Minimalism is expressed as a comfortable casual style which simplifies the way of wearing and mixes the characteristic elements of folk costume with western costume. The way of layerd wearing like knotting wrapping draping and the symbolic from which is inspired by the unique are of each country are shown. 2. In textiles Chinese Japanese and Indian silk as well as Southeast Asian and North African cotton show a splendid oriental impression using vivid color. On the other hand the linens of Korea like hemp and ramie emphasize natural characteristics and show a simple and unartificial oriental beauty. But in the use of material and color it shows a remarkable tendency to break the preconceived idea by coordinating a luxurious silk with a practical denim or harmonizing technical new-masterials with traditional materials. 3. In pattern the decorative elements of Orientalism such as a traditional pattern skills to dye embroidery and other decorations are emphasized on the form of western costume. The sketchy patterns of Chinese Korean and Japanese styles which include the pattern of a flower a bamboo and a butterfly are expressed using embroidery or textile printing. The geometrical seriate patterns of Southeast Asian and North African styles use traditional dyeing methods like Batik. Also the Indian technique of decoration like Mirro Work satisfies handcrafted royalty and feminine romantic taste in modern minimal fashion. The Orientalism expressed in the fashion of 1990's emphasizes the characteristics of people wearing colthing which break the preconceived idea by simplifying the form harmonizing differences between oriental and western cultures and mixing the elements of traditional costumes among countries. Most of all. Ethno using geonmetrical seriate pattern and technical new metal material and Romantic Ethnic using flower embroidery precious stones and beads are appearing as a distinctinve feature.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제32권1호
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• pp.38-43
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• 2020

To overcome the harmful effects caused by conventional oxidative hair dyes, natural colorants becomes more popular in the hair dyeing. By extracting Sagassum fusiforme powders with aqueous alkaline solution as a solvent at 130℃ for 60 minutes, a fucoxanthin concentration of up to 216㎍/ml can be obtained. UV/Vis analysis was used to prove the presence of fucoxanthin in the extract powder. A K/S value of 23.8 can be obtained when wool fabrics were dyed with the extract at 120℃ for 60 minutes under pH 2. The color fastness properties of the dyed wool fabrics were very good as indicated by rating 4 for laundering(color change), rating 3 or higher for rubbing, and rating 5 for light irradiation. The dyed wool fabric was found to have antimicrobial activity against Staphylococcus aureus. The antioxidant and antimicrobial activity of the Sagassum fusiforme extract can be an effective functional hair colorant. Hair dyeing with the extract formulation at 45℃ for 40 minutes under pH 5 accomplished a K/S value of 8.9. The color fastness of the dyed hair showed rating 3 against light irradiation, which increased to rating 5 with after-mordanting of tannin acid.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제31권1호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2019

In this study, eco-friendly functional leather was developed by recycling wastes such as eel skin, marigold(Tagetas erecta l.), hinoki cypress(Chamaecyparis obtusa). The hot water extracts of marigold and hinoki cypress leaves were freeze-dried at $-80^{\circ}C$ to prepare colorant powder. The dyeing of eel leather with marigold was carried out to investigate the effects of dyeing conditions, mordanting on dye uptake, color, morphological change, and color fastness. Considering shrinkage of eel leather caused by dyeing, the optimum dyeing conditions were $60^{\circ}C$ of dyeing temperature and 60 min of dyeing time at 1:100 of bath ratio, and color of the dyed eel leather was Y to YR Munsell series. In order to prevent the degradation of leather from microbe, we conducted combination dyeing with marigold and hinoki cypress leave colorants. In this case, the combination dyed eel leathers showed excellent antimicrobial activity with above 99% bacterial reduction rate against S. aurieus and K. pneumoniae. It was confirmed that all of the dyed eel leathers were sufficient to meet the Korean Standard for color fastness of leather products. It can be applied practically for the development of eco-friendly functional leather by utilizing some useful active components extracted from plant resources and by recycling food wastes.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제33권2호
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• pp.49-63
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• 2021

In this study, a convenient approach for sensitive, quick and simple detection of hazardous acids was investigated. A series of azo dyes were synthesized and applied as a chemosensor for the acid detection both on fibers and in solution. Various aniline, benzothiazole or isoxazole derivatives were used as diazo component and coupled with N-benzyl-N-ethylaniline or 2,2'-(phenylimino)bis-ethanol to give azo based dyes. The acid sensing phenomenon was observed by naked-eye and detection was further confirmed by UV-Vis spectrophotometer and hue difference(ΔH^*) evaluation. The developed sensors showed a distinct and quick color change from yellow to magenta by addition of trace amounts of the hazardous acids. The absorption maxima was shifted to a longer wavelength by 70 ~ 150nm and hue difference(ΔH^*) was 60 ~ 120°. A cotton fiber coated with Dye 1 exhibited excellent storage stability under various temperature(-30 ~ 43℃) and humidity(30 ~ 80%) conditions without discoloration and fading of the fiber sensors. Also the acid sensing properties were maintained.

• 전기전자학회논문지
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• 제26권2호
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• pp.219-225
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• 2022

우리나라의 섬유산업 중 염색가공 분야는 에너지 다소비 업종으로, 노동 집약적 특성에 따라 원단위 생산성이 낮고, 대부분 중소·영세기업 특징이 있다. 염색 원단의 불량률이 높아지면 재염색으로 인한 생산단가 상승과 초과 에너지 투입으로 비용이 증가하기 때문에, 불량률을 최소를 통한 생산량 향상이 초점이었다. 또한 고온고압의 환경에서 이루어지는 염색공정은 사고 위험으로 염색기 원단 투입구를 실시간으로 개방할 수 없기 때문에 실시간으로 원단의 염색상태 확인이 어려웠다. 최근에는 염액을 실시간으로 모니터링하는 연구가 활발히 진행중이다. 본 논문에서는 탁도, pH, 전도도 센서를 이용하여 염액의 흡진율을 계측할 수 있는 복합센서 흡진율 모델 및 구성시스템을 제안하였으며, 실험방법소개와 실험결과 분석을 실시하였다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제25권5호
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• pp.131-148
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• 2021

Upcycling is a sustainable way to recycle waste resources and solve the global problem of environmental pollution. Upcycling is now attracting attention as fiberization and the disposal of waste clothing have become a serious issue. However, the customer's willingness to purchase upcycled products should be increased by propagating that the product value of a reborn commodity is of high value; these products are meant for new purposes and prepared with recycled materials. In this study, we created 11 designer items by applying an eco-friendly concept in the design process of upcycled textiles and products. From 2020 to 2021, a PBL(Problem Based Learning) curriculum was taught in design planning classes. The final 11 design items were derived after developing an eco-friendly product design for upcycled textiles. These final items were as follows: 5 fashion bags, 3 dog products, 1 clothing, 1 fashion accessory, and 1 sanitary mask design. In order to develop only one aesthetic design idea for upcycling, we considered the following features: user-centered convenience, functionality, and practicality. Then, tie-dye, drawing, patchwork, and embroidery were used to create innovative design items. The product design of recycled materials is based on high functionality, waterproofing, and the use of organic natural materials. The results of this study indicate that the creative product design of upcycling has contributed to a sustainable and eco-friendly environment. Related research studies must be conducted for innovating the continuous design process of the future.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제26권4호
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• pp.100-111
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• 2022

After the corona pandemic, when consumers choose clothes, the issue of sustainability has become a more important selection criterion. The eco-friendly functional fiber used in the study is a smartcell, which has functions such as UV protection, decomposition of harmful substances, deodorization, antibacterial and biodegradation. This eco-friendly functional fiber was dyed using five kinds of natural dyes to examine the color change according to dyeability and dyeing conditions. As natural dyes, gardenia, turmeric, sappan wood, lac, and indigo were used. For comparison with smartcell, rayon, a cellulose regenerated fiber, and wool fiber, a protein fiber, were dyed under the same conditions to compare dyeability and color. The study results are as follows. It was found that smartcell had superior dyeability compared to rayon and wool in gardenia dye and showed lower dyeability than wool when dyeing turmeric, sappan wood, and lac dyes, but showed superior or similar dyeability than rayon. In case of indigo dyeing, the dyeability of smartcell was the best when dyed once, but it was found that smartcell had a lower effect on repeated dyeing compared to wool or rayon. Therefore, smartcell has superior dyeability compared to rayon fiber in gardenia, turmeric, sappan wood, and lac dyeing, and in case of indigo dyeing, it is suitable for light dyeing. When smartcell is produced as textile fashion products, natural dyeing is actively introduced and commercialized, and it is hoped that this study can be a reference material.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제35권4호
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• pp.256-273
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• 2023

Among the dyeing industries, the tenter process is a process that improves the quality of fibers by drying and ironing (heat treatment) dyed fabrics, and drugs such as water repellents, antistatic agents, and fiber softeners are mainly used in these tenter processes. These drugs are vaporized in the process of treatment by high temperatures (180 ~ 230℃), and are observed in a complex form such as white smoke, oil mist, and fine dust, causing odor. To treat the complex exhaust gas at the rear end of the tenter facility, most companies operate by installing a wet scrubber and an adsorption tower alone or in parallel, but there are many problems. In particular, the insoluble oil mist at the rear end of the tenter has significantly low processing efficiency in the cleaning dust collection facility, and there is a problem in the facility by adsorption due to the occlusion phenomenon caused by the oil mist. In addition, the odor gas at the rear end of the tenter contains a lot of aldehydes, and in order to improve these various problems, a complex exhaust purification device using cyclone and electric support collector was developed. This study examined the applicability of economical and efficient technology by removing complex air pollution at the rear end of the tenter and applying improved technology than the existing technology.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제25권4호
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• pp.13-28
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics of hippie style in emerging brands pursuing the hippie spirit, examine the changes in hippie style, and apply them to the design development process to propose a hippie style design that reflects contemporary characteristics. The research method of this study was used to grasp the characteristics and current status of hippie style based on a literature review and prior research. Through the analysis of Bode and Story mfg, a new brand that reflects the hippie spirit, the design expression methods and characteristics of modern hippie style were derived, and based on the analysis, the design of the 3D CLO virtual outfit was developed. The results of the study are as follows. First, in addition to the use of eco-friendly materials, the digital technology of the CLO 3D program was applied to the design development process, which made it possible to increase sustainability from the production process. Second, by creating a retro design centered on a striped pattern expressing freedom, revolution, and equality, and a handcrafted design based on a tie-dye pattern, the design was able to express the hippie spirit of loving nature, and through this, a new direction of eco-friendly and modern fashion design was presented.

• 한국작물학회지
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• 제57권3호
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• pp.209-214
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• 2012

나주재래종과 새로이 선발된 나주2호의 지역별 재배시험 결과, 초장은 나주2호가 다소 컸으며, 분지수는 나주재래종이 나주2호 보다 많은 경향이었다. 엽면적은 나주2호가 더 넓었으며, 엽장폭비도 나주2호가 더 크게 나타나 둥근 잎 특성의 안정성을 보였다. 두 계통의 지상부 생중과 건중은 큰 차이가 없었으나, 지상부 전체에 대한 엽의 무게 비율은 나주2호가 더 높아 색소수율면에서 유리하였다. 인디고(indigo) 성분과 니람(泥藍) 함량은 나주2호가 나주재래종 보다 높게 나타났으며 실크로 생엽 이용 염색을 한 결과 청색을 더 많이 나타냈다. 따라서 엽 수량이 높고 색소 품질이 좋은 나주2호가 쪽 재배에 유리한 계통으로 판단되었다.