• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.141-154
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• 2016

The gilt-bronze decorated bamboo mudguards with heavenly horse design excavated in 1973 at Cheonma Tomb of Shilla are the unprecedented relics in Korean history as it has its original structure. Although the bamboo mudguards were excavated in not only Cheonma Tomb, but also in Geumgwanchong and Geumryeongchong, all of them remains into pieces. In addition, there are no exact data related with its structure and manufacturing technique. The report deals with the manufacturing technique of the bamboo mudguards with heavenly horse design excavated in Cheonma Tomb through the naked eye's observation, X-Ray Fluorescence, and Transmission X-rays analysis etc. Bamboo mudguards basically have the three divided structure with central-focus structure of a radiation style. And the mudguards consists of Bratticing gilt-bronze, fabric, and bamboo plates together, as ornamental fringe of 4 plates. The surface of the gilt bronze plates was decorated with a variety of workmanship and pendant. Bamboo plates have a waved pattern by using about three hundred bamboo bark. Two types of textiles were mainly found in the textile plates, and the leather were partially found. In order to combine all plates together, gilt-bronze bottonhead, pendant decoration, and ornamental fringe were used. It would be helpful to study bamboo mudguards during 5th-6th centuries in Shilla period and basis investigations of Geumgwanchong and Geumryeongchong excavations.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.35 no.6
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• pp.612-620
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• 2019

A woolen tapestry curtain, owned by the Seoul Museum of Craft Art, is composed of tabby by cotton-warp and wool-weft threads and its patterned part is shown as a tapestry; paint with pigment has been added to it. The chromaticity of this curtain was measured and the substances in the deep red color were confirmed as Hg by an analysis of the ingredients through X-ray fluorescence. This is presumed to be cinnabar or vermilion. Analyses were performed on a total of seven fabric samples, including the warp & weft of the fabric, its trimming, and its back fabric. As a result, the warp of the woolen tapestry curtain was determined to be a cotton fiber with a middle hole or lumen in the cross-section. Furthermore, an infrared peak likewise showed O-H and C-O binding. Wool fibers as wefts were identified with circular and oval cross-sections and IR peaks showed N-H/O-H stretching and amide(-CONH-). The animal hair samples used in the wool fiber are believed to have come from long-tailed goral or goats and the possibility of using easy-to-spin sapsal dog hair is also not to be overlooked. This was determined through a contrast analysis by the Cultural Heritage Administration to identify the animal species used in the tapestry.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.30 no.4
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• pp.353-364
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• 2014

Formaldehyde(HCHO) may have a damage effect on Korean traditional textiles, because concentration is high and occurrence frequency is frequent at the exhibition room and storage area. Total 20 specimens were prepared using 4 different materials (silk, cotton, ramie, hemp) after dyeing with 5 colors (undyed, red, yellow, blue, black). The specimens were exposed to HCHO gas in the test chamber. The gas acceleration test was conducted to identify the deterioration of Korean traditional textiles according to HCHO concentration(0.5, 1, 10, 100, 500ppm), to temperature-humidity condition at HCHO 500ppm, and deterioration conditions at HCHO 500ppm. Optical, chemical, and physical evaluation was carried out after the exposure. The results, color difference, grey scale rating, formate($HCO_2{^-}$) of some textiles increased at 500ppm, while pH decreased at 500ppm. Also, color difference, grey scale rating, formate($HCO_2{^-}$) of some textiles increased double damage at high temperatures & humidity, high humidity condition. But, damages of accelerated degradation textiles were slight, because of degradation degree and degradation products. The results suggest that determined the damage to the korean traditional textile, damage level, damage-weighted condition, damage to accelerated degradation textiles. In addition, formaldehyde damaged to yellowing of red textiles, bleaching of accelerated degradation textiles, formic acid damaged to bleaching of total 20 specimens.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.20
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• pp.61-76
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• 2018

The National Museum of Korea conducted conservation treatmenton the armor in its collection for the purposes of public display and appropriate preservation. This was preceded by a literature study on the types and features of the armor in order to collect basic data for secure and accurate conservation treatment. The literature study found that during the Joseon dynasty, armor was named in reflection of precise details including the color, material, status of the wearer, and even the certain parts of a suit of armor. In general, the name of armor includes the details in the order of color, underlying textile, and scale material (e.g., iron, leather). The former part of the name presents the features of the garment and the latter part refers to the material of the scales or the status of the wearer. The study also found that main materials used in armor include textiles, leather, and metal, and armor can be classified by the materials of the scales-e.g., metal armor (鐵甲), leather armor (皮甲), paper armor (紙甲), paper-and-fabric armor (淹心甲), silk armor (緞甲). Joseon-period armor can also be classified into four types according to its structure and the method of wearing, and overcoat(袍)-style armor was the most widely used in the period following the Japanese Invasion of Joseon (1592-1598) through the late nineteenth~early twentieth century. Overcoat-style armor was commonly worn by infantry, and the four examples of armor with leather scales at the National Museum of Korea belong to this category.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.37 no.2
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• pp.120-134
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• 2021

A Woolen carpet from the late Joseon Dynasty was unearthed in the process of repairing Seongjeonggak in Changdeokgung. Since relics are rarer than documentary records, the woolen carpet is highly valued as a relics. It is presumed to have been woven in the late 19th or early 20th century because there is a record of repairing Seongjeonggak in 1907. In the carpet, a pattern is made by inserting colored yarn dyed yellow and red onto a reddish-purple ground weave. The selvage of the woolen carpet used cotton thread, and jute is used for the warp and weft of the ground weave. The colored patterns is made of wool in the form of loop pile. Cut piles may appear occasionally when the colored yarn changes, but are almost invisible from the surface because they are pressed tightly with a shuttered weft. Making carpets with jute and wool is thought to be influenced by the Brussels carpets of the mid-18th century. Furthermore, the woolen carpet is torn and the pattern is completely unclear; however, it is understandable that the pattern is partially repeated. Microscopic and Fourier transform-Infrared spectrometer(FT-IR) analyses were performed for the above investigation. To identify the dyes used in relics, we compared them with natural dyed fabric samples based on chromaticity measurements and Ultraviolet/Visible spectrophotometer(UV-Vis) analysis. These analyses revealed that the woolen carpet's dyed green yarn did not use indigo, and reddish-purple ground weave is estimated to have used Caesalpinia sappan.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.62-66
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• 2010

Of all the ways that energy is consumed within textile industry, few are as high energy-expending as dyeing process. The energy consumption in dyeing process amounts to 77% of total fuel consumption, 54% of total electricity use. A technical development in terms of efficient saving energy and time as well is required in the process of dyeing textiles. Recently, dyeing experts are investigating new technologies can conserve energy grafting into microwaves, radio waves, infrared lights, etc. Dyeing industry in Korea, however, the research related to energy conservation has been rarely conducted. Accordingly, this study aims to examine the possibility where especially microwaves could be applied to reduce the energy use and enhance dyeing process skill. This study performs the experiment in which microwave is employed as heating condition in dyeing and figures out as color yield being promoted, bathochromic effect would be achieved. Applying microwaves in dyeing process is expected to lower the carbon emission, energy and time wasted, ultimately exalt economic efficiency.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.6 s.91
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• pp.25-30
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• 2006

Degumming is an essential process to improve the luster and smoothness of the silk filament. Silk varieties were degummed using different methods. A number of methods, from pad-steam to specific alkaline are being used for this propose. In this paper an attempt to compare the efficiencies of different degumming processes has been made. from the results, it may be observed that when silk fabrics were pad-steam, the degree of degumming, as assessed by weight loss. When the pad-steam degumming was carried out at different pHs, adjusted using alkalies, it was observed that at higher pH the weight loss is high. Pad-steam degumming as well as star degumming was found to be superior with minimum damage to the substrate. Among the alkalis used, the sodium carbonate gives the best results, since the weight loss is almost maximum with lower strength loss by over degumming. It is also efficient from the point of view of conservation of heat energy and time as against the comparable star degumming.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.3 s.151
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• pp.447-457
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to document and preserve an unidentified textile purchased at a flea market. This study object is important because it is one of the very rare silk insert series from 1930s which were created for commercial use(as inclusion in cigarette packages). The investigation was conducted by researching the limited publications that discuss silk inserts, visiting many sites on the internet that offer such inserts for sale or catering to the collectors of these silk inserts, and especially visiting the collection of silk inserts, named the J.R. Burdick Collection, at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Several pieces matched the patches used in the study piece. But Buidick's description on time frame(1912-1915) did not indicate the full range of production of silk inserts. After the identification of object, the conservation treatment was carefully done using adhesives. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. The silk inserts of the study object were included as promotions by some company owned by the American Tobacco Company, probably at some time between 1934 and 1939. 2. The initial stage in the conservation treatment was mechanical surface cleaning using a vacuum cleaner. After vacuuming, humidification was conducted to reduce creases in the top of the object. The damaged areas were backed with stabiltax coated with a solution of Elvace 45675 since the fiber of this object was too deteriorated. 3. Adhesive treatments using Elvace showed satisfactory results: flexibility, strength, no damaging effects on the study object, removability without damaging the object.

• 보존과학연구
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• s.32
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• pp.75-87
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• 2011

The materials analysis is important in conservation science for cultural assets since conservators can make appropriate decision of treatment and environment through understanding manufacturing, period and materials. Palsapumdo is the painting of Palsapum which was given by Yi Sun-shin from the emperor Shinjong in The Ming Dynasty. Palsapumdo painted with various pigments on the fabric has remained to adhere a sheet of lining paper. In this study, we carried out the fiber identification about the fabric and lining paper and the analysis of the pigments. This study identified a fabric and a lining paper and analised pigments for the painting. As a result of fabric analysis, it was confirmed as cotton because ribbon twists and shape of kidney bean in a cross section. After the analysis of lining paper, color changed to yellow by Graff "C" staining tests, and had short fiber and tracheid. Therefore, it is supposed to be a paper which is made of conifer pulp. In addition, the results of SEM-EDS, the pigments are indicated as Orpiment($As_2S_3$), Minium($Pb_3O_4$), Hematite($Fe_2O_3$), Emeraldgreen ($C_2H_3As_3Cu_2O_8$), Ultramarine [$2(Na_2O{\cdot}Al_2O_3{\cdot}2SiO_2){\cdot}Na_2S_2$], talc[$Mg_3Si_4O_{10}(OH)_2$], bariumsulfate($BaSO_4$) and brass.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.65-73
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• 1992

To control the hydrolysis rate of PET fabric with NaOH, HCl and $CH_3$COOH(HAc), as regulating reagent, were added to the 0.5 M NaOH solution. The concentrations of acids in 0.5 M NaOH were varied. PET fabrics were treated with aqueous solutions of acids in 0.5 M NaOH under different conditions. The weight loss of PET fabric, the rate of hydrolysis, the apparent activation energy (E$_{\alpha}$), the handle value, the etched surface of treated PET fabric, and the effect of salts such as NaCl, $CH_3$COONa(NaAc), and NH$_4$Cl on the weight loss were discussed. Acids in the aqueous 0.5 M NaOH solution decreased the weight loss of PET fabric bacause of neutralization of OH- and the weight loss of PET fabrics treated with corresponding concentration of aqueous NaOH solution to the concentrations of the aqueous solutions of acids in 0.5 M NaOH was lower than that of PET fabrics treated with aqueous solutions of acids in 0.5 M NaOH. The addition of NaCl to aqueous NaOH solution accelerated the reaction of OH- with PET greatly, the addition of NaAc increased the weight loss slightly, but the addition of NH$_4$Cl decreased the weight loss. It was thought that the very remarkable result that NaCl in aqueous NaOH solution promoted the hydrolysis of PET with NaOH would contribute to the conservation of energy and NaOH in the weight loss finishing process of PET fabric. The etched surface and the handle value of treated PET fabric were independent of the difference in the kinds of acids and salts added.nd salts added.