• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.14 no.6
• /
• pp.39-52
• /
• 2010

Interests in creating three-dimensionally designed fabric materials are growing rapidly in the sectors of the fashionable textiles with the creativity, new functions, and aesthetics. A number of finishing methods have been developed and proposed to add or create new functions and designs for silk fabrics. Due to the strong hydrogen bonds between the molecules of silk fibroins, the thermal treatment methods used in thermoplastic fiber processing, which can easily deform the synthetic filament fabrics to endow three-dimensional appearance to the fabrics, are not applicable to the silk fabric treatment. In order to modify the fine structure of silk fiber, neutral salt solution treatment methods have been suggested. In this study, the effect of the calcium nitrate solution on the physical and mechanical properties of silk fabrics was investigated by using the KES(Kawabata Evaluation System) equipment. Based on these findings, relationships between parameters, for example, the thickness and the compressional energy, the thickness and the compressional linearity, and the air permeability and the pore area statistical analysis were investigated. The relationships between the process parameters such as treatment temperature/time and the resulting fabric property parameters were also analyzed by using several SAS procedures.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.11 no.1
• /
• pp.43-49
• /
• 1987

To study the visual evaluation on the effect of ruffle's gather, the aesthetic evaluation on the gather's measurements and the image evaluation were performed. Evaluated fabrics were cotton, wool ani synthetic fiber, and 3 kinds of thickness for each fabric were selected. In order to seek for aesthetic gather's measurements, we performed the sensory test by the Rank Method on 5 kinds of gather's measurements(I.5 times, 1. 8times, 2times, 2.5 times, 3 times). For the image evaluation on the effect of the gather, we performed the sensory test by the Semantic Differential Method on the gather's measurements were got high score in the sensory test of the gather's measurements and analyzed by means of a Factor Analysis. The results were as follows. 1. Except 2 times of fabric $A_1$(thin cotton), the aesthetic gather's measurements of the ruffle were evaluted 2.5 times in cotton and synthetic fiber, and 2 times in wool. Generally the aesthetic gather's measurements of the ruffle were 2$\~$2.5 times. 2. The image characteristics of the ruffle were established the characteristics of the fabrics as factor 1, the characteristics of the atomosphere as factor 2 and the characteristics of the drape as factor 3. Therefore, we must consider the characteristics of the fabric, the atomosphere and the drape of the ruffle in production of the ruffle.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.25 no.3
• /
• pp.560-568
• /
• 2001

The aim of the present study was to measure intra-individual consistency in clothing and fabric evaluation and to examine its relation to the ratings. A sample of 93 female and 97 male university students rated clothing of 4 styles of daytime wear and 2 fabrics on 15 pairs of polar adjectives twice in 7-days interval. Correlation coefficients between the two ratings for each subject, intra-individual consistency in the evaluation, ranged from -0.12 to 0.89 and mean coefficient was 0.63 of female and -0.01 to 0.78 and mean coefficient was 0.54 of male. Based on the coefficients, the subjects were classified into three groups: high, medium, and low intra-individual consistency. Analysis of variance of mean ratings by the three groups revealed that significant difference existed in 24% of female and 23% of male in 90 combinations of 6 clothing and 15 semantic differential scales. Female of subjects with high intra-individual consistency were most likely definite to evaluate clothing, whereas the ones with low were least. But male subjects were not definite. Mean correlation coefficients for style evaluation subscales of female was 0.39, but male was 0.44. Among the semantic differential scales, high stability in the two ratings was observed for the synthetic clothing evaluation. Correlation coefficients for each clothing obtained from the mean score of the subjects in each semantics differential scale were around 0.98, including that the mean scores of the subjects in each scale could yield excellent stability in clothing evaluation.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.6 no.2
• /
• pp.89-102
• /
• 2004

Modern society is age of sports just as health and leisure became dominant concern, which has caused the fixation and development to sports wear considered as fashion for everyday dress. This paper focused on the development process and aesthetic characteristics of knit design expressed in the 20th century sports wear. The importance and direction of knit design in modern sports wear is expected. Style, items, fabrics, colors, details and top designers were analyzed in sports wear from the 1910' s to 1990' s. Sports wear can be categorized into two of the active sports wear and spectator sports wear. Since disappearance of division between ordinary wear and sports fashion in the 1970' s, the functional wear of leggings, cycle shorts, exercise clothes, leotard, and leg warmer appeared. Vicennial developments of synthetic fibers and new fabrics have caused the great changes in knit design. Colors were vivid in the 1950' s, metallic in the 1970' s and neon in the 1990' s. Sportive sense was expressed by various details. The dominant knit designers who expressed aesthetic characteristics to sports wear were Coco Chanel, Claire McCardell, Balenciaga, Andre Courrege, Pierre Cardin, Yves Saint-Laurent, Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan, and Giogio Armani.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.8 no.3
• /
• pp.1-7
• /
• 1984

Traditionally dyeing fabrics with pigment extracted from carthamus flower was a popular method of obtaining red color in Korea. Such a method existed in several countries throughout the world before the synthetic dyestuff was developed. However, the traditional procedures of using natural products in obtaining colored materials are completely forgotten in modern Korea. The details of dyeing procedures fare not well documented in literature, either. In this study the method of extracting and dyeing with carthamus flower is reconstructed from Korean literature and actually carried out in laboratorf. The reconstructed method is compared with those of Japan, China, France, and Egypt, and the scientific basis of such an ancient tradition is discussed. Carthamus contains two kinds of coloring components : yellow carthamin and red carthamone. Water-soluble carthamin is first extracted by repeated washing and is usually used for the initial soaking procedure. Then carthamone is extracted in alkali solution by adding ashes of dried plants such as carthamus stalks and bean hull. Finally the solution of carthamone is made acidic by adding schizandra juice for dyeing on fabrics.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.22 no.1
• /
• pp.119-129
• /
• 2020

Unlike synthetic dyes, natural dyes do not affect the human body or create atmosphere pollution that are also mothproof, antibiotic and sterilized. This study examined the changes in dye adsorption properties according to mordant types and mordanting method to qualify trends using sage and rosemary extracts. Dyeability of sage extract is often similar to rosemary extract regardless of dyeing conditions. Dyeing properties of herb colorants on cotton, silk and wool fiber and effect of dyeing conditions on dye uptake were also compared. Dyed fabric showed a yellowish color and the dyeing affinity was somewhat good with rosemary extract. The surface color of the dyed fabrics was darkened by mordant treatment. The K/S value of herb colorants of protein fiber was higher than cellulose fiber. The concentration of mordant having the highest dyeing affinity was different from the mordant type. Regardless of the type of fiber, the K/S value of premordanting was the highest in mordanting method, and the K/S value of simultaneous mordanting indicated no noticeable mordant effect. The fastness of washing of silk fabric was reduced the most by mordant treatment. The lightfastness was reduced in Al mordant treatment regardless of the type of fiber. The lightfastness of wool increased somewhat by mordant treatment.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.10 no.2
• /
• pp.179-191
• /
• 2008

This study investigated Korean image preferences in casual wear of women consumers and the effects of demographic characteristics on Korean image preferences in casual wear. The subjects of the study were 653 women consumers who lived in Seoul. Data were collected during July, 2007. Statistical analyses used in the study were frequency, ANOVA and Duncan test. The results showed that respondents preferred to express Korean image by color in their casual wear. When it comes to specific preferences for pattern, fabric, and color, circular shape was most preferred as pattern, cotton was most preferred as fabric, and white color was most preferred as color. In addition, there were demographic differences in regard to preferences for pattern, fabric, color, and types of casual wear. The results showed that there were differences in age, occupation, income, and residence. For example, in regard to age, there were differences in the preferences for fabric, color, and types of casual wear. The older respondents preferred natural fabrics more while the younger respondents seemed to accept synthetic fabrics in their casual wear. Also, women aged over 40 preferred cotton pants for their casual wear. This study showed that demographic characteristics are important variables in segmenting the preferences of Korean image for casual wear market.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.36 no.3
• /
• pp.324-334
• /
• 2012

In this research, the dyeing properties of $Lycopus$ $lucidus$ Turcz on cotton and silk fabrics were evaluated to establish a scientific database of natural dyes. The optimum dyeing conditions were identified with K/S values depending on the dyeing concentration, temperature, time, and pH. For the optimum conditions, the color changes for different synthetic mordants were observed as L, $a^*$, $b^*$ and H, V, C. The color fastness after dyeing and mordanting was also examined. Additionally, the antibiosis of $Lycopus$ $lucidus$ Turcz was examined. The results were as follows: For the cotton, the optimized dyeing conditions were 300% (o.w.f.), $50^{\circ}C$, 40 min., and pH 5. For the silk fabric, the conditions were 450% (o.w.f.), $70^{\circ}C$, 60 min., and pH 4. The K/S value of dyed cotton improved about 1.03-2.78 folds after mordanting. The fabric color was yellow in the absence of mordanting, while it was reddish yellow after post-mordanting with FFC. Although the color changed with the mordanting method and mordant, the overall hue was yellow. Thus, $Lycopus$ $lucidus$ Turcz appears to have the potential for use as a natural dyeing material for a yellow hue. The K/S value of the dyed silk fabric improved about 1.05-1.40 folds after mordanting. The fabric showed a reddish yellow color when pre-mordanted with Al and Cu. The washing and dry-cleaning fastness of the cotton and silk fabrics were at the 4-5 level. The light fastness of the cotton improved after mordanting; however, pre-mordanting was more effective than post-mordanting or the absence of mordanting. The dyed cotton, silk fabrics showed excellent antibiosis.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.4 no.3
• /
• pp.15-33
• /
• 2000

The purpose of this thesis is to suggest the new ecology fashion through the comprehensive approach to analyze the difference of characteristics between ecology fashion established before the early 1990's and new ecology fashion advented in the late 1990's and create the design inspired by the image of new ecology fashion. As a method of accomplishing this research, the articles and magazines related to the fashion were examained. Also internet was surfied for studying social and cultural background of new ecology and examining the trend of new ecology expressed at design at first. Through examining the fashion mode in the late 1990's related to the trend of new ecology, the characteristics of new ecology fashion have been devided by the fabric, color and detail and drown out three images of new ecology fashion. The cultural background of new ecology is advent of fusion, techno and zen culture in the late 1990's. The characteristics of new ecology fashion are as follows. As regards of the fabrics, It's been used naturalized synthetic fabrics such as lycra and tencel produced by the advanced technology as well as luxurious natural fabrics. As the aspect of colors, on the basis of neutral colors shown to the previous ecology fashion, the wide range of colors including the vivid colors has been presented sophisticatedly. The most evident characteristic of new ecology fashion is the increase of details, along with keeping the minimal style. According to this trend of new ecology fashion, three charicteristic images can be extracted ; the techno ecology, the modern ecology and the romantic ecology. As the megatrend sustained during the late 1990's, the trend of new ecology was the mainstream not only of the fashion but also of the human life style, and has the potential continued in the 2000's.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
• /
• v.43 no.1
• /
• pp.41-48
• /
• 2001

The purification, dissolution and powdering of stained waste silk obtained from weaving and dyeing process were studied for the surface modification of textile fabric and plastic materials. The whiteness of stained waste silk could be improved through degumming and bleaching with sodium hydrosulfite. The water-soluble fibroin solution can be obtained by dissoving the degummed waste silk in a boiling solution of 50% calcium chloride for 60 minutes. The salts and heavy metals contained in fibroin solution were removed by electric dialysis, wool fiber filtration and gel filtration chromatography. The fibroin powder was prepared by using a fine grinder after the alkali treatment for weakening the silk fiber. The fine fibroin powder of particle size around 30 ㎛ was obtained with a ultra fine-mill, while it was finer below 10 ㎛ with a ball-mill. The dissolved or powdered silk was applied to the surface of fabric with addition of the binder (a urethane resin). The moisture content of polyester and nylon fabrics treated with the silk solution was improved due to hygroscopic property of silk. The fine fibroin powder mixed with the binder ws coated on the surface of synthetic film by use of the air pressed sprayer. It was revealed that the hygroscopicity as well as the softness of fibroin powder coated film was much improved. Therefore, it is thought that the fine silk fibroin powder is applicable as an coating agent for the surface modification of plastic and synthetic leather.