• 복식
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• 제51권5호
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• pp.157-173
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• 2001

In fashion, there are various cultural aspects that exist in complexity, where according to the era, even fashion items newly develop and prevail into various designs in the organic function with reality of related cultural phenomenon and aesthetic aim. Among the fashion items, the shoe is historically considered as the shield from lust and also the provision of praise against the most emotional incitement. Mankind has started wearing shoes out of the functional purpose of protection since the ancient Egyptian times. Thereafter humankind has been creating shoes artistically in respect to shape, color, and quality of material, etc, as an expression of aesthetical awareness and introspective desire for beauty. As modern fashion increasingly regards the total fashion image much more important than each items consisting the whole outfit, the role of shoe became essential more than ever. Contrary to its relative importance, little academic attention was given to this area yet, while prestigious museums and galleries in Europe and the USA have held exhibitions of shoes in view of both historical and artistic aspects. This study aims to make a historical inquiry of western shoes. through which their aesthetic values can be drawn. Literature on this subject including aesthetics, history of costume and arts were referred. Fashion magazines and catalogues were investigated for additional information. The process and results of this study are meant to be a suggestion not only to further studies but also to artistic and creative shoe design. Originated for the functional purpose, shoes have evolved in various shapes with different meanings attached to it. When the technological development made the satisfaction for functional needs possible, the intrinsic attribute, the aesthetic value was pursued. The historical contemplations of shoes from Egyptian times to the 1990's led to the results that the intrinsic aesthetic value of shoes can be summarized as follows: 1) protection and extension of body, 2) need for decoration, 3) erotic expression, 4) symbol of dignity and class, 5) fashion.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.169-176
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• 2004

The clouds-shaped pattern is originated from Taoism, Buddhism, and Confucianism. It stands for good-luck, longevity and productivity. It has been used on its own or with other patterns since the ancient times. It also has various forms. It particularly was used more frequently than any other patterns as a typical good-luck pattern, representing auspiciousness, divine authority, and so on in Chosun dynasty. The pattern, according to its component parts, is classified as individual type and compound type, which is mixed with other patterns such as treasure pattern, plant pattern, letter pattern, or animal pattern. For both individual type and compound type, swastika-shaped cloud pattern was mostly used. For compound type, the pattern compounded of treasure pattern was extraordinarily used a lot. In terms of the arrangement, the most common arrangement methods were brick-shaped arrangement and dense type arrangement, the arrangement method that spreads the patterns all over the surface. Among the fabrics with clouds-shaped pattern, satin damask fabrics had the majority. Clouds-shaped pattern was used a lot in men's Po(coat), such as Dahnryoung, Jiknyoung, Chollik, etc. rather than in women's clothes. It was a typical pattern used in Dahnryoung, an official uniform that represented people in the highest class in Chosun dynasty. The divine power symbol of this pattern indicated the authority and dignity that the upper class people could have.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.458-484
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• 2001

The costume originated from the idea that it could protect human beings from ferocious beasts. The military costume was from protection against an enemy equipped with weapons. Furthermore, the makers of the costume were afraid of supernatural powers and it made them devise an armour and decorate it by the concept of superstition for the purpose of overcoming it. The function of military uniform was important for increasing the protection against any enemies while they join in battle. However in harmonious time, it represented artwork of peace, dignity, and order. Since the uniform was a king of symbol to show their position, and their role. They could feel proud as a member of a military group they belong to and they gain honor, courage, patriotic sentiment through their military costume. The purpose of this study was to investigate the originality the military costume as it changed and developed continuously from ancient Egypt, Greece and Rome to modern times. This study was performed to show the comparison and characteristic marks of the past, and the influence of them on the modern military uniform. The method used in this study was using past manuscripts of the early times, information attained from domestic and foreign military documents and previously written reports. As a result, the military costume was one of many means of expression of their natural and social environment. It can be said that the most epoche-marking and powerful changes to the social environment are revolution or war. War absolutely has influenced on the changes of the changes of costume and the military armour according to the type of war and the development of weapons. Especially using the amour, the main purpose that of protecting the body has changed into distinguishing our forces from the enemy and instilling fear into enemy, Furthermore, the class who has the power has used it in order to express their power and dignity. Therefore, armour had required two rules to not only protect the body but also discriminating between classes.

• 복식
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• 제54권6호
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• pp.101-117
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• 2004

Opposed to following the contours of the human body, the voluminous enlargement in costume, which characterizes the distinguished enlargement in space rather than the contour of human body, mean the enlargement aspect involving the vertical protrusion and the expansion of shape and volume as well as the extension of length. The costume enlargement as a different method of expression is a symbol showing a meaning of something and an aesthetic expression containing man's will. This voluminous enlargement of costume, as an aesthetic expression, has different formative characteristicsand immanent meanings according to ideals and thoughts as well as social and cultural background of each age Accordingly, the aesthetic consciousness also differaccording to the change of the times. To study the aesthetic consciousness of costume's voluminous enlargement, focous had been given to milieus that show comparatively conspicuous voluminous enlargement Periods that have been subjected to this study include costumes of the ancient Egypt, the Gothic period in the Middle age, the Renaissance, the Baroque Rococo of the recent times, and the modern era (Empire, Romantic, Art Nouveau. etc) With focus given to the principle of design obtained through this study were used to analyze the aesthetic characteristics, Futhermore, based on the spirit of the times and the socio-cultural symbolism, research on immanent meanings, as supported by objectivity and universal validity, was also made, the enlargement beauty of costume had been placed under the aesthetic category and, by interpreting the analogies of presented in aesthetic consciousness, the true nature of the voluminous enlargement in costume had been traced. To Conclude, the aesthetic consciousness of the voluminous enlargement of the costumes in history was found to have following characteristics: (l) Metaphorical (2) Unlooked-for irregularity (3) feeling of satisfaction driven by self-enlargement (4) Dignified sublimity (5) Symbol of wealth and class (6) Ceremonial dignity (7) Tradition of the nobility (8) Aesthetic ornament (9) Ideal contour of the body

• 한국전통조경학회지
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• 제31권4호
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• pp.1-21
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• 2013

본 연구는 회화자료의 분석을 통해 조선시대 취병의 특성과 제요소를 고찰한 것으로서 다음과 같은 결과를 도출하였다. 첫째, 조선시대 회화자료 25종에 대한 분석 결과, 취병은 주로 사생활 보호를 위한 차폐시설과 부지의 공간을 분할하는 구획시설로 기능하였으나, 내적으로는 정원에 품격과 아취를 부여하는 소품으로 설치되었다. 특히 취병 주변으로 학, 사슴등의 동물상 및 소나무, 파초, 대나무, 오동나무 등의 식물상과 괴석, 연못, 정자 등의 다양한 정원요소들이 나타났는데, 이것들은 이상적인 문인정원에 구비되어야 하는 일련의 조합으로 파악되었다. 둘째, 취병은 중국 고사(古事) 속 문인문화를 표상하는 관념적인 물상으로 인식되었다. 그러한 이미지는 고스란히 정원문화 속에 투영되었는데, '인물고사도 속 원림'을 모방 재현하는데 있어 취병은 중요한 경물로 사용되어 왔다. 셋째, 형태 기능 측면에서, 조선시대 회화 속에 나타난 취병들은 기본적으로 차폐 및 구획의 기능이 주요하였다. 사람 키를 웃도는 담장이나, 심지어 중국 대문 앞뒤에 설치되는 영벽의 높이까지 솟아 있기도 하여 공간적 필요에 따라 다양한 형태의 취병이 설치되었음을 알 수 있다. 넷째, 취병은 특정한 기능이나 입지상황 때문에 설치된 것보다는 당시 국내에 유행한 명대 문인문화의 유행과 밀접한 관련이 있다. 특히 중국에서 전해진 서원아집도 등에 나타난 취병의 도상은 한양을 중심으로 부유층의 저택에서 재현되었는데, 취병을 통해 부귀와 문인의 기상을 표현하려 했던 초기양식이 궁궐 및 상류층의 주택에서나 조성될 수 있는 고급 정원요소로 전화되었다. 또한 19세기 중엽 이후 취병의 활용은 평민의 주거양식으로 확산되는 이른바 저변화의 양상을 보였으며, 이는 취병이 토착화된 전개로 간주된다.