• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.149-159
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• 2014

In this study, we develop an algorithm to predict swell-like high waves on the east coast of Korea using the directional wave gauge which was installed near Sokcho. Using the numerical wave model SWAN, we estimate wave data in open sea from the wave data collected by using the directional wave gauge. Then, using the wave ray method and SWAN model with the open-sea wave data as offshore boundary conditions, we predict the swell-like high waves at several major points on the east coast of Korea. We verify the prediction methods with the SWAN and wave ray methods by comparing predicted data against measured one at Wangdolcho. We can improve the prediction of the swell-like high waves in the east sea of Korea using both the real-time wave measurement system and the present prediction algorithm.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.212-221
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• 2016

In this study, characteristics of swell-like high waves in the East Sea were analyzed using observed wave data and predicted meteorological data from the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA). And, the wave prediction system using the data from the NOAA has been established. Furthermore, the applicability of the system has been verified by comparing the predicted results with the corresponding observed data. For some case, there were two times of wave height increase and the second increase occurred in a calm weather condition on the coast which might cause casualties. The direction of wave energy propagation was estimated from observed wave data in February, 2008. Through comparison between the direction of wave energy propagation and the meteorological data, it turns out that the second increase of waves is originated from the seas between Russia and Japan which is far from the East Sea.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.117-123
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• 2016

One of the major characteristics of the swell-like high waves, which occur in the East Sea mostly in winter with large height and long period, is its suddenness associated with the rapid development of high waves from a calm state of sea. To represent such suddenness, in this study, the term sudden high waves is introduced. To propose the criterion of sudden high waves, comparisons were made between the wave measurement data at Gangneung and Wangdolcho for eight years from 2005 and the record of marine accidents and property damage on the coast of Gangwon-do Province and Gyeongsangbuk-do Province during the same period. It was found that most of the accidents occurred when ${\Delta}(H^2L)/{\Delta}t$ was approximately greater than the top 20% or $88.6m^3/hr$, which is therefore proposed as the criterion of sudden high waves. The used variable represents the rate of increase of the wave energy in one wavelength, including not only height and period but also suddenness of high waves.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.405-412
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• 2017

Because of the rapid development of computer technology in recent years, wave models can utilize parallel calculations for the high-resolution prediction of open sea and coastal areas with high accuracy. Parallel calculations also allow national agencies in the relevant sectors to produce marine forecasting data through massive parallel calculations. Meanwhile, the eastern coast of the Korean Peninsula has been increasingly damaged by swell-like high waves, and many researchers and scientists are continuing their efforts to anticipate and reduce the damage. In general, the short-term transformation of swell-like high waves can be reproduced relatively well in the third generation wave models, but the transformation of relatively long period waves needs to be simulated with higher accuracy in terms of the nonlinear wave interactions to gain a better understanding of the low-frequency wave generation and development mechanisms. In this study, we developed a calculation module to improve the calculation of the nonlinear energy transfer in the 3rd generation wave model and integrated it into the wave model to effectively consider the nonlinear wave interaction. First, the nonlinear energy transfer calculation module and third generation model were combined. Then, the combined model was used to reproduce the wave transformation due to the nonlinear interaction, and the performance of the developed operation module was verified.