• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.5 no.2
• /
• pp.35-40
• /
• 1981

This study aims at finding appropriate adhesive conditions with special regard the material of 'fusible padding cloth inter ling' was frequently used for leather. As for leather material, pig suede, sheep suede were selected and drum dyed, cow split, napa have also been used. Mixed spinning non-woven fabric (polyester $50\%$, nylon $50\%$) were used as for padding cloth. Experimental appearance has been observed under the following adhesive conditions: Temperature of press were devided four levers; $120^{\circ}C$, $130^{\circ}C$, $140^{\circ}C$, $150^{\circ}C$, respectively. Adhesive time has been limited 5, 10, 15 second each. And the pressure has been conditioned as $0.2kg/cm^2$ continuously. After all this experiment, it was discovered that the material which had long contact with low temperature conditions has similar adhesive power to material that has short contact with high temperature conditions. There is a great difference according to the leather's dying process, the finishing method of the cloth, and the part of leather surface. The best condition for suede are $140^{\circ}C$, $150^{\circ}C$, at 10 seconds. and for D/D, NAPA, $130^{\circ}C$, at 10 seconds. Although the conditions of $150^{\circ}C$, at 15 seconds was possible for split, the process time can be shortened according to the increase of temperature.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
• /
• 2010.03a
• /
• pp.197-198
• /
• 2010

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.13 no.6
• /
• pp.856-865
• /
• 2011

This paper intends to examine how Fringe, which is in an inseparable relationship with modern fashion, has been changed and what characteristics it is expressed to have in fashion on the basis of its formative property expressed in modern fashion. In order to empirically analyze Fringe, this paper analyzed a total of 346 Fringe of every type that were generally found in the worldis four biggest collections, from 2006S/S to 2011S/S. This paper found some methods Fringe is made, which are: using a snagged fabric or knit as it is; intentionally snagging or tearing a fabric to make the effect of being snagged; knotting the tail or the edge of clothes, and then, macram$\grave{E}$; and cutting leather or suede, which canit be snagged easily, and making Fringe strands. Fringe strands which are made in the above ways are made into a band and then, attached, or Fringe strands, a feathers, a comb, or beads are attached one by one. Or a tassel is independently or consecutively applied to clothes or ornaments, which are expressed in the form of fringes. Threads, strings, leather, suede, metals, plastics, raffia, horsehair, paper, beads, pearls, crystals, or felt were used for rich texture or unique visual effects. Colors of various brightness and chromas were used in consideration of materials. Through the effects of sameness, similarity, contrast, harmony and gradation with colors of clothes, emphasis or unified harmony was expressed. The expressive characteristics of Fringe, which were found in the modern fashion through those formative characteristics, were organic rhythmical beauty, handicraft decorative beauty, and folksy natural beauty.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.13 no.2
• /
• pp.78-86
• /
• 2009

When scouring and contraction finishing at $90^{\circ}C$ using Relaxer or Rotary Washer contraction and weight loss ratio in warp and weft directions were excellent. Also surface state of fabric after drying or sanding treatment was excellent without crease. Low melting polyester fabric showed a complete melting bond by heat setting(P/S) at above $160^{\circ}C$. The alkali hydrolysis reaction of polyester showed the breakpoint in the weight loss behavior test, polyester yarn showed a breakpoint ranging from 25% to 28%. This is due to the difference of the hydrolysis rate between regular polyester and soluble polyester. Initially the soluble polyester was eluted and micro-fibrillized 5 times faster than a regular polyester. At a later time, a regular polyester was reduced weight to impart a proper flexibility and drape property to the fabric. As a result of surface sanding finishing, the surface of interior fabric showed a surface state most stabilized when using Mesh No. 220 in mono 0.2d after elution finishing. When the rotation direction of sanding roller was pro-, pro-, pro-, and retro-direction, a directional effect of tuft was not shown, a writing effect as suede was exhibited and a surface state was even. Sublimation fastness was 3-4 class for polyester and 2-4 class for nylon. Light fastness 3-4 class after lapse of 100 hours and 2-4 class after lapse of 160 hours. Abrasion fastness was 3-4 class on wet and 4-5 class on dry Laundry fastness was 2-4 class. As such, the abrasion fastness is slightly reduced upon wetting and the use thereof for interior is excellent, whereas laundry fastness is slightly lowered.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
• /
• v.9 no.2
• /
• pp.133-140
• /
• 2006

In order to investigate the sensation of the fabric sound simulating the real wear-condition, the fabric sound simulator using reciprocating friction was developed. Fabric sounds from 5 specimen were generated by the fabric sound simulator and recorded using high performance microphone. Physical sound parameters of fabrics including level pressure of total sound (LPT), level range (${\Delta}L$), and frequency differences (${\Delta}f$) were calculated. For psychological evaluation, seven adjectives for sound (softness, loudness, sharpness, clearness, roughness, highness, and pleasantness) were used as the semantic differential scale. Fabric sounds by reciprocating friction of nylon taffeta and polyester leno had the highest value of LPT and evaluated as loud, sharp, rough, and unpleasant while polyester ultra suede and silk crepe de chine haying the lower LPT and ${\Delta}f$ were perceived as soft and quite. Comparing with fabric sound by one-way friction, fabric sound by reciprocation friction was perceived as more sharp, loud, and rough. LPT was also the most important factor affecting the sensation of the fabric sound by reciprocating friction.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.6 no.3
• /
• pp.52-59
• /
• 2002

Companies desire to increase total profits. Consumer's buying behavior depends on the nature of the product just like look, touch, and feel of fabric in apparel shopping on-line with Quick Response based mass-customization. The purpose of this study is to investigate the consumer's texture sensibility from textile image under on-line environment in order to give the direction for marketing strategy in apparel ebusiness. Total 8 kinds of textile swatches representing each of 8 texture-sensibility-axes were selected for this research on the basis of finding in previous studies. The analyses of 60 questionnaires were conducted by frequency, mean, and standard deviation using SPSS 10.0. The results of this research were as follows: Under on-line environment, consumers recognized Homespun as natural, strong, and warm texture sensibility, but not as glossy, and transparent. Oxford was recognized by consumers as refreshing, and plain texture. Consumers recognized Muslin as flat and refreshing, Melton not as transparent but as warm, strong, dense, and natural, Habutae as thin, transparent, refreshing, flat, glossy, and soft, Linen as sandy, Suede not as transparent but as strong, and warm, and Terry as warm, and dense.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.45 no.2
• /
• pp.91-103
• /
• 2007

The purpose of this study is to investigate the types and functions of brand labels on clothing. We surveyed the materials and manufacturing methods for brand labels by visiting the label stores and label manufacturers. 200 pieces of children's wear were surveyed. The label attributes that were studied were: the number of labels, the location of the labels, the attachment system for the labels, the color of the labels, the materials used to make the labels, manufacturing methods, and the size of the labels. From this investigation a brand label was classified into a main label and a point label. The main results were: 1. Materials such as fabrics, nonwovens, leather, suede, rubber, PVC, silicone, and metals are used for brand labels. The manufacturing methods for brand labels are weaving, printing, high frequency, heating, and molding. 2. More than 54% of clothes have more than two brand labels attached. This percentage exceeds the attaching of only one brand label in rate. An inside brand label is located at a certain place. This inside label uses only fabric material reflecting inherent brand color and design. The outside brand label is located at several places with consideration of the clothes design. This label uses various materials, colors, and characters matching with the clothes. As for the size, an inside label is mainly medium in size, whereas an outside label is small. 3. A brand label is classified into a main label (first label) and a point label (second label), which are defined as follows. A main label indicates the brand name and is located inside at a certain place using an inherent brand design and a fabric material. A point label is an additional label to express brand image and is located outside at various places for decoration using various characters and design and materials.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.12 no.6
• /
• pp.93-106
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study is to analyze design characteristics of Chanel bags by its type and shape, material, color, pattern, decorations in order to give information about foundation of the development of Korean fashion brand handbags and help suggest predict future handbag trends. The methods of this study are documentary research and demonstrative research. For the documentary research, mainly previous researches and fashion related data were used. For the demonstrative research, the total of 288 design photos of Chanel bag were selected from 2001 S/S season to 2008 F/W season fashion collections of firstview.com., style.com., and mode et mode. The results of this study are as follows; First, type and shape of bags are clutch(30%), flap(25%), shoulder(25%), others(10%), tote(5%), hobo(5%). Second, the material data shows that leather(46%), mixed(18%), fabric(17%), synthetics (10%), patent(3%), others(3%), and suede(2%). Third, the patterns are geometrical(27%), solid(25%), combination(24%), symbolic(11%), abstract(11%), nature(2%). Fourth, the colors are largely monochrome(73%) and multicolor(27%). In case of monochrome, achromatic color(50%) is more than chromatic color(23%). The chromatic color is consisted of YR(9%), Y(9%), R(5%), RP(4%), PB(2%), P(1%), GY(0.5%), BG(0.5%). The multicolor is consisted of similar coloration(12%), contrast coloration(10%), and accent coloration(5%). Fifth, the decoration data shows that metallic(53%), plain(23%), combination(22%), and handcrafted(1%).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.65 no.5
• /
• pp.113-125
• /
• 2015

The purpose of this paper is to study the $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$, a floral decoration, history of $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$, a floral decoration, with a focus on its aesthetics, its practical use and its traditional meaning. After the examination of its history, the paper, recreated the proceeds by taking into consideration both the contemporary men's fashion, as well as the $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$ designs of the past. The three factors of contemporary $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$ design, in brief, are its historical meaning, the visual aesthetics and the wearability. In this paper, the research and design steps are as followed below. First, the paper examined the history of men's fashion leading up to the twenty-first century in order to get a deeper understanding of the history of $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$. Second, the paper attempted to find the most suitable fabric materials and flowers for the $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$, in order to produce diverse $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$ that can be worn in any season and occasion. As for the fabrics that can be used to make the $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$, organza can be used for the S/S season, and wool, tweed and suede can be used for the F/W season. The major characteristics that differentiate the kinds of $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$ are the "Carnation" and the "Rose of Sharon". The 'Rose of Sharon' $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$ as the symbol of our nation possesses an intricate meaning and practical function, so that this $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$ is used as an alternative badge of the national assembly and other social-national institutions and their members. This idea expands into other social and individual features that the $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$ is a differentiated fashion item that provides other personal styles and expresses individuality.