• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.146-150
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• 1996

The waves are most important dynamical factors for the analyses of structural stability and topographical changes on coastal engineering field. However, wind-generated waves are very irregular in shape and transformed through refraction, diffraction and shoaling when they propagate into shallow water where bottom topography and water depth vary significantly. Recently, Vincent and Briggs (1989) reported hydraulic model experiments for the transformation of monochromatic and directionally-spread irregular waves passing over a submerged elliptical mound. They concluded that for the case of combined refraction-diffraction of waves by a shoal, the propagation characteristics of the irregular and equivalent regular wave conditions can be vastly different. On the irregular wave transformation have been made theoretical and numerical studies for several years. Although theoretical and laboratory studies on wave transformation have progressed considerably, field measurement and comparison of numerical results with related theories are still necessary for the prediction of the phenomena in reality. In this study, field measurement of both incident and transformed waves in Youngil Bay were made using various kinds of equipments, and numerical computations were made on the transformed frequency spectra of large waves propagating over the shoal using Chae and Jeong's (1992) elliptic model. It is shown that this model results agree very well with field data, and thus the applicability of the model is now validated.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.26 no.5B
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• pp.563-572
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• 2006

In designing the coastal structures, the accurate estimation of wave forces on them is very important. Recently, the empirical formulae such as Goda formula are widely used to estimate wave forces, as well as 2-D hydraulic and numerical model tests. But, sometimes, these estimation methods mentioned above seem to be unreasonable to predict 3-D structure of wave pressure on the coastal structures with 3-D plane arrangement in the real coastal area. Especially, in case of consideration of phase difference at harbor and seaward sides of the large-sized coastal structures like a composite breakwater, it is easily expected that the real wave pressures on each section of coastal structure have 3-D distribution. A new numerical model of 3-D Large Eddy Simulation, which is applicable to permeable structure, is developed to clarify the 3-D structure of wave pressures acting on coastal structure. The calculated wave forces on 3-D structure installed on the submerged breakwater show in good agreement with the measured values. In this study, the composite breakwater is adopted as a representative structure among the large-sized coastal structures and the 3-D structure of wave pressures on it is discussed in relation to the phase difference at harbor and seaward sides of it due to wave diffraction and transmitted wave through rubble mound.