• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권6호
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• pp.869-879
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• 2009

본 연구의 목적은 테크토닉 문화 및 패션의 특징을 파악하고, 한국과 프랑스에서 테크토닉 문화와 패션이 갖는 특수성을 밝히는 것이다. 특히 그 동안 주로 연구되었던 영 미권이 아닌 한국에서 하위문화가 어떻게 확산, 향유되는지에 주목하였다. 테크토닉은 2000년 프랑스 파리의 한 클럽에서 등장한 댄스 장르이자 음악 장르로, 인터넷을 통해 전 세계적으로 전파되었다. 테크토닉 패션은 슬림한 라인, 강렬한 색상, 하이탑 스니커즈를 특징으로 하는데, 이러한 패션 스타일은 동시대 패션의 흐름과 맞물리면서 테크토닉 댄스와 음악의 성격을 표현한다. 프랑스와 비교하여, 한국 테크토닉 패션 스타일은 남성의 경우 진한 메이크업과 모히칸 헤어를 잘 시도하지 않으며, 여성은 짧은 치마로 섹시함을 강조하는 경향이 있다. 테크토닉의 발생지인 프랑스에서는 테크토닉이 긍정적인 사회적 놀이문화로서 자리매김했으나, 한국의 테크토닉은 그 이미지만이 차용되어서 연예인의 패션 스타일이나 광고 수단으로 상품화되었다. 하위문화로서 테크토닉은 놀이성, 상품성, 디지털 통신매체의 적극적인 이용이라는 특수한 성격을 가진다. 테크토닉을 즐거운 댄스에 참여하는 것으로 여기는 프랑스에서는 놀이성이 두드러지고, 테크토닉을 시각적인 흥미요소로 여기는 한국에서는 상품성이 두드러진다. 이러한 성격의 차이가 두 나라의 테크토닉 패션에 차이를 가져왔다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권4호
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• pp.574-591
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• 2001

This study reviews the concept and characteristics of the deconstruction philosophy in order to analyze the major aspects of the fashion world called the deconstruction fashion based on the deconstruction philosophy, and analyzes the works of Jean Paul Gaultier in terms of Derrida's deconstruction theory. The scope of this research is from 1980 to present, and this study fashion on the many kinds of literature on philosophy, aesthetics and literary criticism, and the domestic and international fashion journals and magazines. The deconstructionism is the philosophical theory which denies the traditionally recognized logocentric metaphysical theory and refuses the closed world and pursues the open world, opposing the dichotomic theory which is the deep-rooted tradition of the Western philosophy. The results of analyses centering on the internal deconstruction trend expressed in the works of Jean Paul Gaultier are as follows. 1 The past style combined with the present appears in the form of the entirely new trace, not the past emotion and meaning in Gaultier's works transcending the time and space. 2 Gaultier presents the unconventional intermeaning of meanings, producing various possibilities according to the wearing method of the wearer by layering several clothes. 3. Gaultier breaks from masculinity and femininity in the intertextuality of gender, and decomposes the fixed idea of men's or ladies'wear through the design sharing bisexual text. 4. In the intertextuality of T.P.O., Gaultier presents the problem of how to wear by mixing different items through obscuring the division of the nature of time, space, and purpose. Especially Gaultier can be called the first designer who, worthy of the father of the deconstructionism, has introduced in the fashion making inner wear like outer wear. 5. In the intertextuality of coordination, Gaultier presents a new perspective of coordination through free combination and contrast, raising a question about the man-made harmony criterion and deconstructing the clothes. On the other hand, Gaultier expresses the intertextuality of the material through the heterogeneous combination of the material. 6. The decomposition trend expressed in the many works of Gaultier reflects an open mind presenting a new perspective through the distortion of the form, exaggeration, and break from the existing construction method. 7. The decentering trend in the works of Gaultier is found to deconstruct the Western-dominated elements against the background of subcultural elements, the elements borrowed from the minority race, md the Oriental culture. 8. The discontinuity clothes of Gaultier present the disordered principle of design without the uniform rules, and express the unrestrained freedom without captivation by the preconceived idea through the disruption of the dress and its ornaments just like Gaultier.