• 한국산학기술학회논문지
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.80-90
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• 2011

본 논문은 영조와 정조가 통치한 시기에 해당하는 시기인 조선후기 풍속화에 표현된 여성머리양식을 고찰하여 조선후기 성인여성머리양식의 특성을 분석한 논문으로서 연구의 목적은 조선후기 여성머리양식의 특성과 당시 여성들의 미의식을 규명하여 최근 유행하고 있는 사극드라마나 영화 등의 영상예술분야에서 활용될 수 있도록 하는데 있다. 조선시대 성인여성의 대표적인 머리는 얹은머리와 쪽머리로 그 중 얹은머리가 더욱 유행하였다. 신분에 관계없이 많은 여성들은 얹은머리의 규모를 크게하기 위해 가체를 사용하였으며 개인의 개성에 따라 머리양식을 다르게 하여 각기 다른 조형미를 연출했다. 조선시대는 신분에 따른 복색제도가 엄격하였으나 기녀들은 제약을 받지 않았으므로 복색에 자유로워 유행을 선도하였으며, 조선후기에는 실학의 영향으로 이미 신분이나 사상등의 제약으로부터 자유로워진 반가나 민서계급의 모든 여성들이 기녀들의 차림을 모방하여 유행과 동조하는 현상을 보였다. 조선후기 여성들은 자신의 개성을 표출하기 위해 머리양식을 유행의 도구로 사용하였으며 많은 여성들이 현대와 같이 유행을 추구하였다. 또한 당시 여성들도 얼굴과 가장 가까운 머리를 아름답게 꾸며 자신의 미를 강조할 정도로 미의식의 수준이 상당히 높았다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.67-76
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• 2002

This research examines the characteristic trends through analysis on cue in the contemporary fashion distinctly and systematically. It is carried out by both qualitative analysis and quantitative analysis. In the qualitative analysis, the four important street fashions of neo-mods/jazz, neo-hippie/grunge, sportivecasual and technos/cyber-punk are grouped. In the quantitative analysis, statistical data are sampled from Collection II of the 1990s S/S. It takes frequency, percentage, $\chi^2$-test and etc. by using the comprehensive tools for statistical treatment. There were significant differences between the S/S fashion. According to the cues, there are also significant differences between the fashion in the 1990s. In 'Neo-Mos/Jazz' style shows highly androgynous look, deep and strong tone, green/blue colors, natural fabric, stripe pattern, long hair style, and hided make-up. 'Neo-hippie/gnenge' style shows highly folklore look, vivid tone purple colors, seethrough/knit fabric, natural /traditional pattern, decorative hair special makeup. 'Sportive casuals' style shows highly sportive look, greish tone, white/grey colours, natural fabric, solid patten, bobbed hair, and natural make-up. 'Techno/cyber punk style shows highly comocorps look, pale tone black colors avangard fabric, solid patten, punk/dyed hair special make-up.

• 복식
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• 제57권3호
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• pp.124-135
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• 2007

Being called 'the period of diversity', the 21st century is taking on a new aspect which is different from the past where a certain phenomenon of a specific area was prescribed as one representative icon of a period. In particular, the globalization culture acted as the catalyst to accept such diversity and it appeared as a new culture code, 'fusion' throughout society and culture. Especially, unlike two-hour movies, the recent drama $\lceil$Gung$\rfloor$ showed various fusion style costume over a period of three months and created a sensation of fusion style costume. Therefore, this study is aimed at investigating fusion style costume by selecting the TV drama $\lceil$Gung$\rfloor$ which was on the air in 2006. Though various studies on fusion style costume, which is becoming a new culture code, have been conducted, this study is meaningful in that it's time to conduct a new study through a popular TV drama. Based on preceding studies on fusion style, the elements of fusion style were analyzed by capturing the most frequently exposed heroine's costume, and new design development introducing fusion elements was attempted for empirical studies. The study results are as follows. First, it was found that the fusion trend is a culture code which already spread to the public and is shown in the fashion in various ways. Second, the drama $\lceil$Gung$\rfloor$, is commented as a new dram which introduced the fusion style costume into Korea through a modern version of constitutional monarchy and is commented as a medium which created an interest in the fusion costume among the public as well. Third, new trend elements of the fusion style could be derived through empirical studies by design development.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.127-136
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• 2007

Modern society shares new culture derived from the fusion of various cultures unlike the past culture regulating one phenomenon of certain field as the representative icon of the era. Especially, the phenomenon of globalization acts as the catalytic agent to receive coexistence of variousness easily. Especially, in fashion industry, these flows and the view of naturalism are harmonized and new fashion trend called 'Ethnic' was embossed. As it reflects internal spirit of human being that wants to return to the memory due to expansion of material civilization, the interest in the designer pursuing it is increasing. This study tries to consider the Ethnic style displayed by Chinese American designer, Anna Sui, who pursues the eastern style with full wit and individuality. Anna Sui, who was praised by New York Times for 'the superb harmony of houte couture style and up-to-date style', created another fashion trend, romanticism in New York and she is the worldwide designer representing Ethnic. Like it, the consideration on her Ethnic style reanalyzing as eastern style provides guidance to check how designer's fashion philosophy appears in one category of America and China and new study material that enables us to understand the third world culture code as well as Anna Sui. This confirmation has the meaning as the basic material for the endless challenge to the new style that fashion will go on in the future. Anna Sui was confirmed to have been recognized as a designer who represented the ethnic collection in the United States, exerting the influence with her unique oriental background. Moreover, her design could identify the pivotal point of ethnic image by developing her unique style which is distinct from other designers in terms of silhouette, color, fabric, detail, and so on. This kind of study can provide the basic data required to understand the fashion world of designer in the future.

• 복식
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• 제55권3호
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• pp.59-68
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to examine the changing process of hairstyle and the fashion trend of hairstyle in the environment where it is possible to change one's hairstyle easily arid .display oneself in various ways and the interest in hairstyle is increasing. To examine the change of real university girls' hairstyle, I selected commencement pictures of Chungnam University as material. As a method of analysis, I compared and anaylized each time period's fashion trend and the change of real university girls' hairstyle after abstracting formative element of hairstyle on the basis of preceding studies on hairstyle and measuring frequency by element of each time period. Analyzing university girls' pictures showed that many of them had curls when various perms appeared and majority of them had straight style when straight perm and magic iron appeared. When products of hairstyling were on the market and globalization changed sense of beauty, it was highly popular to set up forelock with hairstyling products. In a pluralistic social environment, desire for color aspect other than formative aspect increased. As various hairdyes were developed, hairdyeing was generalized and university girls came to accept it as natural. Fashion trend of each time period and university girls' hairstyle showed generally similar trend. In mid 1980s, curl was popular, and, in late 1980s, straight style and setting up forelock with hairstyling products were on the increase. In early 1990s, the emergence of coating perm which combined perm and hairdyeing increased hairdyeing. In late 1990s, straight style was popular and layers expressed naturalness. In early 2000s, university girls showed off their long hair in various ways and hairdyeing drastically increased.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제6권4호
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• pp.213-228
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to defined the conception and characteristics of Post-Modernism and dealt with how they are expressed in costume. Major characteristics of Post-Modernism are Historicism, Pluralism, and Eclecticism and these are reflected in the costume. 1. Historicism of Post-Modernism is a trend recreate artistic symbolism which Modernism lacked in reference to historical factors of the past. It has been as a trend of restoration and an ornamental trend can be included in the category of historicism in that it restored historical ornaments. 2. Pluralism of Post-Modernism means an open-hearted attitude toward everything. In costume, it has been expressed as a trend of mixed fashion style such as ecology, street fashion and futurism, collapse and mix of genres, diversity of materials and emphasis on texture caused by assemblage, change of the use to escape from the conventional system and avant-garde. 3. Eclecticism of Post-Modernism is expressed as a blended fashion style based on the principal of de-dualism. It has several trends ; exotic trend by mixing both oriental and western culters, androgyny which is a mixed image of an and woman, and a trend to use many kinds of materials together influenced by collage which is an eclectic mode.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.51-60
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• 2011

Analysis of trend by various information is systematically approached by strategy differentiating in Interior Design. At the present, trend is approached by intuitive viewpoint without systematic strategy and analysis system about interior coordination activity. And, it is not still established specific systematic architecture of the interior coordination by logical and academical approach. This Study set the goal at overall understanding about the Trend that shifting fast and offering objective data. Therefore, I approached the semiology-oriented process as the most suitable academical system on analysis of interior coordination trend. Object target of analysis was investigated to three domestic and overseas exhibitions announced from 2007 to 2008. These analysis was based on the context and text from the life style and the major determinant theme of the age of each exhibition. Also, it was arranged color, material and texture by the related expression system with topics and theme keywords. And it'll be considered as utilizing the code of specific application in interior coordination which is from the investigating about exhibition. Therefore, this study will be expected to help in meaning transmission and methodology establishment by more beneficial objective system, when designer work the interior coordination practically through the establishment of systematic viewpoint about interior coordination.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제4권2호
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• pp.127-138
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• 2002

The recent fashion trend of knit wear is now changing to the various fibrous color combination which emphasizes the plain texture. It supports the human body curvature which is influenced by the slim style of woven wear. In this research work, the general characteristics and knit wear fashion trend are studied. The metallic fiber and fancy yarn are used widely as fiber materials for knit in nowadays. However, the light and functional materials are preferred. The general characteristics of knit which gives the feeling of light and warm are still prevailing using pure wool, kid mohair, and mixed wool with polyester. In order to provide the soft touch feeling, smoothness of fine fiber, and feeling of sponge, several kinds of finishing techniques such as bulky, felting, bonding, and quilting process are usually adopted. The knit wear fashion trend is mainly consisted of the basic design items, and it gives the feeling of luxurious and elegance. The more youthful feeling is adapted for the general style of knit wear of the certain target age. The woven wear trend such as season color, line and pattern are applied in knit wear trend in recent days.

• 복식
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• 제50권2호
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• pp.167-182
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to examine the art nouveau fashion represented in the end of the twentieth century. The characteristics of art nouveau are naturalism, medievalism , exoticism, and decadentism. The influences of art nouveau were seen in the fashion of the late nineteenth century : S-curve silhouette and organic curve motives printed on hems. Art nouveau has reappeared in modern fashion trends such as romanticism , decadence, ecology, ethno, and fusion. To sum up, art nouveau fashion at the end of the twentieth century is classified into four shapes. First, art nouveau appears in naturalism. Influenced by the arts and crafts movements and naturalistic trend, it has reappeared at the end of the twentieth century in themes like 'art & craft'. This expression technique is to objectively nature and to represented art nouveau textiles. Second, S-curve silhouette appeared at the end of nineteenth century's fashion with the art nouveau influenced rejection of the bustle style. At the end of the twentieth century, the design , emphasizing the hip, is represented in fashion collections as a phenomenon of romanticism . Especially the art nouveau silhouette of the end of the twentieth century does not represent S-curve silhouette. But , it emphasizes the hip only. Third, Art nouveau exoticism by symbolism is influenced by Chinese and Celtic art, the Middle Ages, and the exoticism that appeared in fashion at the end of the nineteenth century : harem style, kimono style, and turbans. Exoticism at the end of the twentieth century is expressed by optical flower prints and successive floral print arrangements as seen in the themes of ethno and fusion. Fourth, one of the characteristics of art nouveau, decadence is influenced by the pre-raphaelite brotherhood. This is expressed in the images of vampires, and symbolism expressing grotesque insect motives and decadent successive curves. At the end of the twentieth century decadence is represented in fashion ; grotesque insect motives, tatto looks of organic curve motives celtic hair style, see-through fashion, grotesque make-up . Besides hair style techniques, decadent expressions applying art nouveau paintings also appeared. Finally , art nouveau fashion represented as a fashion trend at the turning point to the new millennium is one of great significance as an organic, an environment-intimate and continuance-possible design in a future.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권5호
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• pp.731-738
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to analyze the trend and meanings of the decoration which has appeared on fashion magazines from 1995 through 2005. The method of this study is to analyze 1627 decorations represented in fashion magazine focused on blouse, jacket and one-piece. As a result of this study I drew the following conclusion. First, the decoration reflects a life-style that modern people persue comfort, casual wear. Second, the decoration redefines the feminine identity by fusing different factors of fashion style. Third, the decoration reflects the hybrid tendencies through reconstruction by merging different culture or things.