• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.458-475
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• 2017

Opera is the most comprehensive musical art. In recent years, contemporary opera worlds has seen a variety of attempts to reinterpret operas of the past in a modern light. This has resulted in a dramatic change in the production of musical style and stage art. The purpose of the study was to modernize and streamline opera costumes by extending the scope of existing stage costume design, through the reinterpretation and application of the decorative elements in the Middle Age of Rococo, such as ruffles, frills, shirring, embroidery, buttons, etc., in such a way as to effectively communicate the moods of an opera to a modern audience. The costumes of the Rococo period were reinterpreted in a modern way, with the following results. First, in this work, the male main character was played by a bass to express the image of an older, lazy, rich man. A key element in modernizing the stage costume was selection of the costume color in such a way as to visually represent the voice tones sung by the major characters in the opera. Second, the maid hat and aprons were decorated with frills by applying the curves of Rocaille decoration from the Rococo period symbolize the role of the maids. This represented the distinction between occupation according to class and status at that time, while also expressing the ideals of modern feminine beauty. This makes for more comfortably-worn costumes, and is economical for production expenses. In the future, the stage costume design for classical opera will need to be revised consideration of a modern viewpoint.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.1102-1118
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to investigate the underwear design shown in historical dramas set in Europe between the $16^{th}$ and the $18^{th}$ century, woman's bodies were highly restricted, in order to analyze the symbolism of the movie costume and provide basic data for the future education of the department of movie costume design. For a study method, literature relating to movie costumes and underwear as well as captured images from 29 historical dramas set in Europe between the $16^{th}$ and the $18^{th}$ century was reviewed. Among them, data from 17 movies where underwear and crinoline were observed was analyzed. Historical movies, set in the $18^{th}$ century Europe exposed underwear more frequently and decisively than movies set in the $16^{th}$ and $17^{th}$ centuries. For the figure wearing underwear, its expression effect was maximized by the implication function of costumes. Underwear can easily express the time and space background and symbolize the character's social and economic position, attitudes, and values. In addition, the exposure of underwear can reveal characters' internal expressions, such as mental status, taste, temper, intention, mood, time and space display. The result of observing the underwear shown in movies reveals that underwear plays a subjective role in expressing ideal femininity as a woman of a particular age, modesty, social position symbolism and eroticism that depended on the situation. It is expected that the study will provide an opportunity to reconsider the function of underwear, which is different from the meaning of costume history, and its role as a means of communication by considering the change of underwear by age.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.204-221
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• 2021

The morning ritual was a rite whereby a morning audience with the emperor was held for feudal lords sovereigns and subjects living in the precincts, monarchs or foreign envoys of the outskirts of the capital, and other ethnic group. Distinction between the main and subordinate rituals, changes in the ceremony according to the times, and the position or rank of those participating in the rite, were factors that directly affected the costumes worn for ritual. Accordingly, in this paper, the costumes worn by members of the Ming dynasty (emperor, prince imperial, prince) were examined in terms of the period and detailed ceremonies with a focus on the morning ritual and costume systems presented in the official historical records. Through this study, only Mian-fu (冕服) and Pi-bian-fu (皮弁服) were defined by the costume system ase costumes worn in the morning ritual. However, through comparative analysis with the morning ritual system, it was confirmed that Tongtian-guan-fu (通天冠服), Yishan-guan-fu (翼善冠服), and Bianfu (便服: slightly casual wear) were also worn. It is worth noting that the color of Gunlong-pao (袞龍袍) was differentiated according to status; the Emperor wore yellow, the Prince Imperial and lower levels wore red, which was the traditional perception of academia. However, following confirmation of the custom costume for the morning ritual, it was confirmed that the color of this differentiation appeared during the 3rd year of Emperor Yongle of Ming (1305). Previously five traditional colors (blue, red, yellow, white, and black) were used for the season.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.19
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• pp.209-240
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• 1992

The costume of any nation is an attribute of a culture. This study concerns chinese and Mongolian costume's 'collar' form according to the observation of some reports about import folk materials and the pictures of the genuine objects, the author has investigated and rearranged them focusing on 13th Century's. 1. Traditional OverCoat or National costume on the poing of won dynasty in china such as Jacket, Coat, Mantle for making classical matching color, lacing, pearl pieces, and all costume shall be properly decorated and disigned. The example, Chinese Women's Gown and Double Jacket, on top of alignment of plaid, focus shall be placed on chinese classical form and color-matching, such as flowers and bireds, butterflies, made wishing ornaments, which shall be either hand painted or embroidered on collars, fronts, sleeves openings, and lower portion of gown. 2. Mongolian Costume, the stone status of a person, are seen at the territory of the Republic of Mongolia was a powerful country of Asia. So during the Mongolian Empire a lot of Missions from many countries came to kharakorom for establishing official relations between Mongolia and a country represented by mission. In particularly, the costume of mongols on the point of Chinggis khan Empire which the upper clothes in cluded ; a several kinds of the Caftan as compared with in Korea as to material (Silk caftan, Cotton Caftan, Fur Caftan) with closing to the right due to overlapping and Stand-up-Shawl Collars will pancho style & Round or V Neckline. 3. As compared with in Korea it is said that this a sort of Simui was brought in prior to the middle of Koryeo dynasty. Korean Simui system was complied with chinese system through confucian domestic behaviour. This was respected for court dress of confucian scholars, as it was, Chumri can ordinary dress of schloars) and Hakchangui ( a uniform of confucian student). Generally its form or shape of the outer lapels of Korean jacket were used together Squar-Tray-Collar. In late Yi-dynasty the inside collar length was longer than the outside collar length and the width of the collar was gradually narrow. And so the Traditional costume's outer collar of Jacket and OverCoat became small while the width and length of breast-tie became large. The same thing as the form of the collar on these days had been appeared by the design method or adjust one's dress. Therefore the form of collar in the china and Mongolian Traditional OverCoat & National Costume is fix arranged according to Stand up Collar, Without Collar, Clothing to the Right, Central opening, Horizontal Row of Button with Round or V Neckline and so on.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.131-138
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• 2010

The purposes of this study are for current manufacturing status of the formal knit slacks for the middle aged women. As for the methodology, five manufacturers specializing in formal knitwear brands were subjected to the study, to examine the current manufacturing status of the knit slacks for the middle aged women, by conducting interviews and questionnaire with patterner and designer. The questionnaire items are 20 ones including general questions on manufacturing of the knit slacks, questions on materials used in manufacturing, and on sewing. The results are as followings : First, as for the manufacturing structure of the knit slacks manufacturer, all manufacturers directly manufactured knit slacks in their own factory, and the manufacturing was comprised of 10% in woven slacks and 90% in knit slacks. Second, as for the type of yarn mostly used in fabric knitting for the knit slacks, wool was used mostly for F/W, and acrylic or Saint yarn for S/S. As for the types of knit, Milano rib stitch and Half Milano rib stitch were used for wool and acrylic knitting, and plain stitch was used for Saint yarn. As for the gauge, 12G and 14G were used, whereas 7G, 12G was used for Saint yarn. Repair requests of the knit slacks were mostly on the length of the pants, such as shortening hip circumference and crotch length, or widening waist and hip area. The study shows that the size of knit slacks did not fit the body type of customers.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.419-437
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• 2024

This study analyzed differences in the purchase satisfaction and repurchase intention of customers who buy clothing products from online platforms. The participants were teenage individuals to those in their 50s residing in Busan, Ulsan, and Gyeongsangnam-do. The data were examined via factor analysis, a t-test, Analysis of variance(ANOVA), Duncan's multiple range test, two-way ANOVA, and linear regression analysis. The factors for satisfaction with clothing products from online platforms were wearing comfort and quality, design, and price and purchase convenience. The findings revealed that purchase satisfaction based on these factors significantly varied among the participants depending on marital status, age, and occupation. Satisfaction with wearing comfort, quality, and design differed by gender. Satisfaction with wearing comfort, quality, and price and purchase convenience varied by type of purchase and type of online platforms. The interaction effects among the variables that affected purchase satisfaction were as follows. The interaction effects among the variables for wearing comfort and quality showed significant interactions between gender and type of purchase and between occupation and type of online platforms. Those for design showed significant interactions between marital status and age, between age and occupation, and so on. The interaction effects for price and purchase convenience showed significant interactions between marital status and gender and between age and occupation. The results on repurchase intention showed significant differences in such intention by marital status, age, and occupation. Repurchase intention was influenced by wearing comfort and quality, price and purchase convenience, design, and age.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.199-211
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• 2013

Glasses industry has great growth potential from the future-oriented perspective in Korea. In consideration of the fact that the ratio of aging population increases in this aging society, people have more and more interest in health. Also, their recognition on the cycle to change glasses is changing, and the utility of them as fashion items is increasing day by day, it is expected that the demand for glasses will be even more extended afterwards. Of course, presently it suffers from the gap between cheaper items and expensive ones provided by overseas prominent brands due to the bi-polarization of the market. However, they are pursuing the 2nd growth as export-leading items in the past through international glass exhibitions based on knowhow accumulated for a long time. Therefore, this study aims to examine the current status of glasses design industry in Korea reflecting the actual situations we have now and also understand the problems and limitations internalized in our glass design industry through the research process. As a result, the study has drawn the following conclusions. This paper intends to point out first, the phenomenon of bi-polarization of the glass market in Korea. Second, unequal distribution by region centering around Daegu. Third, the limitations of brand identity. Fourth, the limitations of information, planning, and marketing power. Fifth, passive conduction of international events and their insufficient effects. This study concludes that all these problems can be solved through 'planning and design, and marketing power'.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.293-304
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to analyze the relationship between materialism and conspicuous consumption, and information sources. Data were administered to 357 women living in Sunchon from June to July 1999. For analysis of the data, factor analysis, t-test, one-way ANOVA, duncan's multiple range test, and multiple regression analysis were employed. The results of this study were summarized as follows. 1) Materialism was shown to have the significant differences according to age, marriage, education, occupation, social stratification groups. The higher the education, occupational status, social stratification groups and the lower the age is, or unmarried, the higher is materialism. The use of information sources were shown to have the significant differences according to age, marriage, education, occupation, income, social stratification groups. The higher the education, income, social stratification groups. The higher the education, income, occupational status, social stratification groups and the lower the age is, or unmarried, the higher is use of information. 2) Materialism was shown to have the significant differences according to the groups of conspicuous consumption. The higher conspicuous consumption is, the higher is materialism. The use of information were shown to have the significant differences according to groups of conspicuous consumption. The higher conspicuous consumption is, the higher is use of information. 3) The use of information were shown to have the significant differences according to materialism. The higher materialism is, the higher is use of information. 4) According to the results of the regression analysis examining the relative influences of variables affecting information, the relative importance of the variables are in order of ; happiness-pursuable materialism, conspicuous consumption and their explanatory power totalled 18.6%.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.347-370
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• 1995

The elderly population of Korea has been significantly increasing due to advances in public health, medical care, and quality of life. Social, economical influence of the elderly population has been increasing, too. Research regarding elderly people is important because many elderly people take care of their appearance and clothing, and clothing plays an important role in the elderly women's everyday life. This study investigated the life satisfaction, appearance satisfaction, and clothing behavior of women aged 55 years and older who were residents of Seoul. The results of this study are as followings: 1. The importance of various factors on clothing behavior is different. They are management, clothing importance, fashion indifference, information search and purchase planning, clothing dependence, status symbol, and conformity in order of the importance. 2. Age has a positive relationship with each of fashion indifference and clothing dependence, but a negative relationship with information search and purchase planning. 3. Age has a positive relationship with each of life satisfaction and allowance. 4. Appearance satisfaction is positively related with age, but is significantly related with neither allowance nor education. 5. There are positive relationships between life satisfaction and all clothing behavior factors except status symbol. 6. Appearance satisfaction are siginicantly correlated with management, conformity, clothing dependence, and clothing importance. And life satisfaction has more significant relationship with clothing behavior than appearance satisfaction does.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.89-100
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• 2018

This study investigated students' perception of a starting up business in the fashion design related departments of two year colleges to present the basic data for designing a start up business education and examined the opening status of the start up business subjects. Only 4.4% of respondents answered that they had an experience in a start up. And 76.2% of respondents answered that they would like to start up a business after graduation. The initial start up types were "online shopping mall" and "blog market" in that order. Nearly 86.7% of respondents answered that they needed "start up" education in college. To the question of whether they would participate if there is a start up extracurricular program, and the subject they would choose, 40.9% answered "I want to get a start up related certification", showing the highest rate of interest in the course. The status of introducing start up business subjects in the regular courses in fashion design related departments in 25 two year colleges related that there were 11 start up related courses begun in the last semester, that is, the 2nd semester of the 2nd year. Since the proportion of clothing in online shopping malls is high, start up education based on the demands of students in fashion design majors can be used as another employment exit strategy.