• 복식
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• 제59권5호
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• pp.83-100
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• 2009

In the 'Society of the Spectacle', Guy Debord argued that modern life was dominated by the commodity form and the false desires it engendered. He predicted in 1967 that culture would become the driving force in the development of the economy by the end of the century, He was sure when culture becomes nothing more than a commodity, it must also become the star commodity of the spectacular society. Fashion, the starriest of star commodities with its seductive fantasy approaches to the viewers occluding the commercial reality. From this point, the spectacular property of the modern fashion can be found. This study starts on the notion that the modern fashion is on the center of capitalist consumer culture and is constructed by spectacle. On this premise, the purpose of this study is analysing the attribute of 'spectacle' and 'keeping distance ￡Tom spectacle' in modern fashion expressed in fashion show, fashion media and fashion store. The fashion houses in the 1990s that recognised the commercial value of shock and spectacle were eager to employ young spectacularly visible named designers. They generated the publicity necessary for sales of perfume, cosmetics, bags and diffusion range of clothes through the visible fashion show and fashion media. In the fashion show and fashion media, fashion goods as the commodity both flaunts and disguises its commercial nature in spectacle. The spectacle on the fashion store is the process turning the commodity into image to arouse viewer's higher interest. In the fashion store, the appearance of the commodity such as space, display, package is considered more importantly than its 'utility value'. Meanwhile, the study also covered the innovative trial to evade the ubiquitous 'spectacle' in fashion area.

• 복식
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• 제57권4호
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• pp.173-187
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to analyze the fetishist characteristics and the aesthetic values of glamour style based on the premise that fetishism is the theoretical root of glamour style expressed in fashion throughout history. The following results are from analysing fetishist characteristics of glamour style. First, luxury was analysed from an angle of commodity fetishism. Every culture develops images and stories that portray a world in which its ideals are realized: a paradise, a utopia, a golden age, etc. Consumer goods often serve as 'bridges to these ideals'. People thus can fantasize about owning the perfect life. Crucially, however, they must never get everything they picture. That is why luxuries often take on displaced meaning. Glamour gives the displaced meaning visual form, making it beautiful and real. Second, the attention on the glamour of luxury goods as a bridge to ideals is connected to the glamour icon who is simultaneously a consumer of these luxury goods and a producer of cultural goods. Glamour icons including the courtesan of the late 19th century, the actress of the 1930s' Hollywood golden age and today's celebrities appear to efface the traces of production and create fetishist images in culture. Through this artificial principle, the commodity-cum-glamour icon comes to life as a splendid image of spectacle. Third, masquerade and seduction were analysed from an angle of sexual fetishism. A magnificent image of masquerade as sexual fetishism is often equated with femininity, especially in Hollywood movies, because the artificial seduction of the feminine -namely glamour- can be effected by the absence or silence of being. That is to say, the aesthetic revelation of femininity coincides with the fleshing out of artificial signs. Masquerade and the seduction of the feminine are connected with glamour's artificial sensuality from this point. Fourth, since 1980's when homosexuality as sexual deviation resurfaced as a hot topic, sexual ambiguity and bisexual image have gained attention as perverse sexuality. Next came queer theory, which reduced gender itself to a matter of surface rather than depth. According to queer theory, gender itself can be revealed as a kind of drag act. Drag's imitative performance may reveal that womanliness is just about 'dragging up'. Queerness as a decadent play makes a connection with the wicked origins of glamour. From these characteristics, four aesthetic values were deduced: ostentatious luxury and mysterious idolatry by commodity fetishism, artificial sensuality and playful queerness by sexual fetishism.

• 미술이론과 현장
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• 제8호
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• pp.123-144
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• 2009

The history of art during the first half of the last decade was founded the discussion with highly impressive and confident. The art might establish its unique area based on self recognition at that era. The self-confidence of modern art may be possible on enlightenment, which is the firm relationship for knowledge and reality. However the faith of modernism which shows rational tendency, objective, and the existence of universal knowledge has been drastically doubted and criticized thereafter. A internal ideological system which had leaded the modern art was exhausted. Postmodernism revolved to the dramatic openness leaning against the deoedipalizational confession. According to the dissipation of the vitality of modern art postmodern art has been evolved and then various phenomena which follow the trends has been emerged. The avant-garde and resisteive attribute of modern art was diluted fast due to the influx of popular culture. As time goes it can be attracted by spectacle taste than metaphysical peculiarity. It has to inevitably justified the drift of light and quick themes, contents, and images. Such as these phenomena realistically shows fact that postmodern art had been failed to open a new chapter of consilience which intermediates beauty and usual communication to overcome the solipsism of modernism. A trial to pursuit the opened esthetics conceived more 'heroic' 'Star-Subject' than before by dismantling the modern 'Hero-Subject'. Postmodernism has been recorded as a regression of art, which is the technology of profound spirit that mitigates antagonism and confrontation and mediates mutual encountering of human being. Prevailing of postmodern freedom had been accompanied by popularity, osetentation consumption, marketing, gambling level exitement, mixtures of desires with price fluctuations. We witness 'self-confinement' and 'lasting absence of exit' phenomena in postmodernism ideology and practice. We have to deal postmodernism as an 'ideology which closes the discussion for the future' in the context of 'absence of way' at this point. We are going to investigate how postmodern ideology and practice takes part in the prospection beyond thereafter through discussion. We also pay attention to the 'absence of prospection' as a internal problem in itself nevertheless mention the three merge points such as tradition or memory, earthy thought, the self who confrontation others as the clue of prospecting thought which is allowing coming over postmodern absence.