• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.37
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• pp.33-46
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• 1998

The purposes of present study were (1) to examine the actual condition of wearing and purchasing Hanbok, (2) to investigate the effect of demographic variables on the wearing and purchasing Hanbok and (3) to identify the dissatisfaction with Hanbok. Data were collected from 702 females, age 20 or older, residing in Seoul, Taejon, Pusan and were analysed. Results of this study were as follows : (1) Korean urban women possess from one to three Traditional Dress and wear Hanbok in one to three during one year for special days. (2) The demographic variables that affect on wearing and purchasing Traditional Hanbok were age, income, family make-up and growing region. (3) One among the four Korean urban women possesses a Deformed Hanbok. And Korean women wears Deformed Hanbok for both daily life and special days. (4) The store that most women purchase Hanbok was order-made store near the house. The income affected on the store that purchaser selects significantly. (5) Three factors consisting of dissatis-faction with Hanbok were dissatisfaction with 'wearing', 'purchasing' and 'diversity of Hanbok design'. (6)Significant levels of correlations existed between the degrees of wearing Hanbok and the dissatisfaction.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.33-50
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• 2014

Investigations on the symbolic role, spiritual health benefits and efficacy of the clothing items of the Ga wolomo (chief priest) have received little attention. Highlighting the relevance of these clothes, this paper focuses on the chief priest's dress code for his appointment, confinement, ordination, ceremonial and daily life activities. Data were collected through content analysis, participant observation and interviews with people from selected Ga communities, such as La, Teshie and Ga Mashie. The findings revealed that the selection of the chief priest is confirmed with a special clothing item. His traditional clothes and adornment also have meanings, importance and symbolic interpretations; explained in their uses, colour and style. As the spiritual head, the role of the chief priest's costume is very distinguished and symbolic in executing his duties; protecting, strengthening faith, confidence and assurance during spiritual healing, and when solving pertinent problems in the community. The paper concludes by recommending further research and documentation on other aspects of the Ga clothing culture, such as hand items and hair styles from the pre-colonial period to the present.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.45-54
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• 2009

The reform of dress regulation in Kapshin(甲申衣制改革; 1884) was the first dress renovation in 8 years after Chosun's port opening in 1876, and the key contents of that reform was the simplification of the formal dress and private dress. The reform in the culture of the traditional costume should require some kind of special experience because that culture had been regarded as the precious symbol of the Confucianism. The purpose of this study is to investigate the background of "the reform" and who proposed "that reform", by contemplating the costume and the thought of costume of the ambassador extraordinary(修信使) and the Inspectors detached to Japan(朝士視察團) who experienced new costume system of Japan sent by Chosun Dynasty. For this study, historical documents such as 'Sillok(實錄)', a sort of report("修信使記錄", "聞見事件") were reviewed and the evidential photos in Japan were analyzed. It can be summarized as follows. First, Kim Kisu(金綺秀, Susinsa) in 1876 and Kim Hongjip(金弘集, Susinsa) in 1880 wore the traditional costume of Chosun in Japan, and described the westernized Japanese costume in view of traditional costume culture. Second, the inspectors detached to Japan in 1881 showed the same attitude to the Japanese costume as the previous Susinsas had done. Third, Park Younghyo(朴泳孝), who was an ambassador extraordinary and plenipotentiary(特命全權大使) in 1882, experienced western style in Japan and played an positive diplomatic activities with western nations. It could be guessed that those changes in the attitudes of the diplomats might have the relationship with the change of Chosun, which began a treaty of amity between western nations after 1882. Afterwards, Chosun seems to have decided to reform the system of traditional costume into the simplified one in 1884, proposed by the diplomats who experienced foreign culture abroad including Park Younghyo(朴泳孝) and the mutual agreement in Chosun Government.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.38
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• pp.17-29
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• 1998

The purpose of this paper is to explore a new methodology for the historiography of Korean cos-tumes. In particular, I focus on the possibility for systematic, historical methods appropriate for the history of Korean costumes. First, I characterize the general historiography of costumes as involving two aspects-one as the social science and the other as historical science(Geschichteswissenschaft). My contention is that any historical study of costume should be established on the intersection of social and historical studies, and their entangling relations with many a neighboring field of sciences. It requires in other words, an interdisciplinary approach that combines various methodologies of social sciences as well as those of history. Second, I present an overall review of the historical methodology with a special emphasis on the“Quellenkunde”of orthodox historiography. Building on the review, third, I pay attention to recent innovations in historical methodologies, such as“New History”that draws on history, sociology and social history, and their applicability to the history of Korean costmes. In this regards. I adress among others, the following theoretical perspectives : 1) comparioson and comparative history, 2) the formatived and paternal approaches toward the history of costume, 3) particulartiy and universality of Korean costume. I conclued that the history of Korean costumes should broaden its theoretical horizon in order to accomodate a wider range of research agenda, including costumes of neighboring cultures, while remaining sensitive to new theories and methods of the neighboring social historical sciences. For this purpose, it is emphasized that an international collaboration among researchers of the region, as well as that across the different disciplinnary boundaries, is indispensable for successful studies that can embrace diverse fields and areas.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.3
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• pp.95-107
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• 1980

The hair and headdress, positioned on the top of the body, assume a special role of accomplishing the silhouette of the clothing. This thesis reviewed the change of the hair and headdresses of the ancient Western world and studied the relationship between the silhouettes of the dresses and the shapes of the hairstyles. It was concluded that the hairstyles of each region had been developed in accordance, with their dress silhouettes, either repeating the silhouettes in a smaller scale, or reflecting their aesthetic attitudes toward clothing in the hairstyles. Religious symbolism was displayed strongly. In the headdresses of the cultures where the religious influence was great.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2003.10a
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• pp.31-31
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• 2003

To study the clothing names has been one of the research subjects in the history of clothing since the name could be the basic tool to understand the clothing. In the past, the name of clothing were used in Chinese character which is hieroglyphic. Each character of Chinese has special meaning. They had been changed into Korean after Korean characters were invented. During the period when they were changed into Korean, some of them retained the original meaning while others widened the original meaning. Some of them even translated into totally different meaning.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.25
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• pp.63-69
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• 1995

The purpose of this study was to investigate to the costumes in a portrait of the Buddhist Monk of JUN-NAM's local Temple. The Kasa was used to base of the rule be-cause this was not our's own costumes. There-fore size, form, wearing-assistance ornament of Kasa were to similiar to the rule's Kasa. But in case of color were used to pink, yellow, chest-nut except the red color. A Buddhist monk's robe were putted on adapt to climate in our nation. Without special condition, a Buddhist monk's robe were used to varied color, that is grey, green, pink, blue,(light, navy) blue, chestnut etc.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.42-52
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• 2002

The purpose of this research is to survey minpo(the nations pojagi), especially supo(the embroidered pojagi), of the Yi Chosun of Korea during the nineteenth century. This study explores the history and background of minpo, its characteristics, including forms, designs, materials, and how they related to women's daily life during the Yi Chosun in social and cultural aspects. There were minpos for use in everyday life as well as for special occasions such as weddings, funerals and religions rites, including Buddhist and other services. The research undertaken here is done by classifying minpos according to composition, design, pattern and motif.

• The Journal of Natural Sciences
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.123-131
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• 1998

This research was investigated the improved changes of Korean traditional costume after introducing the western costumes in this society. For this study microfilms of Chosun llbo, the popular newspaper since 1920s, and costume magazines for 1950s and 1960s were examined. The periods of the improved changing of Korean traditional costume were divided by the characteristics of qualitative and quantitative changes. Those were two, such as passive period and active period of change. At passive period, the change was not far from the original from of traditional costume and it was limited to the waist of skirt, length and width. But at active period, there was distinctive change from the previous period. Active period is divided by 2 sub-period again. In 1950s, the concept of darts of western costume was accepted to Korean costume and there was the western clothing for everyday costume, the characteristics of Korean costume were added to the base of the western clothing. It was named 'Arirang dress'. Original Korean costume had worn for special occasions since late 1950s.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.38
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• pp.83-100
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to figure out how stage costume of Peking Opera communicates what the character wants to inform to spectator. The stage costume means the clothing, shoes, headdress, accessory that the cast is worn for communicating personality of character. Stage costume not only reveals the character of new spirit who the director and the work is like to create, but also makes the style of play harmonizing with the atmosphere of the work. So, the stage costume in the play is a sort of symbol system that forms the depth of play. The stage costume of Peking Opera was formed on the basis of the Chinese traditional stage costume in the Qing period, however the style of stage costume was beautified the costume of Ming period and here contained the factors of successive costumes. But the stage costume of Peking Opera don't have the same rank system with real history costume and don't have demarcation according to period and history. Only it is that transformed and created the real history costume with Chinese fine view and made how they wear Chinese fine view and made how they wear the costume according to position, age, personality of character in the play. In the stage costume of Peking Opera, the color is cultural language that director can communicate to spectators and can inform spectator of sex, age, personality, position of the character. The color of the stage costume of Peking Opera reflects the principles of Yin and Yang and the five elements of the Chinese cosmogony. The pattern of decoration also makes the personality and characteristic of the character. The dragon pattern symbols the authority and majesty, so only the character of high position can use it. The pattern of tiger and leopard symbols bravery, so the military officer can use it. Civil officer decorates with the pattern of Japanese apricot, orchid, chrysanthmum, bamboo that symbols integrity and honor. The stage costume of Peking Opera communicates the identity of character with the special form of costume. Kanjien is a costume of the young priestess, Houyi is the Sunwukong'costume. Chayi is a costume of boatman. Lingzi, Sweixiu, Kaoqi is the props for the foramtive effect of stage costume, also they play an important part in expressing the emotion situation. In the result of study, we could know that the form, color, pattern of the stage costume and props of Peking Opera play important parts in communicating informations that let spectator can understand the play. So, the stage costume of Peking Opera is an‘picturizing costume’that the form, color, pattern of the stage costume is a sort of symbol system. It makes spectator feels actually the viewing Peking Opera.