• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.59 no.3
• /
• pp.42-54
• /
• 2009

The purpose of the study was to grasp problems through a basic survey of actual conditions of the Korean traditional costume industry and to grope a plan to settle the problems. The results were as follows. Operating Status: Rates of the companies' establishment were reduced in 2000s and their sales were also reduced. Status of Goods Development: Korean traditional costume manufacturers and Korean traditional costume textile fabric companies had the highest rate in non-trademark production. Korean traditional costume textile fabric companies and Korean traditional costume rental companies had high rate in self-design. However, Korean traditional costume manufacturers used textile companies' catalogue with the highest rate. Status of Demand and Supply in Human Resources: In human resources needing most, Korean traditional costume manufacturers were tailors, Korean traditional costume textile fBbric companies were salespersons and Korean traditional costume rental companies were designers. Status of Management and Marketing: Causes of difficulties in management were the market slump and the spreading of products made in China. They had a direct publicity through people around mainly. Therefore, it was urgently necessary to introduce special marketing methods. In an investment plan within three years in the future, about 70% did not have an investment plan. Opinions for Promotion of Korean traditional costume: In the government's support policy they wanted, construction of social atmosphere for Korean traditional costume-wearing and Korean traditional costume related educational support had the highest rate. Most of the companies answered that specialized Korean traditional costume agencies were necessary.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
• /
• v.6 no.1
• /
• pp.38-51
• /
• 2003

Peking Opera, one of a representative Chinese dramas, is a synthesis of drama and stage art. Peking Opera's stage costume was set up in Qing dynasty though its style was embellished with mainly Ming dynasty's clothing style. The special patterns in the clothing were very important because they classified social rankings. There are two kinds of roles in Peking Opera. Sheng stands for male roles and Dan stands for female roles though Dan had traditionally been acted by male actors with female attire until the ruling of the People's Republic of China. There are five different kinds Peking Opera's stage costume. First, Mang is a formal dress for kings and generals. It is a very delicate long Po with special patterns. It has several names depending on the color and shape of a dragon. Second, Pee is a casual attire for kings, government officials, and their families. It is also a long Po with front opening and symmetrical neckline. Third, Kao is an armor of warrior which is made not for protection in a real war but for ornament of a formal dress. Kao reflects the wearer's authority when the wearer stays still, but it is a comfortable clothing for big dancing moves once the wearer starts dancing. The wearer puts a banner into the shoulder to alarm tension of a war. Fourth, Cheup is an outfit that one wears the left part adjust to the top. There are different lengths of Cheup and it has a straight neckline. There are twenty-one different kinds of Cheup according to its shape and color. Last, Yi is name for the rest of Peking Opera's stage costume other than Mang, Pee, Kao, and Cheup.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.12 no.34
• /
• pp.743-769
• /
• 1974

Au debut I'habit Iiturgique ne differait de I'habit de fete du simple citoyen que par sa richesse. C'est seulement quand, dans la vie courante, on adopta la robe courte que le vetememt liturgique commenca a se distinguer, meme par la forme, du costume civil. Les ornements liturgiques, en effet, ne sont qu'une forme stylisee de l'habit de fete de la fin de l'Empire Romain (du IIIeme au Veme siecle). Pour une ceremonie religieuse on se presente bien habille. Le meme sentiment de respect des choses sacrees a amene deja, vers la fin de l'antiquite chretienne, a donner au pretre un vetememt liturgique special. Pour celebrer la messe, le pretre revet par-dessus sa soutane un costume special, compose de l'amict, de l'aube, du cordon, du manipule, de l'etole et de la chasuble. Aux messes solennelles, les eveques ajoutent a ces ornements des bas et sandales, des gants, la tunique et la dalmatique avee la mitre ; en certain cas, les archeveques y joingnent le pallium. Aux messes solennelles, le diacre porte sur ; l'aube le manipule et la tunique. De ces pieces du costume liturgique, on dira brievement, apres leur emploi et leur forme actel, l'origine et l'histoire, mais seulement apres avoir marque les lignes generales parition et des transformations du costume liturgique dans son ensemble. L'evolution du costume liturgique a partir du XIIIeme siecle peut se resumer en quelques mots en raison souvent de la lourdeur des riches etoffes (velours et brocarts) et de l'importance donne a la decoration, toujours par rechereche d'une plus grande commodite on a abandonne lentement d'abord, puis rapidement adapte a partir du XVI eme siecle, les formes amples pour des formes courtes et etriquees. Il faut faire quelques exceptions qui marquent l'influence des gouts decoratifs de gouts epoque : La periode de 1700 a 1850 marque la complete decadence du costum liturgique. On a depuis essaye de lui rendre sa beaute et aussi sa signification symbolique, par un retour aux etoffes et a la decoration de la deuxieme partie du moyen age. Souhations que, sous la direction des liturgistes, en respectant l'essentiel de la liturgie aujourd'hui, avec le concours d'artistes epris du sens liturgique et des connaisseurs des tradtions et de toutes les ressources actuelles on trouve des costumes liturgiques adaptes a notre temps dans un style plus simple et correspondant au besoins actuels.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
• /
• v.6 no.1
• /
• pp.71-83
• /
• 2006

This study is about how Art Nouveau and Art Deco clothing are represented in the costume design of film created after those periods and examines the recreation process of visual media. The costume design of The Wings of the Dove tried to reflect the mixture of fashion trends that could be seen during the times. Milly???s clothes seem to focus on recreating the special features of the 1900???s fashion trends more visually while Kate???s clothes are represented in a strong and simple way to emphasize her personality. The costumes in The Great Gatsby, tried to reinvent the 1920???s clothes in a romantic way. Daisy???s and Gatsby???s costumes were based on the aesthetics of the 1920???s clothing. but emphasized the symbolic nature of the characters to give a greater dramatic effect. By analyzing and comparing, it can be seen that, while costume design usually begin with painstaking research into the historical period in which the film is set it is often altered to highlight aspects of the story. such as the theme and the characters, in an effort to create a stronger dramatic effect. Costume design remains one of the most effective means for a director to visually express the personality and desires of a film???s characters. The ideal aim of costume design is to create something new but at the same time, remain true to the period by being grounded in accurate research.

• Human Ecology Research
• /
• v.55 no.5
• /
• pp.481-490
• /
• 2017

This study considered the performing arts culture with a focus on Palgwanhoe Ceremony and various stunt-songs and dance (Baekhee-Gamoo) from the Goryeo period as well as examined the characteristics of performing arts' costume for Baekhee-Gamoo shown in Palgwanhoe Ceremony. The Baekhee-Gamoo shown in the Palgwanhoe Ceremony included acrobatics, traditions from comic dramas, puppet shows, mask plays, and four musical troupe flowers of youth in the Silla Dynasty, who excelled in beauty, bravery and the military arts (Sasun-Akboo). These were performed on a wagon ship with dragon, phoenix, and elephant animal masks (Yong-Bong-Sang-Mageosun). The characteristics of performing arts' costume for each performing arts are as follows. First, the general costume of the time was used for performing arts' costume. There were no special costumes for performing arts and it was just transformed or added for the efficiency of acrobatics. Second, the reality was improved by focusing on the historical research on costume suitable for characters and background of events in the performing arts to clearly deliver the purpose of the ceremony and quickly arouse audience's curiosity towards the performing arts' costume for the tradition of comic dramas and puppet shos in the Palgwanhoe Ceremony. Third, magical powers and symbolism were expressed through masks and performing arts' costumes. Palgwanhoe Ceremony aimed for magical powers that could protect weak human beings from threats and repel everything unfair while also symbolically showing the deified being through the performing arts' costume.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.18 no.3
• /
• pp.550-558
• /
• 2010

Russian Constructivism, which took the lead in the Russian trend of art until the late 1920's, was influenced by European Cubism and Futurism. Breaking away from the previous realistic tendency, Russian Constructivism, to meet the ideology of the revolution, insisted the "Art into Street" and the "Art in Industry" with its abstract and geometric design. Russian Constructivism effected paintings of mid 1920's, as well as Industrial design and costume design. This operated remarkable changes in Russian form of costume and textile area. An unusual situation like revolution had provided the social justification to develop a new costume design not for the special class of people, but for the general public. In this atmosphere, the plan of clothing mass production began to progress. Although the Russian Constructivism costume of arts shows the similarity in the trend of fashion and the physical forms of those days, its fundamental idea in manufacturing costumes was 'to create costumes to be possible to mass-produce and to be wearable to anyone regardless of the social class'. Therefore, Constructivism costume of arts pursued dynamism and geometric form through non-objective design that has broken away from the handcrafted and traditional standards of the past. These distinct characteristics served as a momentum to seek costume design based on productivity and functionality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
• /
• v.4 no.2 s.8
• /
• pp.65-73
• /
• 2006

Lots of audience turn their eyes upon musical to satisfy various cultural desire. It is popular culture that was watched in culture contents industry. The stage costume which turn audience's eyes in musical the most is the sight art of stage to express visually actor(actress)'s personality, mental state, administrative position, age and the distinction of sex. This study researches designed stage costume which was based on time backgrounds and historical facts of reinvented clothes and its ornaments in Egypt by 'Sonia Rykiel' through musical, 'ten commandments' with special times. We collected home and abroad documentary records, Internet data. Moreover we viewed performance to analyze stage costume and brochure photograph data to study. In consequence the stage costume of musical 'ten commandments' found its way out of traditional clothes and its ornaments largely. We can recognize the stage costume as the most important part in drama by explaining the content on drama as costume through reinvented shape with modern sense and by taking charge of the principal part to lead atmosphere. In addition, thanks to the creative work of designer for stage costume, we can realize important intermediation to make higher artistic value of musical.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.1 no.1
• /
• pp.17-34
• /
• 1999

Because the United States of America has a short history, they don‘t have a special traditional culture or costumes. Besides, America is a multi-people country, they couldn’t have a consistent culture or a traditional costumes. But even they have a short history, they are trying to make a new culture. America is searching for a representative culture, which are like festival costumes, regional costumes and costumes that are form the group of people, in there country and making it into their a convention culture. This thesis is about the costumes of the U.S.A.'s famous festivals, traditional and festival costumes that are differ from every other states and the traditional costume that they are making it righ

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.27 no.11
• /
• pp.1330-1337
• /
• 2003

According to the way of expression and the ritual procedure, there is a difference in the costume between Jinoggigut in Seoul and Sitggimgut, hereditary dance in the southern part of Joella province. Even though they share the same story, which is to soothe the spirit of the deceased and to listen to the grudge of the remained, the two shaman rituals are slightly different in their costumes. And the characteristics of the costume in Seoul Jinoggigut, and Jindo Sitggimgut are as follows; First, both in Seoul Jinoggigut, a spiritual dance and Jindo Sitggimgut, a hereditary dance, the universal roles of shaman costume, which are generally shown in "gut", are found-build a sacred environment, prepare for the experience of the spiritual world, listen to the grudge of the deceased and wish for God's bless. Second, the shaman costume has a special role to express specific and complex symbols-representing God on one hand, symbolizing the dead on the other. Third, unique symbols are found in the costume of Mangjachoendogut with the formality of the ritual procedure.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.9 no.6
• /
• pp.141-159
• /
• 2005

Targeting a film that is the medium of having powerful influence upon the masses, the present study examined about a role and characteristics in the movie costume, and a role of costume designers, which are shown in process of being changed the film costume. There are many designers who were in charge of the film costume, but the present study examined centering on designers who participated aiming to create the image of a character from the stage of manufacturing a movie. It presented and analyzed visual materials by dividing four genres such as a historical drama movie, a horror movie, a fantasy movie, and a modern-play movie, and by selecting a typical work. A Historical drama movie needs to be investigated costume by the historical background in a movie, but inside it was shown clothes that were elaborately reproduced and newly created. A horror movie plays a role of medium that reflects the human society and the internal mentality of a human being along with the attribute of entertainment. As a genre that requires much costume, make-up and special effect aiming at dramatic effect, a role of film costume possesses great weight. As a fantasy movie is a field based on 'fiction' of a writer who creates a work, it is a field that requires creativity of a costume designer most. As a modern-play movie is what reproduces reality, it best reflects the phases of that time, and is the field that is influenced by costume or fashion trend. Costume needs to be designed in a bid to allow spectators to be inspired the wholly united and harmonious mood with leading a story of a movie, and the individual image.