• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.441-460
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• 2002

Funeral culture, which came to being along with the death of human beings, has developed through many changes in the background, culture, religion and custome of the times, having variant cultures depending on each nation or era. This study is designed to historically and systematically classify funeral rituals and costumes which have constantly changed in a special funeral culture from ancient times to modern times so as to investigate the features of each age. The researcher worked on Western funeral cultures, focusing on Egypt and Rome of ancient times, Creek times, the Middle Ages, recent and modern times ages, referring to literature, precedent studies, domestic and international technical books, pictures and drawings in relation to death and funeral services. Western funeral rituals were designed for offering condolence to the dead, but also used to show off the status of the mourners and the position of the dead persons. The mourning dress were utilized to indicate mourning in accordance with the colors, materials and the ways of wearing them, serving as a vehicle for showing off one's own status.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.182-198
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to analyze the previous make-up studies. A number of publications and journals were reviewed and analyzed carefully. The results of review and analysis were as follows: There were many different subjects in make-up studies and They can be divided into ten types : cosmetics purchase behavior, change of make-up culture and comparison, make-up trend by era, cosmetics industry's standing of today and strategy, art trend in make-up, brand preference of cosmetics, make up attitude, recognition about imported cosmetics and purchase behavior, color preference of cosmetics, the relationship between self-concept and make-up. In general, the cosmetic purchase behavior studies are conducted most actively. According to result that analyze existent study, special duality of cosmetics purchase action appears very variously according to standard of classification of study target and study target. But, study target and method of study are not various, and purchase behavior study collected with make-un and clothes is yew lacking. Therefore, in this study, wished to discover problem of virtue study because analyzes studies about previous make-up and present forward study direction.

• Journal of Korean Home Economics Education Association
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.1-17
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• 1997

This study was conducted to obtain basic materials to improve the teaching method of Home Economics by theoretically looking into the supplementary teaching materials or implements usable in teaching Costume History area. And based on these data, the types and the applications of the supplementary teaching materials or implements highschool owned were examined. The subjects of this study were 111 Home Economics and Housework curriculum highschool teachers who give a lecture in the country by using self-administered questionnaires. SAS program was used to calculate frequency, percentage, average, standard deviation, and $\chi$(sup)2-test analysis. The results of the study were as follows； 1. Most of the highschool teachers used the school expenses for experiments in preparing the supplementary teaching materials or implements. 2. Of the supplementary teaching materials and implements concerning Costume History, visual implements such as slides and pictures were the mostly owned. CD and audio implements as cassette-tapes were not used. 3. Most of the teachers recognized the importance of the audio-visual teaching materials and implements concerning Costume History. 4. Among the audio-visual materials and implements concerning Costume History by which can be made by school teachers of Home Economics and Housework curriculum, the mostly used one was ‘cutting pictorials from magazines and newspapers’, and the next were ‘orbital materials’, and ‘copy the pictorials’, and the least was ‘recording from the radio’. 5. Most of the annual expenses assigned to the department of Home Economics was used in cooking practice, and the least of the expenses was assigned in buying audio-visual teaching materials and implements. 6. Time assigned to the area of Home Economics was for the most part one or two hours per week, and among this, time assigned to the history of western costume and the history ok korean costume was for the most part five to eight hours. 7. The areas that the highschool teachers felt difficulties mostly during clothing and textiles curriculum were ‘textiles’and the next were ‘knitting’, ‘western costume history’, and ‘korean clothing construction’. 8. The difficulties the highschool teachers faced while teaching Costume History were mostly that ‘the pictorials in the text is not fully explainable’, the next were ‘most of the supplementary teaching materials or implements are not owned’, ‘have to explain very much in a short time’, and ‘the lectural explanation is insufficient’. 9. The solution for the difficulties that the highschool teachers faced while teaching Costume History was mostly ‘the information, on which audio-visual materials and implements are distributed in the market, should be easy to obtain’, the next opinions were ‘the school should provide enough experiment and practice expenses to buy audio-visual materials and implements’, and ‘education facilities of the Home Economics Department should be the main aspects in improving the teaching methods and should give special lectures about it’.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.39
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• pp.167-179
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• 1998

The objective of this study is to examine the costumes of the period covered in the writings of Shilhak (practical science) scholars and to research the history of costumes and their characteristics by examining how they are worn in genre paintings which are said to describe the actual life of the period. This should be studied in order to correctly establish the history of costumes. To begin with, through the writings of the representative Shilhak scholars who are thought to have affected the changes in ordinary costumes for woman, this study examined how ordinary woman of the period looked in their costumes and how they regarded various costumes they had. Then, how their viewpoints of costumes influenced ordinary costumes was investigated. Not only relics, but what was commonly worn, as they appeared in the genre paintings that contain information about daily living of that period, were researched chronologically. The results of this study showed that the change in ordinary costumes for woman in the late Chosun period was affected by Shilhak scholars who had ideologies of Shilsakusi (use of positive methods in studying), Yiyonghusaeng (the promotion of commerce and industry and the development of techonologies), and Ky ngsech'iyong (pursuit of stability in a rural economy). Moreover, after those changes there were many more changes. However, the criticism of costumes of that time and the will of revolution affected some time, costumes changed directly. The forms of the costumes had been changed in a variety of ways following the tendencies of the times, but the origin of today's hanbok (Korean traditional dress) had already been fixed in the late Choson period. Yet, today's hanbok are for special occasions, not worn as ordinary clothing. Thus, there are several reasons why the hanbok is not suitable for daily life. One of the reasons is that Korean could not cope with the western costumes indepen-dently imported during Japanese occupation in the last period of the Choson Dynasty and con-tinuing the Japanese Colony. Thus, only a part of the ordinary costume of the late Choson period has remained until now.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.2 s.111
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• pp.11-28
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• 2007

Sang-uiwon was the bureau of Royal attire in Chosun Dynasty. It had been established in King TAEJO, Chosun Dynasty. The 597 artisans, sorted by 68 types were assigned to Sang-uiwon. The ministry of Taxation[Hojo] and Tribute bureau[Seonhvecheong] had charged of finances of Sang-uiwon. According to the Regular rule of Sang-uiwon, there were five types for finances. The principal income tax[Won Gong] was the assignments of national finance to Sang-uiwon. The materials for the Royal informal dress were offered by usual tributes. The kinds of usual tributes were the tribute for the Royal families' birthday, holidays such as New Year's Day, the fifth day of the fifth lunar month, the harvest festival[Chuseok], and the winter solstice, the tributes for spring and fall, every first day and fifteenth day of the month, an annual tribute, an annual present, and an annual laudatory goods which were the King's presents to His Majesty's lieges. With usual tributes from Sang-uiwon, the Royal informal dress was made by the dressmakers and embroiderers who were Court ladies. The Royal informal dress for the King and the Crown Prince was trousers[Ba JI], shirts[Sam A], jackets[Gua Du], men's gowns[Chul lick], and long vests[Due Grae]. The Royal informal dress for the Queen and the Crown Princess was loose drawers[Dan Ni Ui], long skirts[Chi Ma], shirts[Sam A] and jarkets[Go Ui]. When there were the king's proceeding outside the palace, royal parties, cases of tributes to Chinese, special tributes were offered according to the procedures, like as making letters about the affairs, consulting, and permission. The tributes were also offered by a royal ordinance. According to the kinds of Royal event, the officers of Sang-uiwon procured the Royal costume which were conformed to the Royal etiquette.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.3
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• pp.407-419
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• 2017

Based on clothing prohibition modelling characteristics, this paper studies historical costumes through the traditional Chinese historical dramas of the 'Kang-Qian' heyday during the 'Qing Dynasty'; represents the research object as a representative Chinese historical drama. This paper systematically analyzed the utilization and reflection of royal women clothing prohibition. The results of the study are as follows. The royal women clothing prohibition of this drama shows three aspects of characteristics found in traditional Chinese costume modeling. First, some special colors that integrated ancient and modern styles were mainly used in this drama such as champagne color, wine color, and macaron color. Second, it mainly utilized the modelling of modern artificial pigments and floral patterns that are different from Chinese traditional female costumes of the 'Qing Dynasty'. Third, stage costumes for this drama are focused more on using a personality method to reflect the beauty of each actress by the application of individual elements. This study analyzed and studied the clothing prohibition of female costume from to show the traditional Chinese costume prohibition in a Chinese historical drama as well as reveal a few aspects of traditional female costume characteristics in the 'Kang-Qian' heyday during the 'Qing Dynasty'. This study examined traditional female costumes characteristics in modern historical dramas based on different figures and dynasties as well as discussed the factors at a deeper level and from varied aspects.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.32
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• pp.225-242
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• 1997

This study is historical research on the relationship between the Changes of the Form of costume and the recognition of the beauty of the body from prehistorical period to Ch'ing Dynasty in Chinese female costume. In figure painting a significant point was to describe the spirit of the figure so Chinese painters were less interested in ideal body pro-portion or body shape than Westerns. But idealized beauty of the female body existed and changed keeping abreast with the form of costume in each period. In the prehistorical period Wemen fasten waist belt so enabled to distinguish upper part of the body from lower one. "Locust-forehead moth-eyebrows(蝗首蛾毛)" recorded in "the Book of odes(詩經)" was the canon of beaty and Wemen tried to make their forehead broad and square from Zhou Dynasty to the Wei Jin periods. From the age of Civil War to han Dynasty Slender waist was loved so waist was tightly fastened and hemline became broader. in the course of that time Plump body in big cloth with broad sleeve emerged but that was less significant than Tang Dynasty. During Wei Jin and the Southern/Northern Dynasty undergo disruption and division they admired Taoist images. Loose fitting style with handkerchief hemline and broad sash belt was prevailed while miserable life was reflected gaunt face and lean body. Suk Dynasty also preferred a slim and long body silhouette. The style was presented extremely high waist line long and narrow sleeve slim and long skirt which expressed dynamic and straight image. The culture of Tang Dynasty was open and diverse and that character enabled blod decolletate revealing body line by tight fitting and special make-up-Social background of uion and stabilization made female body extremely plump full face. full breast and hips with most erotic image. The period of Kaiyuan Tianbao fashioned mannish disguise presented androgynous image. Five Dynasty and Song Dynasty restored standard body type so upper garments concealed neck and bust high waist line lowered which represented refined and simple outfit. But another eroticism emerged as foot-binding in Song Dynasty. For the sake of covering up deformed top of the feet and ankle gaiters and arrow shaped shoes were devised. During Ming Ch'ing Dynasties body shape became more slim weak and young causing to escort instinct that reflects 'Lust' or 'Mundanity'.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.7
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• pp.97-111
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• 2000

The purpose of this study were to segment the hair care cosmetics market according to the benefits sought, to categorize the information sources on the hair care cosmetics, and to characterize the profiles of the segmentized groups of university students. Self-administered questionnaires were distributed to 457 university students in Chonbuk province from Jul. 10 to Jul. 21, 1999. Frequencies and percentages were calculated, and factor analysis, cluster analysis, one-way ANOVA, and $\chi$$^2$-test were used. The results were: 1. University student's benefit variables on hair care cosmetics were classified into special function, fashion, practicality, brand, fragrance, styling, nutritional reinforcement, and economy. And they were segmentized into the feeling pursuit, the multi-benefit pursuit, the practicality pursuit, the benefit unconscious, and the function pursuit. The information sources were classified into marketer-dominated sources, neutral sources and consumer -dominated sources. 2. The feeling pursuit strongly sought for fashion, brand and fragrance pursuit, but considered economy less, chiefly used the marketer-dominated and neutral information sources, and showed much interests in hair care cosmetics, and were consisted of women dominantly. The multi-benefits pursuit sought for various kinds of benefits from hair care cosmetics, depended heavily on various kinds of information sources, were well aware of their hair types and instructions on the hair care cosmetics label, and were consisted of women dominantly. The practicality pursuit highly sought for practicality, but low on the fashion, were not aware of their hair style, haler care, hair health status and hair type, and almost half of them are men. The benefit unconscious showed low concern about, all kinds of benefits and hair care cosmetics, and were consisted of more men than women. The function pursuit highly sought for special function and nutritional reinforcement, mainly depended on the consumer-dominated sources. and showed low concern about their hair style and hair care.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.24
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• pp.143-155
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• 1995

Unlike pure art such as painting and sculpture, dressmaking , a field of special plastic art, is characterized by its physical and functional nature. Having an inseparable relation with form, it is a field of art expressiion the human innersense of beauty in correlation with other various fields of art. In this respect, I think it should be necessary for us to study the forms of art from the past in order to study the forms of art from the past in order to study the correlations and mutual influencies between forms of pure art and dressmaking and to understand modern dressmaking from the standpoint of art. In this context, this study is an attempt to analze how the form and characteristics of OP ART , which represents the trends of the 1960's is embodied in modern dresses. The results are as follows : Fist , the expression of OP ART in dresses have visual effects harmonizing with bodily movements and , also, expanded the range and dynamics of expression which resulted from the introduction of visual phenomena in a fresh new sense by not limiting itself to the suggestion of patterns of OP ART. Second, OP ART paintings expressed the mobility and rhythimicity of a body in a limited space in a two-dimensional plane way of expression . When a dress is worn, however, it expands such mobility and rhythmicity in a cubic , three-dimensional way, maximizing the effects of , and boldly expression, OP ART, it can also create a new silhuette and ability of formation by seeking an open expression of OP ART rather than an expression of OP ART it self , due to the infinite possibility and unpredictability by the dynamics of movements and the elements principle of designs. Third , by applying the patterns of OP ART to dresses, we can obtain special visual effects of design, cover up the body's weak points, and create a desired three -dimensional sense by highlighting the beauty of the body's curved lines. Although modern dresses and OP ART are different genres of art, both have something in common in their pusuits. Since there is a infinite possibility in OP ART, there should be continuous attempts to combine dresses and art satisfying the sense of the times, which will lead dressmaking to a higher-dimensional dressmaking plastic art.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.4
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• pp.97-111
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• 2004

To study the clothing names has been one of the research subjects in the history of clothing since the name could be the basic tool to understand the clothing. In the past, the name of clothing were used in Chinese character which is hieroglyphic. Each character of Chinese has special meaning. They had been changed into Korean after Korean characters were invented. During the period when they were changed into Korean, some of them retained the original meaning while others widened the original meaning. Some of them even translated into totally different meaning. Accordingly, it could be a clue to survey the changing process of Chinese names into Korean by analysing the vocabulary in the books published in Choseon dynasty. In this study, the first step is to survey the children's Chinese vocabulary learning material, Hunmongahoe(1527), Sinzeungliuhap(1576) and Ahackpyun(1804). These books were widely used from 16 to 19 centuries. It has been surveyed how the meaning of clothes names has changed and the special features of changed names. The names appeared in these Chinese vocabulary learning books included headgear, footwear, dress, part names of dress, ornaments, color and names of textile. The followings are observed by studying the names appeared in more than two books above： 1. The same Chinese character were translated differently. 2. Recently the meaning of Chinese character has been reduced or changed into new Chinese character. 3. Some of them retained the same meaning but used different character. It has been observed that some clothing names retained the original meaning but others changed the meaning, or translated into different names. It shows that the appropriate meaning of names should be properly selected when we study the history of clothing.