• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.69-84
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• 2020

Natural shoreline repeats its re-treatment and advance in response to the endlessly varying sea-conditions, and once severely eroded under stormy weather conditions, natural beaches are gradually recovered via a boundary layer streaming when swells are prevailing after storms cease. Our understanding of the boundary layer streaming over surf-zone often falls short despite its great engineering value, and here it should be noted that the most sediments available along the shore are supplied over the surf-zone. In this rationale, numerical simulation was implemented to investigate the hydraulic characteristics of boundary layer streaming over the surf zone in this study. In doing so, comprehensive numerical models made of Spatially filtered Navier-Stokes Eq., LES (Large Eddy Simulation), Dynamic Smagorinsky turbulence closure were used, and the effects of turbulence closure such as Dynamic Smagorinsky in LES and k-ε on the numerically simulated flow field were also investigated. Numerical results show that due to the intrinsic limits of k-ε turbulence model, numerically simulated flow velocity near the bottom based on k-ε model and wall function are over-predicted than the one using Dynamic Smagorinsky in LES. It is also shown that flow velocities near the bottom are faster than the one above the bottom which are relatively free from the presence of the bottom, complying the typical boundary layer streaming by Longuet-Higgins (1957), the spatial scope where boundary layer streaming are occurring is extended well into the surf zone as incoming waves are getting longer. These tendencies are plausible considering that it is the bottom friction that triggers a boundary layer streaming, and longer waves start to feel the bottom much faster than shorter waves.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.106-121
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• 2020

In order to make harbor outskirt facilities robust using the reliability-based design, probabilistic models of wave heights at varying stage of shoaling process optimized for Korean sea waves are prerequisite. In this rationale, we numerically simulate the nonlinear shoaling process of random waves over the beach with a sandbar at its foreshore. In doing so, comprehensive numerical models made of spatially filtered Navier-Stokes Eq., LES [Large Eddy Simulation], dynamic Smagorinsky turbulence closure were used. Considering the characteristics of swells observed at the east coast of Korean Peninsula, random waves were simulated using JONSWAP wave spectrum of various peak enhancement coefficients and random phase method. The coefficients of probabilistic models proposed in this study are estimated from the results of frequency analysis of wave crests and its associated trough detected by Wave by Wave Analysis of the time series of numerically simulated free surface displacements based on the threshold crossing method. Numerical results show that Modified Glukhovskiy wave height distribution, the most referred probabilistic models at finite water depth in the literature, over-predicts the occurring probability of relatively large and small wave heights, and under predicts the occurrence rate of waves of moderate heights. On the other hand, probabilistic models developed in this study show vary encouraging agreements. In addition, the discrepancy of the Modified Glukhovskiy distribution from the measured one are most visible over the surf zone, and as a result, the Modified Glukhovskiy distribution should be applied with caution for the reliability-based design of harbor outskirt facilities deployed near the surf-zone.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.193-204
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• 2011

To develop more robust oil boom which is vulnerable to various failure mode under severe weather condition, highly accurate wave model is developed using Spatially filtered Navier-Stokes Eq., LDS (Lagrangian Dynamic Smagorinsky model) for residual stresses, SPH (Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics). To clarify the hydraulic characteristics of floating type oil boom, we numerically simulate the behavior of oil spill around oil boom under very energetic progressive waves. At the first stage, we firmly anchored the oil boom, and then, allowed the excursion of the oil boom. It turns out that oil boom with skirt of enough length (longer than 30% of depth) effectively confines the oil spill even against very energetic waves. We can also observe obliquely descending vertical eddies between y = 1~2 m as horizontal vortices shedding at the interface of oil spill and water are diffused toward the bottom, which is believed to be the birth, growing and break-down of Kelvin-Helmholz wave.