• Title/Summary/Keyword: soviet costume

Search Result 3, Processing Time 0.016 seconds

The Principles of Clothing Design and the Way of Design Approach in Lamanova (라마노바의 의상디자인 이론과 접근 방식)

  • Lee, Keum Hee
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
    • /
    • v.14 no.1
    • /
    • pp.108-127
    • /
    • 2006
  • The purpose of this study is to examine the principles of clothing design and the way of design approach in Lamanova. She caused a revolution in the art of dress and created the foundation for costume design theory. She Addressed Art in everyday life to self-taught dressmakers. The distinguishing feature of the design is simplicity and functionality. In an article "The Russian Style", Lamanova raised the question of the new Soviet costume and traditional costume. In "On Contemporary Costume" she classified the new forms of clothes into everyday and holiday attire, showed the principles of costume, and analyzed in detail the necessity of constructing a costume to suit the individual figure. In "On the Rationality of Costume", she found a basis theory for clothing design which is for whom, from what, and for what purpose. Lamanova's theory was made public in full in 1928 and was presented at the exhibition of Handmade Textiles and Embroidery in Women's Contemporary Costume. The main contents are the costume's purpose, it's material, the figure of its wearer, and its form. She argued that the new costume could be in line with the new life and her theory could be the creed of clothing designers. The principles of Lamanova's theory can still be applied today, not only in Russian traditional and contemporary costume, but in contemporary world fashion.

  • PDF

A Study on Soviet Constructive Fashion in 1920s (1920년대 소비에트 구성주의 패션에 관한 연구)

  • 조윤경;금기숙
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
    • /
    • v.36
    • /
    • pp.183-203
    • /
    • 1998
  • The wave of Avant-garde swept away all in the unique social background so called 'October Revolution' and the early 1900 Russian society which was able to absorb and accept anything. The Russian avant-garde has been affected by the Cubism and the Futurism those had peculiarly appeared in the early twentieth century, spreaded out to three spheres: the Suprematism, the Rayonism and the Constructivism. The Russian Constructivism has appeared in this background, concretely and ideally ex-pressed the ideology of the revolution into the artistic form and made an huge influence to the whole Russian society. The Constructivist like Tatlin, naum Gabo, Pevaner, Rodchenko, Stepanova, Popova and Exter gave great effect on the Soviet Constructive fashion design in 1920's after the Revolution. The Soviet costume in 1920s hold in common the characteristicss of the Constructive graphic as it is, geometrical and abstractive form, energetic and motility. In fashion design, these graphic qualities have been showed as the application of geometrical form and architectural image, physical distortion and transformation. And in textile design, the simple, dynamical presentation has been appeared. We can classify the Soviet costume at this time into three occasions. The first term is from late 1910 th mid 1920, and it is altered from folk costume design to modern one. With Lamanova as the first on the list, using the folk mitif, the Constructive expression of simple form has been gradually revealed in design. Designers like Makarova, Pribylskaia and Mukhina produced the plane, simple chemise style with the decoration of the Russian traditional motif. From early to late 1920 is the second term, and it is at the pick of the most active processing of the Constructive design. Not only at the costume in daily life but also at the theatrical costume and textile, the con-structive design has been represented all avail-able fields. Many Constructivists including Stepanova, Popova, Exter and Rodchenko took part in the textile design and costume design so as to evlvo their aesthetic concept. The third term is from late 1920 to early 1930. The socialistic realism has dominated over the whole culture and art, the revolutionary dynamic motif has been presented also in textile design. The formative features of Soviet Constructive fashion design are; silhouette, from, motif, color and fabric. The first, the silhouette : a straight rectangular silhouetted has been expressed through the whole period and a volumed one with distorted human body shape has introduced in the theatrical costume design. The second, the form: many lengthened rectangular forms have been made at beginnings, but to the middle period, geometrical, architectural forms have been more showed and there are energy and movement in design. At the last period, only a partial feature-division has been seen. The third, the motif; no pattern or ethnic motif has been partly used at beginnings, a figure like circle, tri-angle has gradually appeared in textile design. At latter period, a real-existent motif like an airplane has been represented with graphing and simplicity. The fourth, the color ; because of insufficient dyeing, neutral color like black or grey color has been mainly covered, but after middle term, a primary color or pastel tone has been seen, contrast of the fabric; without much development of textile industry after the Revolution, thick and durable fabrics have been the main stream, but as time had going to the last period, fabrics such as linen, cotton, velvet and silk have been varously choesn. At the theatrical costume, new materials like plastics and metals that were able to accentuate the form. The pursuit of popularity, simplicity and functionalism that the basic concept of Constructive fashion is one of the "beauty" which has been searching in modern fashion. And now we can appreciate how innovative and epochal this Soviet Constructive fashion movement was.ement was.

  • PDF

A Study on Modern Military Uniform Design (현대 군복 디자인에 대한 연구 -전쟁양상과 군복 디자인의 관계를 중심으로-)

  • Kwon, Sang-Hee;Ha, Ji-Soo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
    • /
    • v.56 no.9 s.109
    • /
    • pp.143-156
    • /
    • 2006
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze changes in military uniform design according to the type of war in history and to suggest factors to be considered when designing military uniforms. Military uniform in this study has been limited to uniforms of land active soldiers and not only includes battle dress but also bombproof helmets, combat boots and webbing systems. Western military uniform was investigated starting from World War I focusing on the United States, United Kingdom, Germany and the Soviet Union, and Korean military uniform was analyzed starting from the Korean Day of Independence. Historical research, case studies and in-depth interviews were included in the study. World War I was a trench war. Khaki colors began to be used in battle dress, and steel helmets and gas masks were invented. World War II was a full-stale war. Many kinds of uniform were designed with various environments and roles of soldiers in mind, and camouflage was adopted in military uniform. Modern wars were wars of technique. Strong protectors were invented and diverse camouflages were adopted as rifles became increasingly accurate and biochemical weapons started to be used. Korea referred largely to the uniforms of the United States because it lacked both information on war and the financial power to invest in development of military uniforms. Finally, this study presents 5 factors to be considered when designing military uniforms: protection, camouflage, mobile and utility convenience, compatibility and symbolism. Wars of the future are predicted to be information wars utilizing realtime information collected through computers. Therefore new military uniforms with computers, communication devices and strong protective capacities need to be developed. This study aims to provide a theoretical basis for designing military uniforms of the future.