• 대한원격탐사학회:학술대회논문집
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• 대한원격탐사학회 2006년도 Proceedings of ISRS 2006 PORSEC Volume II
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• pp.938-941
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• 2006

Satellite synthetic aperture radar (SAR) images from 1995 to 2001 and field measurements of sea surface wind, sea state, and vertical stratification are used for statistical analyses of internal wave (IW) occurrence and SAR imaging conditions in the northern South China Sea (NSCS). Latitudinal distribution of IW packets shows that 22% of IW packets distributed in the east of $118^{\circ}E$ and 78% of IW packets in the west of $118^{\circ}E$. The yearly distribution of IW occurrence frequencies reveals an interannual variability. The monthly SAR-observed IW occurrence frequencies show that the high frequencies are distributed from April to July and reach a peak in June. The low occurrence frequencies are distributed in winter from December to February of next year. These statistical features are explained by solitary wave dynamics.

• 한국수자원학회논문집
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• 제50권9호
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• pp.647-652
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• 2017

우리나라 해안지역에는 많은 섬들이 위치하고 있어 대규모 지진해일이 발생하였을 때 섬과 지진해일의 상호작용으로 예기치 않은 지진해일 피해가 우려된다. 2011년 발생한 동일본 지진해일의 경우 제주도를 비롯한 남해안 섬들에 영향을 미쳤다. 본 연구에서는 천수이론에 근거한 수치모형을 이용하여 섬 중앙에 대하여 비대칭으로 입사하는 고립파의 처오름높이에 관하여 연구한다. 연구에서 얻은 결과는 지진해일의 급습에 대비한 방재대책을 수립하는데 사용될 수 있을 것이다.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제31권5호
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• pp.346-351
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• 2017

The aim of this paper is to apply the Crowhurst-Zhenquan scheme to one-dimensional Madsen-Sørensen extended Boussinesq equations. In order to verify the application of the aforementioned scheme, the propagation of solitary waves was simulated for two different cases of submarine topography; e.g., a plane beach and submerged breakwater. The simulated results are compared to the results of recent studies and show favorable agreement. The behavior of progressive waves is also investigated.

• 한국해안·해양공학회논문집
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• 제27권4호
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• pp.202-216
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• 2015

가용한 토지의 부족으로 현재 우리나라 인공운하에서 흔히 관측되는 협수로에서는 고립파 형태의 항주파가 생성되는 것으로 추정된다. 본고에서는 이러한 가설을 확인하기 위해 수치모의를 수행하였다. 수치모의는 삼차원 Navier Stokes 식과 VOF에 기초하여 수행되었으며, 수치모형의 검증은 현재 우리에게 가용한 운하 설계기준 중 가장 빈번히 언급되는 PIANC (1987) 설계안과 본고에서 유도된 해석해에 기초하여 수행되었다. 모의결과, 고립파형태의 항주파가 관측되었으며, 하안 인근에서 계측된 선수파 파고의 경우 수치모의 결과는 PIANC (1987) 설계안을 상회하였으며 상당히 오랜 기간 (이십초 내외) 지속되었다. 선미파의 경우는 하회하였다. 이러한 결과는 광역수로에서 관측되는 항주파의 일반적인 특성과는 상이한 것으로 좁은 수로 폭이 항주파 특성에 영향을 미치는 것으로 판단된다. 또한 선박의 협수로 통과시 선박을 중심으로 양안으로 진행되는 흐름과, 반사로 인해 양안에서 선박으로 진행되는 흐름이 교대로 출현하였으며 이 때 최대 0.90 m/s의 유속이 전 수심대역에서 비교적 균일하게 유지되어, 상당한 쇄굴이 진행될 수 있다고 판단된다.

• Structural Engineering and Mechanics
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• 제53권3호
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• pp.393-410
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• 2015

Two dimensional numerical models and physical models have been developed to study the highly nonlinear interactions between waves and breakwaters, but several of these models consider the effects of the structural dynamic responses and the shape of the breakwater axis on the wave pressures. In this study, a multi-material Arbitrary Lagrangian Eulerian (ALE) method is developed to simulate the nonlinear interactions between nonlinear waves and elastic seawalls on a coastal rubble mound breakwater, and is validated experimentally. In the experiment, a solitary wave is generated and used with a physical breakwater model. The wave impact is validated computationally using a breakwater - flume coupling model that replicates the physical model. The computational results, including those for the wave pressure and the water-on-deck, are in good agreement with the experimental results. A local breakwater model is used to discuss the effects of the structural dynamic response and different design parameters of the breakwater on wave loads, together with pressure distribution up the seawall. A large-scale breakwater model is used to numerically study the large-scale wave impact problem and the horizontal distribution of the wave pressures on the seawalls.

• 한국광학회지
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• 제13권5호
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• pp.400-407
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• 2002

2차원 공간 고립파는 비선형 굴절률이 빛의 세기에 따라 일정한 값에 수렴하는 포화 매질에서 안정적으로 전파될 수 있다. 그러나 빛의 세기가 크지 않은 경우, 5차 비선형 굴절률이 음수인 매질은 포화 매질의 특성을 가지므로 2차원 공간 고립파가 전파될 수 있다. 2차원 비선형 슈뢰딩거 방정식의 전산 시늉을 통하여 빛의 세기가 크지 않은 경우 가우시안 빛살이 5차 비선형 매질을 전파하는 과정을 조사하였다. 그 결과 자체 포획 일률로 입사시킬 때 가장 안정적으로 2차원 공간 고립파가 전파한다는 것을 알 수 있었다. 또한 위상차가 180$^{\circ}$인 두 공간 고립파를 0.05$^{\circ}$의 충돌각으로 충돌시키면서 한 쪽 고립파의 입사 일률을 조절한다면 출력단에서 두 공간 고립파의 완전 광 스위칭이 가능함을 확인하였다.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제33권1호
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• pp.76-84
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• 2019

For decades, solitary waves have commonly been used to simulate tsunami conditions in numerical studies. However, the main component of a tsunami waveform acts at completely different spatial and temporal distributions than a solitary waveform. Thus, this study applied a 2-D numerical wave tank that included a non-reflected tsunami generation system based on Navier-Stokes equations (LES-WASS-2D) to directly simulate the run-up of a tsunami-like solitary wave on a slope. First, the waveform and velocity due to the virtual depth factor were applied to the numerical wave tank to generate a tsunami, which made it possible to generate the wide waveform of a tsunami, which was not reproduced with the existing solitary wave approximation theory. Then, to validate the applied numerical model, the validity and effectiveness of the numerical wave tank were verified by comparing the results with the results of a laboratory experiment on a tsunami run-up on a smooth impermeable 1:19.85 slope. Using the numerical results, the run-up characteristics due to a tsunami-like solitary wave on an impermeable slope were also discussed in relation to the volume ratio. The maximum run-up heights increased with the ratio of the tsunami waveform. Therefore, the tsunami run-up is highly likely to be underestimated compared to a real tsunami if the solitary wave of the approximation theory is applied in a tsunami simulation in a coastal region.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• 제1권1호
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• pp.20-28
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• 2009

In thus paper we validate a numerical model for wave-structure interaction by comparing numerical results with laboratory data. The numerical model is based on the Navier-Stokes (N-S) equations for an incompressible fluid. The N-S equations are solved by a two-step projection finite volume scheme and the free surface displacements are tracked by the volume of fluid (VOF) method The numerical model is used to simulate solitary waves and their interaction with a group of slender vertical piles. Numerical results are compared with the laboratory data and very good agreement is observed for the time history of free surface displacement, fluid particle velocity and wave force. The agreement for dynamic pressure on the cylinder is less satisfactory, which is primarily caused by instrument errors.

• 한국안전학회지
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• 제31권2호
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• pp.70-75
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• 2016

Recently, coastal erosion has been widely in progress and the erosion level becomes also serious in the world wide, espeically in East Sea in Korea. Since it would threaten the life, economics and security risk, it is necessary to much comprehend the reason why coastal erosion has occurred according to the geographical characteristics. Meanwhile, analysis about hydrodynamics of the solitary wave such as tunami in swash zone is needed for the best management practice of coastal erosion. Solitary wave is nonlinear wave and can be reproduced in the laboratoy scale by openning suddenly a sluice gate with water head difference, of which methodology was found in the literature, since it could be simply determined by a significant wave height. Thus, in this sutdy the generation of solitary wave was experimentalized using the sluice gate. Experimental conditions were classified by angles of a beach slope, a water level in a beach slope and a difference of water level between in a headtank and a channel bed. Two kinds of dimensionless analyses based from experimental results in this study were presented; the first analysis indicates nondimensionalization between the wave height and the water level in a beach slope in order to investigate characteristics of solitary wave approaching the beach. The second shows the other nondimensionalization between dynamic pressure and static pressure on a beach slope to investigate the relationship between wave breaking and wave pressure. Under the same conditions as laboratory experiments, the numerical results computed with a SWAN model embedded in FLOW 3D were compared in terms of wave height, and pressure on the beach slope, which shows good agreement with each other. Overall results from this study could provide fundamental hydraulic data for the reliabile verification of numerical simulation results about coastal erosion in swash zone caused by solitary waves.

• Journal of Theoretical and Applied Mechanics
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• 제1권1호
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• pp.1-27
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• 1995

In this paper a finite element method for free-surface problems is described. the method is based on two different forms of Hamilton's principle. To test the present computational method two specific wave problems are investigated; the dispersion relations and the nonlinear effect for the well-known solitary waves are treated. The convergence test shows that the present scheme is more efficient than other existing methods, e.g. perturbation scheme.